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Slownickel lounge, pull up a chair. CEC interpretation

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led05

Chasing The Present
If you use as much gypsum as most of us I would think k sulfate would be the worst choice of that list. If pH allows k silicate is another possibility

I only push K last 4-5 weeks of flower, when doing so Potassium Silicate is my go to, personally
 

jidoka

Active member
In slow's defense he never said you can't get too much. Calculate the amount.

It's a funny joke but it can confuse new readers
 

slownickel

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With a ph of 5.6 I probably do have some room to use k silicate.

At that pH you need to think about getting some calcium carbonate (carbonato de calcio) into your program, some oyster shells, bone meal, etc... you for sure need calcium.

A soil analysis would be good too...
 

Rolando Mota

Active member
At that pH you need to think about getting some calcium carbonate (carbonato de calcio) into your program, some oyster shells, bone meal, etc... you for sure need calcium.

A soil analysis would be good too...

Yeah I wasn’t being totally accurate, haven’t had a soil test since ammending with calphos, aglime, gypsum etc so probably a little higher now. Still have 6 months to try to improve things before planting.
 

reppin2c

Active member
Veteran
So since this is a soil balancing thread and I've made seemingly endless shots at gypsum....here you boys go.

Hard clay and I'm scratching my head a bit but amendment price went down alot from my prejudgement from an analysis 3 miles down the road. I'm thinking TSP, sulfur, Mn sulfate, Zn sulfate, solubor

Edit about 2" aspen wood chips and either blood meal or oceanic fert
 

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jidoka

Active member
That is hard clay? Flat land? You sure you don't need tile?

Edit...you need anions in that soil to balance the cations. S, P and maybe even NO3. And some carbon to hold them. Gonna screw up your numbers but you need compost. If k goes high (but what can it replace) you could chuck a 50 lb bag of mnso4 on that acre to regulate k uptake.

You got a few yr project here. Get the foliar ready
 
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reppin2c

Active member
Veteran
I know it's pretty crazy. Ya hard clay that when it gets wet your truck sinks to the frame lol. It's semi flat no farm land flat like you guys are used to but there's probably 15' or less elevation in 500x350.

I think I have a plan. Most everything will be on the way by the end of next week. There will be compost, microbes and minerals. I may be the first guy ever to spray snow with humic to get a jump on the season idk.

Edit lots of foliar and anions. I think the mnS was 75 lbs a acre ish. I have to double check to make sure I'm not breaking any rules with quantities. I think I was gonna do Cu in foliar only cuz the fungi are gonna need all the help they can ger

I'm surprised some random dude hasn't suggested gypsum yet though
 

jidoka

Active member
Your serious problem is that EC. Tons of minerals but none of them readily available. You are gonna need a spring starter fert that includes gypsum and P, maybe even a little MAP. You gotta get roots established as fast as possible. Then foliar to drive photosynthesis...exudates to feed microbes, microbes to make those minerals available. This yrs start is gonna be everything.

Read up on hardpans...see if you have one
 

slownickel

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I know it's pretty crazy. Ya hard clay that when it gets wet your truck sinks to the frame lol. It's semi flat no farm land flat like you guys are used to but there's probably 15' or less elevation in 500x350.

I think I have a plan. Most everything will be on the way by the end of next week. There will be compost, microbes and minerals. I may be the first guy ever to spray snow with humic to get a jump on the season idk.

Edit lots of foliar and anions. I think the mnS was 75 lbs a acre ish. I have to double check to make sure I'm not breaking any rules with quantities. I think I was gonna do Cu in foliar only cuz the fungi are gonna need all the help they can ger

I'm surprised some random dude hasn't suggested gypsum yet though

That soil analysis without AA@8.2 is worthless. That Ca is for the great part carbonates.

Without indexed Cu and Mn for that pH you are even in a worse shape than you think. Use a real lab.
 

reppin2c

Active member
Veteran
Jesus bud I wouldn't say it's worthless. Would the AA8.2 worked in this situation? Oh ya. But I seem to be reading it just fine and I think Its gonna work out.

Kinda feel like jidoka has a opinion of a general direction and SN think I should throw in the towel?
 

slownickel

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Jesus bud I wouldn't say it's worthless. Would the AA8.2 worked in this situation? Oh ya. But I seem to be reading it just fine and I think Its gonna work out.

Kinda feel like jidoka has a opinion of a general direction and SN think I should throw in the towel?

Direction is easy. Dosis is the issue.

Yeah, buy a pizza shop.
 

slownickel

Active member
ICMag Donor
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So since this is a soil balancing thread and I've made seemingly endless shots at gypsum....here you boys go.

Hard clay and I'm scratching my head a bit but amendment price went down alot from my prejudgement from an analysis 3 miles down the road. I'm thinking TSP, sulfur, Mn sulfate, Zn sulfate, solubor

Edit about 2" aspen wood chips and either blood meal or oceanic fert

This should be fun.

At 0.53 ppms of boron, you are seriously low in B, dramatically reducing Ca uptake regardless if you apply a truck load of gypsum.

So, how much B you thinking about applying on top of how much gypsum? You really think that Ca at that pH of 8.3 is available?:woohoo:

Doka? Anyone care to chip in? At 2763 ppms of Ca, how much B you gunna put on? Seriously? And remember this is a B pig.

There is no basis to make any numbers on Ca, B, K or much of anything from this type procedure with this high of a soil pH.
 
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