S
SeaMaiden
YES!! Do it like a zoo! QT QT QT QT.
-
Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
-
Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!
This Is How You Kill Powder Mildew Forever!!!!!
- Thread starter krunchbubble
- Start date
YES!! Do it like a zoo! QT QT QT QT.
C
c-ray
a) use method of choice to remove parasitic organism(s)
b) transplant into brix enhancing medium
c) foliar feed as needed with brix enhancing nutrients
d) when plant has successfully been converted, take cuts, transplant and grow grow grow
Caravaggio
Member
We spray it every 30 days up to day 1 of flower. Haven't had any issues with PM since.
I have been having an ongoing PM problem for 6 months now. I have used alot of Myclobutanil. I dont think its a matter of it working or not, I may have a little resistance built up. I do perpetual and dont spray after week 3. So the PM appears late in flower and reinfects stuff as Myclo wears off or if there is resistance.
So I am researching options.
1) Using thinkgs like Greencure, ProTekt, Milk every week in an IPM kinda way. There is alot of info about these other techniques
2) Using things like Sovran and more modern fungicides. This has potential, but I dont want to use more stuff in general.
3) Interested in the Brix thing that c-Ray was talking about. Increasing ph of sap to 6.4 is interesting. Here is a product that may address that. Aptus Mass Boost and Fasilitor
http://aptus-usa.com/massboost.php
MassBoost is an organo-mineral plant booster that prevents Calcium (Ca) and Magnesium (Mg) deficiencies while stimulating powerful fruit set and development.
Why Use MassBoost
Provides organic Nitrogen combined with Calcium and Magnesium and L-Amino Acids that stimulate plant development
100% water soluble and leaves no residue
Combines Calcium (Ca) and Magnesium (Mg) with L-Amino Acids to eliminate deficiencies
High bioavailability
Improves structure and firmness of the flower and fruit
Provides the extra boost plants need during certain plant development phases
MassBoost Contains
Organic Nitrogen (N)
Calcium (Ca)
Magnesium (Mg)
L-Amino Acids
How MassBoost Works
Aids in plant structure and photosynthesis
Improves structure and firmness of fruits and flowers
Stimulates fruit set and floral development
Activates enzymatic activity
Higher levels of Ca and Mg help raise internal plant pH to resist fungal attacks
Tips from Expert Growers
Use MassBoost in combination with PeakBoost & FinaleBoost in the last weeks to get maximum weight.
Pay attention when you mix PeakBoost and MassBoost as they can react together. Always add one, dilute and mix then the other. In case you use a lot of Phosphorous based products, then take care when adding MassBoost since Phosphorous and Calcium mixed together in high concentrations may cause deposits and residues.
If using reverse osmosis water (RO), it's a good idea to supplement with a small amount of a cheap CaMg product during vegetative growth. Never use MassBoost at the same feeding with another CaMg product.
MassBoost at full strength may be a bit harsh on young or weak plants. Take care when using during the vegetative and early bloom stages, using 0.5-1 ml per gallon. Especially if your base nutrient has high salt content, you won't need full strength MassBoost until week 5 of bloom.
Many growers find that once per week usage is plenty to see good results.
So I am researching options.
1) Using thinkgs like Greencure, ProTekt, Milk every week in an IPM kinda way. There is alot of info about these other techniques
2) Using things like Sovran and more modern fungicides. This has potential, but I dont want to use more stuff in general.
3) Interested in the Brix thing that c-Ray was talking about. Increasing ph of sap to 6.4 is interesting. Here is a product that may address that. Aptus Mass Boost and Fasilitor
http://aptus-usa.com/massboost.php
MassBoost is an organo-mineral plant booster that prevents Calcium (Ca) and Magnesium (Mg) deficiencies while stimulating powerful fruit set and development.
Why Use MassBoost
Provides organic Nitrogen combined with Calcium and Magnesium and L-Amino Acids that stimulate plant development
100% water soluble and leaves no residue
Combines Calcium (Ca) and Magnesium (Mg) with L-Amino Acids to eliminate deficiencies
High bioavailability
Improves structure and firmness of the flower and fruit
Provides the extra boost plants need during certain plant development phases
MassBoost Contains
Organic Nitrogen (N)
Calcium (Ca)
Magnesium (Mg)
L-Amino Acids
How MassBoost Works
Aids in plant structure and photosynthesis
Improves structure and firmness of fruits and flowers
Stimulates fruit set and floral development
Activates enzymatic activity
Higher levels of Ca and Mg help raise internal plant pH to resist fungal attacks
Tips from Expert Growers
Use MassBoost in combination with PeakBoost & FinaleBoost in the last weeks to get maximum weight.
Pay attention when you mix PeakBoost and MassBoost as they can react together. Always add one, dilute and mix then the other. In case you use a lot of Phosphorous based products, then take care when adding MassBoost since Phosphorous and Calcium mixed together in high concentrations may cause deposits and residues.
If using reverse osmosis water (RO), it's a good idea to supplement with a small amount of a cheap CaMg product during vegetative growth. Never use MassBoost at the same feeding with another CaMg product.
MassBoost at full strength may be a bit harsh on young or weak plants. Take care when using during the vegetative and early bloom stages, using 0.5-1 ml per gallon. Especially if your base nutrient has high salt content, you won't need full strength MassBoost until week 5 of bloom.
Many growers find that once per week usage is plenty to see good results.
S
SeaMaiden
Oooh... what was I saying however many pages back about the possibility of resistance? Sarek, I hope folks don't start coming at you just because you're discussing it. But to me it's been a very real possibility for quite a while and the chances increase the longer people continue to use only the one product.
Single site mode of action cides are known to cause resistance. And that's just the start.
Single site mode of action cides are known to cause resistance. And that's just the start.
Burning Tree
Member
Have you disinfected the entire grow space? Physan20 or bleach preferably the first? You can keep treating it will keep coming back late flower if you do not remove the spores from the environment and once you see it late flower you hav billions of new spores to infect the stuff you just sprayed in about 45 days.
Clean the room or you will keep chasing your tail. Rotate with something as effective as myclo. I would recommend Quadris.
sheik_yerbouti
Member
Has anyone been able to get Eagle 20 in Canada? Can't seem to find it and a few ebay dealers have turned me down.
can you get Immonux at your home depot? in the lawn spray area.
sheik_yerbouti
Member
I'll look into it. How comparable is it to eagle 20? Have you or known guys to use it to get rid of PM?
Burning Tree
Member
You may be able to get Systhane from Dow in the great white north.
as a shop owner I hate to say this but ebay is the likely the only way, just be sure to have the vendor ship USPS only
C
c-ray
a product is only one part of a puzzle
start by buying a refractometer and some hydrion pH 5.5-8.0 tape and see what they say
I bought both for 40 bucks total, so there is really no excuse for any serious grower not to know what their plants sap brix and pH are doing..
these are the tools we need to get off the poisons and start growing the highest quality food and medicine ever
welcome to the future
Y
YosemiteSam
This is how you prevent PM with zero chem intervention
A sap pH of 6.4 which is a result of achieving Albrecht ratios. Good luck achieving it with any bottled nute on the market today
A sap pH of 6.4 which is a result of achieving Albrecht ratios. Good luck achieving it with any bottled nute on the market today
Immunox is 2% myclobutanil while e-20 is 20%. It works but pm will come right back if you don't deal with the root causes of the problem.
vertigo0007
Member
5 people vs. thousands. Hmmmmm
Burning Tree
Member
Come on YS! Can you really say sap pH alone will prevent plants from being infected by PM? If a PM infected clone was brought into your enclosed grow environment none of your stock would become infected?
I agree it MAY be one part of an overall whole but is not a silver bullet. And neither is E20 for that matter.
vertigo0007
Member
when you have a consitently filthy environment, nothing will work.
Y
YosemiteSam
Give it a shot, find out for yourself. In the mean time why would you bring an infected clone into your grow area...quarantine everything until you have cloned the clone.
C
c-ray
S
SeaMaiden
Are you suggesting that my environment is filthy, or that those who consistently experience problems have a filthy environment? Either way, I agree with the statement in a general sense. I would not agree that mine is a filthy environment (my indoor area).
In the meantime, how 'filthy' is it outside? How would one address the 'problem' outdoors? What would *you* do if you observed PM in 30% RH and in full sun?
I hit it with JMS Stylet oil and give a foliar tea of some sort, look toward improving total plant health.
I still can't figure out why I see PM on summer squashes only in late summer, usually August, irrespective of RH or rain. Two years ago we had no rain, yet the yellow crookneck showed PM. Last year I grew only winter squashes--no PM.
