if you use hardwood ash as a potassium source you have the added benefits of the ash such as increased microbial activity, gotta be careful with the ph tho.
Tutorial Organics for Beginners
- Thread starter BurnOne
- Start date
V
vonforne
In this mix I would eliminate the Epsom salt. The amendments you have will carry you through.
With your ratios of Blood and Bone meal I take it you are mixing a flowering mix?
Rock phosphate and Green sand are similar but I would go with the rock phosphate.
CSM is high in N. you could use it as a soil acidifier or a replacement for the blood meal.
Gymsum is hydrated Calcium Sulfate......another source of Ca best used in small amounts.
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vonforne
Vonforne
Another thing to consider about K-Mag (whatever) is that it has a very high oxygen profile - something that you won't find in epsom salt.
Since we're trying to promote aerobic microbes the addition of another source of oxygen is generally considered to be a good thing! LOL
CC
Another thing to consider about K-Mag (whatever) is that it has a very high oxygen profile - something that you won't find in epsom salt.
Since we're trying to promote aerobic microbes the addition of another source of oxygen is generally considered to be a good thing! LOL
CC
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vonforne
I cut out the N guanos about the 2nd or 3d week. The N in the P guano will be enough but it is also strain dependent.
I would not `double up` unless you see a problem.
A good rule of thumb to go be is ......Less is Better.
PSG pellets and your wifes coffee grinder goes great together. LOL
But in water is makes not much of a difference. Only 5% of the guano is water soluble any way. The rest is delivered to the soil surface via watering. Top dressing by proxy.
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vonforne
You are a wealth of info CC. I learn something new from you every time you post. Thank you for all the work you share with us.
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I think you would be better off with this.
http://www.simplici-tea.com/humic_acid.htm
Although I use fulvic in my farming, the above link is a reputable supplier of humics (and other products) at a good price.
Do you use all three? Whats the difference between them? I was going to pick up some LC-10+7, but didn't know if I'd be better off with the SP-85 or SP-90. I'm happy with the foods and fungal compost I bought from them.
T
The Strain Man
forcbay go back and read the thread before you anwser 
and yes I flush organics you dont have to but I do . I just started using k-mag everyone looks happy
and yes I flush organics you dont have to but I do . I just started using k-mag everyone looks happy
T
The Strain Man
I just figured out how to get seabird guano to break down pretty fast just add to some warm water and stir it only took like 10 mins all pellets gone 
3 parts peat moss
1.5 parts fox farm ocean forest
1 part perlite
1 part earth worm castings
10 tbsp of age old grow powder
4 oz geohumus
I wet this mix down with dechlorinated water with a bit of FF big bloom. This mix should be a bit hot for seedlings but this is for a well rooted late veg plant. I have dolomite lime coming in the mail. Ill add some before transplant.
What you think?
1.5 parts fox farm ocean forest
1 part perlite
1 part earth worm castings
10 tbsp of age old grow powder
4 oz geohumus
I wet this mix down with dechlorinated water with a bit of FF big bloom. This mix should be a bit hot for seedlings but this is for a well rooted late veg plant. I have dolomite lime coming in the mail. Ill add some before transplant.
What you think?
I use the sp-90. The LC product looks great, but I am a cheap skate. I am on a kick trying to grow the best I can for the least money. That coupled with the simplicity of the advice from the gurus in this forum makes this fun for me. I use all the expensive chems/nutes/compounds I can in my day job.
Seems the difference is that the LC product is a micro element product with some humic rather then just a humic product. If I'm wrong, maybe CTGuy will weigh in on the product.
I just figured out how to get seabird guano to break down pretty fast just add to some warm water and stir it only took like 10 mins all pellets gone
That's the way I do it. With a plastic water bottle and a bit of shaking, standing and shaking.
Thanks grapeman, I probably should shoot them an email, I wanted to check on the shelf life of LC anyway.
fulvic seems to have nutrient transport benefits. Minor though it is, it is noticeable vs. a control when used properly.
C
CT Guy
Many people use humic acid products in their grows. The quality and % of humic acid per content will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer depending on their mining source and the way they process the material. The nice thing about the SP90 is that it's pretty cheap for being 100% soluble and 90% humic acid by content. Oh, and just because it doesn't list a fulvic % doesn't mean it's not there. The fulvic is part of the product, and in my opinion it's not necessary to use a separate strictly fulvic product.
As for the LC10+7, it's 10% humic acid by content, BUT it's already chelated with 7 essential minerals in the proper amounts. This will allow the minerals to be immediately accessible to the plant and help correct any micro-deficiencies.
As a side note, I gave a sample to JayKush and Clackamas Coot to try out. Both reported positive results over the control, and Jay even sent me some great photos. Granted, by itself it didn't do as well as his plants did with all of his compost and plant extracts and amendments, but it had a noticeable impact on plant growth. (I need to get them on the website for viewing). I figured if I could get JayKush to like a product, then it had to be pretty good!
I use the LC10+7 product and highly recommend it. I went with the lowest usage rate suggested on the product's label and it's applied every week. The chelated minerals that it contains are very important and are seldom discussed in gardening forums.
Humic acids that are viable will contain up to 20% of so-called 'fulvic acid' - a term not allowed in California and Oregon for reasons that remain quite a mystery to soil scientists. Washington state is slated to enact the same restrictions - God only knows why.
Fulvic acids play a completely different role than the humic acid functions.
Here's a couple of graphics to see the differences....................
Properties of Humic Substances
Humic Acids - the fraction of humic substances that is not soluble in water under acidic conditions (pH < 2) but is soluble at higher pH values. They can be extracted from soil by various reagents and which is insoluble in dilute acid. Humic acids are the major extractable component of soil humic substances. They are dark brown to black in color.
Fulvic Acids - the fraction of humic substances that is soluble in water under all pH conditions. They remains in solution after removal of humic acid by acidification. Fulvic acids are light yellow to yellow-brown in color.
Humin - the fraction of humic substances that is not soluble in water at any pH value and in alkali. Humins are black in color.
Here's a graphic on a humic acid molecule:
Here's a fulvic acid molecule:
Humic acid molecules are too large to be absorbed by the plant's leafs which is why you'll see brown spots on the leaves following a foliar application.
Fulvic acid molecules are small enough to be absorbed through the leaf cells and more importantly are able to be taken up directly by the root hairs, i.e. they're small enough to move through the plant's system. Fulvic acids trigger specific DNA responses against pathogens, promote photosynthesis activity as well as moving mineral cations that were fixed in the soil before moving into the plant.
Humic acids stay in the soil where they belong holding onto the 6 positive (+) cations that affect soil pH, mineral absorbtion, etc.
CC
Humic acids that are viable will contain up to 20% of so-called 'fulvic acid' - a term not allowed in California and Oregon for reasons that remain quite a mystery to soil scientists. Washington state is slated to enact the same restrictions - God only knows why.
Fulvic acids play a completely different role than the humic acid functions.
Here's a couple of graphics to see the differences....................
Properties of Humic Substances
Humic Acids - the fraction of humic substances that is not soluble in water under acidic conditions (pH < 2) but is soluble at higher pH values. They can be extracted from soil by various reagents and which is insoluble in dilute acid. Humic acids are the major extractable component of soil humic substances. They are dark brown to black in color.
Fulvic Acids - the fraction of humic substances that is soluble in water under all pH conditions. They remains in solution after removal of humic acid by acidification. Fulvic acids are light yellow to yellow-brown in color.
Humin - the fraction of humic substances that is not soluble in water at any pH value and in alkali. Humins are black in color.
Here's a graphic on a humic acid molecule:
Here's a fulvic acid molecule:
Humic acid molecules are too large to be absorbed by the plant's leafs which is why you'll see brown spots on the leaves following a foliar application.
Fulvic acid molecules are small enough to be absorbed through the leaf cells and more importantly are able to be taken up directly by the root hairs, i.e. they're small enough to move through the plant's system. Fulvic acids trigger specific DNA responses against pathogens, promote photosynthesis activity as well as moving mineral cations that were fixed in the soil before moving into the plant.
Humic acids stay in the soil where they belong holding onto the 6 positive (+) cations that affect soil pH, mineral absorbtion, etc.
CC
NSPB
Active member
Very nice information here on the SP90. Sounds like an EXCELLENT product! I'm going to be looking into this. It honestly seems to be a better product than the one I am currently using, however, I'm not 100% certain that it would be a better usage than a more time released product. I'll have to get some of the SP90 and give it a go.
Are you guys using this specifically to make teas or is this something you are using as a soil amendment?
I currently use: http://leonarditeproducts.com/docs/SourceFinesTDS.pdf
I notice a positive difference using the product in my mix; enough to continue using it...I wonder how much more benefit I can get by perhaps using something that is a bit more soluble...or rather a further refined / processed...
NSPB
Are you guys using this specifically to make teas or is this something you are using as a soil amendment?
I currently use: http://leonarditeproducts.com/docs/SourceFinesTDS.pdf
I notice a positive difference using the product in my mix; enough to continue using it...I wonder how much more benefit I can get by perhaps using something that is a bit more soluble...or rather a further refined / processed...
NSPB
C
CT Guy
I think it works best as a soil drench or foliar application, which can be added to aerated compost teas when applied or applied separately. I haven't seen a lot of the purported biological benefits that it's associated with when I've done testing with a microscope. I believe that chelation is the main benefit.
I also think the LC10+7 is significantly better than the SP90 if you can afford it, but haven't done a side-by-side analysis.
Oh, and the SP90 just had a huge cost jump by the manufacturer, so unfortunately I think the per pound price is going to change soon. The SP85 might be a suitable alternative for powders.
You can fit up to 3 lbs. of the SP90 or SP85 in a flat rate envelope with USPS for 5.80 (3 day shipping), just FYI.
Hope that helps!
I also think the LC10+7 is significantly better than the SP90 if you can afford it, but haven't done a side-by-side analysis.
Oh, and the SP90 just had a huge cost jump by the manufacturer, so unfortunately I think the per pound price is going to change soon. The SP85 might be a suitable alternative for powders.
You can fit up to 3 lbs. of the SP90 or SP85 in a flat rate envelope with USPS for 5.80 (3 day shipping), just FYI.
Hope that helps!
