50 grams aint dick for weight. Even if you bought the 2 ounces that is a small price for 448 plants.
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The Compound...
- Thread starter swapmeet
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50 grams aint dick for weight. Even if you bought the 2 ounces that is a small price for 448 plants.
I only actually ran 5 of the nine plants I wanted to run in that thread. I had never ran a flat grow before so that was all new to me. So 5 plants got me like 19.5 ounces. With eight I could have gotten around 2 pounds. And now I could get more since I have run like that before and can improve the numbers.
swapmeet
Active member
Yeah, I did buy the two ounces... I got them for like $220 each from a fellow mod over at Gardens cure...
It was less than $1 per plant... A small price to pay.... It wasn't long before we had over 1000 plants going legally.
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realweeddispens
New member
Thanks for sharing, great stuff quality products.. love to see it
swapmeet
Active member
No worries bro, welcome....Thanks for making my thread your first post haha stick around, it's going to get nasty in here when this system starts a hoonin...
DunHav`nFun
Well-known member
Ok..... In legal states , plant numbers matter as Icky states , but as Swap`s plainly shown howta get around it with a collective back when Cali was still wild wild west medville , opinions vary widely about the aspect of legal medical marijuana and it`s state guidelines for cultivation …... So as a born and retired criminal in my "illegal" state , I decided long ago that a potential life sentence looming over my head for ANY pot cultivated for distribution just made me work harder and grow as much as humanly possible for as long as I could for either 1 helluva retirement fund , or Lawyer fees worst case scenario.....now.....back to our regularly scheduled program.....
Netting in front of the plantlets …..I bought 4' x 250' rolls of "Horti-trellis" and hung the shit from plywood ceilings covered in reflectix usin simple screw hooks , and once all end colas were set in place , the netting and colas held themselves.....now.....if you can`t hang nets , then Icky`s screen frames work fine as long as the frames don't block light to anything green.....and hey.....
Octabubblers are yo friend if you`re gonna fuck with as many quads as you call em , and as long as each drip tube is equal length to each plantsite and pressure is constant , then "flow" to each individual container will be equal , but if you wanna do the long way , that`s up to you.....Pico`s thread came out long before Octabubblers were on the market , and with Drip Clean in the mix , it`s just less work , but again your choice .....
Just tryin ta make shit as easy and redundant as possible for a solid well oiled machine from the get.....again.....cuz we`re in uncharted territory but yas gotta start somewhere when you jump head first down the rabbit hole.....
Next lesson.....Pumps and "head pressure" for vertical feeds.....
Peace....DHF....
…...
Netting in front of the plantlets …..I bought 4' x 250' rolls of "Horti-trellis" and hung the shit from plywood ceilings covered in reflectix usin simple screw hooks , and once all end colas were set in place , the netting and colas held themselves.....now.....if you can`t hang nets , then Icky`s screen frames work fine as long as the frames don't block light to anything green.....and hey.....
Octabubblers are yo friend if you`re gonna fuck with as many quads as you call em , and as long as each drip tube is equal length to each plantsite and pressure is constant , then "flow" to each individual container will be equal , but if you wanna do the long way , that`s up to you.....Pico`s thread came out long before Octabubblers were on the market , and with Drip Clean in the mix , it`s just less work , but again your choice .....
Just tryin ta make shit as easy and redundant as possible for a solid well oiled machine from the get.....again.....cuz we`re in uncharted territory but yas gotta start somewhere when you jump head first down the rabbit hole.....
Next lesson.....Pumps and "head pressure" for vertical feeds.....
Peace....DHF....
…...If you are in the states here is a place to get cheap crop netting.
https://www.memphisnet.net/category/hortonova-crop-support-netting
It is where i got the netting I used in my 13 week scrog thread.
https://www.memphisnet.net/category/hortonova-crop-support-netting
It is where i got the netting I used in my 13 week scrog thread.
swapmeet
Active member
Ok..... In legal states , plant numbers matter as Icky states , but as Swap`s plainly shown howta get around it with a collective back when Cali was still wild wild west medville , opinions vary widely about the aspect of legal medical marijuana and it`s state guidelines for cultivation …... So as a born and retired criminal in my "illegal" state , I decided long ago that a potential life sentence looming over my head for ANY pot cultivated for distribution just made me work harder and grow as much as humanly possible for as long as I could for either 1 helluva retirement fund , or Lawyer fees worst case scenario.....now.....back to our regularly scheduled program.....
Netting in front of the plantlets …..I bought 4' x 250' rolls of "Horti-trellis" and hung the shit from plywood ceilings covered in reflectix usin simple screw hooks , and once all end colas were set in place , the netting and colas held themselves.....now.....if you can`t hang nets , then Icky`s screen frames work fine as long as the frames don't block light to anything green.....and hey.....
Octabubblers are yo friend if you`re gonna fuck with as many quads as you call em , and as long as each drip tube is equal length to each plantsite and pressure is constant , then "flow" to each individual container will be equal , but if you wanna do the long way , that`s up to you.....Pico`s thread came out long before Octabubblers were on the market , and with Drip Clean in the mix , it`s just less work , but again your choice .....
Just tryin ta make shit as easy and redundant as possible for a solid well oiled machine from the get.....again.....cuz we`re in uncharted territory but yas gotta start somewhere when you jump head first down the rabbit hole.....
Next lesson.....Pumps and "head pressure" for vertical feeds.....
Peace....DHF....
Okay.... Trellis netting on the way... Downstairs I have 12' ceilings, so that will be interesting...upstairs are typical 8', so I can reach up to them (being 6'3" has a couple advantages)...
As for the octabubblers... $100/quad is kind of steep... I will pony it up if need be, but I am going to try the 4 ways first...that will reduce the drilling into 1/4 of what it was...if that doesn't workout, I'll switch to octabubblers during the dialing process... 2 basket stakes per plant x max 100 plants per quad is 200 lines per quad, which the 4 ways will divide into 50 taps/drills per quad... then each cubby will have a 4 way, which will cover both plants in it. I will have a 1/4" shut off to each 4 way so that I can control the flow of each cubby, as you have recommended in the past, IIRC... So we will see how that goes...
As for the head pressure...I am interested in that lesson. I have seen it mentioned in a lot of places, but unsure of what all that entails... so I am looking forward to the lesson....
swapmeet
Active member
Done. Thank you sir.
DunHav`nFun
Well-known member
I believe I paid 40 bucks per 250' rolls of that hortinova shit with 6" holes.....and again.....my apologies on not havin priced parts and such for a long time , but I didn`t realize what octabubblers cost , I was just trying to minimize the labor end of things since this project is fast moving toward budget and cost per unit.....and hey.....stop the presses.....
No way you gotta have 2 drip tubes per container using 2`s or especially 1`s , so let`s back up and assess the situation then survey all our options.....First off.....with the amount of units you`ll be ultimately running , why not consider using irrigation tubing with hole punchers and push in fittings for the driptubing to basket stakes , and pvc outta rez and tying the 2 together inside the units where all if any small leaks will drain off.....and that`s another thing needing brought to the table.....runoff ?....drainage ?.....
I built my racks leaning toward 2 corners that drained down Raingo pvc downspouts to a sump rez with float switches to pump all the runoff out into the crawlspace French drain.....lotta aspects of this way that worked for me as to where it`s not lookin so easy for you with premade shelving , but where there`s a will there`s a way.....or.....
We can punt right now and think about what`s easier where you are for your situation , and still pump out perpetual dankage throughout the yr for consistent turnover of product.....What I discussed in PM is the easiest babyshit wayta do it that ever was , but it`s not with bare bulbs hangin , although I really like Icky`s way of hangin his LED`s vertically and growin them walls of nugs…..
Jus sayin.....and always will....many waysta skin a mule.....but.....gotta work smarter not harder and do what`s easiest and best for your situation cuz after awhile this shit gets old , and if you don`t treat it like a job , it`ll fall by the wayside eventually by neglect , and that`s when shit goes sideways and crop failures ensue.....aight.....nuff outta my old ass this day.....
Bout ta eat Bfast and wait on football games....
Peace.....DHF..... …….
No way you gotta have 2 drip tubes per container using 2`s or especially 1`s , so let`s back up and assess the situation then survey all our options.....First off.....with the amount of units you`ll be ultimately running , why not consider using irrigation tubing with hole punchers and push in fittings for the driptubing to basket stakes , and pvc outta rez and tying the 2 together inside the units where all if any small leaks will drain off.....and that`s another thing needing brought to the table.....runoff ?....drainage ?.....
I built my racks leaning toward 2 corners that drained down Raingo pvc downspouts to a sump rez with float switches to pump all the runoff out into the crawlspace French drain.....lotta aspects of this way that worked for me as to where it`s not lookin so easy for you with premade shelving , but where there`s a will there`s a way.....or.....
We can punt right now and think about what`s easier where you are for your situation , and still pump out perpetual dankage throughout the yr for consistent turnover of product.....What I discussed in PM is the easiest babyshit wayta do it that ever was , but it`s not with bare bulbs hangin , although I really like Icky`s way of hangin his LED`s vertically and growin them walls of nugs…..
Jus sayin.....and always will....many waysta skin a mule.....but.....gotta work smarter not harder and do what`s easiest and best for your situation cuz after awhile this shit gets old , and if you don`t treat it like a job , it`ll fall by the wayside eventually by neglect , and that`s when shit goes sideways and crop failures ensue.....aight.....nuff outta my old ass this day.....
Bout ta eat Bfast and wait on football games....
Peace.....DHF.....
…….
swapmeet
Active member
That is good to know about the one stake per container, I was wondering about that... as for the irrigation tubing, and push fittings..that is pretty much the idea I was leaning towards with pvc... drilling the holes and pushing a barbed straight connector into the hole with 1/4" tubing coming out of it.
I would rather use flexible irrigation tubing and a hole punch. I was just under the impression that pvc was better to use....flexible tubing is much more, well, flexible... and would be a lot easier to set up initially... hence, preferable.
As for the drainage, I was thinking about keeping it simple with the corrugated plastic, slightly tilted to the back, aimed into a simple little rain gutter situation...dumping into a collection res and pumping to the drain... our set ups will be similar in that regard, though I was considering running it in the back by angling the corrugated plastic tilted towards the back so as not to block my wall of nuggage... This can be achieved simply by placing a 1x1" strip across the front, underneath the plastic...
Back to the drip plumbing...are you suggesting a hybrid, pvc/flexible tubing/1/4" tubing set up? Tell me more...
We can punt right now and think about what`s easier where you are for your situation , and still pump out perpetual dankage throughout the yr for consistent turnover of product.....What I discussed in PM is the easiest babyshit wayta do it that ever was , but it`s not with bare bulbs hangin , although I really like Icky`s way of hangin his LED`s vertically and growin them walls of nugs…..
Peace.....DHF.....
I appreciate your concern for my situation, as usual. You are a thoughtful cat, and I respect that a lot. I am going to try the set up that you referenced in PM. I have the kw lights on hand already...and as you said, it is a simple set up and dial...many less parts. I really like that about the system.... My logic is as follows:
It comes down to two points:
1. Babyshit is Babyshit.
The PM system is easier to set up and dial than the vertical racks...The challenge is in the dialage. Once the system is dialed, it reaches the status of babyshit... And once the PM system is dialed, albeit sooner, it reaches the status of babyshit. At the end of the longest day, both systems reach the same status, which is babyshit... It really comes down to can I dial system B in reasonably well, in a reasonable amount of time to make point 2 inconsequential? That is, how long will it take to dial system B in enough to at least yield around the neighborhood of system A's production? I think within 4 runs, with a new run starting every two weeks-ish, that is a plenty reasonable amount of time... work intensive at the start, but dividends paid heavy as it gets more and more dialed...
2. OZ/SF/W
We are talking about two systems, each taking up 4'x4' of footprint +/- a foot all the way around for overhang...regardless, the actual canopy footprint is 4x4 in System A, and 3x3 in system B.
System A:
200 1/4 oz budsicles in a 4x4 area under a kw.
50 OZ in 16 sf. Or, 3.13oz/sf, 62.5 w/sf, 20w/oz
System B:
100 1oz christmas trees in a 3x3 area with 600w vertical.
100 OZ in 9 sf. or 11.11 oz/sf, 66.67 w/sf, 6w/oz.
While much more difficult to dial, system B theoretically produces much more. In fact, even if it only yielded 1/2oz per christmas tree, it would still be a more efficient system, while yielding about the same. Having said that, when does the system become better than system A? As soon as it yields around the same, which will likely happen on the road to dialage... Still...the question remains, can the racks in system B get to that level in this area? That remains to be seen... but that notwithstanding, I will try both systems....I have the room... It is going to take a shitload of clones either way, so either way, worst case, loading up the quad racks will provide those if I fail...which is not likely. I am sure that with the guidance I have here, as well as my skill and available resources, we can dial in system B and ride that wave to nirvana...
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DunHav`nFun
Well-known member
Ok....Ok....Ok.....I`ll stop tryin ta talk yas out of shit and get on with it aight ?....
…..and hey....If you`re gonna use gutters around the back sides , you can run the flex/feed tube in said gutters and just feed from behind.....drainage and potential leak problem solved....now....Code states you only gotta have 1/8" per foot fall for water to flow/drain off plumbin wise , so raising corrugated shelving up even 1/2" in front is overkill but guarantees faster runoff although we`re working toward little to no runoff period once dialed with drip clean.....but.....erring on the side of caution and allowing some runoff at first to figure feed and liquid needs per container would be advisable in the dialage process....next.....
Pumps and "head pressure"..... Pond pumps were what Heath told me to get cuz they pump "vertically" X amount of ft before GPH`s fall off drastically , and what you have ta achieve is "equal flow and pressure" to each plantsite , but all on all 4 levels , so the ball/control valves on each level will haveta be adjusted up or down to obtain said equal flow and pressure on the top as well as the bottom level.....all in the path of dialage…...also.....
Out of the rez is a "bypass" that blows a lotta excess flow back down into the rez from the oversized pumps cuz a pvc ball valve is above the bypass and can be located above the rez for easy access that controls the "main" flow to the loopfield manifold that feeds each plantsite…..the bypass is simply a pvc "tee" with a short straight piece stubbed out with a 90 degree elbow on it that blasts excess juice back down to rez during each feed sequence so all flow above the ball valve can be choked down to control flow to each level , and then the ball valves on each level control flow and pressure to each plantsite on said levels....aight....
Nuff this morning.....Gotta run dawg and piss off cows.....Hope that`s understandable bro.....more later....
Peace.....DHF..... …….
…..and hey....If you`re gonna use gutters around the back sides , you can run the flex/feed tube in said gutters and just feed from behind.....drainage and potential leak problem solved....now....Code states you only gotta have 1/8" per foot fall for water to flow/drain off plumbin wise , so raising corrugated shelving up even 1/2" in front is overkill but guarantees faster runoff although we`re working toward little to no runoff period once dialed with drip clean.....but.....erring on the side of caution and allowing some runoff at first to figure feed and liquid needs per container would be advisable in the dialage process....next.....Pumps and "head pressure"..... Pond pumps were what Heath told me to get cuz they pump "vertically" X amount of ft before GPH`s fall off drastically , and what you have ta achieve is "equal flow and pressure" to each plantsite , but all on all 4 levels , so the ball/control valves on each level will haveta be adjusted up or down to obtain said equal flow and pressure on the top as well as the bottom level.....all in the path of dialage…...also.....
Out of the rez is a "bypass" that blows a lotta excess flow back down into the rez from the oversized pumps cuz a pvc ball valve is above the bypass and can be located above the rez for easy access that controls the "main" flow to the loopfield manifold that feeds each plantsite…..the bypass is simply a pvc "tee" with a short straight piece stubbed out with a 90 degree elbow on it that blasts excess juice back down to rez during each feed sequence so all flow above the ball valve can be choked down to control flow to each level , and then the ball valves on each level control flow and pressure to each plantsite on said levels....aight....
Nuff this morning.....Gotta run dawg and piss off cows.....Hope that`s understandable bro.....more later....
Peace.....DHF.....
…….
swapmeet
Active member
Ok....Ok....Ok.....I`ll stop tryin ta talk yas out of shit and get on with it aight ?....
In that case, I can just zip tie a piece of 1/2" tubing to the front under the corrugated plastic... this will give me my 1/2" fall to the back in a simple way...
As for running "gutter tubes...." I like it. Do you suggest running 3/4" or 1/2"tubing up both sides of the racks with a tee on each side of each level of the rack, connecting a horizontal flexible tube of the same size down each row with the straight connectors and 1/4" feed tubes running off of it, and circling back into itself?
So would the ball valves then be placed on each horizontal tube after the tee?
I guess that answers the above question... so the return breaks the circle, or the bypass is part of the circle that is just a way to relieve excess pressure? I think I will have to see how many gph it takes to feed a quad...starting with 500gph, and going up from there...
DunHav`nFun
Well-known member
Most smaller pumps like yours have a 3/4" outlet to retro garden hose to so John Q consumer can use the pumps at home without havin to call a plumber to suck out flooded basements and such.....that said.....3/4 will hold more volume than 1/2 and be able to choke down more in search of dialed equal flow and pressure to each plantsite on each level......so.....Since your quads will be open per se , all levels of the feed manifold should have "risers" on each of the 4 sides to help pressurize the entire manifold BEFORE the ball valves get turned ….
Think of em like 4 legs on the shelves and the elbows go on the outside corners to tie all tubing together …..The control valves go underneath each level on those risers, and although I ran pvc and only had 1 corner where the access hole was to place each level`s ball valve , since the irrigation tubing and fittings is way cheaper , I`d suggest you put valves on all corners AND levels for faster tweaking.....especially with the pump being the X factor as we speak.....see Bro....
That 500 gph pump might not pump dick uphill as in straight up , and that`s why yas gotta buy pumps that provide "head pressure" vertically ...no biggie.....just google the damn things and they`ll come up as sump pumps and pond pumps.....You`ll need most likely , and this is a guess , but a pump with 12' of head pressure will most likely be adequate , but remember each time you go up and then round and round on each level , gph`s will drop accordingly , and....with way more plantsites on each level , pressure will drop faster as well.......so.....lastly tonite……
Tying into the feed loop from the rez , the bottom level can be choked down by the pvc ball valve above the bypass and out of rez , but each upper level will haveta be choked off as needed , so.....once it`s all together , leave the feedloop control valves open with all the feedlines hooked to basket stakes in all containers , and turn on pump....BUT....the pvc ball valve above the bypass has ta be twisted to slow down juice so as to not blow out all connections and push in fittings.....lol....are yas getting the drift Bro.....IOW.....
This is all to be tested till perfect.....Get ta work and.....
Holler....DHF..... …..
Think of em like 4 legs on the shelves and the elbows go on the outside corners to tie all tubing together …..The control valves go underneath each level on those risers, and although I ran pvc and only had 1 corner where the access hole was to place each level`s ball valve , since the irrigation tubing and fittings is way cheaper , I`d suggest you put valves on all corners AND levels for faster tweaking.....especially with the pump being the X factor as we speak.....see Bro....
That 500 gph pump might not pump dick uphill as in straight up , and that`s why yas gotta buy pumps that provide "head pressure" vertically ...no biggie.....just google the damn things and they`ll come up as sump pumps and pond pumps.....You`ll need most likely , and this is a guess , but a pump with 12' of head pressure will most likely be adequate , but remember each time you go up and then round and round on each level , gph`s will drop accordingly , and....with way more plantsites on each level , pressure will drop faster as well.......so.....lastly tonite……
Tying into the feed loop from the rez , the bottom level can be choked down by the pvc ball valve above the bypass and out of rez , but each upper level will haveta be choked off as needed , so.....once it`s all together , leave the feedloop control valves open with all the feedlines hooked to basket stakes in all containers , and turn on pump....BUT....the pvc ball valve above the bypass has ta be twisted to slow down juice so as to not blow out all connections and push in fittings.....lol....are yas getting the drift Bro.....IOW.....
This is all to be tested till perfect.....Get ta work and.....
Holler....DHF.....
…..
swapmeet
Active member
Based on your description, this is what I picture... please correct where I fucked up...obviously, I did not put the 1/4" feed lines because I understand that part well enough... this way the pump doesn't necessarily have to pump straight up. It can just use pressure to go vertical... I am not very good with design, obviously, but if I understand it, I can build it... Now....Time to watch the Cowboy game I recorded...
DunHav`nFun
Well-known member
See …..Wish I could draw that shit , but nooooo…..I`m puter illiterate.....anyways....made a post in Unc Fishstick`s thread and got a spurt of energy , so before I crash let`s see if I can explain it per your drawing.....ok.....
You`re not seeing that the outside corners haveta be elbows running horizontally around the 4 corners , while the tees haveta be inside and vertical for all the juice to flow up , down , and all around the loopfield manifold while all the control valves choke ALL that shit down to the EXACT same flow to each plantsite no matter whether it on the bottom or top......now.....
The tees haveta be inside the corners and run vertically on all 4 corners to pressurize the manifold as fast as possible every feed sequence , but the control valves go under each level to dial each level`s flow and pressure.....and.....out of the rez hasta be vertical with the bypass still inside the rez and the ball valve controlling the most flow needsta be pvc above and out of the rez for easy access since that`s the most force being generated and hasta be dialed down as tweaking is done....aight.....think about it.....mull shit over and holler.....
Peace.....DHF..... …….
You`re not seeing that the outside corners haveta be elbows running horizontally around the 4 corners , while the tees haveta be inside and vertical for all the juice to flow up , down , and all around the loopfield manifold while all the control valves choke ALL that shit down to the EXACT same flow to each plantsite no matter whether it on the bottom or top......now.....
The tees haveta be inside the corners and run vertically on all 4 corners to pressurize the manifold as fast as possible every feed sequence , but the control valves go under each level to dial each level`s flow and pressure.....and.....out of the rez hasta be vertical with the bypass still inside the rez and the ball valve controlling the most flow needsta be pvc above and out of the rez for easy access since that`s the most force being generated and hasta be dialed down as tweaking is done....aight.....think about it.....mull shit over and holler.....
Peace.....DHF.....
…….
DunHav`nFun
Well-known member
Ok.....we`re gettin there......Drop the bypass down inside the rez above solution level , and move the pvc ball valve up and where the pvc turns toward the manifold.....Then.....instead of where you have the pvc tying into the irrigation tubing straight across , put an elbow on the short pc up top and run pvc down to the floor before pressurizing the complete manifold......The ball valve can go on the short pc up top before going down to the floor that gives easy access for the most important control valve......IOW....
Ya gotta start from the floor up to properly dial each level and keep all flow and pressure equal from the get with all those control valves underneath each level , and hey....I`m not sayin ya gotta use control valves on each corner , but with that flextube , X can be anything and I`m erring on the side of caution so when you pressurize the manifold , you don't blow all the fittings out the tubes.....or worse....lol....now.....
That`s the way Heath showed me....some kinda science shit behind it....dunno….hydrodynamics ?....no clue.....anyways.....where were we.....aight....Where you`ve got the tees on the outside and control valves underneath , move em inside with the elbows on the outside to turn the corners and go round the quad while sitting inside the gutters for the individual feed tubes to be located.... I used pvc furniture fittings to turn corners as well as run vertically , so since you `ll be using irrigation flextubing , the only alternative is to have 8 risers feeding juice upstairs as to where I only had 4....
My feedlines sat down in the racks themselves since the plants sat on pondliner and leaned toward the corners for runoff , yours will be running front to back to the gutters behind , so the vertical tubing will have to go up tp each level in from or behind the gutters and turn in to fit in the gutters to be able to travel up , down , and all around the quad creating equal flow and pressure for each and every plantsite .....and....
You`re gonna be the one to figure out how all this works for your particular situation as in how you can get all levels up and around the drainage gutters cuz I`m still not sure how you`ll configure your quads , so let`s just say the first 1`s a prototype to be dialed further as more come into use....and finally.....
When it`s all said and done , you`ll haveta build this shit and make it work....how you do it is the process of seeing it in 3d and making everything hoon and flow.....then....it`s babyshit…..
Wish I could be there for 1 day and you`d know the hurdles to jump and get there sooner, but.....the weak links are the corners....gotta figure out your setup that works for you and proceed....lemme know your thoughts....
Peace.....Freds….. …...
Ya gotta start from the floor up to properly dial each level and keep all flow and pressure equal from the get with all those control valves underneath each level , and hey....I`m not sayin ya gotta use control valves on each corner , but with that flextube , X can be anything and I`m erring on the side of caution so when you pressurize the manifold , you don't blow all the fittings out the tubes.....or worse....lol....now.....
That`s the way Heath showed me....some kinda science shit behind it....dunno….hydrodynamics ?....no clue.....anyways.....where were we.....aight....Where you`ve got the tees on the outside and control valves underneath , move em inside with the elbows on the outside to turn the corners and go round the quad while sitting inside the gutters for the individual feed tubes to be located.... I used pvc furniture fittings to turn corners as well as run vertically , so since you `ll be using irrigation flextubing , the only alternative is to have 8 risers feeding juice upstairs as to where I only had 4....
My feedlines sat down in the racks themselves since the plants sat on pondliner and leaned toward the corners for runoff , yours will be running front to back to the gutters behind , so the vertical tubing will have to go up tp each level in from or behind the gutters and turn in to fit in the gutters to be able to travel up , down , and all around the quad creating equal flow and pressure for each and every plantsite .....and....
You`re gonna be the one to figure out how all this works for your particular situation as in how you can get all levels up and around the drainage gutters cuz I`m still not sure how you`ll configure your quads , so let`s just say the first 1`s a prototype to be dialed further as more come into use....and finally.....
When it`s all said and done , you`ll haveta build this shit and make it work....how you do it is the process of seeing it in 3d and making everything hoon and flow.....then....it`s babyshit…..
Wish I could be there for 1 day and you`d know the hurdles to jump and get there sooner, but.....the weak links are the corners....gotta figure out your setup that works for you and proceed....lemme know your thoughts....
Peace.....Freds…..
…...
swapmeet
Active member
Sorry about the delay.... Had a little scare with a package held at customs for the last couple days, that has a lot of genetics in it... So I cleansed my house of any grow-related equipment or items and transferred them over to the compound. I probably shouldn't have had 70 seeds sent in the same package...but I am done ordering genetics for a nice good long while...(I technically have one more small order en route, but I am not concerned about it). The package cleared customs yesterday and should be delivered tomorrow, it is just getting into the busy time of year. So back to work.
These young mothers have around 7-8 nodes on them and are starting to form their secondary growth tips at each one, so they are about ready for me to top them and get those tops rooted, vegged for a very short time, and into flower for the first little wave. In order to develop more future clone sites on the moms and also promote those tight nodes, I removed a few of the lower fans, which exposed the nodes more. I left the top 3 or so nodes completely intact...
Also the Res' are dry now, which is probably why they had a bit of a growth explosion... the roots hit the res' and sucked up the juice... Also there was a little green algae in there from the light and whatnot, so I took all the plants out, cleaned the res' with a little bleach solution, and put them all back in to let them dry out a bit for today and tomorrow, then I will add a touch of bleach to the next feeding, which I expect another growth spurt from, all around. After I get it, I'll top them bitches and fire up the aero cloner... Here are some pictures before the little defoliation...
West Side:
East Side:
West Side from above:
East Side from above:
These young mothers have around 7-8 nodes on them and are starting to form their secondary growth tips at each one, so they are about ready for me to top them and get those tops rooted, vegged for a very short time, and into flower for the first little wave. In order to develop more future clone sites on the moms and also promote those tight nodes, I removed a few of the lower fans, which exposed the nodes more. I left the top 3 or so nodes completely intact...
Also the Res' are dry now, which is probably why they had a bit of a growth explosion... the roots hit the res' and sucked up the juice... Also there was a little green algae in there from the light and whatnot, so I took all the plants out, cleaned the res' with a little bleach solution, and put them all back in to let them dry out a bit for today and tomorrow, then I will add a touch of bleach to the next feeding, which I expect another growth spurt from, all around. After I get it, I'll top them bitches and fire up the aero cloner... Here are some pictures before the little defoliation...
West Side:
East Side:
West Side from above:
East Side from above:
swapmeet
Active member
Ok.....we`re gettin there......Drop the bypass down inside the rez above solution level , and move the pvc ball valve up and where the pvc turns toward the manifold.....Then.....instead of where you have the pvc tying into the irrigation tubing straight across , put an elbow on the short pc up top and run pvc down to the floor before pressurizing the complete manifold......The ball valve can go on the short pc up top before going down to the floor that gives easy access for the most important control valve......IOW....
Ya gotta start from the floor up to properly dial each level and keep all flow and pressure equal from the get with all those control valves underneath each level , and hey....I`m not sayin ya gotta use control valves on each corner , but with that flextube , X can be anything and I`m erring on the side of caution so when you pressurize the manifold , you don't blow all the fittings out the tubes.....or worse....lol....now.....
That`s the way Heath showed me....some kinda science shit behind it....dunno….hydrodynamics ?....no clue.....anyways.....where were we.....aight....Where you`ve got the tees on the outside and control valves underneath , move em inside with the elbows on the outside to turn the corners and go round the quad while sitting inside the gutters for the individual feed tubes to be located.... I used pvc furniture fittings to turn corners as well as run vertically , so since you `ll be using irrigation flextubing , the only alternative is to have 8 risers feeding juice upstairs as to where I only had 4....
My feedlines sat down in the racks themselves since the plants sat on pondliner and leaned toward the corners for runoff , yours will be running front to back to the gutters behind , so the vertical tubing will have to go up tp each level in from or behind the gutters and turn in to fit in the gutters to be able to travel up , down , and all around the quad creating equal flow and pressure for each and every plantsite .....and....
Peace.....Freds…..
So this is how I picture what you are saying:
I start at the bottom with the pressure coming from the pump, out a low bulkhead, and pressurizing the manifold from the bottom right corner, up.
I've got the bypass coming back inside the res with a shutoff to control the flow.
Shutoffs on both sides under every level.
I have got 110g of reservoir connected with bulkheads at the bottom, which will be self leveling by gravity...and If I want to add a third one, it will be RO top off on a float valve, though that may be unnecessary.
I also bought 4 way 1/4" shutoff valves so I can control the flow to 4 plants at a time... Overkill? Like you say, it's underrated....I do like control though
Here's where I think we're at... tell me where I'm fucking up still...
