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bigwity

Active member
Veteran
only thing i notice with my cheese is a few of the leaf edges tilt up and make the leaves look like conoes think its a ec thing tbh but im not sure it doesnt hurt from what ive noticed
 
C

cheesey

a question for any of you who grow cheese ....ive noticed a few of my friends who grow cheese have been getting problems ,,they keep getting rust spots which later turn the leafs brittle and yellow /brown ,,so i got a cut back off them and the same happen to me but it happen to me at week 7 it happens to them bang on week 5 each time and has done for the past 3 runs for them ,my mates think its there water ,,

anyone else get rust spots on your cheese cut ???

hey b man, never had that problem in the past im on the middle of week 3 atm with a cheese cut . watch this space lol .







ph 5.9 ec 1.6 1ml regen a root 1ml headmasta 1ml pothash ( 1500ml per feed 300ml run off ) and air pots (6ltr)
 
only thing i notice with my cheese is a few of the leaf edges tilt up and make the leaves look like conoes think its a ec thing tbh but im not sure it doesnt hurt from what ive noticed

you'll find thats heat and not related to ec, bman are you saying the cheese cut might have TMV? I for one havent seen it on any of my cheese cuts or crosses of her

nice work uk
 

funkymonkey

Member
Yes, that's a very common problem with Cheese, it's phosphoous deficiency, the damn thing loves to eat phosphorous. If you look at pics of Cheese online you'll see a ton of people have had this problem. I'm talking about the Exodus/Brightside cut, not sure about the others.

This is the Cheese in my garden years ago, you can see the phos def clearly, this was the first time I ran it and was taken by surprise by the phos def:

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Second time I ran it, beasted her with the PK and as you can see, the phos def is gone apart from a tiny tiny bit of browning on the tips of the serrations. I overdid the PK a wee bit as you can see from the burnt tips, I found with Canna A+B and PK13-14 she liked EC 1.9 best, I pushed this one to EC 2.0 and hence the slight tip burn.

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Don Lebowski

New member
That's not how to grow cheese cheesey. I do not think that is cheese either funkey.. You lot are mislead and lost when it comes to this topic these 2 guys tell nuff bull you 2 uk guys are usless Pk 13/14 wont work,, best to grow them small in soil then no tiny problems thats all I'll say!!! How did you get it deficient with your master mix monkey I thought you made 9/18.
 

VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
Boutique Breeder
Mentor
ICMag Donor
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i found that cheese had the P def much more with coco mix than it did in just soil/peat mix
 

funkymonkey

Member
Hello Don Lebowski, let me say straight off, you are cannaboy and your bullshit is not welcome here, go fuck yourself.

PK13/14 won't work and cheese is best grown small in soil?

That cut I show isn't Cheese? That's the Brightside/Exodus cuttins you tool.

That's not how to grow Cheese? You who always shows burnt heat stressed crappy plants should STFU.

Cannaboy, you're a complete prick and everyone here knows it, you have a lot of growing up to do you little shit.
 

bigwity

Active member
Veteran
lmao its cannablanka he cant stay away can he FM is like columbo canna youll never get past him ha quality.
 

funkymonkey

Member
i found that cheese had the P def much more with coco mix than it did in just soil/peat mix

Yup, Cheese struggles to get enough P in coco, my plants I showed were in coco. If you look back at people's chesses grown in coco, they almost all show some P def to some degree, my example was particularly severe and I attribute it to that run being done with Monkey Juice as my shop were out of Canna and the Monkey Juice was garbage, second run with Canna looked much better as you can see from the pics.
 
C

cheesey

That's not how to grow cheese cheesey. I do not think that is cheese either funkey.. You lot are mislead and lost when it comes to this topic these 2 guys tell nuff bull you 2 uk guys are usless Pk 13/14 wont work,, best to grow them small in soil then no tiny problems thats all I'll say!!! How did you get it deficient with your master mix monkey I thought you made 9/18.

cannaboy u knob jockey . thats no way to grow cheese ? dude please . u havnt a clue have you . . nothing wrong with flowering a 13" clone under 600w is there ???
why bother rejoining with new names no 1 waits you on this site
 
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theherbalizor

Well-known member
Veteran
This is why I love the Superiour Potash, from day 1 or day 10 for me the plants are getting plenty of PK. Rather than for just 3-7 days at week 5 as some feeds recommend.


Oh happy days my end.... All those heris that I thought were male, turns out I have 5 females and a lovely male. With VG;s heri I should hopefully find one like I had before.
 
C

cheesey

This is why I love the Superiour Potash, from day 1 or day 10 for me the plants are getting plenty of PK. Rather than for just 3-7 days at week 5 as some feeds recommend.


Oh happy days my end.... All those heris that I thought were male, turns out I have 5 females and a lovely male. With VG;s heri I should hopefully find one like I had before.

ive been useing Superiour Potash for the past 4 grows plants looking great . but i find it doent do much to the final yeild like it says on the site ......


re you looking for heavier flowers? You’ve grown your crop through the vegetative stage and now you are ready to turn the lights down and let it begin its flowering stage. It is now, after the framework of the plant has been set during the vegetative period, that there is a massive surge in the plant’s requirement for more potassium to develop flowers. It is at this point that potassium in the solution can drop to critical levels. Plants are very adaptable, however and in the case of lowered potassium availability, will simply slow down their growth rate to match the available potassium. However, who wants the growth rate to slow down? It just means a smaller crop. And who wants to be changing their solution every couple of days just to make sure that there is enough potassium in it?

The answer is Superior Potash. Manufactured to exacting standards using our exclusive Hot Mix technology, Superior Potash will give you the peace of mind of knowing that the product is of the highest quality.

So why don’t we just put all of this extra potassium in the nutrient mix? We can’t, really, for two reasons. The most important is that everybody’s system is different. We make the nutrients to cope with a wide range of conditions and if we put in the extra potassium, some systems could become quickly out of balance. Adding the extra potassium is really fine tuning and we can’t assume that everybody’s plants are growing in the same way. Problems could occur because systems are managed by conductivity rather than chemical analysis. The second problem is a chemical one. Concentrated nutrients start to behave differently as the concentration increases and can start to ‘salt out’ under some conditions. We therefore maintain normal concentrations and recommend Superior Potash as an addition to your normal fertilizing regime.
 
H

Hazyfontazy

g skunk

g skunk

found a little info on the g skunk thats found around my local area ,,

g skunk

Legendary strain of highly potent cannabis, most notable for its extremely pungent aroma. Although famous in Birmingham, England, G was the result of a selective breeding program, run in Amsterdam in 1992/1993, by Brit expats Raggy and Lance.
A clone of the strain was then exported to England. All G skunk grown today is grown from cuttings, as no male G skunk plant has ever been grown, and therefore no pure strain seed can be produced, though in 1996 a female G was crossed with male Northern Lights. Seeds of this hybrid were then taken to South Africa and crossed with indigenous Durban Poison.

taken from
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=g+skunk

raggy and lance grew for the global chillage coffeshop at the time so if u was in the shop in the early 90's u may well have toked it :tiphat:
 

funkymonkey

Member
This is why I love the Superiour Potash, from day 1 or day 10 for me the plants are getting plenty of PK. Rather than for just 3-7 days at week 5 as some feeds recommend.


Oh happy days my end.... All those heris that I thought were male, turns out I have 5 females and a lovely male. With VG;s heri I should hopefully find one like I had before.

Yup, a good PK booster is essential with some plants. There are some plants that are great grown with just base nutes but some really do need heavier levels of PK in mid to late flowering.

Good news about the Heri, you know who wants a cut when you find the right one, don't ya? lol

Cheesey, I wouldn't worry about the yield, you're better off with slightly less yield but loads of resin and a clean burning end product that Superior Potash gives ya. You could get more yield by feeding high levels of n into late flower as the commercial blokes do, but you get leafier less resinous flowers, the way you and herb do it where the plants are turning nicely yellow is correct, think of how plants grow in nature - by autumn they are turning yellow. If you feed high N into late flower they stay green and yield more but the bud is not as good, more leaf, more chlorophyll, worse taste, doesn't burn as clean. Some people think they can feed N right up until the last 2 weeks than flush it out, you can't flush all the N out in 2 weeks, the plant won't eat up all it's N reserves in that time which is why you want to start cutting down N by introducing a Pk booster in early to mid flower so that there is already some yellowing from the plant eating up it's reserves before you get to the beginning of flush. Oh, and feeding N into late flower also makes plants take longer to finish. It's not about getting the biggest possible yield, it's about getting the best possible quality while maintaining a much of the potential maximum yield as you can which is always a compromise, some are happy with passable quality and huge yield whereas conoisseurs like us lot shoot for maximum quality and yield has to come second but we still need to get a good yield.

Herb is dead right about using a Pk booster for a short time like some manufacturers say being bollocks, Canna say use Pk for a week, that's crap. he way to use a Pk booster is how herb says - to gradually introduce it.

At the begining of flower you want an NPK ratio around 2:1:2 so there is plenty of N to fuel the rapid growth. This is why we feed veg nutes first 2-3 weeks of 12/12.

Once the vertical growth has stopped and the flowers begun to appear you want to change the NPK ratio to around 1:1:2, less N because the plants don't need as much, they need P and K for growing lots of flowers. This is why we feed bloom nutes, they have less N.

As flowering continues you want to gradually reduce N while maintaing the PK levels so that by the time you get to the final phase of flowering before flush the NPK ratio is 0:1:2, no N, plants should be yellowing. The way to gradually reduce the N and maintain the PK is to reduce the amount of base nute you feed while upping the amount of PK booster you are giving.

Those NPK ratios have been known since Mel Frank in the early 80s and every grower should understand the feeding requirements of cannabis, it's the fault of the nute companies that so many growers don't really understand what the plant needs in terms of NPK and have to go by what the companies tell em and often they tell them a load of tosh.

Hope that helps. I've been having great sucess with Ionic coco nutes because they have the correct 2:1:2 and 1:1:2 ratios for veg and bloom and that makes em dead simple to use. I feed the 2:1:2 for the first 2 weeks of 12/12 with a typical 9-10 week plant then feed the 1:1:2 for 2 weeks then the 1:1:2 plus a 0:1:2 PK booster for 4 weeks then 2 weeks of water to leach salts. I like this regime cos it's simple and easy for me to adjust my N:p:K levels. The 0:1:2 PK Booster I use is my homebrew copy of AN Hammerhead which is the same thing as Superior Potash with the same 0-9-18 NPK values.

BTW, it is imoprtant to remember the difference between NPK ratios and NPK values. A bottle of Superior Potash has NPK values of 0-9-18 (always use dashes when using values). However the NPK ratio of Superior Potash is 0:1:2 (note the use of colons when using ratios) because there it twice as much K as P. The 0-9-18 NPK values are percentages, it means the liquid solution in the bottle is 9% soluble P and 18% soluble K. The NPK ratios are relative to each other, because 18% is 2x 9% the ratio of K to P is 2x so the NPK ratio is written as 0:1:2.

I hope that's clear, I know it's a tiny bit off-topic but I've been doing a lot of research into the feeding requirements of cannabis and the use of PK boosters recently and I learnt a lot I didn't know and felt others should also know. One big thing I've realised is how wrong some of the manufacturer's feeding guidelines are, it's almost like they want us to be confused!
 

funkymonkey

Member
ive been useing Superiour Potash for the past 4 grows plants looking great . but i find it doent do much to the final yeild like it says on the site ......


re you looking for heavier flowers? You’ve grown your crop through the vegetative stage and now you are ready to turn the lights down and let it begin its flowering stage. It is now, after the framework of the plant has been set during the vegetative period, that there is a massive surge in the plant’s requirement for more potassium to develop flowers. It is at this point that potassium in the solution can drop to critical levels. Plants are very adaptable, however and in the case of lowered potassium availability, will simply slow down their growth rate to match the available potassium. However, who wants the growth rate to slow down? It just means a smaller crop. And who wants to be changing their solution every couple of days just to make sure that there is enough potassium in it?

The answer is Superior Potash. Manufactured to exacting standards using our exclusive Hot Mix technology, Superior Potash will give you the peace of mind of knowing that the product is of the highest quality.

So why don’t we just put all of this extra potassium in the nutrient mix? We can’t, really, for two reasons. The most important is that everybody’s system is different. We make the nutrients to cope with a wide range of conditions and if we put in the extra potassium, some systems could become quickly out of balance. Adding the extra potassium is really fine tuning and we can’t assume that everybody’s plants are growing in the same way. Problems could occur because systems are managed by conductivity rather than chemical analysis. The second problem is a chemical one. Concentrated nutrients start to behave differently as the concentration increases and can start to ‘salt out’ under some conditions. We therefore maintain normal concentrations and recommend Superior Potash as an addition to your normal fertilizing regime.

That's actually a pretty honest and accurate write-up by nute company standards.

What they say about not being able to put ton of potassium in the base formula is correct, it would precipitate and drop out of solution and as they say, the actual levels of potassium the plant needs changes depending on what phase of flowering it is in so it is better to have a seperate bottle of PK as it allows you to adjust the PK levels. What they say about different people's plants having different requirements is also true, different plants have different feeding needs and environment can affect that so you can't make a 'one fits all' nutrient, again this is a reason why a separate bottle of PK is a good idea.

No idea about the Hot Mix technology, but the Canadian Xpress products have been shown to work well by loads of people. Out of all the companies, they are one of the best imho because their products are all sensible things, they don't sell a ton of stuff of dubious benefit, all their products have a clear purpose and do what they claim, they are well priced too, have a look how much their Headmasta and Regen-a-Root are compared to Canna Boost and Rhizotonic. They come in 1 litre bottles for less than the price of a little 250ml bottle from Canna.

At the end of the day, all nutes from all companies work, it's just figuring out how to use the damn things and some companies make that really hard to do with wierd feeding schedules and dodgy guaranteed analysis of what's actually in the bottles. I'm not seeing that from Canadian Xpress, their product range all makes sense to me.
 

funkymonkey

Member
It might just be the lighting when the pic was taken but if I was being hyper-critical I would say there may be a tiny, tiny bit of magnesium deficiency on this plant:

dsc00026622229.jpg


It looks like the sides of the bud leaves is slightly paler green than the centre of the leaves, this is common to see in coco and is caused by Magnesium deficiency, this is why a lot of coco growers, especially in the US where the water is different to the UK always add some Epsom Salts (Magnesium Sulphate) to their nutes.

Not being critical cheesey, plant looks tip-top. If you do ever see the edges of the leaves turning a paler green than the middle, it's magnesium deficiency and the quick fix is Epsom Salts. Some people foliar spray the Epsom onto the plants, that clears it up in a day or two, but I don't like spraying, adding the Epsom to the nutes you're feeding clears it up in 3-4 days anyways. The def is so slight on this plant that I wouldn't bother doing anything, it will be fine, but if you do see it getting any worse, just add a pinch of Epsom salts, all garden centres sell it, B&Q and other places like that should have it too.

1000197_1.jpg
 
C

cheesey

It might just be the lighting when the pic was taken but if I was being hyper-critical I would say there may be a tiny, tiny bit of magnesium deficiency on this plant:

dsc00026622229.jpg


It looks like the sides of the bud leaves is slightly paler green than the centre of the leaves, this is common to see in coco and is caused by Magnesium deficiency, this is why a lot of coco growers, especially in the US where the water is different to the UK always add some Epsom Salts (Magnesium Sulphate) to their nutes.

Not being critical cheesey, plant looks tip-top. If you do ever see the edges of the leaves turning a paler green than the middle, it's magnesium deficiency and the quick fix is Epsom Salts. Some people foliar spray the Epsom onto the plants, that clears it up in a day or two, but I don't like spraying, adding the Epsom to the nutes you're feeding clears it up in 3-4 days anyways.

leafs are a nice green color . i took the pic 3ft away with stock flash on my d60 ... next time i get the plant out ill do some better shots ...
unlike my ghsc jack herer . i hit that with epsoms 2 days ago ..
 

funkymonkey

Member
It could well be the pic mate, never seen mag def on your plants grown with the Canadian Xpress before so I expect there is plenty of magnesium and calcium in those nutes.

Coco's natural properties means it tends to lock out Cal and Mag which is why coco nutrients have more cal and mag that hydro nutrients. That's usually the only difference between the coco and hydro versions - they put extra cal and mag in the coco formula.
 

lovelightpower

Active member
Veteran
well, sampling some of cheesey's gold dust today;
its hash made from a silk screen.
the strain is nightmare kush (the white s1)
after the first hit my vision blurs slightly, and a warmness starts in my head. i become stimulated in a kind of "pick me up" way, whilst it also relaxes me. the "living in a bubble" syndrome kicks in, and i feel slightly less motivated to do anything strenuous. I've also noticed this time smoking it a spiritual element to it, definite stronger connection to spirit. i think this maybe down to a psychedelic edge which is entwined into the stoned lethargy.
chatting and cognition are fine and i have no problem communication. but my eyelids do feel a tad too heavy, and i do feel pretty lacking in sleep. but i have been doing some heavy trimming sessions this week.
lovely hashy flavour, seems like the nmk weed tastes pretty hashy, so the actual hash is a really nice double hashy taste.
the second bong has left me slightly empty headed. the first bong was really insiration, but the second seems to have robbed my mind.

i'm off on another trimming session now, will be caning this through the night as well as a little scissor scapings :)
 
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