Wanna Ask The Old Farts A Question?

[goneCannagain]

Hey old Farts?

Hey old Farts?

This may be a stupid question. With regards to food, what are the ideal NPK ratios for vegging vs. flowering? As i understand it during flowering you want more Phosphorous and less Nitrogen is that correct.

 

[littleone]

Is c99 available now

Is c99 available now

as above and also have you heard of or know anything about Swiss company Actual Seeds? Claim to sell C99? Claim to sell from Hemcy, Hemcy.at

And the fake Hemcy Site Hemcy.at or as can be seen at the site "Cannapot Webshop"?

Regards

What do I plant outside in our semi desert environment that is short flowering and productive. So I might sell a couple of buds and still have plenty for me?

I considered POG and Critical Mass or Medicine Man so far and look to learn the compromises for a good alrounder that does not have pea size buds

Regards again

 

[dankster707]

hey my question is reqardng mold begiing to form on the top of my surface heres sum details u prob need to know my humitiy is in the mid to high 50s n everything was going smoothly until first week of flower i began gettin fungus gnats bought sum top feed to knock em out n after first watering im begging to get sum type of whiteish mold on the top of my soil WTF?? please help i wana fix this before it gets to bad n ruins my ladys!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[HempKat]

This may be a stupid question. With regards to food, what are the ideal NPK ratios for vegging vs. flowering? As i understand it during flowering you want more Phosphorous and less Nitrogen is that correct.

Well first of all the only stupid question is the one you never ask. I don't know if there is an ideal for NPK's as there are so many different opinions and products that work pretty well.

In general you are absolutely correct during flowering you want more phospherous and less Nitrogen and the reverse is true for veg, you want more nitrogen and less phosperous.

The ratios I try to stick with are 5-1-1 (fish emulsion) for organic ferts and 30-10-10 for chemical ferts during veg. During flower I try to stick to a 1-3-2 ratio for organic and a 10-30-20 for chemical. Now if you want to try a product that is recommended or promoted as being good for weed and it doesn't match up with what I said then don't dismiss that product, like I said, there's arguement about what's best. For example, some people promote the idea of using a flowering fert that has a very high P to N ratio in chemical they might say use a 10-50-10 so in organic I guess that would be 1-5-1. They reason that since P is the main thing used in flower then more P means more flowers. You do tend to get more or bigger flowers but you have more problems and it will effect the taste and smokeability of the bud.

Ultimately your best bet is to find a decent, easy to get, affordable brand ferts for both veg and flower. There's tons of choices out there depending on how you are willing to purchase those products. Most of them are good if you stick with them, follow directions and maintain a decent grow. So the best bet is to pick the one you feel most comfortable with, within your reach. Popular brands are: Ionic Grow, Bloom and Boost by Growth Technology (what I currently use I would say it's somewhat a blend of chemical and organic), Botanicare PureBlend Pro Grow and Bloom (organic) they also make a great supplemental product called Liquid Karma that can be used with any fert which is also more for organic as it is based on kelp and seaweed. Another good addition for an organic diet in soil is blackstrap molassass, it has some nutritional value for the plant, mostly iron I think but mainly it helps feed and keep happy the herd of micro organisms you want to encourage in and organic grow as they help to break the organics down in a form the plant can consume. Another good line is Fox Farms which I believe is organic they also have a three part similar to Ionic but I forget the names of the three parts There's also a line of many products from a company called Advanced nutrients. They have quite a few supplements that claim to do all sorts of things both chemical and organic. They also have multi part sets to cover a grow start to finish. They can legitimately claim their product is made specifically for marijuana which few companies claim. The bottomline is that most feel that if used properly Advanced products are good products but they are fairly pricey for what you do get.

I could go on and name a few others perhaps but what it really comes down to is what you're willing to do in purchasing the products and what's available to you. If you're fortunate enough to have a hydro shop nearby you can easily access all sorts of stuff there including popular ferts. However most frown on discussion of marijuana. Another thing to be aware of is that law enforcement has been known to watch hydro shops and develope leads on who to investigate based on the traffic they see. Many are not fortunate to have such a place so instead they can either depend on places like Walmart or Home Depot or Lowes. The options there are limited though. Really they're only worthwhile if you want to go the raw organic route and mix bone meal, blood meal, worm castings, bat and gull guano and stuff like that into your soil which isn't a bad way to go but requires the greatest effort on your part. So another option is to use online stores and safe addresses to be extra careful. This option is low risk especially if you jump around and you buy most things by the gallon to last a while. It also opens you up to a much greater selection.

 

[DRorganic]

looking good

 

[HempKat]

as above and also have you heard of or know anything about Swiss company Actual Seeds? Claim to sell C99? Claim to sell from Hemcy, Hemcy.at

And the fake Hemcy Site Hemcy.at or as can be seen at the site "Cannapot Webshop"?

Regards

What do I plant outside in our semi desert environment that is short flowering and productive. So I might sell a couple of buds and still have plenty for me?

I considered POG and Critical Mass or Medicine Man so far and look to learn the compromises for a good alrounder that does not have pea size buds

Regards again

Nope sorry, never heard of that seed company or those sites and I can tell you right off the bat I would not do business with a company connected to fake sites. Then again I've managed to never have to buy from a seed company yet since people keep giving me stuff to grow I did have some feminized C-99 about 3 years ago that was from www.femaleseeds.nl and was also available thru Seeds Boutique. I got them as testers when Gypsy first started carrying them and they were very nice plants with nice frosty buds that had a berry like flavor and a sweet smell. All females and only the typical late harvest hermies found in many plants. I haven't checked their or seeds boutique's sites in quite a while but last time I was there they had them.

I've never grown in a desert area before so I can't fairly recommend anything. Pretty much most plants can do well in a desert environment if you can provide enough support but with the way things have been getting with weather that can be quite challenging. I would think Sativas and maybe some Mid East strains would be better able to stand it if you're talking fairly extreme heat 100 degrees and higher.

 

[HempKat]

hey my question is reqardng mold begiing to form on the top of my surface heres sum details u prob need to know my humitiy is in the mid to high 50s n everything was going smoothly until first week of flower i began gettin fungus gnats bought sum top feed to knock em out n after first watering im begging to get sum type of whiteish mold on the top of my soil WTF?? please help i wana fix this before it gets to bad n ruins my ladys!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well humidity in the 50's is fine, for mold usually it's wanting humidity to be in the 70's. You most likely transplanted to a bigger pot just before flower and bought a bag of soil somewhere to do it. That's likely where you're gnats came from. Just because they're called fungus gnats doesn't mean they only appear where fungus is. :smile: The whiteish mold definately does not sound good. I would say it's likely connected to this top feed stuff you mentioned, what is that exactly? My intial guess is that's where the white stuff comes from and if I could scrape it off (the top feed not just the white stuff) that's what I'd do first. If the white stuff persisted you would have to start considering fungicides. I'm not very familiar with them but do know you have to be careful in using them. You would also want to check into your ventilation, air circulation and make sure your reading the humidity correctly (meaning make sure your humidity meter is accurate. With temps in the 70's to 80's in degrees F. humidity in the 50-60% range, good air circulation and good ventilation then you shouldn't be getting molds and mildew. If you mist your plants alot stop. That may be pushing up the humidity higher then you realize if you do it just before you leave the grow area. Besides in flower you want to avoid misting as their is an increased risk of bud rott.

 

[mossy]

Cheers my Friend...
a mine of useful information..as usual..Thank You

I am just playing with them but anomolies always interest me.
I love Freakie girls.

I have her seeded..so I don't want to clone but if one of her progeny carry the trait.
I will have to hunt it down.

Red lines are the bud bearing branches.
Purple lines the TWO only leaf stems.

You can see the difference the branching makes on her overhead..compared to her siblings behind her.




I have a bit more to think about now...

 

[dankster707]

WOW DUDE YER REALLY GOOD ur rite i had them all in 2 gallons sized pots n they became root bound so first week of flower i transplanted 13 to 3 gallons n one into a grow bag left the rest in 2 gallons for space reasons anyways yes thats about when my gnat infestation began.....anyways the product i got is called mosquito bits sposivly is a biological mosquito control thing but the guy at the horticultre store says it kills any bugs u have in yer soil he said to use it one time n sprinkle it like parmasean cheese n wait a week n feed one more time with it n it should completly whip them out....but now this white stuff at the surface only started appearing after using this product which they all swore by n it appears its the culprit....ive jus been tilling th surface so i cant see the mold n so the soil isnt so compact...

 

[dankster707]

a few more details that mite allow u to help me out i have two osilating fans on both corners of my bed n also have my outtake hooked up to my hood going into another room... my room is pretty sealed up i think my ventilation n airflow is pretty good minus no intake(couldnt at this spot unforchantly)....also my temps rite now they in 60-70s lights on its pretty cold where im at but its starting to warm up....

 

[HempKat]

WOW DUDE YER REALLY GOOD ur rite i had them all in 2 gallons sized pots n they became root bound so first week of flower i transplanted 13 to 3 gallons n one into a grow bag left the rest in 2 gallons for space reasons anyways yes thats about when my gnat infestation began.....anyways the product i got is called mosquito bits sposivly is a biological mosquito control thing but the guy at the horticultre store says it kills any bugs u have in yer soil he said to use it one time n sprinkle it like parmasean cheese n wait a week n feed one more time with it n it should completly whip them out....but now this white stuff at the surface only started appearing after using this product which they all swore by n it appears its the culprit....ive jus been tilling th surface so i cant see the mold n so the soil isnt so compact...

Unfortunately I'm not familiar with this mosquito product you mentioned but if you're sure that's what caused the white stuff then how do we know it's mold? Couldn't it be some reaction the mosquito stuff had when watered? I don't think you can undo having given it that stuff so about all you can really do is try to treat things as they develope. If I were worried about it I'd scoop the mold or whatever the white stuff is, out of the pot and then watch closely to see if it reappears. If so and it's spreading in the soil you're going to have to killit with a fungicide. Hopefully you can just scoop it out and be done with it.

A few things you said caught my attention. You say you think the air flow is good and the ventilation is good but then you go on to say you don't have an intake. How can your ventilation be good without an intake? You mention two fans at the foot of your bed which is presumably why you think circulation is good but is your grow also at the foot of the bed? Are the plants exposed directly to the fans enough that the leaves on the plant flutter in the breeze? One other thing that caught my attention is the temps, yeah 60-70 degrees F is too cool and if it's humid enough anf temps are cool enough without being too cold then powdery mildew can form although it usually forms on the plant so this may be different. Whether the temps are related or not, do yourself a favor and try to get the lights on temps to be in the 75 - 80 degree F range. If nothing else cooler temps will slow growth and developement.

 

[HempKat]

Cheers my Friend...
a mine of useful information..as usual..Thank You

I am just playing with them but anomolies always interest me.
I love Freakie girls.

I have her seeded..so I don't want to clone but if one of her progeny carry the trait.
I will have to hunt it down.

Red lines are the bud bearing branches.
Purple lines the TWO only leaf stems.

You can see the difference the branching makes on her overhead..compared to her siblings behind her.




I have a bit more to think about now...

You're welcome I think, I mean I'm not sure I really helpped you much but whatever help it was, was my pleasure to give. :smile:

 

[Downswing]

It's my first time going hydro. I got myself Aeroflow 14, is it NFT instead of aero?

I got myself AHH nutes and Mineral Magic. Any idea where to find some info about what's pH and EC at what stage of growth or how much to give at what stage? The language on those bottles aint saying anything to picture.

All the general tips that experience have shown you, share some with a beginner.

 

[dankster707]

Unfortunately I'm not familiar with this mosquito product you mentioned but if you're sure that's what caused the white stuff then how do we know it's mold? Couldn't it be some reaction the mosquito stuff had when watered? I don't think you can undo having given it that stuff so about all you can really do is try to treat things as they develope. If I were worried about it I'd scoop the mold or whatever the white stuff is, out of the pot and then watch closely to see if it reappears. If so and it's spreading in the soil you're going to have to killit with a fungicide. Hopefully you can just scoop it out and be done with it.

A few things you said caught my attention. You say you think the air flow is good and the ventilation is good but then you go on to say you don't have an intake. How can your ventilation be good without an intake? You mention two fans at the foot of your bed which is presumably why you think circulation is good but is your grow also at the foot of the bed? Are the plants exposed directly to the fans enough that the leaves on the plant flutter in the breeze? One other thing that caught my attention is the temps, yeah 60-70 degrees F is too cool and if it's humid enough anf temps are cool enough without being too cold then powdery mildew can form although it usually forms on the plant so this may be different. Whether the temps are related or not, do yourself a favor and try to get the lights on temps to be in the 75 - 80 degree F range. If nothing else cooler temps will slow growth and developement.

hello again hempkat well it appears the "mold" or wutever it was is gone i jus tilled the soil n dryed em out real nice it dosent appear to be spreadin at all appears to be gone anyways yes my fans are at the edge of my bed n all my plants get lots of air u can def see em fluttering or "dancing" as i like to say LOL anyways how would u suggest me raising temps in there to the 75-80 range i cant hook up a ac unit at this place or id have my intake setup as well to risky...do u suggest gettin a small lil portable heater for the room? i wish i had the dough for a dehumidifer but im pretty strapped on cash atm

 

[HempKat]

hello again hempkat well it appears the "mold" or wutever it was is gone i jus tilled the soil n dryed em out real nice it dosent appear to be spreadin at all appears to be gone anyways yes my fans are at the edge of my bed n all my plants get lots of air u can def see em fluttering or "dancing" as i like to say LOL anyways how would u suggest me raising temps in there to the 75-80 range i cant hook up a ac unit at this place or id have my intake setup as well to risky...do u suggest gettin a small lil portable heater for the room? i wish i had the dough for a dehumidifer but im pretty strapped on cash atm

Well what I'm thinking is this, I put a table against a wall, then I created a wall on either side of the table. Then I took a piece of paneling the same size as the table top (2' x 4'), lined it with mylar, attached 2 4' shop lights that each holds 2 40W tube fluoros, and then suspended the whole thing upside down above the table at a suitable clearance for the plants. Finally I made a panel on legs to go up against the front side yet be movable. Effectively this created a less then perfect (not air tight or light proof) 2' x 4' box. Now this was situated in a room whose ambient temps were about 70 degrees. That box and those lights were enough to bump the temps up to 75 degrees at the soil level of the plants in that box.

Now I'm not suggesting you do exactly what I did. Since it sounds like you're living in rental property you can exactly go around making walls and hanging lights from the ceiling. You can however, build or modify a box that size and with enough headroom to grow some decent plants. Presumably you're flowering your plants with alot more then 160W of tube fluoros. So if tube fluoros in a loosely structured box can raise temps to 75 degrees then I'm betting your lights will get it hot enough in a properly built box to require ventilation. I hear you on the strapped for cash part but you really need to find a way to take car of certain things such as humidity and temps or else you'll have lots of worries. To be honest I'm not a big advocate on growing in places owned by others or where others you can't trust with your life might be living in the same structure. Not that it's not doable but there is a much greater risk of being caught. To grow in that environment you really need a top notch stealth grow box that by all outward appearences looks like an ordinary piece of furniture but contained inside is an air cooled, ventilated, filtered, quiet grow space.

Anyway like I'm saying though, figure a way to box your grow, then you should be able to get the temps up without a heater because your grow will be the heater. You could even do it with the right sized cardboard box if it was strong enough, although I don't recommend cardboard as it's just too flammable. Also by boxing in your grow you'll get back some light energy you loose in open space, by reflecting it back to the plant.

 

[HempKat]

It's my first time going hydro. I got myself Aeroflow 14, is it NFT instead of aero?

I got myself AHH nutes and Mineral Magic. Any idea where to find some info about what's pH and EC at what stage of growth or how much to give at what stage? The language on those bottles aint saying anything to picture.

All the general tips that experience have shown you, share some with a beginner.

Alas, I am but a mere soil grower and as such I know practically nothing about any form of hydro. So for me to try and advise you would be like the blind leading the blind. :smile: Unfortunately I'm the only old fart currently active in this thread. Someone may see I can't answer your questions and chime in but I can't guarentee that. Sooooo your best best would be to use the site's search function and maybe do a search on Aeroflow 14, or Aero and if neither turns up anything useful or leads you to someone who can help better, then maybe try again with NFT as the search term.

Sorry but that's the best I can do for you when it comes to hydro.

 

[buzzed day]

hello HempKat,no questions just wanted to stop by and say high and tell you,your gallery looks good.peace

 

[duce358]

Blueberry nute question

Blueberry nute question

I just germed my bb beans & would appreciate whats nutes are recommended for soil--- MAHALO

 

[dankster707]

Well what I'm thinking is this, I put a table against a wall, then I created a wall on either side of the table. Then I took a piece of paneling the same size as the table top (2' x 4'), lined it with mylar, attached 2 4' shop lights that each holds 2 40W tube fluoros, and then suspended the whole thing upside down above the table at a suitable clearance for the plants. Finally I made a panel on legs to go up against the front side yet be movable. Effectively this created a less then perfect (not air tight or light proof) 2' x 4' box. Now this was situated in a room whose ambient temps were about 70 degrees. That box and those lights were enough to bump the temps up to 75 degrees at the soil level of the plants in that box.

Now I'm not suggesting you do exactly what I did. Since it sounds like you're living in rental property you can exactly go around making walls and hanging lights from the ceiling. You can however, build or modify a box that size and with enough headroom to grow some decent plants. Presumably you're flowering your plants with alot more then 160W of tube fluoros. So if tube fluoros in a loosely structured box can raise temps to 75 degrees then I'm betting your lights will get it hot enough in a properly built box to require ventilation. I hear you on the strapped for cash part but you really need to find a way to take car of certain things such as humidity and temps or else you'll have lots of worries. To be honest I'm not a big advocate on growing in places owned by others or where others you can't trust with your life might be living in the same structure. Not that it's not doable but there is a much greater risk of being caught. To grow in that environment you really need a top notch stealth grow box that by all outward appearences looks like an ordinary piece of furniture but contained inside is an air cooled, ventilated, filtered, quiet grow space.

Anyway like I'm saying though, figure a way to box your grow, then you should be able to get the temps up without a heater because your grow will be the heater. You could even do it with the right sized cardboard box if it was strong enough, although I don't recommend cardboard as it's just too flammable. Also by boxing in your grow you'll get back some light energy you loose in open space, by reflecting it back to the plant.

hey again hempkat well i think theres a couple things i left out im growin under a 1000watt hps n i have a 4x4 grow space i also have my script so im allowed to grow what i have not to worried about that what im worried about is theifs anyways sumthing i have been doing to raise temps is turn my oven on it heats up the room pretty nicely i do have mylar on one of the walls my table is on and another wall on another side of the grow u think by puttin up two more walls of mylar this would work to heat it up witout a heater? does it have to go all the way to the ceiling n "trap" the light to heat it up and by the way orginaly i was planning on using a grow tent but sum shit went down with that n i ended up not waiting for it to come it was takin to long so i set up witout it been doin ok minus the gnats n low temps everythings going pretty good they almost 2 foot 2 1/2 weeks into flowering

 

[alk_loid]

its a shame that hempkat alone have to answer all questions, and theres allways questions.
but your doing very very good work, anyone can say that.



i put my girls to 12/12 mode today.
question if i want to check girls when they sleep, with little ambient light far away. is it bad? or how dangerous this is to get hermies?