Tutorial Organics for Beginners

[BigTex]

Question???

Question???

I am vegging some plants in 1gal pots of LC1 mix. When I go 12/12 I am going to transplant to 3gal pots. I have mixed up LC1 for the 3gal pots, minus the bone & blood meal, for flowering.

To my flowering mix I am adding...

Rock Phosphate 0-3-0
Indonesian Bat Guano 0-10-0

.....for the P in the flowering mix. The guano will break down fairly fast and the rock phosphate will slowly break down. I am adding rock phosphate because I plan to reuse the mix and the rock phosphate will be beneficial on the next run.

How much guano and rock phasphate should I add per cubic foot???

I'm thinking 1cup per cubic foot of each.

 

[SmokinErb]

1st time organic grower, I'm basically planning on using nearly the same thing Phillthy runs. This should be about 45 gallons of mix all together.

Base mix:

1/2 bale Promix bx
1 bag Roots Organic (Phillthy uses FFOF)
8 gallons coarse perlite (I'm not sure Phillthy adds perlite, but I'll be growing mostly sativas)
3 gallons EWC

Nutrient mix:

1 bag of NSPB - Full Life Formula which contains the following:

alfalfa meal
azomite
beneficial bacterias
blood meal
bone meal
diatomaceous earth
dolomite lime
dry molasses
worm castings
greensand
guanos (N, P, seabird)
kelp meal
leonardite
rice flour
yucca

It's a "just add water" formula, and I think Phillthy's results speak for themselves. Sound alright?

 

[mugenbao]

I think Phillthy's results speak for themselves. Sound alright?

I remember Phillthy's mix being a little simpler (at least at one point in time), but his results are certainly inspiring!

[Edited to add] I misunderstood, and didn't realize that the longer list was actually the list of ingredients for the NSPB, which Phillthy has given a solid endorsement to :

the NSPB Full Life Formula increased my yield dramatically. cant wait for it to go on sale!!!

He's got some pretty impressive pictures of his results, and if the NSPB was on sale I'd certainly give it a go!

 

[Holdin']

I've been using an organic "just add water" mix for about a year now, seems to be overall less expensive and quite convenient, when it comes to being a caregiver with another full time job. The only problem I have had with the mix at all has been pH related, which I believe to be a result of not waiting a full two weeks for the mix to marinate... albeit 10 days opposed to 14. Thinking there may be another culprit... temperature. The problem while arise shortly after transplant, then will "self correct" within a week or so.

For the record, mix consists of peat, perlite, and castings for the base, with blood meal, bone meal, kelp meal, alfalfa meal, guano. Lime is also added @ 2 tbsp per gal of mix and the mix is dampened with LK. So pretty much LC mix #1 with the dry fert recipe.

My question is, what is the best temperature to have your mix at while letting it set? I'm curious as to how temperature may affect the situation. It seems like warmer temps would be more favorable. I have searched this thread with no luck, and apologize if it's already been discussed.

 

[FlaDankster]

Between 70-80 degrees i feel is fine.I feel that if that temp works good for building life in a tea it should work (close to) about the same with cooking soil.

 

[Gardengineer]

Hey guys, doing my first couple run in LC Mix. Using LC Mix #2 (Promix) w/ the "water only", dry fert. mix #1.

Sounds like I may be running into something similar to what Holdin' ran into, but I have let the soil cook for several weeks and it gets turned several times in that time span. Soil is kept around 78 degrees at all times stored in closed 50 gal. containers with air flow, soil is kept moist with LK solution. It seems that I get either one of two minor problems, which I have determined to either be a pH issue or a nute burn issue, mainly on bottom leaves, get brown and gradually die off... within a week after transplant, this levels out and the plant continues just fine. Some strains seem to be affected more than others... so far I've ran Sour Diesel, NY Diesel, AK47, and a White Widow X Big Bud cross in the mix... The Sour Diesel shows the least amount of problems, while the NY, AK, and WW/BB seem to have issues 2-3 leaf sets up, not terrible, but is evident. Any comments here would be appreciated.

Also, I jump from the cloner or germed seed in Rapid Rooters to a 3 qt. square pot for 2 weeks, then into 6 gal. containers for about 1 1/2 - 2 weeks to root into the new soil, then they go into flowering. I do a decent amount of LST for the lengthier plants, maybe a topping here or there, and trim the plants about 4"-6" up... at this time the plants are about 16" - 24" when flipped the flowering.

Will the 6 gal. of mix be enough to get them all the way through flowering w/o adding anything? I do have the means of bubbling guano and/or meal teas if needbe.

Also, 5 gal. buckets of water sit out usually 48 hours before use, I've pHed the water at about 7.5 to 7.8... should I organically pH the water down to 6.7?


On a side note, if anyone is familiar with the Moonshine Mix, I've got a good friend running it, followed mixture and liquid nutes (Fish Mix for Veg once and Mother Earth Super Tea once in flower), and he seems to be having some pH issues also... he runs well water which pHs out to about 7.1-7.2 consistently. Should he make some adjustments.

All help is appreciated, first real time in this mix, plants actually seem to like it, just would like to fine tune any small issues before they get bad... 4 patients need medicine.

Thanks!

 

[Holdin']

Hey guys, doing my first couple run in LC Mix. Using LC Mix #2 (Promix) w/ the "water only", dry fert. mix #1.

Sounds like I may be running into something similar to what Holdin' ran into, but I have let the soil cook for several weeks and it gets turned several times in that time span. Soil is kept around 78 degrees at all times stored in closed 50 gal. containers with air flow, soil is kept moist with LK solution. It seems that I get either one of two minor problems, which I have determined to either be a pH issue or a nute burn issue, mainly on bottom leaves, get brown and gradually die off... within a week after transplant, this levels out and the plant continues just fine. Some strains seem to be affected more than others... so far I've ran Sour Diesel, NY Diesel, AK47, and a White Widow X Big Bud cross in the mix... The Sour Diesel shows the least amount of problems, while the NY, AK, and WW/BB seem to have issues 2-3 leaf sets up, not terrible, but is evident. Any comments here would be appreciated.

That indeed is probably the same thing I'm experiencing. Something of a minor pH "lockout." Within days after transplant, problem disappears within a week or so. Which is definitely not nute burn in my situation. Some strains are more affected than others as well. In my garden, Cheese was most affected.

I do believe my problem is from not keeping the mix between 70 and 80. Usually in the realm of 60 to 65. No room in the garden, no room in my house for a big ass bin of medium. Suppose I'll have to make better accommodations. I think your problem is from keeping the lid on, not allowing enough oxygen into the mix. But I could be wrong. Maybe someone with more experience with this type of mix could shed some light....

 

[beta]

.

 

[grapeman]

I do believe my problem is from not keeping the mix between 70 and 80. Usually in the realm of 60 to 65. No room in the garden, no room in my house for a big ass bin of medium. Suppose I'll have to make better accommodations. I think your problem is from keeping the lid on, not allowing enough oxygen into the mix. But I could be wrong. Maybe someone with more experience with this type of mix could shed some light....

Try letting your soil sweeten for a couple of months (vs. a few weeks) before use. It makes a difference.

 

[chibbons]

i can find basically everything i need except for the dolomite lime and the kelp extract.

a post earlier on in the thread suggested using seaweed for sushi as kelp extract, is that alright?

and for the lime, would "Espoma Organic Traditions Garden Lime" be alright? it's pelletized, but someone said i can crush it in a blender.

should i buy a blender to do this? or is the blender alright to use after a couple of cleanings?

 

[TACOE]

Yes to the Garden Lime.. Hitting it with the blender is also a good idea. I think you would be fine if you clean it out good. Just dont tell wifey I told you it was okay. It's just a little rock dust.

The sushi seaweed, I think its called nori, would work as a kelp MEAL substitute. an extract is.. an extract. Just crush up the seaweed. You would use it in a soil mix or (fungal) tea just to be clear.

 

[IE2KS_KUSH]

Re: Organics for Beginners

Dude peaceful valley organic I think is the name they got everything you need shipped to the door.

 

[mad librettist]

Yes to the Garden Lime.. Hitting it with the blender is also a good idea.

yes lime no blender. soak some of that garden lime in water and then tell me if you need the blender.

 

[vonforne]

When you ue a blender it allows you to blend it in the soil mix evenly. Then you wet the mix.

Worked great for me for many many years.

V

 

[mad librettist]

When you ue a blender it allows you to blend it in the soil mix evenly. Then you wet the mix.

Worked great for me for many many years.

V

actually Von, if you think about it the pellets always disperse better than powder. With powder, you can't actually see if it's in clumps.

that's the reason they bother making pellets in the first place!


both ways work, but if you are paying extra for pellets, take advantage of the convenience.

 

[vonforne]

actually Von, if you think about it the pellets always disperse better than powder. With powder, you can't actually see if it's in clumps.

that's the reason they bother making pellets in the first place!


both ways work, but if you are paying extra for pellets, take advantage of the convenience.

Powder will only clump when it is mixed wet. If you mix it a little at a time and dry.....no clumping. And if you do not mix the pellets with the same care you do the powder.....you will have a problem with them also.

They both cost the same.

And that is not the reason they make pellets. Pellets are made for the most part to be released over time into the soil.

That is whay most products are pelleted.

V

 

[grapeman]

Powder will only clump when it is mixed wet. If you mix it a little at a time and dry.....no clumping. And if you do not mix the pellets with the same care you do the powder.....you will have a problem with them also.

They both cost the same.

And that is not the reason they make pellets. Pellets are made for the most part to be released over time into the soil.

That is whay most products are pelleted.

V

10-4. Mix the DL powder (and any other amendments) in the soil/soil-less mix dry. then wet. Pelletized products were designed for large scale mechanical applications or to break down over time in the soil.

 

[mad librettist]

Organics for Beginners

Powder will only clump when it is mixed wet. If you mix it a little at a time and dry.....no clumping. And if you do not mix the pellets with the same care you do the powder.....you will have a problem with them also.

They both cost the same.

And that is not the reason they make pellets. Pellets are made for the most part to be released over time into the soil.

That is whay most products are pelleted.

V

if thats why they are pelleted they fucked up Von! at least over here, espoma pelletized is way more expensive to treat the same volume.

if you get it wet, the clay puffs up and the pellet breaks down.

afaik pelletizing is so you can put it in a mechanical spreader and disperse it evenly.

a cup of pelletized lime does not equal a cup of straight dolomite powder. even in the cup, it's more dispersed.

 

[vonforne]

ML most are not coated clay. They are rather solid pellets made to break down over time.

Here I can get a bag of pulver for € 4.50 and a bag of pelleted lime for the same price. The pulver is 25 kg and the pelleted is 25 kg. Which one contains more of the product for the same price? Pulver. It may be because Germany mines so much Kalk. I have 3 Kalk manufactures in my city........go figure. Water sucks ass here also.....Kalk!!

and yes that is one reason that they are pelleted.......for easier application with machinery.

V

 

[mad librettist]

Organics for Beginners

interesting Von. maybe the espoma should be labeled "prilled"?

anyway, I think most Americans are seeing the espoma stuff. mostly clay with a bit of lime. for the same price you get enough dolomite for a whole bog.

obviously nit something you want to use over and over again with the same batch, or you get clay mush.