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Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
Saponins

Saponins

I must admit that when I do spray my plants (at least once a week or more often) I only use a surfactant when spraying neem or something important. I use (yikes - a non organic product) called "Pro 90". I have a ton on hand and have used this product, or a like product for years in my day job. I did recommend in the post you saw yucca extract to a guy looking for an organic spreader only because I read somewhere you used it and recommend it.

Question CC, do you use the aloe vera juice in your fertigation water when you water your plants? Why? Does it make irrigation more effective in a closed system such as a pot?

If so, I'll have to give that a try.
grapeman

I've seen you and probably others mention 'Pro 90' and since there is a plethora of products with that designation in the name from a number of manufacturers I was wondering if the active agent in the product that you use is something like Nonylphenol Oxyethylene and Siloxane.

RE: Saponins

In the 'Teaming With Microbes' in the chapter on AACT, there is a reference to using aloe vera juice as well as yucca extract as fungai foods. When I was first learning how to brew these concoctions I first used aloe vera juice and later the yucca extract and both of these produced massive amounts of foam. Same with alfalfa meal.

As things turn out, these 3 products contain very high levels of saponins in this order: yucca extract, alfalfa meal and finally aloe vera extract/juice. Saponins produce foam which is why they're used in shampoos, tooth-paste, root beer, film emulsions, mining operations, et al.

Saponins can play a more important role in feeding the microbe colonies in the soil as well as on the plant's leaves, branches and stalk.

When these agents are added to an AACT the turbulence of the water will activate the saponins which results in a lot of foam. Foam which will act as a surfactant or wetting agent depending on the application.

But beyond that, the saponins from these 3 products that we're familiar with provide a high level of nutrients to the plant on several levels - especially alfalfa. While alfalfa meal contains about 1/2 the levels of saponins than say dry yucca root extract, it's also true that the amount of alfalfa meal that is generally recommended for adding to an AACT is 10x the amount of yucca root powder you would want to consider using.

Then there's the amino acids to consider. Alfalfa contains 18 amino acids, yucca extract and aloe vera contain 22 amino acids. And then there are the differences in phytohormones, Vitamins, auxins, et al.

So to answer your question about adding to the water for irrigation - I do apply it 1x per week when I apply a humic acid and chelated mineral product.

When using yucca extract or aloe vera juice it's important to agitate the mix to activate the foaming action for maximum benefit as a surfactant. Probably not so important when added as a soil soak.

Alfalfa requires some special handling - you need to make some kind of alfalfa tea to get the saponins free from the meal. However you get there - fermenting, aerating some in water for a couple of days, whatever - while I think that alfalfa is the best choice (and certainly the least expensive), it's also true that both yucca and aloe vera provide a convenience factor which is why I keep both products on hand.

HTH

CC
 

grapeman

Active member
Veteran
grapeman

I've seen you and probably others mention 'Pro 90' and since there is a plethora of products with that designation in the name from a number of manufacturers I was wondering if the active agent in the product that you use is something like Nonylphenol Oxyethylene and Siloxane.

RE: Saponins

In the 'Teaming With Microbes' in the chapter on AACT, there is a reference to using aloe vera juice as well as yucca extract as fungai foods. When I was first learning how to brew these concoctions I first used aloe vera juice and later the yucca extract and both of these produced massive amounts of foam. Same with alfalfa meal.

As things turn out, these 3 products contain very high levels of saponins in this order: yucca extract, alfalfa meal and finally aloe vera extract/juice. Saponins produce foam which is why they're used in shampoos, tooth-paste, root beer, film emulsions, mining operations, et al.

Saponins can play a more important role in feeding the microbe colonies in the soil as well as on the plant's leaves, branches and stalk.

When these agents are added to an AACT the turbulence of the water will activate the saponins which results in a lot of foam. Foam which will act as a surfactant or wetting agent depending on the application.

But beyond that, the saponins from these 3 products that we're familiar with provide a high level of nutrients to the plant on several levels - especially alfalfa. While alfalfa meal contains about 1/2 the levels of saponins than say dry yucca root extract, it's also true that the amount of alfalfa meal that is generally recommended for adding to an AACT is 10x the amount of yucca root powder you would want to consider using.

Then there's the amino acids to consider. Alfalfa contains 18 amino acids, yucca extract and aloe vera contain 22 amino acids. And then there are the differences in phytohormones, Vitamins, auxins, et al.

So to answer your question about adding to the water for irrigation - I do apply it 1x per week when I apply a humic acid and chelated mineral product.

When using yucca extract or aloe vera juice it's important to agitate the mix to activate the foaming action for maximum benefit as a surfactant. Probably not so important when added as a soil soak.

Alfalfa requires some special handling - you need to make some kind of alfalfa tea to get the saponins free from the meal. However you get there - fermenting, aerating some in water for a couple of days, whatever - while I think that alfalfa is the best choice (and certainly the least expensive), it's also true that both yucca and aloe vera provide a convenience factor which is why I keep both products on hand.

HTH

CC

Thank you kind sir. Your knowledge is insane at times.

here is the label of Pro-90 surfactant. Most others use a product called SM 90. This is a bit different. More of an Ag product then a hydro store product.
Please try not to cringe when reading the ingredients. LOL
 
Last edited:
V

vonforne

grapeman

I've seen you and probably others mention 'Pro 90' and since there is a plethora of products with that designation in the name from a number of manufacturers I was wondering if the active agent in the product that you use is something like Nonylphenol Oxyethylene and Siloxane.

RE: Saponins

In the 'Teaming With Microbes' in the chapter on AACT, there is a reference to using aloe vera juice as well as yucca extract as fungai foods. When I was first learning how to brew these concoctions I first used aloe vera juice and later the yucca extract and both of these produced massive amounts of foam. Same with alfalfa meal.

As things turn out, these 3 products contain very high levels of saponins in this order: yucca extract, alfalfa meal and finally aloe vera extract/juice. Saponins produce foam which is why they're used in shampoos, tooth-paste, root beer, film emulsions, mining operations, et al.

Saponins can play a more important role in feeding the microbe colonies in the soil as well as on the plant's leaves, branches and stalk.

When these agents are added to an AACT the turbulence of the water will activate the saponins which results in a lot of foam. Foam which will act as a surfactant or wetting agent depending on the application.

But beyond that, the saponins from these 3 products that we're familiar with provide a high level of nutrients to the plant on several levels - especially alfalfa. While alfalfa meal contains about 1/2 the levels of saponins than say dry yucca root extract, it's also true that the amount of alfalfa meal that is generally recommended for adding to an AACT is 10x the amount of yucca root powder you would want to consider using.

Then there's the amino acids to consider. Alfalfa contains 18 amino acids, yucca extract and aloe vera contain 22 amino acids. And then there are the differences in phytohormones, Vitamins, auxins, et al.

So to answer your question about adding to the water for irrigation - I do apply it 1x per week when I apply a humic acid and chelated mineral product.

When using yucca extract or aloe vera juice it's important to agitate the mix to activate the foaming action for maximum benefit as a surfactant. Probably not so important when added as a soil soak.

Alfalfa requires some special handling - you need to make some kind of alfalfa tea to get the saponins free from the meal. However you get there - fermenting, aerating some in water for a couple of days, whatever - while I think that alfalfa is the best choice (and certainly the least expensive), it's also true that both yucca and aloe vera provide a convenience factor which is why I keep both products on hand.

HTH

CC

This something I found out simply by accident. We were working on a replacement for Liquid Karma.....in the OFC thread a few years back. We were trying everything in our teas also......stale beer, dehydrated baby potatoes.....etc. and of course yucca extract and aloe Vera extract. Any way I started using this poduct...

96095-15-07_039.jpg


ad I noticed when I used it it would produce this insane white foam even with EWC used a a base for the AACT. I have a picture of that also........

96095-15-07_038.jpg




Alfalfa requires some special handling - you need to make some kind of alfalfa tea to get the saponins free from the meal. However you get there - fermenting, aerating some in water for a couple of days, whatever - while I think that alfalfa is the best choice (and certainly the least expensive), it's also true that both yucca and aloe vera provide a convenience factor which is why I keep both products on hand.

I used most of my Alfalfa applications as a foliar spray. It is my theory that the growth stimulant works best this way.

And alfalfa is only 11.00 per 50# in most states.


V
 

FinestKind

Member
4. I think Pro-Mix HP is a better base then Sunshine #4. Since making that change, I've noticed happier plants.

Not the Pro-Mix BX? If not, why not? It's all I can find around here, so it's what I've been using... I figure some Myco ain't gonna hurt anything.

General question (and a dumb one, at that): What is "AACT" an acronym for? I've seen it used everywhere and am just not sure what it means... I imagine it involves aeration and compost tea...??

Oh, and one more... will an old sock be a good substitute for the pantyhose for making my teas?

FK
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
Thank you kind sir. Your knowledge is insane at times.

here is the label of Pro-90 surfactant. Most others use a product called SM 90. This is a bit different. More of an Ag product then a hydro store product.
Please try not to cringe when reading the ingredients. LOL

grapeman

Of the 4 components, akylphenol ethoxylate, polyethylene glycol, isopropanol and silicone antifoam, it's the first one that is the stand-out. In some forms, not all, some ethoxylates are banned by the European Union for human and environmental concerns particularly to aquatic life. Both plants as well as fish populations.

In the whole scheme of things there are certainly worse in this end of the surfactant market, i.e. non-ionic spreaders.

Yeah - after reading your posts I can't imagine that you're much of a hydro-store gardener/farmer. LOL

CC
 

Madrus Rose

post 69
Veteran
here is another.......
Microbe Organics

x

Nice link ....in the paragraph 1/4 of the way down on diffusers, he recommends the Sweetwater medium bore product . On another thread this week a good Brit made me aware of the Micropore glass bead diffusers which were the "Snizz" & they certainly do look like great diffusers. This author in your link goes on to finish on diffusers with the statement that

"There is no truth (that I have seen) to the statement that fine bubbles damage some microbes.

Which i've understood mainly refers to the Fungal Hyphae ? Have often heard this danger of too aggressive aeration does damage & destroy the fragile bodies of the mycorrhizae. (?) And also read that one should refrain from levels of P over 70ppms also inhibits or effectively stunts the propagation of these fungi in medium/teas. In adding any chemical salt feeding regimes it seems then that innoculating a medium with mycorrhizae would be a fruitless thing if they are so sensitive to these levels of specific nutes .

A "baby pea" in a pod i am , when it comes to organics , any comments appreciated

;)
 
C

CT Guy

Nice link ....in the paragraph 1/4 of the way down on diffusers, he recommends the Sweetwater medium bore product . On another thread this week a good Brit made me aware of the Micropore glass bead diffusers which were the "Snizz" & they certainly do look like great diffusers. This author in your link goes on to finish on diffusers with the statement that

"There is no truth (that I have seen) to the statement that fine bubbles damage some microbes.

Which i've understood mainly refers to the Fungal Hyphae ? Have often heard this danger of too aggressive aeration does damage & destroy the fragile bodies of the mycorrhizae. (?) And also read that one should refrain from levels of P over 70ppms also inhibits or effectively stunts the propagation of these fungi in medium/teas. In adding any chemical salt feeding regimes it seems then that innoculating a medium with mycorrhizae would be a fruitless thing if they are so sensitive to these levels of specific nutes .

A "baby pea" in a pod i am , when it comes to organics , any comments appreciated

;)

You shouldn't be aerating mycorrhizal fungus, so this is a moot point. You're not going to get any from the tea, unless they're in spore form, as they need an association with a root to grow.

Can you repost any links that state otherwise. Thanks!
 

Madrus Rose

post 69
Veteran
You shouldn't be aerating mycorrhizal fungus, so this is a moot point. You're not going to get any from the tea, unless they're in spore form, as they need an association with a root to grow.

Can you repost any links that state otherwise. Thanks!

Ok that sounds good , mycorrhizae isn't really part of the microbal culture were looking to propagate in a brew format , tho there are liquid innoculation products out there now ? Easy to imagine a well brewed balanced tea could enhance the establishing beneficial fungi but had heard any fungi was fragile bodied & wud be destroyed by too much bubbling. The author in the link Von posted says he has noticed most beneficial microbes seem not hurt by aeration like some believe/claim, but like to hear more on this.

Think on the info specs on a bag of Sunshine Mix w/mycorrhizae it stated to refrain from applying phos especially in too high a levels at planting or would hinder colonization . Allowing for no middle of the road here , if one is to go with organic composted mix & teas the balance is there but if one employs the more common Nute/Salt feeding regimes the majority use , then establishing such mycorrhizae in medium (non organic sterile ) moot ...

So stopped using mycorrhizae seeming a waste of money relying as most salt users do supplying higher levels of synthetic or refined salts at fairly high concentrations ...

EDIT: Just found thread --> " [/B]
Do synthetic nutrients kill the microherd?
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=142407
 

SKUNK_DRUNK19

New member
Ok im a first time grower and need some help with my mix.Im only mixing for 6 plants. Im starting from clones.I want a good balance of neuts with out over doin it.This is what i was think on mixing 1/2 bag FoxFarm planting mix (1cbf) 1/2 bag Light Warrior (1cbf) 1/4 bag ancient forest alska humus soil (5lb bag) 1/2 cup happy frog fruit and flower 1/2 small cocobrick (8x4x2) 1 bag of hydrton (small bag 10-15$) is this a good way to mix these togather ??If not what should i do ???I want to get the mix to where all i have to do is ph the water and watch them GROW!!! I see a lot of things that seem so confusing.Im jus trying to keep it simple.
 

Scrappy4

senior member
Veteran
Hey Drunk Skunk, have you read the beginning of this thread? If not do so, I think you will find answers to your questions. Lots of posts (3319 right now) But there are gems in this thread.

I have read all of them at least once and now I'm re-reading the whole list. I go through about twenty pages per day, when I find the time. Lots of very helpfull info in these pages.

Basically any of the of the mixes in the beginning pages would suit you.........scrappy
 

VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
Boutique Breeder
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Ok im a first time grower and need some help with my mix.Im only mixing for 6 plants. Im starting from clones.I want a good balance of neuts with out over doin it.This is what i was think on mixing 1/2 bag FoxFarm planting mix (1cbf) 1/2 bag Light Warrior (1cbf) 1/4 bag ancient forest alska humus soil (5lb bag) 1/2 cup happy frog fruit and flower 1/2 small cocobrick (8x4x2) 1 bag of hydrton (small bag 10-15$) is this a good way to mix these togather ??If not what should i do ???I want to get the mix to where all i have to do is ph the water and watch them GROW!!! I see a lot of things that seem so confusing.Im jus trying to keep it simple.

if you are trying to keep it simple i would leave out the coco - i find that, if used as part f a soil mix, it tends to lock up P and make N more available. i used it for a while and decided to leave it out rather than re-formulate the ferts in the mix.

good luck

VG
 
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