Just wondering- Why woukd you want to increase Lumen output at the expense of PAR output?
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The LED Company I've Been Waiting For
- Thread starter PetFlora
- Start date
Just wondering- Why woukd you want to increase Lumen output at the expense of PAR output?
Smoking Lamp
Member
I think they are alluding to just the basic fact that they feel comfortable that PAR isn't dropping with increased lumens and CRI, which is fine, but......I wouldn't use Lumens and CRI as an indicator or anything.
They are photometric measurements which are Biased. The Color quality scale is an improvement of CRI, but CRI lacks qualitative measurement badly.
Just don't use either one if you can. I realize that it is nice to compare to get an idea but ideally even lumens per watt means shit if the spectral frequency is dogshit to begin with aka 660 vs 630 or 460 vs 440 etc etc etc
That's what research has led me to conclude as well. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something.
morgandecaptain
Active member
Hey Pet, it's captainmorgan.Do you hang here much? Any word on how long RIU will be down?
Wassup
Good to see you here
IC was my first emag/forum
Done lots of threads/journals here
No idea how long they will be down
Com y my other thread
This one is in quite mode until I get lights from BML
FYI peeps, CM did an amazing grow using only CREE household globes. Best I've seen
Good to see you here
IC was my first emag/forum
Done lots of threads/journals here
No idea how long they will be down
Com y my other thread
This one is in quite mode until I get lights from BML
FYI peeps, CM did an amazing grow using only CREE household globes. Best I've seen
morgandecaptain
Active member
The LED section here seems kinda quiet.
They all moved on to CMH's. 
j/k
j/k
morgandecaptain
Active member
I'm looking to upgrade my large cabinet and can't decide if I want to go CMH or a CXA3070 30H Z4 build.
FranJan
Active member
That's cause they don't let little dickheads, (like me), run crazy around here like some other forums do
. Wassap Cap'n and PetFlora?
It was on IC that I cut my teeth learning about LEDs. I got the following 411 (date: 5/12), which you have seen me c/p many times
Alas, he and virtually all the others vanished not long thereafter. In fact, this contributor never posted again, but he said it all so clearly to my ignorant ass (I had already bought a R/B ufo 90 POS) that I began my WHITE crusade
As one can see, the CREE Neutral White (I call it 'Goldilocks', because it's almost 'just right'
) has a RSPD that still allows nearly ~25% of its total power in the blue range (and plants only really 'need' ~8-10%), and more that 1/3 of which (i.e. the area under the curve) is over ~580nm or so (which has a Photosynthetic RS of over 90%!) - which is much better than even your typical 'Enhanced HPS'.
Couple that with strong white light (green-response chlorophyll extending throughout and deep into leaf structures, with a net effect at or near that of the (mostly) surface-level blue and reds), which also takes care of most of the ~660nm+ you actually need for photomorphogenesis - and you can get by with 630nm reds just fine.
(i.e. 630nm red is ~95% of the PSR of 660nm, AND they currently still have ~20-30% greater radiometric efficiency - as well as being cheaper than the deep reds - so there's more 'bang for the buck'):
Alas, he and virtually all the others vanished not long thereafter. In fact, this contributor never posted again, but he said it all so clearly to my ignorant ass (I had already bought a R/B ufo 90 POS) that I began my WHITE crusade
As one can see, the CREE Neutral White (I call it 'Goldilocks', because it's almost 'just right'
Couple that with strong white light (green-response chlorophyll extending throughout and deep into leaf structures, with a net effect at or near that of the (mostly) surface-level blue and reds), which also takes care of most of the ~660nm+ you actually need for photomorphogenesis - and you can get by with 630nm reds just fine.
(i.e. 630nm red is ~95% of the PSR of 660nm, AND they currently still have ~20-30% greater radiometric efficiency - as well as being cheaper than the deep reds - so there's more 'bang for the buck'):
Knowing the AMAZING result you had with CREE A19s, I would love to see you do the LED COBs, and do a thread here on IC.
I think it might kick start interest
Here's a DIY that looks awesome, though I would have moved the drivers outboard. Scroll ~ half way down, past the tutorial . Don't know when he posted, but he has not updated.
Don't bother to sign up. Biggest bunch of stupid stoners I've some across to date
http://howtogrowmarijuana.com/DIY-LED-grow-light
I think it might kick start interest
Here's a DIY that looks awesome, though I would have moved the drivers outboard. Scroll ~ half way down, past the tutorial . Don't know when he posted, but he has not updated.
Don't bother to sign up. Biggest bunch of stupid stoners I've some across to date
http://howtogrowmarijuana.com/DIY-LED-grow-light
morgandecaptain
Active member
That's cause they don't let little dickheads, (like me), run crazy around here like some other forums do
uh oh,frog alert.
PAR peaks have been misinterpreted by most LED grow light designers/manufacturers. While that will work for flower, what about veg?
When CW/NW (depending on their spectral symbiosis) and WW are combined, the end result provides all the spectrums (and in close enough ratios) mj needs to produce an outstanding product, PLUS, whites being uniform are more stable, and will last a lot longer
Individual red diodes tend to lose intensity and output much sooner than whites. The current issue of LED Magazine compared a new reddish chip v same chip after just 5000 hour. The color was unrecognizable to the new one!
When CW/NW (depending on their spectral symbiosis) and WW are combined, the end result provides all the spectrums (and in close enough ratios) mj needs to produce an outstanding product, PLUS, whites being uniform are more stable, and will last a lot longer
Individual red diodes tend to lose intensity and output much sooner than whites. The current issue of LED Magazine compared a new reddish chip v same chip after just 5000 hour. The color was unrecognizable to the new one!
sammyz2646
Member
Thank you Bevo, I appreciate you sharing this photo, as it is impossible to get this perspective from BML's webpage, much appreciated!
sammyz2646
Member
Nice choice, I see you did your homework. Having said that, its fantastic to see someone who can use this specifically with our favorite plant, and can report back on the growth results you experience with these 2 fixtures.
What were you using for light prior to using the Spyder's? For my comparison
What were you using for light prior to using the Spyder's? For my comparison
If BML provided an o/o switch on each rail then one Spyder would be fine for both veg and flower
