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question about crumbly wax

K

knubs

Member
hello everyone. recently i've been making a lot of wax. i've also been reading all over trying to learn all that i can about it. ive made some wax that is the awesome crumbly stuff, but recently i havent been able to get that. a lot of my wax ive been making recently is turning out brown and gooey. it's got a slight shine to it that makes it almost look wet. this stuff is of course pretty potent but not as smooth as the yellow crumble.
so really i just want to know what causes the wax to not crumble up and get gooey instead?

my process is just a normal bho extraction with a stainless tube. i evaporate the butane off with a hot pan of water under my extraction pan. after the tane is gone i scrape it all into a pile and keep the hot water pan refreshed with hot water (i've used boiling water and ive also tried never letting the water go over 130 degrees). then i whip the hell out of it for hours until it turns into that goo then i keep whipping and it stays like that.
my material i run is usually bud, but i've done batches with bomb trim too. i use mega plus 5x butane. it is the same stuff that made crumbly wax for me before.
i've tried running different strains. my haze was the one that i made crumble with before but the same stuff is giving me goo now so it's not a strain issue. all my material is quality.

i've done a lot of reading before posting and i cant figure this out. im making batch after frustrating batch trying to master this.
i've heard of a few things that some people say:
fan leaves mixed in
temps too high
too much butane
too much humidity
etc....

so what do you guys think? i'm pretty tired of wasting cases of butane.

Thanks!!
 
M

midwestHIGHS

Member
Veteran
Personally, I'd ditch your old tek and get a electric vacuum pump and metal degassing chamber. If you continue to only use heat to remove the butane, keep a constant temp of around 100F-115F for the oil to stay viscous and let it sit for many hours at that temp untill bubbles stop forming.
 
R

Rowdy420

Member
Screw that wax-it's basically under purged BHO! I personally like the shatter... and it's not that much harder to make. Stop all this whipping non sense!

Good luck, Peace
 
hammalamma

hammalamma

Member
Veteran
Rowdy420 said:
Screw that wax-it's basically under purged BHO! I personally like the shatter... and it's not that much harder to make. Stop all this whipping non sense!

Good luck, Peace
Click to expand...

Nailed it! While it may not have any butane in it anymore it still had some or moisture left in it to make it like that.
:woohoo: Fuck all you haters you don't know shit! No whipping!
 
C

chase

Honestly , it sounds like the quality of your bud or trim to me .Trims fine though.

Wiping is fine ,oil is just as strong wiped or not , but wax is nicer to smoke in my opinion. most of my oil ends up on my fingers ,scraper ... not smoked.
 
M

midwestHIGHS

Member
Veteran
The strength of whipped oil vs non whipped isn't the problem it's the amount of left over solvent trapped within the opaqe wax from whipping it, that is the problem. This is what makes it an undesirable technique for purging and why most choose to bash it.
 
C

chase

midwestHIGHS said:
The strength of whipped oil vs non whipped isn't the problem it's the amount of left over solvent trapped within the opaqe wax from whipping it, that is the problem. This is what makes it an undesirable technique for purging and why most choose to bash it.
Click to expand...


cool ,cool do you mean add isopropyl , & then evaporate?
Just wundering because ,I suspect my bho is still a little off .
 
M

midwestHIGHS

Member
Veteran
Naw, nothing I said had anything to do with using Iso. I was explaining why whipping should not be used as a way to purge butane and why most people hate on the tek.

A two-stage american made vacuum pump rated down to atleast 25 microns, a metal degassing chamber and a lab hot plate or a vacuum oven are whats needed to really purge your bho.

As for using another solvent, I make absolute amber using a second solvent, but my second solvent is pure grain alcohol not Iso. I personally don't use Iso for anything other than cleaning my rigs. Here's the link to jump's thread. Check it out!
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=168388/
:tiphat:
 
K

knubs

Member
midwestHIGHS said:
Personally, I'd ditch your old tek and get a electric vacuum pump and metal degassing chamber. If you continue to only use heat to remove the butane, keep a constant temp of around 100F-115F for the oil to stay viscous and let it sit for many hours at that temp or overnight. Whipping as soon as all liquid butane is gone will only trap butane in your oil, and will yeild you a nice butane filled slop. Purge as I described above and create a clear oil first then if your heart desires whip that into crumbly dry buddar over heat.

:tiphat:
Click to expand...

i plan to get one but i wanted to get a better understanding of wax before spending that much. i am fully aware of the vacuum purge process, but is it always going to create crumbly moon rock wax every time if my oil is good? any issues where i will run into this runny gooey stuff? i hate it when i spend a lot of money and have tons of problems still. and i will definitely try your method of letting it sit. my car should be that temp inside this time of year so i will just try throwing some oil in there for a day before whipping next time. i had a feeling i was locking the tane in because i was whipping for 4 hours.... oh and when you make absolute amber does it come out hard at room temp? i've attempted a couple batches but it still came out a little gooey.


and it's DEFINITELY not the product quality. ive ran A+ buds through and had the same results.
 
touringfunkband

touringfunkband

Active member
You can get the honeycomb wax consistency your looking for with a low heat purge in a vac chamber without ever whipping. Check out Bret1Maverick or Kangol9177 on youtube. Not all wax is whipped nor butane trapped.
 
Norkali

Norkali

Active member
A little bird told me that old trim/bud = shatter/harder oil; fresh = budder/wax/crumble....

Any truth to this?
 
M

midwestHIGHS

Member
Veteran
That little bird would be wrong, fresh material high in THCA will easily yield a more glassy/shatter texture than old material. Old material is usually partially decarboxylated and there for yeilds a less stable oil.
 
B

Bowled

New member
If your stuck on getting that crumble wax defiantly listen to touringfunkband. Check out those videos, and note that when the oil is kept thick and 'deep' (not shallow and spread out on the paper/dish) and vac'd using a low micron vacuum (a powerful pump) it will turn into a waxy honeycomb that crumbles when broken. I think it is Bret1Maverick who shows you how to use the lid of a mason jar and parchment paper to make a 'bowl' for his oil when he vac'd it.
 
K

knubs

Member
i've seen all the vids and read a lot of the forums on vacuum purging. i've been wanting a vac purge system for a while, but i've had a lot of stuff i've had to pay for first (car parts, tickets, etc...). i'm getting to it though. i have the pump, glass chamber, gauge, and vacuum grease i want picked out already.
 
K

knubs

Member
i love this forum but i hate it. every time i start a discussion on an issue i always get great advice but the solution always costs me (but works). haha. such is growing!!
i think i will break down and buy a vac setup. i have been smoking dab after dab on a Ti nail of the runny stuff and it is harsh and the butane upsets my stomach after fat dabs. when i bust out my stash of crumble and drop a chunk on the nail it doesnt make me cough at all and my stomach feels normal like it should after smoking. also my arm hurts from whipping for 6 hours at a time on little batches every week.

here is what i am thinking about buying. please give me some feedback on what you guys think. if you know of anything on my list that can be substituted with something you personally know works well and is the same price or cheaper let me know. i like buying equipment that other people have used and can recommend.

chamber-
http://www.amazon.com/Glass-Vacuum-Desiccator-8-210mm/dp/B002WD6VLK/ref=pd_sbs_indust_14

pump-
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017R95DI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&smid=A8Y9N35ANEOVV

gauge-
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EW0KPY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

hosing-
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00030CZ6Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&smid=A2N6NO8W19JCUN
 
K

knubs

Member
scratch that last post. i found a nice stainless steel chamber with a ball valve, acrylic top, and a gauge built in for $120.
but that is still the pump i am going to order.
 
M

midwestHIGHS

Member
Veteran
Nice find on the uber cheap chamber and thanks for sharing! I would put a glass chamber in a hot water bath instead of directly on your heating element or you could rig up a sparkless lab hot plate inside like gw does. What pump did you end up ordering?
 
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