The LED Company I've Been Waiting For

[PetFlora]

For DIYers this could be a big deal

Thermal pad equivalent of grease

http://www.electronicproducts.com/T...mal_interface_material_performs_like_gel.aspx

Edit Plus these run at 50-60w

http://www.amazon.com/Zitrades-Whit...sbs_hi_40?ie=UTF8&refRID=1VES8EB1KAYA6GN9TK54

 

[PetFlora]

No pictures but this could be helpful- led holders in various voltages

http://www.te.com/catalog/products/en?n ... ed+holders

 

[Dr.Nonagon]

do you mean like this?

http://parts.arrow.com/item/detail/molex/1807200001#EnRFhttp://

 

[PetFlora]

Electronic Magazine Gold- Plated contacts + virgin plastic led holders full page adv www.memoryprotectiondevices.com​

 

[PetFlora]

BML shipped me 2 x 3ft rails mostly 2700/3000 + 3 @ 660 + 2 @ 450

Will be adding them to my 2 ufo 90s (3500/5000). This combination is kickin it for veg.

Plants only 3 weeks from cotyledon

 

[sammyz2646]

Pick a forum fluff ball

I heard Home Depot has a sale on 10 watt warm whites, surprised you could afford the BML

(Gosh, is it OK if I talk in here?!)

 

[sammyz2646]

Did I mention that I am going to build a DIY LED with a CXA 3050

 

[PetFlora]

As long as you continue to be a jerk, no one will pay any attention to you. You sure seem desperate for it.

You have brought nothing to my thread, including your last 2 posts

Go away

Pick a forum fluff ball

I heard Home Depot has a sale on 10 watt warm whites, surprised you could afford the BML

(Gosh, is it OK if I talk in here?!)

 

[sammyz2646]

Just getting settled in, hang on. . . . .

 

[sammyz2646]

-quote-Hey guys, would you mind keeping the DIY stuff to a minimum?
This is a thread about BML- quote by PetFlora


Next time the discussion isn't "going your way", my friend,
consider your attempt to "correct " the subject or discussion a bit longer before you spout off.

We were having a useful, pertinent discussion in the proper context and certainly in the right area. Nobody cares who's silly thread it is, except you

 

[PetFlora]

Really?

Scroll down the page. other than you (and me trying to get rid of you), only 2 others have said anything;

bevo once and Dr N twice.

Proof that no one is interested in what you have to say. Now go away

-quote-Hey guys, would you mind keeping the DIY stuff to a minimum?
This is a thread about BML- quote by PetFlora


Next time the discussion isn't "going your way", my friend,
consider your attempt to "correct " the subject or discussion a bit longer before you spout off.

We were having a useful, pertinent discussion in the proper context and certainly in the right area. Nobody cares who's silly thread it is, except you

 

[PetFlora]

One Spydr for Veg & Flower

One Spydr for Veg & Flower

Nick (BML) asked what spectrums for my Spydr 600. Keep in mind Spydrs stock spectrums are not specifically for mj>

'will try to simplify for you, but condensing mj growth stages into a few paragraphs is tough


Basically, medical marijuana (mj) has 2 distinct grow cycles (veg and flower), with distinct lighting requirements for each

Young plants (being small) are kept close together. The number of mature plants to fill a 4 x 4 tent will start out occupying ~ 2 x 2 area, and only require ~ 250w of light @ 4500K

If individual bars can be turned off, then one light can accommodate both phases for most 4 x 4 personal use growers needs

If we configure a Spydr 600 spectrums to handle both veg and flower cycles, then Spydrs should fly out the door.

Bigger operations will likely by multiple 600s, but buy individual Spydrs for veg and flower

FYI, Area 51 led lights have 2 o/o switches for this purpose

Simply, 3-4/6 bars will be used for the veg through pre-flower cycle, 2/6 to be used for bud set- harvest

The overall spectrum balance depends on whether individual bars have an o/o switch.

I saw what looked like a dimmer. Is that standard on each bar?

Also, we want a minimal overlap of the individual diode’s spectral chart for CW- NW-WW diodes to maintain proper ratios.

VEG: 3-4 bars

The mj vegetative stage is comparable to any fruiting plant. The focus during veg is on main stem, branches, leaf and internode development, from where bud sites develop

This stage requires mostly blue-yellow green with ~ 25% WW (3000-3500k) for an overall kelvin of ~ 4300-4500k.

I am having excellent results using a combination of 2 @ 90w 3500/5000k. Adding ~ 5% CW @ ~ 6500k/450 would be a plus

Again,3- 4 bars to cover the vegetative stage through pre-flower

Today, I added ~ 36 WW led 1 x 4 panel (removed the diffuser), designed for soft ceiling lighting, as plants are 30 days old, ready to flip to pre-flower stage. This is a band-aid. I will replace it with the 2 bars once they get here. Any word on when they will ship?

Flower: In the flower stage there are 2 parts-

1. Pre-flower through to bud set (~ 3-4 weeks)
2. Bud fattening through harvest.

Upon bud set, we want to add ~ 30% more 3000-2700 (2 bars). It would be awesome if that can be done by simply flipping the on switch of 2 bars, each consisting of ~ 80% @ 3000K + 20% @ 2700k, where the 2700 has a nice 660 bump. I added 3 to my bars just because some believe it is essential.

With all 6 bars on during flower stage we should have ~ 15% blue (4000-6500, where < 10% is 6500)+ ~ 40% NW + ~30% 3000K + ~ 15% 2700k

So, a mix of CW + NW + WW, where ~ half the WW (2 bars) can be introduced once buds (fruit) set.

The extra red at that time is to fatten up the buds and increase trichomes; the sticky part, which can be either CBD or THC, depending on the strain

Hope I haven’t boggled your mind'

 

[PetFlora]

Confirmatin my Order is Being Processed by Serious Professionals

Confirmatin my Order is Being Processed by Serious Professionals

Received this a while ago. Now, more than ever I am excited



Greetings from Austin Texas!

Your order is now on our build schedule and I thought you might like to know a little about the way we build each fixture.

We use a combination of state-of-the-art robotic equipment combined with hand assembly to create each fixture. My associates and I start with one 12” printed circuit board for each 12” of fixture (nano fixtures use 7” boards). We build the LED board from scratch using a robotic assembly machine to place the combination of LED colors you’ve selected onto each circuit board. Once the LEDs are positioned on the circuit board they are slowly run through an oven that gradually heats the boards from 75 to 465 degrees Fahrenheit. This melts the solder evenly and permanently fuses the LEDs to the circuit board.

When they cool we check them by eye for obvious problems and electrically test each LED board to make sure they are performing properly. Once everything looks good, we begin the assembly process. Up to this point, we have spent about an hour working on your fixture.

Once the LED board is assembled, the rest of the building process is done by hand. We start by mounting the LED circuit boards into the aluminum fixture case. We’ll wire the system, check and secure the connections and align our highly reflective optical system. We then install your selected lens onto the fixture and seal it to protect the fixture from water damage. End caps are added and the fixture is then ready to bench test.

First, each fixture (and the power supply that will ship with it) is plugged in and tested for at least 4 hours -- we call this the “burn-in” process. If there is a bad LED it will fail within a few minutes but we also want to make sure we catch any short circuits or poor connections that we missed in our earlier visual inspection. It is also a final test of the power supply. We use hand-held laser scanner that quickly reads temperature with tremendous precision. We run the laser along the fixture looking for warm or cool areas -- a sign that something is not right. If we find an area with a temperature variation greater than +/- 4 degrees F, we assume there is a problem and the fixture is scrapped.

After the Burn-In test is complete, we test the dimming function of the fixture. If you ordered a dimmer, we test using your dimmer, if not we use a test dimmer. We want to make sure the LEDs dim properly: if they don’t dim, there is something wrong with the LEDs or the Power Supply.

While all of these steps take time, we very, very seldom find problems and our goal is to make sure each fixture is 100% trouble free and ready to go to work.

As you can see, we don’t just take a mass-produced fixture off a shelf and send it out -- we truly build each one to order and this takes time. I estimate that your order will ship in the next 2-3 days. You will get an update when it ships or if there is going to be a delay.


Thank you for ordering from us -- I know you won’t be disappointed!

The Operations Team from Build My LED, LLc.

www.buildmyled.com

 

[PetFlora]

I Think I Earned my Keep Today

I Think I Earned my Keep Today

Since $999 is a lot of money for many, designing the Spydr 600 so it is great for both vegging and flowering makes it a worthwhile investment.

I think I figured out how!

FYI: Laying it out with this all-in-one mindset helped me realize that cutting the spine to 2 ft should not be necessary for > 95% of your customers, as long as their grow space is a minimum of 3ft wide. If the space 3 x 2, they buy it with 2ft bars UNLESS the Spydr is only available with 3ft bars

Using my latest report (not sending it just yet,) but I think I am > 90% there...

During the veg stage (when young plants are small in size and girth) keeping bars close the center ~ the 2 middle bars should provide ~ 4500k. This produces a sturdy plant with good internodal spacing, and a strong main stalk.

6500k controls stretch, but too much makes the plant too short and squat. Mixing it with warmer colors to achieve ~ 4500 over the young plants also enhances root development. That’s my spectrum now. I use it all the way into bud set, then add ~ 40% more reds (3000-2700), which the 2 supplemental bars arriving Saturday are designed for

During veg, the Spydr’s 6 bars outside edge might be 18” total, covering up to 12 plants. 4 middle bars averaging ~4500k should handle that nicely

Conversely, too much red during veg causes stretch, which makes for a weaker main stalk and long side branching. This becomes a problem once buds start fattening up. Branches are known to snap under the weight of not so big buds.

I had to incorporate a cube system to tie long branches up during bud development, because I used too much red to soon

During the flower stage is when MJ needs lots of 2700-3000. As the mature plant is many times bigger than it is during the vegetative stage, much of the plant will then be under the 2 outer bars on each side, even when bars are spread to their max distance.

However, during full flower, even with a strong umol/^sec between 3-4 ft from center, one will have a max of 4 plants; 3 in a 2 x 4 tent, My experience is 2 max in a 2 x 4 using 432w hot5 (8 bulb Quantum Bad Boy).

Mature plant size also depends on the plant’s genetics. After several years, I find 432w does not allow a plant to reach its’ maximum potential

So if a Spydr is the equivalent of 600w then it should be awesome up to 3 x 3. If it will equally handle a 4 x 4 that’s 1000w territory, and a game changer for the price. It could almost be sold on the energy savings alone

Tilting bars is a huge plus

The ability to tilt the bars (especially during veg) is a major plus. Even though the Spydr bars don’t have dimmers or individual o/o switches, since the outer bars can be tilted i/o means the outer bars can be tilted away during the veg stage, then titled inward for the flower stage

It sure sounds good on paper


I’m very excited to report on this in action

Stay tuned folks

 

[PetFlora]

I just added 2 @ 3ft BML light bars to my LED tent

Effectively doubling the wattage

They are BRIGHT, so I will keep an eye on distance to avoid bleaching

Go to my Multi-spectrum grow thread to follow along

I had selected the layout for my Spydr 600, but after seeing the bars in action, I need to rethink it a bit

Since taking the pics I repositioned the bars

 

[3dDream]

PetFlora, is it just 1w or 3w leds in a strip? How are these better than the old UFO LEDs? The mount/tilt makes it better?

 

[PetFlora]

3w

Not all...
* diodes are created equal
* mpcbs are created equal
* heat sinks are created equal

junction materials that adhere diode to heat sink are typically cheap and poorly assembled

I suggest you spend some time on their website and/or do a YT search for their promo videos

PetFlora, is it just 1w or 3w leds in a strip? How are these better than the old UFO LEDs? The mount/tilt makes it better?

 

[PetFlora]

I just sent this to BML:

I was confused by the BML Custom template

I thought of it as being divided into thirds, as I ordered 3ft bars, I expected the 12” template to be spread out to accommodate various lengths (in my case 3ft)?


Instead the initial spectrums chosen on the 12” template/bar is simply multiplied by the number of feet

Consequently, my bars have 3 times the 450/660 than I was expecting

They should still work, and possibly quite well, but...

I anticipate lots of negative feedback from my thread followers, as I am a huge promoter of 3000/2700 for flowering

I only added 2 @ 450 and 3 @ 660 per bar just to cover all bases, but in my mind they were going to be placed far apart

Instead each bar has 6 @ 450 + 9 @ 660 per bar

Example

For the Spydr 600 to be an effective multi-purpose light, the middle section (vegetative stage) should be 5000/3500, the 2 outside sections (used during flower stage) mirror images of 3000/2700

Hopefully when the Spydr page is created it can be designed this way

 

[PetFlora]

SPYDR 600 411

SPYDR 600 411

The SPYDR 600​

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LED lighting system uses an amazing ​

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50% less electricity to deliver the same light level as 600W High ​

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Pressure Sodium lights (HPS). Due to an innovative optical ​

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system

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SPYDR 600​

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can provide the same PPFD ​

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(PAR) levels as 1000W HPS and Metal Halide (MH) fixtures in ​

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many greenhouse applications.

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SPYDR 600​

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uses abreakthrough optical engineering design that allows you to focus the light directly towards your plants. ​

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Six industrial grade, 3-foot long, high power LED light bars are ​

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arrayed on a rugged rack that allows tool-free adjustment of each fixture for light concentration and maximum radiation capture on your plants. Since we spread the LEDs evenly over the 36" x 36" ​

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fixture design

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SPYDR 600​

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delivers light in a more uniform coverage pattern compared to any other LED fixture on the market. When the bars are centered in the fixture to achieve max PAR levels, you can expect PPFD readings of up to 2100 μmol/m2/s ​

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at a 12" mounting height!​

​

 

[PetFlora]

Does the hype meet the pavement... where the rubber meet the road?

So far so good

In just 3 days there is a lot of inter-nodal growth + all leafs are reaching up toward the light above the canopy

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