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This Is How You Kill Powder Mildew Forever!!!!!

Y

YosemiteSam

I forget what it works out in ppm...but even at 7.5% you are barely using any to start with. As I recall Fe basically equals Mn and I wanted a little more.

The other two things that would help in coco or hydro would be an occasional kelp foliar...and at least in coco you can add some humic acid although carbon in basically a tea brewer for good hydro systems may not be a good idea.

Next time I am around a STEM bottle I will get the actual ppms and post them
 
I could not get high brix with Jack's. The problem is all the K they use and the fact that they use KNO3 to achieve it at the expense of CaNO3. This is the common hydro paradigm though.

If you get all of your NO3 from CaNO3 you can achieve a 3:1 Ca:Mg ratio with decent Mg levels...and then by limiting your K to basically equal levels as NO3 you do not lock out Mg with it.

This formula works very well in hydro or coco...

CaNO3...2.44 grams per gallon
epsom...1.6
mkp....1.33

Plus the usual micro suspects. If memory serves it is
100-80-100-117-40-53 N-P-K-Ca-Mg-S.

In hydro you gotta keep the nutes in the 6-6.2 pH range...but once in the plant you will get close to 6.4 and at least over 10 on brix. Your plants will be far healthier than the normal hydro paradigm formulas.

I have used it in coco and a friend uses it in dwc...so it isn't speculation, it is experience.

Thanks for the insight YS. I can say with the Jacks I am getting some of the best results I have ever had with less hassle. The pH in my feed reservoirs does not move. At 700 ppm it comes to 5.3 pH. We add ~1 gal of tap to 50 gal of feed water which brings us up to 5.8 and it does not move for the 6 days it lasts. LOVE IT!

I am going to try your numbers up top. I will just need to pick up the MKP to do so. Did you notice an improvement in health switching to raw salts from the JP formula? Do you find yourself making adjustments throughout the life cycle of the plant or are you running the same ratio all the way through in different concentrations?
 

pip313

Member
Lol I got rid of pm with nothing more than taking a small clone with pm, striping any part with a outbreak and growing a new top. Once the new top is the size of a us quarter I remove every leaf besides the new small top. Remember this is a small just rooted clone we started with. Besides a wipe down with rubbing alcohol once no chemicals. 6 months later a hundred clones and 3 different locations no powdery mildew.

Pm is not systematic.
 

Bigge

Member
What are the results of using E20 during flower? Taste? Odor? Death by lung cancer? Test reports? With the politically correct folks standing by to lament and warn of the 'dangers' no one will probably admit it here but I'm sure there's someone with the 'fuck it' attitude here that has experience spraying this late in flower in a last ditch attempt to save the crop...anyone bold enough to share their experience? Effects on testing, taste, odor would be great...not looking for generic safety warnings...if you tried it and the final tasted like crap or had some bad test results I'd like to know. I'm using greencure on my flowers but it would be maybe worth it for me to E20, clean room and fans and reveg...get on the E20 schedule and kick PM in the nutts for good.

Read MSDS but don't see impact on
 

philmcchillum

New member
High, :eek:)
Has anybud tried "MICROBIAL" from Australia, just bought some and i'm trying it out at the moment. They claim it kills PM and loads of other nasty shit ta boot. Check out their website for the chart and dosage rate plus all tech info and claims. It can be used from seed and through out the entire grow. Can be sprayed on and kills PM on contact. Cost me £20 a litre.
Cheers, regards ta ya al
 

vertigo0007

Member
What are the results of using E20 during flower? Taste? Odor? Death by lung cancer? Test reports? With the politically correct folks standing by to lament and warn of the 'dangers' no one will probably admit it here but I'm sure there's someone with the 'fuck it' attitude here that has experience spraying this late in flower in a last ditch attempt to save the crop...anyone bold enough to share their experience? Effects on testing, taste, odor would be great...not looking for generic safety warnings...if you tried it and the final tasted like crap or had some bad test results I'd like to know. I'm using greencure on my flowers but it would be maybe worth it for me to E20, clean room and fans and reveg...get on the E20 schedule and kick PM in the nutts for good.

Read MSDS but don't see impact on

if youre looking for someone to tell you its ok to poison your customers, good luck. On the other hand, I can and will tell you that smoking green cure (or anything else you spray on your buds) is fucking gross
 

frankenstein2

Astronaut Status
Veteran
I just got done with an epic battle with pm. The mothers had it, the clones had it. Shit both flowering tables had it. Eagle 20 for the mother f@cking win!!!!!! Seriously it works. The other thing I did that is a must: Filter the air coming in to the room. I have a sealed room. But air still comes from outside to cool the lights and give fresh air to the mothers. They have filters at walmart for like 8 bucks. They are the ones for a furnace. No need to get the really pricey ones. The green $8 deal is exactly what you want. it traps mold spores nd a bunch of others. I used the eagle 20 and put a filter on the air intake, and boom pm is gone.
 

Bigge

Member
Vertigo...I am my only customer. So you are saying that using E20 and reveging will poison me? What do you base this on? Then you say anything else you can spray on buds is gross? What do you base this on? I don't agree with either statement but those are your opinions. It seems your response is based on your experience with green cure...which is welcome input....but my question is regarding E20 and the effects of using on flowering plants and reveging them. Also I'm not asking for or want your permission to 'poision' anyone...I want to know the effects..if you have some valid reasonable input please provide it...if not go troll somewhere else....I got some E20 today and am going to run it on two plants that I will reveg and see what happens...hopefully the time reveging wil allow time to cleanse them...I will then see the outcome...better a long time finishing than a lost plant in my case. Please refrain from "it will poison you" without some reason as I don't think e20 will remain in the plant if I give it long enough to decay sufficiently in the plant.
 
Vertigo...I am my only customer. So you are saying that using E20 and reveging will poison me? What do you base this on? Then you say anything else you can spray on buds is gross? What do you base this on? I don't agree with either statement but those are your opinions. It seems your response is based on your experience with green cure...which is welcome input....but my question is regarding E20 and the effects of using on flowering plants and reveging them. Also I'm not asking for or want your permission to 'poision' anyone...I want to know the effects..if you have some valid reasonable input please provide it...if not go troll somewhere else....I got some E20 today and am going to run it on two plants that I will reveg and see what happens...hopefully the time reveging wil allow time to cleanse them...I will then see the outcome...better a long time finishing than a lost plant in my case. Please refrain from "it will poison you" without some reason as I don't think e20 will remain in the plant if I give it long enough to decay sufficiently in the plant.

Hey buddy you bought the bottle ever hear of the MSDS? Might wanna start there.

Its not going to harm the plant no matter what stage of growth it is in. The plants will thrive and PM will be gone. However your buds will contain residual E20 if you spray now. Again I will direct you to the MSDS. I would reveg to save genetics but not consume the material.

You are obviously looking for a go ahead. I've attached a journal article with some more info to aid you in your decision to do so.

Charles Darwin please help us all!


P.S. - If its just for you and not for market why even spray? PM is not going to kill the plant it is an obligate biotroph and requires a host to survive. PM causes no known respiratory issues in healthy individuals.
 

Attachments

  • Myclobutanil Dissipation in Foliage and Soil Tobaccoo.pdf
    162 KB · Views: 63

Bigge

Member
Good feedback thanks for the article and the input. I'm really not looking for go ahead...I'm going forward of my own accord....I'm looking for experience...and this article suggests that if enough time is given for the material to decay then the levels subside...Thanks

Why bother? Buds smell like mildew...no bueno.

When I say reveging I don't mean after harvest...but changing light cycle back to veg timers...and reverting to veg to give more recovery time...only after reflower I would consume flowers.
 

Bigge

Member
Went with neem and ozone generator during flower.....mildew and mildew smell are gone...plants were droopy for two days...not great but it was two plants....I'll definitely use e20 on clones and late veg moving forward.
 

frankenstein2

Astronaut Status
Veteran
I love how everyone is so touchy about the e-20 still being in the buds. The half life alone makes it so in a 60 day flower cycle there will be no e-20 left in the plant material. Shit after 30 days the level is so low it's almost non-exsistant. I mean seriously they use it on grapes and all kinds of other fruits and veggies that we all eat. Shit 90% of what we buy in stores has been treated with something. Eagle 20 works and that's that. If you don't like it or don't wanna use it then more power to ya. Keep fighting pm and losing the rest of us will use e-20 and be happy pm is gone, and for good.
 

citifield

Member
Just because they use it on foods doesn't mean it's safe for us , we also don't smoke foods. There are so many assholes growing weed now that there are cock suckers who'll spray the shit in flower just so they can get a crop though. I'll soon have my veg room situated properly and will hopefully not need any pesticides anymore. I'm trying to grow top flight medicine and would rather not use any pesticides I'm it.
 

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
Reality check...any proof (as in scientific...3rd party stuff) that using 0.75-1.0 ml of Eagle20 per gallon for foliar spraying is dangerous to ANYONE or ANYTHING (but powdery mildew)?

1 ml of Eagle20 contains 0.197 ml of active ingredient.
1 ml of Eagle20 diluted in 1 gallon equates to a dilution rate where...
1 ml of spray contains 0.0000520475561426684 ml of active ingredient.

Using a low velocity, low pressure "paint sprayer" I can spray 40+ plants with less than 32 oz of spray. So, lets make it easy, 32 plants with 32 oz of spray, or 1 oz of spray per plant.

So...0.197 ml of active ingredient (1ml of Eagle20 in a gallon of water) divided by 128 oz is equal to 0.0015390625 ml per oz...which is the same per plant, yes? Maybe not, since 100% of the spray does not land on the plant (overspray) and we have a thing called breakdown (as evidenced by half-life) the actual residual amount of active ingredient that lands on a plant is certainly less than 0.0015390625 ml...maybe half that? or could it be closer to 10% (if so, then add another zero to the right of the decimal point).

Now...how many buds per plant? Say 3 zips per plant, and average bud is 1 gram (lets make it easy), so that should be about 83.5 grams per plant. Lets divide 0.0015390625 ml by 83.5....and now each bud could have 0.000018000730994152 ml of active ingredient...and that is BEFORE factoring in things like breakdown/residual (60 days from spray day) and how much of the spray actually lands on the plant. Like I said, adding another zero or two might be more accurate in guestimating how much Eagle20 is in a bud.

IMHO, if there are too many zeros to the right of the decimal point for it to matter, then the issue is probably not significant and not very important to worry about--probably more danger in touching a dollar bill than smoking a bud that was responsibly treated with Eagle20 (the germ count on a dollar bill is greater than 0.000018000730994152)!

Like I said, time for a little "reality check"!

Cheers!
 
:yeahthats

Anyone?

I've come to similar conclusions with my math. I spray moms and veg stock 2 times a year as a preventative now and have yet to see it for almost 2 years now.

Since the epidemic we had about 2 years ago I have sprayed 6 times total. 2 of those times were in succession a few weeks apart when it was ravaging my rooms. Mix up a gallon it treats a SHIT TON of plants with an atomizer. No PM at all PERIOD since first application.

If you pull up the studies that show it causes reproductive harm over a couple generations in rats the amount of myclobutanil fed over the course of months far exceeds any amount we would ever encounter.

In my opinion the person most in danger is the one applying the product. I always wear protective eye wear along with my standard attire of swim trunks and flip flops when applying.

:biggrin:
 
Last edited:

vertigo0007

Member
Reality check...any proof (as in scientific...3rd party stuff) that using 0.75-1.0 ml of Eagle20 per gallon for foliar spraying is dangerous to ANYONE or ANYTHING (but powdery mildew)?

1 ml of Eagle20 contains 0.197 ml of active ingredient.
1 ml of Eagle20 diluted in 1 gallon equates to a dilution rate where...
1 ml of spray contains 0.0000520475561426684 ml of active ingredient.

Using a low velocity, low pressure "paint sprayer" I can spray 40+ plants with less than 32 oz of spray. So, lets make it easy, 32 plants with 32 oz of spray, or 1 oz of spray per plant.

So...0.197 ml of active ingredient (1ml of Eagle20 in a gallon of water) divided by 128 oz is equal to 0.0015390625 ml per oz...which is the same per plant, yes? Maybe not, since 100% of the spray does not land on the plant (overspray) and we have a thing called breakdown (as evidenced by half-life) the actual residual amount of active ingredient that lands on a plant is certainly less than 0.0015390625 ml...maybe half that? or could it be closer to 10% (if so, then add another zero to the right of the decimal point).

Now...how many buds per plant? Say 3 zips per plant, and average bud is 1 gram (lets make it easy), so that should be about 83.5 grams per plant. Lets divide 0.0015390625 ml by 83.5....and now each bud could have 0.000018000730994152 ml of active ingredient...and that is BEFORE factoring in things like breakdown/residual (60 days from spray day) and how much of the spray actually lands on the plant. Like I said, adding another zero or two might be more accurate in guestimating how much Eagle20 is in a bud.

IMHO, if there are too many zeros to the right of the decimal point for it to matter, then the issue is probably not significant and not very important to worry about--probably more danger in touching a dollar bill than smoking a bud that was responsibly treated with Eagle20 (the germ count on a dollar bill is greater than 0.000018000730994152)!

Like I said, time for a little "reality check"!

Cheers!

Hot damn! Can i spray you with an atomizer full of eagle 20? Also, my math says spraying chemicals on buds = being a fucking scumbag.
 
Hot damn! Can i spray you with an atomizer full of eagle 20? Also, my math says spraying chemicals on buds = being a fucking scumbag.

Bro I knock out my athletes foot with it at the same time I spray the room! :biggrin:

Agreed dont spray on buds or in bloom at all but Vert you gotta agree that applied properly at the right time its one of the best preventative/curatives for PM? Haven't used Quadris yet though sooooo....
 

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