I've been running my sulpher burner for about an hour for the last 3 nights. I can still see the white residue left from the PM. Will a burner kill spores only or will it completely take the white residue off my leaves? Am I not burning long enough? How long is too much? I have a 4x4 tray in a standard bedroom size.
Powdery Mildew Rx for flowering plants?
- Thread starter Grow Tech
- Start date
agree with bbq. got the sulfume hot box. i had slight issues at the beginning of flower ( dirty clones) and spend the 115 for the unit and ordered the sulfur online because you can't get it in cali anymore without a license, as of like 2 weeks ago or some. i vaporized a half cup for 20 mintes, then an hour, and then finally 2 hours the last time in my 4x8 closet. no more mildew growth although old mildew had to be wiped down with a little h2o2. lowered humidity to 50% with small dehumidifier
You could consider using Neem instead of the Z/Penetrator. It wont turn your pistils red so long as you use a light mix such as tbsp per gallon. If you are afraid of what the stuff could do to your plants you could experiment and use less or just hit a few lower spots to see the babies reactions. It probably wont get rid of all the PM on the first treatment but if you do it a few days later you will probably get rid of all visible PM. Make sure not to put the lights back on until the plants are dry to the touch which takes a couple of hours if you have some light circulation.
Problem with all of this is if your enviornment is prone to getting PM it will probably come back after a week or 2 so you have to tune in your temps and humidity.
gl
The federal organic web site (USDA) has the following article about using both potassium bicarbonate as well as sodium bicarbonate - here
Many of the commercial fungicides used to fight powdery mildew are not only made by the same small group of manufacturers for wholesale (Remedy, MilStop, et al) but then they also repackage these products for the retail market (GreenCure, et al).
You can buy potassium bicarbonate in its pure form at eBay.com and other places. Sodium bicarbonate is best purchased at wholesale stores (Sam's Club, Costco, et al) in the large packages where you have a better chance at getting very fresh product.
HTH
I still think that regular applications of neem seed oil does a far, far better job than the bicarbonates especially when used in conjunction with aerated compost teas.
YMMV
CC
xOOx
Active member
google ' JMS Stylet-oil '
it kills the spores as well as provides 2 weeks of control of you can't eliminated them completely (outdoors). organic, and tested on food crops. more refined and less hot then neem, will not burn leaves that neem may burn. the white stuff on leaf vanishes after application, turns back to green. won't heal any existing damage from delay. the white stuff is where the next generation of spores come from, if you touch it, ya may even get to see it make a puff cloud of spores into the air. they will root on any succeptable strains leaves they hit and start making more PM.. gross
more googling will find it in avail in 1 gallon containers for cheap$ & 1 gallon makes a lot. i think its like approx. 1-2 tbs:gallon of water for an effective spray. follow 'ornamental' use directions for proper mixture on label, rather then farm crop use, unless... you have a farm , lol
edit: if you already did a sulfur burn or used anything that contains captan, you have to wait 2 weeks before you use the above oil. mixing too many treatments in a panic can cause grave damage y0 -- read labels (neem too)
xoox
it kills the spores as well as provides 2 weeks of control of you can't eliminated them completely (outdoors). organic, and tested on food crops. more refined and less hot then neem, will not burn leaves that neem may burn. the white stuff on leaf vanishes after application, turns back to green. won't heal any existing damage from delay. the white stuff is where the next generation of spores come from, if you touch it, ya may even get to see it make a puff cloud of spores into the air. they will root on any succeptable strains leaves they hit and start making more PM.. gross
more googling will find it in avail in 1 gallon containers for cheap$ & 1 gallon makes a lot. i think its like approx. 1-2 tbs:gallon of water for an effective spray. follow 'ornamental' use directions for proper mixture on label, rather then farm crop use, unless... you have a farm , lol
edit: if you already did a sulfur burn or used anything that contains captan, you have to wait 2 weeks before you use the above oil. mixing too many treatments in a panic can cause grave damage y0 -- read labels (neem too)
xoox
planted1
Member
A sulfur burner gets the job done they cost 120 bucks, i use mine every couple months as preventative maintenance, never had any issues. ive Seen it used in the last couple weeks of flower with no ill affects as long as it was run at short increments. humidity also plays a huge part in harboring spores in the air itself, which is obviously not kosher. sulphur and low humidity!!
I googled this and it looks like a very good product. I'm going to add this to my arsenal. Have you used it and what was your success? Can you compare it to anything else that you tried.
xOOx
Active member
yeah.
it's just highly refined oil, its purer then neem...
i've never had to use it on MJ. my strain is resistant to it.
it's the first thing i tried when i discovered powder mildew on an ornamental plant of mine. it does as they claimed. that's why i bought it in the first place after reading their stuff about it. figured i would give it a try and it was cheap for a gallon. there was white powder mildew on the leaves, and it was killing the leaves. crisping them up after a couple days of having the white stuff on it. i remember touching a leaf and seein a poof cloud of mildew spores fly out, and i ordered it. i sprayed, and it just vanished once it got wet. didn't come back. leaves turned back to green shine.
i used it again recently on a plant that had spider mites on it.. to the point where i could see them crawling up and down the stems and had little webs and they were just building their colony up.. it was an ornamental plant also. sprayed it, and they just vanished..as if they melted..webs too. but i may have caught it early not sure.
one time i had a tango w/spider mites wayyy long ago in the past, and it was on a fern like indoor plant. i went to the store and tried an off the shelf product then. that was actually a real pesticide for spider mites, and i remember spraying them, and then after 5 mins i could still see the webs, and they were still actively crawling around back and forth, soaked in the pesticide.. lol. not with the JMS tho.. for mites i'd probably hit them with the JMS and then put in a no pest strip to maintain.
only thing i'd question is using it close to harvest, or it maybe changing the flavor of buds..it says its food safe, its just mineral oil.. it has like a 2 week residual i believe..but i wouldn't hesitate to use it on a veggin plant if i had too.
i haven't had to try anything else, as it was a spur of the moment purchase, and it worked.
xoox
it's just highly refined oil, its purer then neem...
i've never had to use it on MJ. my strain is resistant to it.
it's the first thing i tried when i discovered powder mildew on an ornamental plant of mine. it does as they claimed. that's why i bought it in the first place after reading their stuff about it. figured i would give it a try and it was cheap for a gallon. there was white powder mildew on the leaves, and it was killing the leaves. crisping them up after a couple days of having the white stuff on it. i remember touching a leaf and seein a poof cloud of mildew spores fly out, and i ordered it. i sprayed, and it just vanished once it got wet. didn't come back. leaves turned back to green shine.
i used it again recently on a plant that had spider mites on it.. to the point where i could see them crawling up and down the stems and had little webs and they were just building their colony up.. it was an ornamental plant also. sprayed it, and they just vanished..as if they melted..webs too. but i may have caught it early not sure.
one time i had a tango w/spider mites wayyy long ago in the past, and it was on a fern like indoor plant. i went to the store and tried an off the shelf product then. that was actually a real pesticide for spider mites, and i remember spraying them, and then after 5 mins i could still see the webs, and they were still actively crawling around back and forth, soaked in the pesticide.. lol. not with the JMS tho.. for mites i'd probably hit them with the JMS and then put in a no pest strip to maintain.
only thing i'd question is using it close to harvest, or it maybe changing the flavor of buds..it says its food safe, its just mineral oil.. it has like a 2 week residual i believe..but i wouldn't hesitate to use it on a veggin plant if i had too.
i haven't had to try anything else, as it was a spur of the moment purchase, and it worked.
xoox
All very good info here. I thought I should throw my 
at the issue as well.
After dealing with PM for a while I was searching fro a solution and came across this thread. Based on the reviews, I went with the ZONE + PENATRATOR after trying many other products to no avail.
Now, I am mostly posting here to warn other users. I saw that GREEN CURE was mentioned earlier in this thread. WARNING: Green Cure and then penatrator will FRY your plants. Yeah I know it was probably stupid for me to apply one and then the other but I was desperate to get rid of The PM and wasn't thinking clearly. (it was a couple days between sprays)
Anyway, Long story short: The ZONE works !! Green Cure does nothing.
DO NOT spray with Green Cure and then with Zone even days after. Wash the green cure away with water first.
I ended up doing a side by side test with spare clones to confirm what was causing the burnt plants. No matter how many times I sprayed with ZONE, I didn't get burn. But when Green Cure was on the leaves..........Zone would be the catalyst for burning.
The long story is in the infirmary:
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=111298
A big thanks to Mark ???? for the ZONE method. So far, Its the only thing that works !!
at the issue as well.After dealing with PM for a while I was searching fro a solution and came across this thread. Based on the reviews, I went with the ZONE + PENATRATOR after trying many other products to no avail.
Now, I am mostly posting here to warn other users. I saw that GREEN CURE was mentioned earlier in this thread. WARNING: Green Cure and then penatrator will FRY your plants. Yeah I know it was probably stupid for me to apply one and then the other but I was desperate to get rid of The PM and wasn't thinking clearly. (it was a couple days between sprays)
Anyway, Long story short: The ZONE works !! Green Cure does nothing.
DO NOT spray with Green Cure and then with Zone even days after. Wash the green cure away with water first.
I ended up doing a side by side test with spare clones to confirm what was causing the burnt plants. No matter how many times I sprayed with ZONE, I didn't get burn. But when Green Cure was on the leaves..........Zone would be the catalyst for burning.
The long story is in the infirmary:
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=111298
A big thanks to Mark ???? for the ZONE method. So far, Its the only thing that works !!
B
baccas125
Sovran by BASF chemical seems to work the best for an outbreak. Here is the link http://agproducts.basf.us/products/Sovran-Fungicide/Sovran-Fungicide.asp
ProPlayer420
Member
Two things I use to keep Powdery Mildew off the plants that are susceptible are 1) mix 1 teaspoon baking soda in 1 quart of water, or 2) make a 50/50 mix of fat free milk and water. These are both sprayed every 5 days to control PM on plants already covered or every 7 to 10 days to prevent PM from getting started.
Last edited:
Mold or Mildew....? Either way, I suppose...
It is too late to use a sulphur burner. But nothing works better, in my experience. I have dealt with PM for so long, I had almost given up. Until I burned sulphur, and redid the room , so there were never spills or accumulations of dirt or any other medium.
But It is NOT too late to get a DEHUMIDIFIER in there. Set it to 45% and if you can, get a tube outlet for the water, so it stays on...
Other than that, you only can pull early. The last thing one wants to do, but if it saves a crop, what choice does one have...
Enviornment is the key. And a sulphur burn 1-2 hours a week, until a few weeks before the end. If Botrytis is a problem, your nugs may also be prone. My old ORTEGA was always wanting to show GREY MOLD, from the inside...! YOW.... So, I stopped growing it.
GOOD LUCK....!!!!!!
It is too late to use a sulphur burner. But nothing works better, in my experience. I have dealt with PM for so long, I had almost given up. Until I burned sulphur, and redid the room , so there were never spills or accumulations of dirt or any other medium.
But It is NOT too late to get a DEHUMIDIFIER in there. Set it to 45% and if you can, get a tube outlet for the water, so it stays on...
Other than that, you only can pull early. The last thing one wants to do, but if it saves a crop, what choice does one have...
Enviornment is the key. And a sulphur burn 1-2 hours a week, until a few weeks before the end. If Botrytis is a problem, your nugs may also be prone. My old ORTEGA was always wanting to show GREY MOLD, from the inside...! YOW.... So, I stopped growing it.
GOOD LUCK....!!!!!!
I used 3 in1 by safer it is OMRI certified and can be used up to harvest. I used it in veg up until flower. I then tripled my air circulation and it has not returned. I bought one of those Air King fans WOW the room is now positive pressure. The door is hard to open now from the Pressure plants seem to love it.
Just in case you don't know this.........Do Not Smoke Mold.
If you think your gonna get more and your that close to harvest anyway.......Better to take early than to lose it all to mold.
A dehumidifier will help in the future but it will do nothing for anything your gonna harvest in the next week or 2.
Use the infected buds to make BHO or something.
