GanjaFarmerNW
New member
Yeah we have recently ordered full uniforms including gloves/boots/lab jackets.
Root Aphids in 2500 plant LEGAL Washington Grow
- Thread starter GanjaFarmerNW
- Start date
GFNW,
I've used Botanigard very effectively. Yeah no peroxide, kills beauvaria. I used it, first as a 30 minute soak to wet the entire* rootball with it, then just watered to plenty runoff about every 7-10 days thru till flush. Plants were totally healthy w/good yield. For a few days after Botanigard apps there was a mildew like smell. It goes away. The beauvaria population grows with repeated apps. There is some fungus germination time. I really would drop peroxide use completely once you start with the Botanigard. Use Botanigard at full strength. It is not an instant kill, contact kill. Fungus infects bug, it stops feeding very soon in the process, dies days later. Fungus propagates by growing on carcass.
I also used Nematodes twice during bloom. Make sure they are fresh. Use the mix of Heterorhabditis and Stein. carpocapse. Buglogical is a good source.
Azasol is IMO the best azadiractin product. Totally soluble, no phytotoxicity, more systemic [being water soluble], similar price, much longer shelf life than the oil based. Easier to use, no oil mess. Good luck. -granger
I've used Botanigard very effectively. Yeah no peroxide, kills beauvaria. I used it, first as a 30 minute soak to wet the entire* rootball with it, then just watered to plenty runoff about every 7-10 days thru till flush. Plants were totally healthy w/good yield. For a few days after Botanigard apps there was a mildew like smell. It goes away. The beauvaria population grows with repeated apps. There is some fungus germination time. I really would drop peroxide use completely once you start with the Botanigard. Use Botanigard at full strength. It is not an instant kill, contact kill. Fungus infects bug, it stops feeding very soon in the process, dies days later. Fungus propagates by growing on carcass.
I also used Nematodes twice during bloom. Make sure they are fresh. Use the mix of Heterorhabditis and Stein. carpocapse. Buglogical is a good source.
Azasol is IMO the best azadiractin product. Totally soluble, no phytotoxicity, more systemic [being water soluble], similar price, much longer shelf life than the oil based. Easier to use, no oil mess. Good luck. -granger
Systemic and soluble don't mean the same thing
ssq.talker
Member
ColoradoOG
Member
nevermind
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Again , you're using the word systemic incorrectly.
Systemic , when used in regards to plant physiology , refers to the ability to transfer travel through the Xylem and Phloem system...
If you guys have jobs in the legitimate cannabis industry , I worry for the future ...
ColoradoOG
Member
Originally i retracted what i said but im gunna rewrite it to an extent because i feel its important and i dont think anyone touched on it.
First off its very clear you are unaware of really what you should do and unfortunately a lot of what your experimenting on is the same approach. All those oil products you mentioned with the exception of azadiatrin products are all designed to smother and suffocate though concentrations might differ they all pretty much work the same.
I really wanted to point out at the fact that with that size you should feel very confident in your methods and you shouldnt have to think let alone ask someone what you should do. You are the one responsible for putting food on the table for everyone and its a very very big burden on your shoulders. This thing sounds cool but you need to also understand that your lack of knowledge could hurt a lot of people in so many different ways and if i was you id be looking at stepping down and allowing someone who does know take charge. Im not bashing on you by any means but sadly you made the mistake of jumping into something your honestly not ready for.
I wish you the best of luck regardless but i hope you at least self reflect and understand what your capable of and what your not and really think about the future.
First off its very clear you are unaware of really what you should do and unfortunately a lot of what your experimenting on is the same approach. All those oil products you mentioned with the exception of azadiatrin products are all designed to smother and suffocate though concentrations might differ they all pretty much work the same.
I really wanted to point out at the fact that with that size you should feel very confident in your methods and you shouldnt have to think let alone ask someone what you should do. You are the one responsible for putting food on the table for everyone and its a very very big burden on your shoulders. This thing sounds cool but you need to also understand that your lack of knowledge could hurt a lot of people in so many different ways and if i was you id be looking at stepping down and allowing someone who does know take charge. Im not bashing on you by any means but sadly you made the mistake of jumping into something your honestly not ready for.
I wish you the best of luck regardless but i hope you at least self reflect and understand what your capable of and what your not and really think about the future.
Backyard farmer,
Yes, I know what systemic means [that Azasol is taken into the plant's system], and it flows thru the plant. There is no legitimate cannabis industry in my state, so you can stop worrying about the future. -granger
Moe Funk
Member
Granger, no! Sorry bro but if you can't use every word in regards to plant science flawlessly you are going to bring us all down man. Please, for fuck's sake study up on your definitions. Take the course at Oaksterdam if you have to this is important stuff!! Everyone knows you gotta be on point with that shit, didn't you take the test to qualify being a grower? You'll never be able to snark on everyone if you don't ace that test. Seriously I don't know how you made it this far. I can help you with it though man pm me.
Best of luck to the OP
Photosynthesis
Member
Here's my 2 cents.
Firstly ditch all of the azaproducts. You need something stronger, cheaper, and more effective.
Bubble up 1 cup of neem meal, 1/2 cup of kelp. and 1/2 cup of alfalfa meal in a 5 gallon bucket. (clearly you will have to ramp this up to your size. Math is your friend
)
Brew it for 36-48 hours.
Soil drench 4 times 3-4 days apart, and nothing in the root zone will survive. 3-4 16oz. beer cups per 5 gallon pot should do the trick.
I would keep doing this once per week for sometime.
For an effective complete knock down spray I prefer orange oil. You can get a 5 gallon bucket for $120. DON'T buy orangeguard. Buy something like this
http://www.ezclean.com/http-www-ezclean-com-product-p-5g-hp-htm-p/5g-hp.htm
4 ozs. per gallon of water soil drenched will kill anything it touches. Throw this into your rotation with the neem tea weekly. Honestly the orange oil alone could do the trick, but at your scale it is better to be safe than sorry.
To help keep your room pest free mix 2 oz. of orange oil 1 oz. of Dr. Bronners per gallon of water, and spray the tops of the pots, tables, floors, whatever you want to. It will instantly kill anything it touches.
I have tested this on Wasps, grasshoppers, caterpillars, fungus gnats, spider mites, spider, aphids, thrips, etc..
Orange oil is the most under-used organic remedies I have ever seen. On a large scale it is one of the cheapest Organic ways to take care of pests.
Technically the 2oz. mixture can be foliar sprayed, but due to burning concerns I do not use it that way.
I have tried it out foliar on outdoor crops of vegetables, and I did get some burn. Not bad, but enough that I would not do it on cannabis.
The above is an economical way that you can rid yourself of pests on the scale you are working.
I thought I would throw in to obviously test all of this on a few plants before you go full blown. I would assume you know that already though.
Firstly ditch all of the azaproducts. You need something stronger, cheaper, and more effective.
Bubble up 1 cup of neem meal, 1/2 cup of kelp. and 1/2 cup of alfalfa meal in a 5 gallon bucket. (clearly you will have to ramp this up to your size. Math is your friend
)Brew it for 36-48 hours.
Soil drench 4 times 3-4 days apart, and nothing in the root zone will survive. 3-4 16oz. beer cups per 5 gallon pot should do the trick.
I would keep doing this once per week for sometime.
For an effective complete knock down spray I prefer orange oil. You can get a 5 gallon bucket for $120. DON'T buy orangeguard. Buy something like this
http://www.ezclean.com/http-www-ezclean-com-product-p-5g-hp-htm-p/5g-hp.htm
4 ozs. per gallon of water soil drenched will kill anything it touches. Throw this into your rotation with the neem tea weekly. Honestly the orange oil alone could do the trick, but at your scale it is better to be safe than sorry.
To help keep your room pest free mix 2 oz. of orange oil 1 oz. of Dr. Bronners per gallon of water, and spray the tops of the pots, tables, floors, whatever you want to. It will instantly kill anything it touches.
I have tested this on Wasps, grasshoppers, caterpillars, fungus gnats, spider mites, spider, aphids, thrips, etc..
Orange oil is the most under-used organic remedies I have ever seen. On a large scale it is one of the cheapest Organic ways to take care of pests.
Technically the 2oz. mixture can be foliar sprayed, but due to burning concerns I do not use it that way.
I have tried it out foliar on outdoor crops of vegetables, and I did get some burn. Not bad, but enough that I would not do it on cannabis.
The above is an economical way that you can rid yourself of pests on the scale you are working.
I thought I would throw in to obviously test all of this on a few plants before you go full blown. I would assume you know that already though.
Actually, systemic means affecting the whole, in any physiological context. The method of action is not necessarily known, just that the affect is not somatic, which is affecting only part, or only one system.
One example;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Systemic_acquired_resistance
"The systemic acquired resistance (SAR) is a "whole-plant" resistance response that occurs following an earlier localized exposure to a pathogen. SAR is analogous to the innate immune system found in animals, and there is evidence that SAR in plants and innate immunity in animals may be evolutionarily conserved."
Systemic whether plant or animal is the same thing. It simply means affecting the whole, it does not define species specific metabolic pathways.
One example;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Systemic_acquired_resistance
"The systemic acquired resistance (SAR) is a "whole-plant" resistance response that occurs following an earlier localized exposure to a pathogen. SAR is analogous to the innate immune system found in animals, and there is evidence that SAR in plants and innate immunity in animals may be evolutionarily conserved."
Systemic whether plant or animal is the same thing. It simply means affecting the whole, it does not define species specific metabolic pathways.
Photosynthesis
Member
I would like to add that the majority of the "master growers" ( I just threw up a little in my mouth) in the "legal cannabis industry" here in Colorado don't have a fucking clue.
There is nothing to worry about at all. I am sure granger can hold is own to a complete group of idiots.
There is nothing to worry about at all. I am sure granger can hold is own to a complete group of idiots.
S
sourpuss
Curious, why isnt nematodes effective? Since im about to use em I wonder why you guys dont? Must be a reason..... not being smart, im a complete noob compared to most of you....
Seriously though?
Way to throw up a Red Herring ....Yes you're correct..Systemic refers to a whole system...in the case of a plant , a Systemic pesticide , is able to travel through the plants WHOLE metabolic system , i.e., the Xylem and Phloem ...
I don't think if you spray the leaves with Azamax , and then you test the soil , you will find Azadatrichin A&B
SirStynkalot
Member
I'm sensing a lot of jealousy.
Please keep your ears closed. Makes my job easier. Knowledge is power and all the power needs to head to Stynky LOL
My uninformed understanding is that Azadiractin isn't usually systemic. I've used it a TON and every brand I've used recommends hitting plants with root drenches and foliar applications depending on the bug you're targeting. If it was systemic you wouldn't need that. Water it in and the bugs croak when they take bites instead of them croakin when they walk on it.
And BYF's got it right. If the rest of WA knows as little as I do then we're all in for quite the trip. Plus the LCB's reopening licensing in November so there's a guarantee that no matter how many drop out there'll be more folks who think "light, water, MONEY" out there to provide competition and tank the concentrates market.
Please keep your ears closed. Makes my job easier. Knowledge is power and all the power needs to head to Stynky LOL
My uninformed understanding is that Azadiractin isn't usually systemic. I've used it a TON and every brand I've used recommends hitting plants with root drenches and foliar applications depending on the bug you're targeting. If it was systemic you wouldn't need that. Water it in and the bugs croak when they take bites instead of them croakin when they walk on it.
And BYF's got it right. If the rest of WA knows as little as I do then we're all in for quite the trip. Plus the LCB's reopening licensing in November so there's a guarantee that no matter how many drop out there'll be more folks who think "light, water, MONEY" out there to provide competition and tank the concentrates market.
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Photosynthesis
Member
The correct nematode can, and will work.
The problem I started to have was to actually receive nematodes that were viable.
It seems as the years have gone on it is harder, and harder to get nematodes that will perform.
I use to use them with 100% kill rate. Now I am lucky to get 25% of them to be viable.
Arbico has a good variety, and they typically can get them to you in a condition that will still benefit the grower.
Photo,There is nothing to worry about at all. I am sure granger can hold is own to a complete group of idiots.
High praise indeed, sir. Thanks.
Orange oil will definitely kill insect and mites. I've used it, but have always had a lot of phytotoxicity. I even tried drenching with different concentrations on test plants, followed by a next day flush, and I concluded that I couldn't rely on it to kill the pests at a concentration that didn't kill or badly damage the plant. Others, may have better luck with different methods of application. It's a great area spray for killing and repelling. -granger
