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Why doesn't my plant appear frosty ? Week 10 of flowering

Owl Mirror

Active member
Veteran
If you have a Petco nearby, you can get bricks of coco coir, the company is Zoo Med, and the brand is "Eco Earth". Stuff works great, but you may want to flush it. I'd recommend a mix of 50% coir, 25% compost mixes(chicken and cow manure, mushroom compost, etc.), and 25% peat moss(for moisture retention). Then use 1 tablespoon of dolomite per gallon of soil, 2 tablespoons bone meal, and 1-2 tablespoons of Espoma Flower Tone(bulb tone works well too). If you can't get the last one it's not the end of the world though. I've been using this mix lately and it's stellar. Actually I use a bit more compost than that, but start with little and add more when it comes to fertilizers you're not used to. Then all you have to do is water with dechlorinated water. That's all it takes to become an organic gardener, and all those soil components are things you can mix together yourself.

I still suspect light leak problems. I know good genes shouldn't care, but a lot of genes that are otherwise good have hermie problems with a little light leak. Also, the time of day the light leak occurs is a big deal. If the leak is closer to either sun up or sun down, it's not as bad, but in the very middle, 6 hours into the night cycle, it's by far the most sensitive. Until you can find more light leak tolerant genetics, you will definitely want future growing to be done with perfect darkness during lights off.

Thanks so much for the recipe !
As for hermies, I'm not sure where that comes from as this plant shows no signs of that. And as for light leaks, I can't say for sure because the only light I see from inside is a diffused glow around the door frame. I put 1x.5 strips around the frame to seal up the gap of the door frame so any light is between the crack and the wooden strips. I run my lights during the daylight hours 7a-7p so it is light for a few hours after the lights go out but, I live alone and don't turn lights on in that room at night.

Is this product similar to what you have suggested?
CocoGro Coir - Bale (makes 65-70 liters) Price: $14.50
 

Owl Mirror

Active member
Veteran
OK, I'm feeling a bit dejected today.
I have been browsing the thread "show me your frostiest buds".
Those photo's are incredible, especially the ones showing encrusted seeds ;>}
OK, so I asked a simple question and got a one-word answer.

Does Frostiness mean better potency? ~ YES
On the other hand, I've been told some of the most potent weed is not crust-filled, trich-dripping buds.
Can someone explain this in plain language?

Are all the crusty buds in that thread simply from Indica-dominant strains?
Do Sativa strains also become frosty ?
I'm confused !
 

killa-bud

Active member
Veteran
there's some strains of hemp that have a lot of trichs,its doesn't necessarily indicate potency..

its what's inside the trichome that counts...
 

lordbudly

Active member
Veteran
there's some strains of hemp that have a lot of trichs,its doesn't necessarily indicate potency..

its what's inside the trichome that counts...

exactly, sativas have generally less trichomes but they are more potent, indicas have way more but are less potent, now you may think , why does it matter since they kind of even out? hashish:joint:
 

Owl Mirror

Active member
Veteran
exactly, sativas have generally less trichomes but they are more potent, indicas have way more but are less potent, now you may think , why does it matter since they kind of even out? hashish:joint:

See, this answer goes directly to the heart of my question.

Say I have three landrace strains Two are 12 week Sativa and one is an 8 week Indica.
The Indica might appear frosty while the Sativa appear like green vegetation.
 

Mr. Greengenes

Re-incarnated Senior Member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
It's true that you can't fully judge plants by their looks. Just have to dry, cure and smoke them to really find out. The observation that the most frosty plant doesn't alway turn out the best has been made by many breeders and growers over the years. But, when you see a plant that doesn't show much or any resin well after pistils are developing, I don't care if it's a 'slow flowering sativa', it's probably hay in my book.

I always flower seedlings very small, not only so I can compare many plants, but so that I can find out sooner which plants are worth saving seeds or cuttings from. Seedbatches from commercial sources can contain quite a bit of variation. Sometimes it's just plant shapes that vary, other times it's things like potency and taste, too. It's a shame to spend months vegging a plant to a large size, only to find that it's hay. Flower seedlings sooner, and you can have an army of cuttings of the choice plant in the time it takes to veg one huge reject.
 

Owl Mirror

Active member
Veteran
It's a shame to spend months vegging a plant to a large size, only to find that it's hay.

That is what I'm afraid of in my case.
Thanks for the insight, this is my first plant.
I most likely did something/everything wrong with her.
I have a clone from her, prior to flowering that is growing and looks far different from the mother.
 

magiccannabus

Next Stop: Outer Space!
Veteran
Thanks so much for the recipe !
As for hermies, I'm not sure where that comes from as this plant shows no signs of that. And as for light leaks, I can't say for sure because the only light I see from inside is a diffused glow around the door frame. I put 1x.5 strips around the frame to seal up the gap of the door frame so any light is between the crack and the wooden strips. I run my lights during the daylight hours 7a-7p so it is light for a few hours after the lights go out but, I live alone and don't turn lights on in that room at night.

No problem, I can't rant enough about that soil. Stuff is a delight to work with and coir smells really good. If you can find some Espoma Bio-Tone, and make compost tea with it and other composts mixed together, you'll also see better nutrient uptake.

I know it sucks to have touchy genetics, but I suspect you do. Once I changed from a tiny bit of light spilling in, to total darkness, I immediately saw the plants begin to accelerate their flowering. 2 of them hermied really badly, and 2 of them took forever to finish. Until I fixed the leak I was really not sure they were ever going to reach the late bloom/swell phase.

Is this product similar to what you have suggested?
CocoGro Coir - Bale (makes 65-70 liters) Price: $14.50

That actually is probably a better deal than the pet store coir. I just like being able to walk into a store and use cash to buy my coir. Still at those prices, I might start ordering online....
 

Owl Mirror

Active member
Veteran
No problem, I can't rant enough about that soil. Stuff is a delight to work with and coir smells really good. If you can find some Espoma Bio-Tone, and make compost tea with it and other composts mixed together, you'll also see better nutrient uptake.

I know it sucks to have touchy genetics, but I suspect you do. Once I changed from a tiny bit of light spilling in, to total darkness, I immediately saw the plants begin to accelerate their flowering. 2 of them hermied really badly, and 2 of them took forever to finish. Until I fixed the leak I was really not sure they were ever going to reach the late bloom/swell phase.



That actually is probably a better deal than the pet store coir. I just like being able to walk into a store and use cash to buy my coir. Still at those prices, I might start ordering online....

Thanks !
 

Owl Mirror

Active member
Veteran
I would like to ask, if the proliferation of leaf development were from a Heat problem or small Light leak. Would it help my buds finish and swell if I were to selectively cut them out ?

I guess I'm wondering if their existing is hindering the bud development by shading them.

The clone is about one month behind this plant in flower time and is sparse with leaves yet, filled with popcorn to golf-ball size buds. I'm wondering if I fixed the problems before introducing the clone yet, the original plant got freaky on me?
 

magiccannabus

Next Stop: Outer Space!
Veteran
Never cut off fan leaves! At least that is my policy. They are what feeds the buds. The buds need some light yes, but the big fans should die soon enough. If they don't, you have too much nitrogen or a light leak typically. The heat makes less leaf fingers typically, but that works out well in this case because it is shading less. I'd just let the plant do it's thing, just get your environment dialed in. The number one killer of new plants for new growers is over-mothering them. Usually too much water, too much handling, trimming, adjustment of the medium, etc.. They know how to grow well and want to, they just need a good setup to do it in.
 

Owl Mirror

Active member
Veteran
Never cut off fan leaves! At least that is my policy. They are what feeds the buds. The buds need some light yes, but the big fans should die soon enough. If they don't, you have too much nitrogen or a light leak typically. The heat makes less leaf fingers typically, but that works out well in this case because it is shading less. I'd just let the plant do it's thing, just get your environment dialed in. The number one killer of new plants for new growers is over-mothering them. Usually too much water, too much handling, trimming, adjustment of the medium, etc.. They know how to grow well and want to, they just need a good setup to do it in.

Thanks, will do ;>}
 

Owl Mirror

Active member
Veteran
Today I was advised to harvest a lower branch and dry it out, then see how potent it is.
I went ahead and did so, here is a few pics, let me know what you see.
This was a typical branch, equal amount of leafy material on the same amount of buds. As a way to quick dry the buds, I put them inside a paper bag and stuck it inside the unheated oven. It stays a bit warm due to the pilot light, maybe I should heat the inside for a few minutes, then let it sit until dried ?
What do you folks think ?
 

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Romalin

Member
NO! paper bag=bad! let it air dry... may take a bit longer but the result will be much better. i hate hearing the horror stories and seeing the stinky old looking bud from paper bags
 
M

mexilandrace

that that you cut still looks really immature to my eyes, that looks like it has a 3 weeks to a month left before it would be ready.
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
that that you cut still looks really immature to my eyes, that looks like it has a 3 weeks to a month left before it would be ready.
All the hairs are white, I tend to agree. Wow... how much fatter are they going to get? :D

With that long to go, you still have time for a lot of frost to show up. If that sample turns out to be in any way potent, you're gonna get a lot of potent resin in the coming frost.

Stay Safe! :D
 
M

masterKahn

You've invested so much time already at least try to finish it right. If it needs a month your almost there and it could mean the difference between premature hay and massive sativa colas.
 

OldLurker

Member
I've had best results hanging upside down for 3-5 days sometimes a bit longer. Stems should snap with ur fingers. ( not bend)
frost also can comes during drying/curing process:yoinks:
i know its hard to wait. But waiting until the pistols start to turn amber (about 60% percent) would really help in getting you better product.:2cents:
gl

ps looks 2-3 weeks to go in my eyes.
 

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