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Yield increasing planting method

G

Guest

Hey whodi
steve's right, its really only about a week.
Whenever I layer a plant, I grow it to about 16" but I stretch it by putting it a bit far from the light. I top it before i layer it. If you let the branches grow a bit after topping, you may not have to cut any off if you can get them long enough to twist around to one side.
 

berrea

Member
i used just cropping like in the picture

but this method seems to be even better with the same using of space, thanks for the idea :)
 

maiako

Member
33751untitled.JPG


Thats good idea?

silverback-can you do wrtie in paint your idea?
 
G

Guest

Hey North,

I didn't get to do anything interesting last year as I spent the enitre season carrying water. It sucks. However.....

This year I will use "mounding" on every single plant. Ill be doing it for different reasons this season although the effect should be the same. "mounding" is the act of planting the plant vertically, just much deeper than normal and enought that the branch nodes are below the surface of the soil as well so that they will root.

The effect will be a bushier plant with more yield, but the primary reason Im doing it is because i have developed an underground watering sytstem that releases water from 4-11 inches deep under the soil, so that's where I want my roots to be, so Ill be planting considerably deeper this year.

This method does require a pre grow of a couple of weeks longer than usuall so as to give the plant time to recover after being topped to force branching..
 

SatoriSOG

Member
hey silverback, i love your posts around here, i've learned much from them

I was wondering if you've ever tried your 60/60 forced flower method along with the method you talked about on page 1 and if so how were the results?
 

jakeh

Active member
Silverback,
You have got me thinking on many levels. Based on your contributions I am going to be trying your horizontal planting method with hollands hope and power plant. I am not where I can dig due to low water table 3-4ft so I plan to mound a bunch of coir or peat and wrap it in weed barrier cloth so it does not wash away. With such a low water table can you think of a good way to pull the water up to the plant . My thoughts are 4" pvc wrapped in the same weed cloth with an end cap at the bottom and some type of wick to pull it up into my mound. I've posted a more detailed explaination in Back Country's latest thread. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 

elevate

Member
I am quite late coming in on this post, but I am doing this! This year. I hope to increase yield, but ALSO increase stealth! You see, I am growing in a raised bed this year. Raised bed + tall healthy plants = MJ Radar Tower. Thank you much silver.
 

turbolaser4528

Active member
Veteran
This method looks awesome, I wanted to try and do it in a DWC and see what happens. Has anyone tried it in hydro? If so what were the results, any links to some threads on that?

i would imagine this would kick ass in hydro but i figured id ask you guys before i tried anything. Maybe even just shave the stem another 8 inches or so and keep below the lid, let me know guys im really anxious about this! haha
 

hempman

Member
yield increasing plating method

yield increasing plating method

what's up i jump on the post let all you guys n girls now that silverback now what he's talking about.I tied it last in sum of '08 but since at the time my plants were already grow to 2 ft and at the plot harden outside so used his advices on peel the skin off the stem 6 inch long,removed the 3 last nodes.It wok wonders that my two cents.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=691030&size=big&sort=1&cat=500
http://www.icmag.com/ic/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=691029&sort=1&cat=500&page=3
HERE'S SOME STEM PICS
 

neongreen

Active member
Veteran
A Bump for a great thread! IMO this should be a sticky!

To pick up on one of the points mentioned earlier, I think the reason layering works so well is because you are encouraging the growth of extra roots. As well as increasing the plants "root reach" over a wider area, you have overall more root surface area in contact with the soil. This means the plant can pull in more nutrients/water, and therefore is able to support more vigorous growth above ground, which translates into bigger yields.

I'm going to give this a go this year with a couple of plants. I was originally going to layer in just one place, a few feet up the stem, and I've already dug holes that are about a foot or less apart, but after reading through this thread I think I may just make at least one pair of holes into a long trench, and layer every couple of nodes or so. That would give me a trench 2ft x 5ft x 4D

One question - Earlier on in the thread Smurf mentioned mulching, and I was wondering what would be good material for mulching with? I'm thinking of getting some more of that composted farmyard manure... or would that be a bad idea?

Thanks again for pointing me here silverback :canabis:
 
G

Guest

I have a Joey's sugarberry, a sensi star and a white rhino that Ive been taking clones from for spring planting. They are loaded with branches so im going to mound plant all 3.

Mounding is vertical planting deep enough so that the branches are below grade and root. Each branch becomes quasi independent plant. It requires a bigger planting hole. the method also increases cold resistance.
 
C

Cerb

I was looking through some gardening books a while back and came across the method that the OP posted and decided to try it this year.. It's good to see that I'm not the only one planning on doing something similar this grow season.
 
hey silverback thx for this great method, im going to try it on 2 plants peeling the skin off all the main stem and planting side ways, just about the thing ur talking bout their bout planting the plant deep in vertical position and roots growing aswell.. u have to shave off the skin and give cloning powder? also does this stunt growth of the plant during veg? and also how long do the plants take to root?? ty
 
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