The growing large plants, outdoors, thread...

[bigherb]

there's a guy in waikoloa who has a plant called elephant ear that lived 15 yrs ...or thats the story ,never seen it

Ive recently started a thread in relation to this discussion that started here , i didnt want to go off topic n stiil dont

As you said thats the story ,we have heard several . It be great to have someone who can document an post about one of these plants


Much Respect to all the Monsters growers this thread is inspiring an all info an experiences are appreciated



1luvbigherb

 

[Yes4Prop215]

what are most of you guys doing with your used soil from last year? to prep them for next season, mine have been sitting out in the rain, dumped some enzymes in them to eat the old roots up but other than that pretty baffled. tempted to totally ditch the old soil and use new on a few pots, and then amend the others. i just want to make sure any root rot of fungal diseases arent in the soil that will lead to an early end to my season.

 

[MelloYello]

what are most of you guys doing with your used soil from last year? to prep them for next season, mine have been sitting out in the rain, dumped some enzymes in them to eat the old roots up but other than that pretty baffled. tempted to totally ditch the old soil and use new on a few pots, and then amend the others. i just want to make sure any root rot of fungal diseases arent in the soil that will lead to an early end to my season.

A few redworms in each container. Leave the roots, they will be turned into EWC.

 

[ClearBarbedFunk]

CBF, if you can at all, consider using peat to basically filter the water, making it softer and less alkaline. Or, use it in that mix to accomplish the same effect. I used to use peat as a filtration media for very delicate South American fishes, and I know it works great. Do you have to have water delivered, or are you using irrigation water? I don't mess with the irrigation water at all, only address the soil.

last season i had resevoirs i mixed up tap water in. which was a pain really. the tap water and irriagation water is the same here ph wise, just the tap has the chlorine in it which i let the water air in the resevoirs before mixin.

also i was hand waterin everything last year and im not up for that this year, i just want to hook up the hose to the irrigation lines and go. hehe

 

[OrganicBuds]

what are most of you guys doing with your used soil from last year? to prep them for next season, mine have been sitting out in the rain, dumped some enzymes in them to eat the old roots up but other than that pretty baffled. tempted to totally ditch the old soil and use new on a few pots, and then amend the others. i just want to make sure any root rot of fungal diseases arent in the soil that will lead to an early end to my season.

I would add worms like stated, that sounds like a great idea. Also, get your soil tested to see what you need to add. I have a fantastic recipe for re-ammending soil if you want to PM me.

 

[SeaMaiden]

Nice to hear there are some big plans out there. We always see what they look like when they are big, since that's what this thread is about, but where do they start?

The folks who really have their shit dialed in began late last year and are growing out their clones for this year, getting them nice and big. Aim for 3'-4' at least by the time you put them out. Bigger if possible.

What does your garden look like this time of year?

Shit.

What do your plants look like up until transplanting outside?

Normally pretty good.

When do people start prepping soil?

At the end of the last season, or, ASAP.

How do YOU prep your soil?

Take down the cover crops, get them incorporated. Throw on some more compost and rock dusts, then throw in more cover crops (they keep my mycorrhizae alive, along with other soil biology), let them grow as they will, then take them down and incorporate into the soil again.

If you get soil tests, how comprehensive is the test?

Depends on the test! I have been saying for years I need to do it, haven't done it. Don't like the company my county ag extension sent me to as they're only interested in the usual-usual NPK paradigm.

How do you determine what amendments to add and how much?

Uh oh... I determine much like how I cook. I watch, then decide. If I see problems, I go from there. The cover crops look pretty fabulous, so I'm leavin' it for now.

Sorry when I started typing i did not mean to type all that but I'm a newb w/ lots a questions. Also not directly asking just your opinion but would like other big hitters out there speak up so we can gain some insight on what it take to prep for these monsters. Have lots more questions but i can wait until later in the season to ask those.

You'll have LOTS more questions, I promise.

I disagree for me personally. I started my beans this time last year and had early flowering issues when I put them out. I had my light schedual down to 14h light, and really made an effort not to stress them out with any changes when putting them outdoors. I think the perfect time to pop your beans is mid to late march, have them all sexed and ready for transplants into mounds/smart pots by May 1st. I find the most important thing about growing large plants is VIGOR. Without constant vigor the plants will not produce the same. Leaving plants under floresents or some other less than desirable enviorment before putting them outdoors can cause major problems down the road.

Now if you have a big enough set up where you can keep 3-4ft plants in vigorous growth, then maybe my thoughts are wrong. However with my t-5's and tent growing (like I have) this isn't possible.

K, now that's a trip. You're saying you started with beans, but you start them inside? Something I've never done, I always use the natural photoperiod and even starting them in February, I don't get early flowering issues. Clones are another story (for me) ENTIRELY.

Can you combine using the Big Metal Halide in the Sky with your t-5 set-up?

Also, while it does take some thought, acclimating fluoro-grown plants to full sun hasn't proven to be terribly difficult for me. I usually put them out under my big black oak for a few days to a week, then they go where they're going for the season. If needed, they get some shade provided with some bamboo stuck around them and landscape cloth hung over top. Usually doesn't take more than a week for them to be fine with the full sun at this elevation, though.

what are most of you guys doing with your used soil from last year? to prep them for next season, mine have been sitting out in the rain, dumped some enzymes in them to eat the old roots up but other than that pretty baffled. tempted to totally ditch the old soil and use new on a few pots, and then amend the others. i just want to make sure any root rot of fungal diseases arent in the soil that will lead to an early end to my season.

Mine gets cover cropped for the winter season. Now that we have a weed-flamer the cover crops won't be being cut down and tilled under, they're just going to be burned til dead, then allowed to decompose in situ.

Every year, focusing on building the soil, I'm seeing things get better and better. You're kind of late to be going for cover cropping, though. I would throw some compost on top, along with whatever rock dusts, etc, you think it needs (or use a regular mix), then mulch heavily and let it set until you're ready to plant.

Don't concern yourself with old roots, they'll decompose on their own. Also, keeping cover crops going keeps the soil alive, aka soil biology.

last season i had resevoirs i mixed up tap water in. which was a pain really. the tap water and irriagation water is the same here ph wise, just the tap has the chlorine in it which i let the water air in the resevoirs before mixin.

also i was hand waterin everything last year and im not up for that this year, i just want to hook up the hose to the irrigation lines and go. hehe

I'm thinking more along the lines of something you can plug in-line and simply allow the water to pass through. Screw hand-watering, seriously. Automation, FTW!

 

[chef]

For 45N, I prep my clones @ 17/7 photoperiod, has been perfect for a June 1st planting outside. No problems at all.

Thinking about some drip bots too, but the 5gal bucket regime is a good workout

 

[YosemiteSam]

what are most of you guys doing with your used soil from last year? to prep them for next season, mine have been sitting out in the rain, dumped some enzymes in them to eat the old roots up but other than that pretty baffled. tempted to totally ditch the old soil and use new on a few pots, and then amend the others. i just want to make sure any root rot of fungal diseases arent in the soil that will lead to an early end to my season.

Ideally you would put a cover crop in them immediatly after harvest. And mj is like corn in that it likes a lot of N compared to other crops so follow the rotation that a corn grower might. Something to fix N and give you slightly bacterial dominated soil...say legumes.

Then ideally you would get a soil test...I would recommend the Westside protocol. Based on what comes back I would then re amend to try and achieve Albrecht ratios...but you could also choose a LaMotte test although the calculations are more complicated.

It is the mineral balance (along with energy input, N and K) that will determine yield and quality. And if you take a look at Mulder's chart you will see what a complicated motherfucker that really is...you ain't gonna get close flying blind.

my opinion anyways...obviously other people get excellent results doing it differently.

 

[ConfirmPassword]

Definitely going hard in 13....this will be the most epic one yet...

If Mother Nature cooperates and beyond anyone's control. If crappy weather then good luck.

 

[OrganicBuds]

K, now that's a trip. You're saying you started with beans, but you start them inside? Something I've never done, I always use the natural photoperiod and even starting them in February, I don't get early flowering issues. Clones are another story (for me) ENTIRELY.

Can you combine using the Big Metal Halide in the Sky with your t-5 set-up?

Also, while it does take some thought, acclimating fluoro-grown plants to full sun hasn't proven to be terribly difficult for me. I usually put them out under my big black oak for a few days to a week, then they go where they're going for the season. If needed, they get some shade provided with some bamboo stuck around them and landscape cloth hung over top. Usually doesn't take more than a week for them to be fine with the full sun at this elevation, though.

I had issues with both seeds and clones, but I get your point. Are you telling me you put seeds outside during Feb? I always start my seeds on a seed mat and let them get out of the dixie cups before I put them outdoors, last year around April 1st. This year I was thinking May 1st.

 

[theJointedOne]

Im always so surprised at the amount of gardens that deal with reveg b/c of too early going in...

when will they ever learn...patience.....

 

[SeaMaiden]

We want to get as much out of the sun as possible. Once folks learn better how to manipulate the photoperiod, those problems go away, too.

I had issues with both seeds and clones, but I get your point. Are you telling me you put seeds outside during Feb? I always start my seeds on a seed mat and let them get out of the dixie cups before I put them outdoors, last year around April 1st. This year I was thinking May 1st.

I have put them out as early as February, but learned that growth completely stalls if they're not offered some warmth along with the sunlight. I've let them be snowed on (been trying to find a photo of one crop early on, everyone who saw the pic said, "Oh! you're fucked" but the results that year were pretty darn good. Yield wasn't epic, but the quality was there and they certainly got big.

I do as much with the natural photoperiod and light as I can, because I'm cheap and don't want to pay for power if I don't have to. I'm not sure a month will make a huge difference, UNLESS that month of April is sunny and warm. If that's the case, then I'd want them out by April. Most of my friends, who are very much more organized than I am, aim for a June 1 put-out date. They're growing everything inside during winter, or heated GH with supplemental lighting when/where necessary.

 

[OrganicBuds]

Im always so surprised at the amount of gardens that deal with reveg b/c of too early going in...

when will they ever learn...patience.....

Enlighten us, when you do put yours out? And what size to they get at the end of the season?

 

[theJointedOne]

Well I dont claim to be able to enlighten...bu imho..Beans should be popping now...or at the latest next month. Give them love and care, a nice environment and ample space for roots in nice soil with plenty of castings. As for clones....i am of the opinion that big plants do not have to come from giant old clones....A nice gh with supp lighting...cut 4/1.... then bump up from 3's to 5's or 7's...all while cutting back on supp light sched. Out june 1st. Should hit at least 5 with proper genetics and proper cultivation

 

[chef]

That's my schedule @ 2000'/45N too.
Take cuts first week of April, 4 footers go out June 1st.
Conditioned to 17/7 photoperiod.

 

[smoooth]

The growing large plants, outdoors, thread...

This is my plan as well when it comes to clones and seedlings. When I talk about planning now, I'm talking about getting the location/plot set, getting soil and amendments prepped etc..
Trying to pick some seedlings for this year...

 

[OrganicBuds]

This is my plan as well when it comes to clones and seedlings. When I talk about planning now, I'm talking about getting the location/plot set, getting soil and amendments prepped etc..
Trying to pick some seedlings for this year...

Well I got a good soil recipe that I would love some feed back on...... Would love to see what other soil recipes out there.

At the bottom of all my holes I add about 20% of the entire volume with steer compost with a handful of worms from my bin. Then I add my soil mix. To the very top layer I add another layer of EWC, then about 2-4 inches of fine redwood mulch.

Soil Mix (total mix makes 1.1 yards of soil)
50 gallons Roots Organics or Fox Farm Ocean Forrest
50 gallons of small size perlite
50 gallons EWC
50 gallons Coco
6.5 gallons of steer compost (Bu’s bio-dynamic thermal compost)
38 cups of Organicare “pure” grow
1.5 gallons of Organic rice
12 cups greensand
13 cups Rock phosphate granular
19 cups ground oyster shells
25 cups crushed oyster shells
25 cups alfalfa meal
12.5 cups of powdered dolomite lime
44 cups of prilled dolomite lime
25 cups of Dr Earth Humic Acid ore
6 cups of blood meal
13 cups of granular Azomite
6.5 cups high N bat guano
12.5 cups of Kelp meal
12.5 cups Feather Meal
13 cups of powdered gypsum
25 cups un-steamed granular bone meal
6.25 cups of soft rock phosphate
13 cups of Fox Farm piece of mind bulb food


The steer compost is Bu's farm bio compost, and I was thinking of getting a yard or two of EWC from Sonoma Valley Worm Farm.

Some might wonder why I have products like Fox Farm piece of mind bulb food, and the reason is slow release of nutes. I tried to put in fast, slow and medium relese nutes to ensure nutrients all season long. Does anybody do any organic spikes in their soils?

 

[bajangreen]

If i was to plug in a seedling into the final 100 gall pot you think the final plant would be better or worst? or should i veg up to a 5gall first? i know it is done this way because the early starts are indoors but i can do mine out doors and was just wondering if it would make a difference.

I asked because Tom hill mentioned earlier in the tread that when the roots touch the containers walls its a up hill battle from there.

Do i have to start the root system in any particular media or any particular way?

 

[SeaMaiden]

Well I dont claim to be able to enlighten...bu imho..Beans should be popping now...or at the latest next month. Give them love and care, a nice environment and ample space for roots in nice soil with plenty of castings. As for clones....i am of the opinion that big plants do not have to come from giant old clones....A nice gh with supp lighting...cut 4/1.... then bump up from 3's to 5's or 7's...all while cutting back on supp light sched. Out june 1st. Should hit at least 5 with proper genetics and proper cultivation

YUP! And you know what the hardest part of that is, right? Selecting what you're going to pop (especially if you have limits you're unaccustomed to). Thanks for reminding me, I have everything else in place & ready, I have to make my selections and get to poppage!



OrganicBuds, RICE? That's a first to me. Would you explain, please?

If i was to plug in a seedling into the final 100 gall pot you think the final plant would be better or worst? or should i veg up to a 5gall first? i know it is done this way because the early starts are indoors but i can do mine out doors and was just wondering if it would make a difference.

I asked because Tom hill mentioned earlier in the tread that when the roots touch the containers walls its a up hill battle from there.

Do i have to start the root system in any particular media or any particular way?

If you don't mind having to cull males from those pots as a 'set-back', then go for it. I think most of us keep them to smaller containers for ease of moving, and that sort of thing. I know my back and knees groan when I think about moving anything 3gals and larger.

 

[Veg N Out]

Organicbuds u should blend all your dry amends together and get a guaranteed analysis done on them