If I were to use chlorine with a dead-res in flood & drain, I'd choose an inert media like perlite. With organic matter such as coco, the chlorine will be quickly consumed since it will react with the growing media.
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Snype's Cloning Formula For Root Nubs In 3 Days!
- Thread starter Snype
- Start date
If I were to use chlorine with a dead-res in flood & drain, I'd choose an inert media like perlite. With organic matter such as coco, the chlorine will be quickly consumed since it will react with the growing media.
jointventure420
Member
Hello again Snype,
Had a couple of questions about how you customize your aero-cloners..
Do you change/up size the water pump that comes with the aero-cloner..?
Do you connect the new air pump to the air stones or to the sprayers?
Thank you always for your time and knowledge
JV
Had a couple of questions about how you customize your aero-cloners..
Do you change/up size the water pump that comes with the aero-cloner..?
Do you connect the new air pump to the air stones or to the sprayers?
Thank you always for your time and knowledge
JV
I'm not up to date on the new cloners. I don't know what pumps they come with now but it looks like the pumps keep getting more ghetto. I like the old style water pumps. The Danner Models. The last EZ clone models that I saw, the pumps were just garbage. I'm pretty sure I use a Danner Model 7 for the EZ Clone 60. The other pump that it came with has a weird filter that get's all messed up and losses pressure at times and doesn't allow the sprayers to spray.
As far as Air Pumps, I like to use the General Hydro Dual Diaphragm pump with 4 air stones in a EZ Clone 60.
jointventure420
Member
Thank you for the quick response and information...Do you know what size general hydro air pump you use..? You prefer this brand over the Alta pumps?
Thanks again
JV
Thanks again
JV
The EZ Clone 60 holds 37.9 Liters (10 Gal) of solution. The GH Air Pump is rated at 20L / min. I think they only make 1 air pump but here's the link:
http://generalhydroponics.com/site/index.php/parts/air_water_pumps/dual_diaphragm/
I prefer Alita Style pumps for bigger RDWC systems.
jointventure420
Member
Do you use the same size air stones in the ez cloner as you do in the RDWC system..?
A simple search on google will answer your question.
I searched: "difference between free chlorine and total chlorine"
Here's what popped up:
http://www.fibretechinc.com/tips-ma...-free-chlorine-versus-total-chlorine-in-pools
"Understanding "free chlorine" versus "total chlorine" in pools.
When it comes to chlorine levels in pools, some people may be confused by the different types of chlorine present – and they are also unsure of which type of chlorine to test for in their pool. Swimming pool water generally contains three types of chlorine commonly known as Free Chlorine, Combined Chlorine and Total Chlorine. Free Chlorine is the type that we commonly test for to determine the proper chlorine levels in pool water.
To understand the difference between the three types of chlorine, consider this simple formula: FC + CC = TC. Free Chlorine is the chlorine that is still available to sanitize your water. Combined Chlorine is the chlorine that has already been "used up” sanitizing your water. And Total Chlorine is the sum of the two.
Think of it this way: when a chlorine compound is added to swimming pool or spa water, it reacts with water to form the compounds known as hypochlorous acid and hypochlorite ion. Together, these compounds are known as "free available chlorine” or "free chlorine.” The primary reason for adding chlorine to swimming pool water is to disinfect or kill possibly harmful microorganisms. But once the Free Chlorine has joined with ammonia and nitrogen compounds to form Combined Chlorine, its ability to disinfect is hindered. It actually takes 25 parts of Combined Chlorine to do the work of one part of Free Chlorine. If the Total Chlorine in your pool is higher than the Free Chlorine reading, then the difference between the two represents the level of Combined Chlorine in the water. If the readings are the same, then no Combined Chlorine is present. The Total Chlorine level cannot be less than the Free Chlorine level.
Once you know how much Combined Chlorine is in the water, you have to add about 10 times that amount of Free Chlorine to get rid of it. This overdosing – or super-chlorination – is also referred to as "breakpoint chlorination.”
Ok so I am just going to get the hanna 98121 PH/ ORP meter. I actually talked to a Hanna representative and he said the most accurate measurement of chlorine in water is ORP, as total chlorine and free chlorine can be misleading. So my question is this: considering that a postive MV shows more oxygen potential, how does that compare to your suggestion of .5-1.0 ML ppms for chlorine? Basically, what kind of MV should I shoot for?
I have no idea what MV is. All that I know is that you should have at least 0.5 PPM of Chlorine and not more than 2.5 PPM Chlorine.
My Extech CL-200 measures Total Chlorine.
Hi snype love ur posts very informative,
New on the forum joined as ur posts got me really interested,
The formula u have given for the clones, is the micro for veg and bloom for flower?
But you use both of them all the way from clone to cut?
I use can Aqua so would I use the veg and flower nutes
Thanks
New on the forum joined as ur posts got me really interested,
The formula u have given for the clones, is the micro for veg and bloom for flower?
But you use both of them all the way from clone to cut?
I use can Aqua so would I use the veg and flower nutes
Thanks
I can't tell you anything about Aqua because I haven't used it.
As far as Micro and Bloom from GH, Micro is your Nitrogen and micronutrients and Bloom is your PK with maybe some cal mag. The bottles will tell you what's in it. I can just tell you what works. I use a combination of Micro and Bloom for plants in VEG and flowering. I don't use the VEG because I don't need to. The Micro has all the Nitrogen and Micronutrients that I need. Welcome to IC!
Hey Snype I am wondering what is your opinion on how often you need to change out the Neoprene filters on Cloners. The hydro stores that I all talk to say that you should either change them out every time, or every other time. I just clean mine with bleach or H202 and let them soak in that for 12 hours. I figured that would kill all the bad bacteria. What is your opinion, do you really need to change them every time you go to clone?
I change them out every time. When I use the cloner, I really need those cuts so I don't take any chances. Those neoprenes also seem to shrink over time after being cleaned. I've had problems in the past when I was cleaning them with bleach and they would end up sucking up bleach into the puck and messing up my cuts. Do what works for you though. Back in the day I would use the same ones for a year or more but those pucks were harder than the ones that I see today.
Ok well I just got my Hanna ORP/PH meter today in the mail and I can't stop using it. Once you realize what the milliVolt readings mean then you can tell a lot from the water. First of all plain unfiltered tap water in my city is very clean. I have a little brita faucet attachment and using that actually lowers the mV reading. (I would assume because it is filtering out some of the chlorine? Idk) But the normal tap water is actually very sterile.
But I also tested it on my Turboklone that has been running now over 1 week with your recipe, Snype. I have added a bit of Bleach but not that much. The mV reading was at 130. Very low considering tap water was about 535.
It seems apparent that the reason many people have failure with this machine is that to start off with the water is mostly clean, but as the days go on the water gets more and more anti-oxidized, which makes it more difficult for the plant to develop roots. Even with an air stone that I have in there, it seems most of the chlorine from the tap dissolves away.
To combat this it seems like keeping a steady level of bleach in there is the way to go. (Which is exactly what you said to do, Snype.)
Now the only thing at this point that I don't understand is that if the water that comes out of my tap is at 535 already, and levels exceeding 550 mV has shown to kill most bacteria and should only be used for sterilization, is it wise to add bleach right from the get go or should I only add bleach to the res as it goes near or below ~400 mV?
Basically what I am asking is that since my tap water is so clean already, do I need to add bleach right from the start, or is it better to wait a few days then add 0.1 ml of bleach to keep the resevoir clean?
But I also tested it on my Turboklone that has been running now over 1 week with your recipe, Snype. I have added a bit of Bleach but not that much. The mV reading was at 130. Very low considering tap water was about 535.
It seems apparent that the reason many people have failure with this machine is that to start off with the water is mostly clean, but as the days go on the water gets more and more anti-oxidized, which makes it more difficult for the plant to develop roots. Even with an air stone that I have in there, it seems most of the chlorine from the tap dissolves away.
To combat this it seems like keeping a steady level of bleach in there is the way to go. (Which is exactly what you said to do, Snype.)
Now the only thing at this point that I don't understand is that if the water that comes out of my tap is at 535 already, and levels exceeding 550 mV has shown to kill most bacteria and should only be used for sterilization, is it wise to add bleach right from the get go or should I only add bleach to the res as it goes near or below ~400 mV?
Basically what I am asking is that since my tap water is so clean already, do I need to add bleach right from the start, or is it better to wait a few days then add 0.1 ml of bleach to keep the resevoir clean?
I can only give you advice on use of Chlorine speaking in PPM. Basically, if you have no issues, you can keep a residual level of Chlorine at above 0.5 PPM. So I'd go with 1 PPM Chlorine and add back every 5-7 days or if you're anal you can add back when the Chlorine levels reach 0.5 PPM.
Or if you have problems already, go to 2.5 PPM Chlorine and keep adding back as the Chlorine goes down to 0.5 PPM. If you have issues already, the Chlorine will leave very fast as it's fighting the problems so you will have to keep adding more daily to bring it back up to 2.5 PPM. Once the problems go away, you can go back down to around 1 PPM Chlorine.
Ok so Snype here is a question that I don't know if anybody has asked yet. What is your opinion on using H202 instead of Bleach?
From what I have read the only by-product of h202 is oxygen. I don't know how long it lasts in the resevoir but during that time it creates an incredible amount of bubbles.
Does bleach last longer in the resevoir as compared to hydrogen peroxide?
From what I have read the only by-product of h202 is oxygen. I don't know how long it lasts in the resevoir but during that time it creates an incredible amount of bubbles.
Does bleach last longer in the resevoir as compared to hydrogen peroxide?
