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*The K.I.S.S. Method*

LoneWolf424

New member
So I ran across this. I think it sums it, but to note I LOVE great white and plant success, as he's kinda dogin' em. Havin trouble quoting from diferent forum Its from Spurr and its in the ammend w micro vs not.

Spurr:
I just wanted to drop in real fast and post up some facts about AM fungi ("Arbuscular Mycorrhizal" fungi, a type of endomycorrhizal fungi), formally called VAM ("Vesicular-Arbuscular Mycorrhiza"). I noticed quite of few misconceptions in this thread and I hope to help provide a few corrections and insight. AM fungi are greatly misunderstood and misrepresented by most companies selling AM fungi. I think some of the points below may affect this thread in a positive manner:


1. P at the level of > 30 ppm P (not P2O5) greatly hinders AM fungi. Once P exceeds ~30-35 ppm sporulation is greatly hindered (pretty much stops), as well as infection of host roots and growth of "mycosphere" (re "extraradical mycelium"). Thus, if a conventional grower is using the Lucas formula, or anything with > ~30 ppm P, or if the soilless solution accrues > 30-35 ppm, AM fungi are not going to help the plant.


2. Once P levels are high enough (i.e., sufficient, at least ~20-30 ppm), the plant will reduce the 'food' (sugars) it gives to the AM fungi. This is because the plant doesn't need the AM fungi any longer because the plant has sufficient P. When the plant stops feeding the AM fungi, the AM fungi are greatly hindered ...


3. AM fungi are "fungi imperfecti", not "fungi perfecti". That means AM fungi (and any endomycorrhizal fungi) do not form fruit bodies, that is, they do not form mushrooms. So, if a grower sees fungi fruiting (producing mushrooms) it isn't from any type of AM fungi or other endomycorrhizal fungi.


4. Many spores in a commercial freeze-dried spore product will not germinate, and in fact, Dr. David Douds Ph.D. (a renown AM fungi researcher) told me on the phone that many of the commercial AM fungi products he tested had little to no germination! (all AM fungi products one can by online or at a store are freeze dried spores)


5. Many AM fungi products also include Trichomera spp., another type of fungi. However, Trichoderma spp. is a parasitic fungi, and there is strong evidence it will 'consume' AM fungi as spores and young hyphae, as well as mycelium. This isn't so much of a problem if Trichodram spp. is added after AM fungi has started infecting the host roots. The moral is, do not buy AM fungi product that has Trichoderma spp., if it can be avoided.


6. It takes at least a couple of weeks for AM fungi spores to germinate and start infecting host roots. Thus, if a grower adds Plant Success, even *if* the spores germinate (which is far from guaranteed) it will be at least 3-4 weeks until the host has been infected to a sufficient degree (ex., > 15-20% of root biomass-length). I have grown AM fungi many times using Bahia grass as host and a vermiculte/compost or vermiclute/vermicompost medium; I have used my microscope to that end.


7. Increased Co2 in media will increase growth rates of many AM fungi ...


8. I dislike Dr. Mike Amaranthus Ph.D business practices, from http://www.mycorrhizae.com/. Dr. Amaranthus's company is the source of AM fungi for Great White (i.e., Plant Success), and other brands selling AM fungi products in hydro stores. I dislike Dr. Amaranthus's business because I believe he is being disingenuous with some products he is selling, e.g., inclusion of Trichoderma spp. while refusing to show me data proving their tests found Trichoderma spp. did not hinder AM fungi and instead help AM fungi. Not only that, but by inferring his company produces their own products, which is false according to a good friend of mine* he is further being disingenuous.

* My good friend told me a contact he has at Premier (the peat moss company), told him Premier sells Dr. Amaranthus all Dr. Amaranthus's AM fungi products wholesale, and Dr. Amaranthus simply re-packages.

9. Addition of humic acid, yucca, glycine, carbs, etc., to AM fungi products does not help AM fungi; it's not 'food' for AM fungi. It's just fluff to make a person think they are getting a 'better' product.


10. It's not possible to know if, and to what degree, AM fungi may have infected host roots without (slightly) complicated root staining and "arbuscule" identification inside said root(s). See the following pages for assay guides, the most common assay for root infection (aka "association") is MIP ("Mean Infection Percentage"). One method a grower could use to see if the host is infected is to look at the root(s) under a microscope to see if hyphae are extruding from the root; however, that isn't the best method because it doesn't identify arbuscles inside the roots:

(assay explanations) http://invam.caf.wvu.edu/methods/assays/assayindex.htm
http://invam.caf.wvu.edu/methods/myc...ycorrindex.htm
http://mycorrhizas.info/method.html


11. Here are a few good sources of sound science on AM fungi, further reading if anyone is interested:

International Culture Collection of (Vesicular) Arbuscular Mycorrhizal Fungi: link (this is where I tend to get live cultures)
Mycorrhizal Associations: The Web Resource: link
Mycorrhiza Literature Exchange: link



12. Here are two worthwhile reads from INVAM:

"Culture methods and inoculum production: A reality check"
INVAM, Newsletter Vol. 4, No. 2; September, 1994
http://invam.caf.wvu.edu/otherinfo/a.../culturing.htm

"The relationship between colonization and sporulation as affected by environment and competition"
INVAM Newsletter Vol. 2, No. 2
http://invam.caf.wvu.edu/otherinfo/a...ompetition.htm

So, what does that all mean you may ask:

It means in most cases for indoor growers, especially for conventional growers, AM fungi is not going to infect host roots (or will not infect to a worthwhile degree). That means I highly doubt this side by side thread is going to give useful data or evidence, even though I commend SKAGITMAGIC on the thread idea. I think this side by side could/should be conducted differently to get useable data/results.
 

Carver

Member
So I just started vegging using the kiss method, I am getting some nitrogen def. as lower leaves are yellowing quick like over night. I fed full strength 1tsp per gal with 2ml of silica blast. Question is is this normal? What could be going wrong?
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
Depending on the strength of your lights.... you may need to back off a bit. Most likely you're not seeing a nitrogen deficiency that fast... you're seeing overfeeding.

The amount of nutrients a plant requires depends mainly on light intensity, humidity, temperature, and CO2 (Air quality). Too cold, less nutes. Less than 50wpsqft, less nutes. Lower humidity, less nutes. Get the picture?

With cannabis.... less is more. You'll always grow a better, danker plant by underfeeding slightly than any amount of overfeeding. :D

Stay Safe! :blowbubbles:
 
D

dramamine

Waaaaaaaaay too much nitrogen. If you're going for stretchy, leafy, stemmy.... MaxiGrow is perfect! :D


I have to disagree with this. Not that I use MaxiGrow or anything, but that's far from too much nitrogen.:tiphat:

Also, I doubt overfeeding would cause yellow leaves overnight. Usually you would see some twisting or burnt tips first. Sounds like N deficiency to me. Occam's Razor, dude.
 

LoneWolf424

New member
Depending on the strength of your lights.... you may need to back off a bit. Most likely you're not seeing a nitrogen deficiency that fast... you're seeing overfeeding.

The amount of nutrients a plant requires depends mainly on light intensity, humidity, temperature, and CO2 (Air quality). Too cold, less nutes. Less than 50wpsqft, less nutes. Lower humidity, less nutes. Get the picture?

With cannabis.... less is more. You'll always grow a better, danker plant by underfeeding slightly than any amount of overfeeding. :D

Stay Safe! :blowbubbles:


:good::good:
 

Hydro-Soil

Active member
Veteran
I have to disagree with this. Not that I use MaxiGrow or anything, but that's far from too much nitrogen.:tiphat:
At 4grams, no.... but 4 grams doesn't grow vigorous plants in flower, only veg. When you up the amount to keep things balanced... the nitrogen ends up being too high.

Maxigrow is for growing large stretchy plants... Big plants need open spaces to allow airflow and require more nitrogen, calcium and Magnesium than smaller plants. Even then you'll STILL want to switch to MaxiBloom for flower.

For the same price... way better quality cannabis can be grown with a bag of Maxibloom in both veg and bloom. Again, no need for Maxigrow at all unless you're vegging large plants.

Stay Safe! :blowbubbles:

p.s. The yellowing overnight most likely didn't have anything to do with what was watered the day before. I've also seen plants that didn't show nute tip-burn before yellowing leaves when over fed. Go figure.
 
'Tis the method I use. 1/2 tsp/gal of powder KB for the last 4 days before final two week flush.
I'm an avid user of the K.I.S.S. method. My whole entire grow, and I mean from seedling 'til end of flower flush, gets 1 tsp/gal of Maxibloom. Period.
Everything in my album/old gallery (with the exception of my early soil days)was grown with said 1 tsp/gal of Maxibloom.
I did a whole grow log in Mosca's forum with his C99BX, all Maxibloom.
I may be leaving a few grams by not using a bunch of additives but for shear simplicity and cost, Maxibloom cannot be beat.
A $15 bag of Maxibloom last's me two 60 day flower runs...:)

*EDIT* Just wanted to add; I grow in coco but have a few moms in Rockwool blocks and I can verify that Maxibloom plays VERY well with rockwool. Also, a good buddy uses Maxibloom on ebb/flow tables and all is fantastic!
so you are saying 1/2tsp every time you feed you never up the does from seedling to flower . its always the same dose ? you never go by PPm ?
 
G

Guest 18340

The 1/2 tsp was for Powder Koolbloom. (I have since dropped that to 1/4 tsp)
For Maxibloom it's 1 tsp/gal.
**Mind you, a tsp is supposed to be 5 grams so weigh one out first. Some spoons I have give me 7 grams others need a slight mound to equal 7 grams**
 

someotherguy

Active member
Veteran
so you are saying 1/2tsp every time you feed you never up the does from seedling to flower . its always the same dose ? you never go by PPm ?
...no offense dude but if you'd actually READ the post you quoted you'd have found the answers you were looking for.

SOG
 

Maj.Cottonmouth

We are Farmers
Veteran
I was wondering if any of the other KISS heads here are doing RDWC with tap water and using a BlueLab truncheon. If so what EC reading do you get when adding 1 teaspoon per gallon of tap water using the provided measuring spoon. Mine ends up right at 1.6 EC and I think I may need to bump that up higher.
 

Bio boy

Active member
crazy... does anyone have a breakdown of the individual %ages and mgs of each compound and element added into both as i use lucas.... and im not sure i believe this much lol it seems weird
 

Meaty

Member
The pictures don't do the buds justice (or maybe it's my shitty camera/photo skills). I would just like to say that I am KISS for life!

Pic 1 a jar shot, pic 2 is the mastodon kush, pic 3 is power kush, pics 4 and 5 are both strains with and without flash. The last 2 are my best attempt at a macro shot. Damn 5 megapixel camera!

I would also like to add that anyone who says weed grown with chemicals doesn't taste as good as organics doesn't know how to flush, because this stuff smells and tastes magnificent
 

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perismoke

Member
I absolutely love how the 7 grams of MB drops my tapwater to 5.7-5.9.....and there Silica blast in a dropper bottle if it gets lower than that...super simple and stress free..allow for more time to admire the girls..Mosca's C99 BX..
 
G

Guest 18340

Imo, it looks to me that you weren't feeding them enough earlier on but they seem fine now.
I always feed, full strength, right from rooted clone.
*EDIT* How big are they? May be time to transplant them:chin:
 
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