Team Microbe's Nose Dive into No-till (2nd cycle)

[Team Microbe]

Serious 6

Serious 6

Popped all of these today, they'll be future mothers that I'll be cutting from in prep for this year's outdoor


Has anyone grown out this strain before?

 

[MostWantedGens]

replacement seeds?

 

[Team Microbe]

replacement seeds?

ya

 

[MostWantedGens]

not germinated the first order?

 

[Team Microbe]

nope didn't germ that well

 

[Jay Daga]

I've never known that before! That's pretty trippy to imagine too - the energy within such a symbiotic system. Very informative post man

Yep, definately very trippy thing to imagine... and even trippier to experience and see when in trippy state of mind, walk in the nature and see all interconnected in amazingly complex natural network of subtle and not so subtle types of all the same energy.

Was very interesting reading what LLB and you TM posted on the page 5. The detailed info about Cation Exchange Capacity I mean.
It seems that the "insulative" layer of soil, the top part of it where the microbial life thrives is like its own world in between of the mentioned two main polarities of ground and sky. In living topsoil the negative and positive charges interact and are used by fungi and microbes together with the plant roots.
What you are doing when mixing the ingredients for your soil mix and adding enzymes and all that you add is like putting together all the right pieces and the little folks there in the soil take and put them in use. Really inspiring to see your grows and read these threads!

I see you don´t have charcoal as one part of your soil mix. I could imagine it would be.. Is there some reason why not or is it that you haven´t yet just tested as its going all so well without it too?

If you check this link and the pic 3 there: http://www.slideshare.net/mik1999/char2?related=1
It mentions there cation exchange capacity again, interestingly it says that "Biochar appears to be able to strongly adsorb phosphate, even though it is an anion.." and that the mechanism for this process is not fully understood.

This gives very interesting hint how also the cation exchange in the root zone, even though clearly it is ionic phenomenon of electric charges - is not completely and only just it. There also is something finer going on, on a more subtle level.

 

[Former Guest]

Bio char is highly porous material and that increases surface area. The high amount of surface area in such a small piece of charred wood is what lets it absorb the nutrients you use to charge it with. The porous texture provides an optimal environment to house the microbes which consume the nutrients. That us what gives it the high CEC.

The electrical charges the roots exude stimulate the microbes as they process it which is what gives your soil it's energy or life. You can test and record your ERGS rating by measuring the energy of your soil. The process works in a circle feeding the plant and then the microbes. This cycle builds up and creates a lot of energy or electricity. You can measure this using your ppm meter. You make a slurry and can test ph and ERGS at the same time.

 

[Team Microbe]

Yep, definately very trippy thing to imagine... and even trippier to experience and see when in trippy state of mind, walk in the nature and see all interconnected in amazingly complex natural network of subtle and not so subtle types of all the same energy.

Was very interesting reading what LLB and you TM posted on the page 5. The detailed info about Cation Exchange Capacity I mean.
It seems that the "insulative" layer of soil, the top part of it where the microbial life thrives is like its own world in between of the mentioned two main polarities of ground and sky. In living topsoil the negative and positive charges interact and are used by fungi and microbes together with the plant roots.
What you are doing when mixing the ingredients for your soil mix and adding enzymes and all that you add is like putting together all the right pieces and the little folks there in the soil take and put them in use. Really inspiring to see your grows and read these threads!

I see you don´t have charcoal as one part of your soil mix. I could imagine it would be.. Is there some reason why not or is it that you haven´t yet just tested as its going all so well without it too?

If you check this link and the pic 3 there: http://www.slideshare.net/mik1999/char2?related=1
It mentions there cation exchange capacity again, interestingly it says that "Biochar appears to be able to strongly adsorb phosphate, even though it is an anion.." and that the mechanism for this process is not fully understood.

This gives very interesting hint how also the cation exchange in the root zone, even though clearly it is ionic phenomenon of electric charges - is not completely and only just it. There also is something finer going on, on a more subtle level.

Yeah man I can only imagine. I'd like to trip out in the forest... never have but I can see myself becoming completely engulfed with nature if I did. It would be so beautiful... hearing each and every bird chirping, seeing every leaf bristle in the wind, smelling the rich decay of old undergrowth blow through the trees... and to think the first time I tripped I locked myself up in a shitty apartment in the city while lying on my bed lol. It could have been so much better now that I think about it...

I don't use biochar, I've been seeing some other heads include it in their no-till mixes but I'm not very informed on it yet - do you think I should add it to my soil mix this month when I fill the new 25 gallon pots?

What should I "charge" it with? I'm curious how that all works exactly...

 

[Team Microbe]

Bio char is highly porous material and that increases surface area. The high amount of surface area in such a small piece of charred wood is what lets it absorb the nutrients you use to charge it with. The porous texture provides an optimal environment to house the microbes which consume the nutrients. That us what gives it the high CEC.

The electrical charges the roots exude stimulate the microbes as they process it which is what gives your soil it's energy or life. You can test and record your ERGS rating by measuring the energy of your soil. The process works in a circle feeding the plant and then the microbes. This cycle builds up and creates a lot of energy or electricity. You can measure this using your ppm meter. You make a slurry and can test ph and ERGS at the same time.

Thanks for that LLB, that clears it up quite a bit for me. So basically it's something of great value to have in your mix, huh?

Do you know anywhere cheap to source this stuff from besides BAS?

 

[Former Guest]

Go look for a nursery. I can buy a lot of things cheaper than BAS. It is the one place I would have to buy coconut water powered, but at the price I choose to get fresh coco water at Costco.

They have a big bag at a place farmers can go to buy stuff for large farms. The guy I see is into Albrecht. So he sells premixed fertilizer to add to your soil. If you're in a city, look for your closest livestock feed store and ask them for a reccomendation. Look in areas that have dairy farms out of the city and soil amendments won't be hard to find. I can PM you the place I get my stuff and they ship if you want me too. My mix does have a little dolomite so I actually dumped the 5 lb bag in our veggie garden. But he sells barley seed by the pounds for cheaper than BAS. You will pay more for the kits. Finding sources for this is fun, satisfying, and cheaper.

 

[Team Microbe]

Go look for a nursery. I can buy a lot of things cheaper than BAS. It is the one place I would have to buy coconut water powered, but at the price I choose to get fresh coco water at Costco.

They have a big bag at a place farmers can go to buy stuff for large farms. The guy I see is into Albrecht. So he sells premixed fertilizer to add to your soil. If you're in a city, look for your closest livestock feed store and ask them for a reccomendation. Look in areas that have dairy farms out of the city and soil amendments won't be hard to find. I can PM you the place I get my stuff and they ship if you want me too. My mix does have a little dolomite so I actually dumped the 5 lb bag in our veggie garden. But he sells barley seed by the pounds for cheaper than BAS. You will pay more for the kits. Finding sources for this is fun, satisfying, and cheaper.

Ok cool, I'll start calling feed stores for some help then. I think shipping across the country would be pricey though, hopefully I can source some locally! Thanks LLB

 

[Former Guest]

I got 50# of rock phosphate for $20. If you ordered enough he may swing you a deal. I'm sure you can find a local place you can get rock dusts for cheap if not free from rock quarries. I think CC talks about where he gets his stuff. Coast of Maine is supposed to have amazing stuff to order too if you're on the east coast. BAS has some cool stuff just I can get most things a lot cheaper. What I really get off on is the fact that if pot stores and csnnabis geared stores were to go away, I can still grow using inputs I find at agriculture stores or in nature. I dunno. Self sufficient in a way.

 

[Hash Zeppelin]

Another excellent thread. Great job team microbe.

 

[Jay Daga]

Thanks for that LLB, that clears it up quite a bit for me. So basically it's something of great value to have in your mix, huh?

Do you know anywhere cheap to source this stuff from besides BAS?

Yeah, charcoal is good thing to have mixed in the soil. Try it if you´re making 25gal mixes this month anyway!
It gives nice good home for microbes and adsorbs nutrients to its almost infinite surface area and releases them in exactly right proportions.

Anyway, the suggested percentage varies when reading different peoples experiences also here on forum. From the slideshare-link i sent, their "universal (potting) mix" is 1/4 soil, 1/4 sand, 1/4vermicast and 1/4 carbonized rice hulls. 25% sounds quite much to me though,, dunno. Maybe you can try different amounts mixed to different containers and see if there is difference in the growth of the plants.

I was thinking for a while, what is the difference between simple charcoal and more complex biomass in general (which is also mostly carbon) that with time becomes compost?
The difference is that biomass is chopped in pieces by biology of the soil but pure carbon in form of charcoal stays in soil forever and becomes permanent part of the soil mix. Maybe these can be called short-term and long-term forms of carbon in soil then... other one cycling around in different compounds and other one just plainly stays as it is.

I saw you use rice hulls in your soil mix. If you have plenty of that and have place outside to do it, it´s very easy to make "carbonized rice hulls".
If you look at the slideshare link that i posted, the instructions there says that you first make fire with wood and when its burning well already, you dump pile of dry rice hulls on the fire,, completely covering it. Then wait that it charrs from inside out and when it "vents" from the sides, you put more rice hulls to cover the blackened hulls so that they don´t burn. It takes for a while but anyway its very easy thing to do, I tried this when visiting Philippines. I did this to three sacks of ricehulls.. after one sack I learned to make more than one pile at once, this made the whole thing quite much faster.

The good thing why to use rice hulls for making biochar is that its readily in small pieces and very good form. Where rice hulls are not available, it´s just as good to buy charcoal meant for barbeque (check only that its pure and only carbon,, briquettes should not be used) and pound bigger pieces of carbon in a bucket with 2" by 4" until powdered enough....

Then, when you have charcoal in small enough pieces, its best thing to inoculate it with all whatever nice microbes and myco spores you want. Some say its best to use composted biochar.
But if you´re going to mix the soil ingredients for your 25gal containers, and let it anyway cook then for some time before planting, that of course does the job, the microbes in the mix and teas you use will colonize the biochar as soon as they find it.. Ecosystems in pots.

You asked "how you should charge it?" or something like that. I did not mean to say anything like that,, my english is not always most clear thing to read, and follows a bit different logic than people´ who speak it as their native language. So misunderstandings happen. There´s no need for charging the biochar in any specific way

By the way,, I mentioned the copper/brass tools in agriculture, check out these: http://www.kupferspuren.at/en.html
I have couple of home made copper tools,, but that kind pro-made tools would be quite nice.
I find it so intriguing that - if it is needed to till the land or use tools even when planting seedlings - when the material of tool is copper (diamagnetic), that doesn´t destroy the networks and homes of microbes in same way like iron would do with its paramagnetic field.. It is so simple thing! all the ploughs should be retrofitted with brass/copper blades.
Link to a book where this thing is mentioned

---------------

Inspired by these your threads and the conversation, I went to market last weekend and bought 1kg of hay meant for rabbits or something, mixed lentils, clover and oat seeds, sprinkled over my 90litres container of soil mix and covered with the mulch. Then put in water some brown sugar, microbe mix and humic acid powder and watered the container...
Yesterday then, I was very happy to see clovers and lentils pushing through the mulch. Seeing new life is so empowering! Can´t wait to plant the santa maria cuttings i have rooting. This mix i have is now on its third round, but I haven´t had same many good things mixed in it like you and I kind of tilled it between the grows - will not do that anymore though. Its about 2/4 coco, 1/4 peat based soil mix and the rest is charcoal, perlite, guano pellets, EM-bran bokashi and mycorrihiza and biomass from earlier grows. I´m still looking for good source for rockdust, and will be feeding the mix with some teas for sure. Let´s see if i manage to start a thread on that grow later..

Sorry if someone gets tired to my always long texts, I don´t know why they stretch always to maratons like this. But it´s not like the space would end anyway any time soon.

Have a nice weekend everyone.

 

[ghostmade]

I love to mixs char into the worm bins thwt im going to let mature about a year.also i put a 5 gal bucket under the worm inn (diy'ed) to catch the run off

 

[Former Guest]

^^thats what CC does^^

I think he also uses dirt to smother the fire.

Biochar
What is Biochar?
First lets clear any confusion and make it really simple – biochar is charcoal. It’s only called “biochar” because it is used for biological purposes. Therefore it’s not like the cooking charcoal or briquettes you buy with all the chemicals in them, it’s just good clean wood-derived charcoal. Now it’s true not all biochar is the same, but this is an introduction so let’s just keep it simple. You can make awesome biochar without worrying about the finer points.

Another thing to remember, while biochar has been gaining a lot of popularity in recent years due to carbon sequestration benefits and new research on it’s biological benefits, using charcoal in agriculture is an ancient practice dating back thousands of years. This is a great natural farming technique that wise old farmers have known about forever. Therefore it has a nice place here on The Unconventional Farmer.

What is Biochar Good For?
I like to cover the high level description and then just dive right into the good stuff. Let’s discuss benefits. Biochar’s benefits come from it’s unique physical and chemical attributes. It is insanely porous – a single gram can have over 1000 sqm of surface area. It is inert, meaning it doesn’t interact with other compounds in the water and soil. It is also indigestible to soil microbes. So basically it doesn’t break down in the soil – it persists in the soil for a long time(thousands of years!) continuing to add it’s benefits, and doesn’t change over time. Those are the two big ones. Let’s look at the factors biochar enhances:

Incredible nutrient holding capacity (as in, biochar+fertilizer outperforms fertilizer alone by 60%)
Aids moisture retention (micropores hold water, dry slowly)
Aids drainage (biochar is inert, so it doesn’t interact with the polarity of water. Drains excess freely)
The above two points together means that biochar soil is buffered against dramatic changes in moisture level (floods/droughts)
Awesome microbe habitat! Bacteria, fungi, and other microbes love populating the moist pores
Brings up the pH of acidic soils, reducing the need for Lime
Reduces fertilization requirements (since it traps and holds fertilizers in the soil)
If that list isn’t enough to convince you, let’s look at a few of it’s environmental benefits:

Carbon sequestration: Biochar traps carbon in the soil for thousands of years, that would normally be pumped back into the air in a very short time through decomposition. This is huge and is a big factor in biochar’s recent popularity
Reduces need for petroleum based fertilizers
Studies show biochar soil produces 50-80% less greenhouse gas emissions than non-biochar inoculated soil
How to Make Biochar
First we need to look at what biochar is: charcoal. Charcoal is just a carbon source that has been heated in the absence of oxygen. Most things in the source like oils, tar, chemicals burn off leaving only carbon. For the Carbon to burn you need Oxygen. But the carbon is what we are after so that’s why we burn it in the absence of oxygen.

Any carbon source should work fine. Some carbon sources that you might find cheap, nearby would be:

Wood chips
Saw dust
Rice hulls
Wheat hulls(?)
Oat hulls(?)
Horse/cow/sheep manure
Wood pellets
Down timber in the woods
Weeds and pest plants
Last year’s garden remnants (corn stalks, etc)
Dried grass clippings
Coconut husks
That gives you an idea what you’re looking for. Any kind of carbon you can think of. Not all carbon sources are the same though. For example, wood pellets are a nicely sized, uniform carbon source. Wood chips would be roughly the free equivalent. Saw dust or dry grass clippings however are very flammable. You’ll have to get creative to make good biochar from those. I haven’t personally made biochar from those sources – I imagine it would help to pelletize them – soak with water and then compress with the heaviest weight you can manage, let dry.

Your carbon sources you are carbonizing need to be dry! Otherwise you’ll have to burn some to dry the rest out to make charcoal – waste.

Now that you have your carbon source you need to cook it. For this part just remember the basics – make biochar by firing a carbon source in the absence of oxygen. This confused me for a long time. “But fire doesn’t burn without oxygen. How are you supposed to build an oxygen-less fire?” Well that is the common mistake of explaining biochar. It does require oxygen, but you need to manipulate the oxygen input a particular way to make good biochar.

Here is how fire works. You have a carbon source like wood. You light it starts to burn. With flames. Consuming oxygen. The burning starts charring the carbon, firing out all the volatiles and leaving carbon only. Now we’re getting charcoal, nice good biochar. But oh no, the fire is still sucking in oxygen, the charcoal is continuing to burn with oxygen! Now its turning to ash, no more nice biochar.

So we need to arrest that burning before it turns everything to ash. So we build the fire, and this time it starts charring but we quickly put it out before it becomes ash. But now just the outside is charred and there are still lots of volatiles in the wood, lots of not really ideal biochar there.

So round 3. We start the fire, and it starts charring the carbon source. But this time we don’t put it out and we don’t allow air in. We put high walls all around the fire so that it doesn’t pull oxygen in, but the smoke still has somewhere to go. We allow oxygen to come into the fire, but only from a single point. This way, the oxygen comes in, the carbon source starts to burn. It gets very hot and uses up all the oxygen. The flames start chasing the oxygen back towards the source, so now its not combusting anymore, but it is so hot still because all the volatile, hot gases are passing over it and out the top. Now it is undergoing pyrolysis – burning in the absense of oxygen.

Now that you know the principles, you can create your own method to make this awesome soil amendment for the garden. But in case you would like some inspiration, check out these different methods to produce biochar:

Fire barrel: take a metal oil drum, turn it over, and cut a 10″ hole in the bottom. Build a fire, then upend the drum on top of it so the hole is in the top. This will be where the smoke exits. Leave 1/4″ gap in the bottom to allow just a little oxygen to feed the fire from below. Now feed your carbon source through the top hole. The whole middle section of the drum will be making charcoal as it burns without oxygen. This would be good for the loose things like loose grass clippings, dry manure, weeds, brush, etc

Philippine chimney: This is how carbonized rice hulls are made in the Philippines. Start with a cylindrical medal bucket like a metal coffee can. Perforate the sides of the bucket with small holes about 1 inch apart. Cut a hole in the bottom and attach a chimney – long cylinder that fits flush to the hole. Build a small fire and put this chimney on top of it so the fire is inside the bucket. Now pile your carbon source all around the bucket+chimney that is sitting on top of the fire. It will slowly char as it burns from within. I suppose the carbon source here is charring due to heat but not combusting because of the lack of open flame.This method is how the small farmer produces this valuable soil amendment here in the Philippines:

Great infographic on the Philippine method of making biochar (carbonized rice hulls)

Thanks to pinoyecofarmer.com for the picture
Earth pit method: This method is useful when you have a ton of wood to make into biochar. There are a myriad different styles of earth pit biochar production. The simplest involves digging a hole, putting a bunch of wood in it, starting the fire, then covering it with soil. From there it gets much more complicated. The method I’ll describe here is pretty simple and hopefully a little more efficient than just digging a hole and starting a fire in it. Dig a trench pit, a rectangular shaped pit. Give it a slope lengthwise so it slopes up to the ground surface. Lay the first layer of logs down lengthwise in the pit, the whole length of the pit. Stack the the second layer horizontal to the first. This creates channels that run the length of the pit on the bottom. Now fill up the pit with the rest of the wood. Once filled, cover the pit with a layer of leaves, then a nice thick layer of dirt. At several places in the pile, you’ll want to install stove pipes through the dirt, to allow the smoke to exit. One way to do this is dig out little channels, about 6in wide, at several places in the side of the pit. Then install pipe where the channel meets the surface (to keep oxygen from getting in). These vents are needed for an efficient burn. Where the sloped pit meets the surface, don’t cover with dirt. That’s where you start the fire. Start a nice bonfire there. It will burn down into the pit, the channel will allow air to come in, and the vents will allow the smoke to escape.
ATTN: Don’t be an idiot and walk on top of the soil while the burn is underway. It could collapse and you’ll fall into a pit of burning coals suddenly exposed to oxygen! Bad bad bad bad bad bad bad…
The keys to efficiency in this system are: try to have uniform sized wood, try to distribute it fairly uniformly with a nice matrix so there is airflow underground as it burns, and don’t skimp on vent number and distribution (just make sure the vents are enclosed where they meet the pile, you don’t want oxygen getting in, just smoke coming out).

Modern barrel method: There are many modern methods but I’ll discuss the TLUD method : Top-Lit Up-Draft. Take a metal can – can be a paint can or an oil barrel, whatever size you need. Punch a lot of holes in the bottom, smaller than whatever you are using as your carbon source. Enclose the top of the barrel in a chimney, but punch some holes in the chimney to help increase the airflow through it. Now prop up the barrel so air can come in through the holes in the bottom. Fill the can with your carbon source right up to the top. Light the material at the top of the barrel. Once you have a little fire going, put the chimney on. The chimney helps keep the top of the barrel low oxygen, and gets the air moving in one direction. The fire will pull oxygen from the bottom, and as it burns, all the area above the flame will be oxygen depleted. The hot gases will continue cooking the char as the burn line continues down to the bottom of the barrel. I’ll include a link to an excellent video demonstrating this method in action. It comes from one of our unconventional farmers, Bryan McGrath. It is one of the best videos I’ve seen explaining how to make biochar.
Watch Bryan McGrath’s Video on Biochar here.

Make your biochar infinitely more effective:
Phew, you’ve finally made some awesome biochar. If you add it to the soil right now though, its not going to do much. In fact, it might even leach nutrients from the soil because it is so effective at trapping molecules in all it’s nooks and crannies. Then over time it will get progressively more effective. Studies have shown dramatic results become apparent on soils that were inoculated with biochar 2 years prior. But we don’t want to wait 2 years! Jeez.

So we’ll give our biochar an amazing head start, and make it effective from day 1. Once you’ve made your biochar, brew up a really nice compost tea. At the very least, you’ll want to pour the compost tea over the biochar. For example say you have an earth pit where you just burned a few cords worth of wood to make a cord or more of biochar. You’d make a batch of compost tea and pour that over the whole thing before doing anything else. I’d make the tea strong then dilute it to make sure you get all the biochar soaked. If you’re working with smaller amounts, I’d get all the biochar in a very fine-mesh bag. Then suspend that bag in the compost tea while it’s brewing. An alternative to compost tea would be BIM. Soak the biochar in a diluted BIM mixture.

Another way to ‘charge’ the biochar is to add the nutrients while it is still hot. Have your nutrient bath ready. It should have BIM along with some fermented extracts for their nutrient value. For example a nutrient bath might contain fish hydrolysate, grow fertilizer, bloom fertilizer, and BIM. Have this bath ready, and when your biochar is finished but still hot, throw it in the nutrient bath. The initial sizzle seals nutrients onto the biochar, making it an excellent slow-release fertilizer. Meanwhile it cools to a point that allows microbes to start populating. Good stuff.

Once we inoculate the biochar with our nutrient/microbe mix, it can be referred to as bio-activated biochar. In the Philippines the common form of this is BCRH – Bio-activated Carbonized Rice Hull. It is incredible stuff!

Biochar Summary
What a great product for the garden and for the environment. Like most natural farming techniques, this has been around for thousands of years. It’s success is proven in the legendary “terra preta” soils of the amazon basin, where biochar created thousands of years ago is still adding tremendous fertility to otherwise nutrient-poor soils. So try this out, have fun, grow some monster veggies and save the planet. Job well done.

 

[Jay Daga]

Aaa,, there´s that "charging" mentioned. Yes, to "soak" in nutrientbrew...
Thanks LLB,, soo informative!

 

[Former Guest]

We put woodstove ashes in the garden. Native Americans would rotate crops and would do controlled burns on the old field to fertilize.

 

[Team Microbe]

Hey folks, not a lot has been happenin over here in the no-till garden - clones are rooting out and seedlings are being popped for the time being. I just got some amendments for my 25 gallon no-till soil in the mail today... the boxes came in pieces though and the mailman had to drop them all off in a USPS plastic crate. So lame. Careless postal workers piss me off lol.

I've been getting into dry sifting lately though, and it's pretty relaxing come to find out. I relate it with raking sand in a zen box, you can just really get in the zone and work on a pile of sift for 20 mins at a time. I've found that the best results are had when nug runs are performed, the flower is frozen, and the sifting process is done in a cold environment. The gland heads really just fall off the stalk when I go all out like this... it usually takes a shot or two to stay toasty out in the -5F garage though. Damn, we're having a cold winter this year!


This is what I pulled off of some Cheesequake x Hollister Kush flower I froze for a day or so...

My scope tells me I still have some work to do, but I was able to get this up to 80%-85% purity last night. It bubbles an begins to melt but juuuust isn't quite there yet. I still see some contaminant in the 60x scope. Not much though, and when you see a cluster of heads just gobbed together in that scope you just feel this big evil grin wash over your face as you rush to your pipe. God damn I love sifting... and to think how much kief I smoked back in the day that was so dirty. It got me high, but nothing like this. Nothing like the clean high you get from even the smallest hit of headies. It's such a beautiful thing, and I think everyone deserves to have this purity of medicine.


On another note, I germinated these Serious 6's this week...

100% germ rate! I'll be turning these into mothers to cut from for this year's outdoor season. I can't wait.

I've heard that half of the plants will have bright pink pistils... & when I saw this bud shot I was pretty much sold:

It's mold resistant, and an early finisher - making it perfect for my short and humid season. I know this is an indoor thread, but I'm a big outdoor guy so this thread will have a little bit of both I'm sure... who's gettin ready for spring?!

 

[blackpulpit]

Hello TM hope all's going well, your new setup sounds like it is going to produce very nicely for you!

Do you have a certain foliar spray "recipe" such as for neem oil or Agsil ?? I have neem oil from BAS and also the Agsil.