What's new

Tutorial Organics for Beginners

guest2012y

Living with the soil
Veteran
I added eggshells after I ran a thousand of them through a coffee grinder...worked well.
The dust was pretty..well...dusty. cough cough! (organic eggshells man....far out)
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
seems like eggshells have to be heated to get them started breaking down or something
xmobotx

An expert in the area of using Beneficial Indigenous Organisms has a formula for using egg shells as follows:
Calcium Phosphate

A lot of agriculture advisers have used calcium phosphate for better plant growth, health, pest and disease controls. Natural farmers use this bionutrient very specific. Under the theory of Nutrioperiodism developed by a Japanese horticulturist, Yasushi Inoue in the 1930’s, plants and animals need a very specific nutrient relative to the stage of their development. In the plant, there is the essential vegetative growth , changeover and the reproductive periods. In animals, like humans, there is the infantile, juvenile and adulthood. It is not only critical to provide the right nutrient at the right stage of the development, but also critical to use or apply specific nutrient of calcium phosphate in the juvenile or changeover period. For the plant, for example, we know that nitrogen is critical on the vegetative stage as potassium is critical in the flowering and fruiting stages. It is however, the changeover period that is most critical that will determine the quality of the final reproductive stage. At this stage, an additional nutrient is badly needed by the plant. And this is calcium phosphate. Calcium phosphate is good for plants’ “morning sickness”. It is the stage that additional baby needs to be fed or the process where flower/fruit is about to come. Ash made from soybean stems are excellent for this purpose.

Here is a simple, natural method of generating calcium phosphate. Get eggshells and roast them enough to generate some good ashes. Afterwhich, dip these roasted eggshells on about equal visual volume of vinegar. Allow it to sit for a couple of weeks until eggshells are practically broken down by the vinegar acids. You may use this diluted 20 parts water and can be sprayed or watered to the plants during the changeover period.

When this is applied to that changeover period, it will improve plant health and productivity. The use of calcium phosphate is important to natural farmers. This however, does not mean that we shall forget the nutrient timing application of other critical nutrients for plant growth both macro and micro nutrients, given at the right stages and combinations.

We consider this very important bionutrient needed by the plants used by natural farmers.
You might enjoy reading some of Carandang's formulas at the link I provided.

CC
 
V

vonforne

Hey i'm mixing two, five-gallon buckets of soil right now for some clones i'll have in around 30 days. Now it's 40% compost, 20% FF-happy frog, 20% SSM 1# (70% peat, 15 perlite). and i'm going to pick up some more worm castings to make make the other 20%.

I plan on adding 5 crushed egg shells for calcium, how much epsom salt should i add? In the threads i have read where people have mag. deficiencies the caretakers add it [epson] in water, at 1tsp/gallon, should i just do this? or will it not be available when the plants actually need it?

thanks for whomever helps.

Compost the egg shells or put them into the worm bin. Use dolomite lime in the soil.

Follow the recipe. That is what it is for.

V
 
N

ngen

Compost the egg shells or put them into the worm bin. Use dolomite lime in the soil.

Follow the recipe. That is what it is for.

V


:bashhead: Wow, i havn't read the first page for awhile and didn't notice that that mix is similiar to the LC ones. not to mention I actually thought the dolomite lime was just for PH for awhile, awesome to see it takes care of at least three things.

thanks Vonforme. and xmobotx for putting that fear out of my mind, i just like trying to be on the safe side.


and some really interesting stuff in that link CC.
 
V

vonforne

Ha - and I, over the years, have come to the conclusion that foliar is more effective in the morning (or just after lights on). Of course my conclusions were based on other crops then MJ.

So V, educate me please.

Ok, my take on this after a few years is that the light is magnified by the water on the leaf surface causing damage to the leaf stoma. And also during lights off have you noticed that the R\H goes up? The plants are transpiring moisture. So, in place of the atmospheric moisture or the moisture in the soil, I have placed the moisture on the leaf surface for faster absorption.

But spraying in the morning JUST before lights on......about an hour is a good idea also.
 

intotheunknown

Active member
Veteran
alright, im going to experiment a little, opinions welcome

alright, im going to experiment a little, opinions welcome

well after some thought i decided do some experimenting around with other nutrients and ive been looking into using neptune's harvest
fish and seaweed recipe from the original post. along with lc's soilless mix # 2 with pro mix

is this recipe worth the try? have any of you used it?

also is the maxicrop 5-1-1 a good replacement for the originally recommended neptune's harvest 5-1-1? i dont believe neptune's makes it anymore.

also what is the feeding schedule?
 
Hey, I've been reading on the benefits of chitosan. While I'm going to add some shellfish to my worm bin, I'm wondering what I can do for a more immediate solution. I'm looking locally for some shrimp compost without success so far. I was considering making some shellfish stock(and then soil drenching my plants with it) in the meanwhile- basically putting shrimp, crab and lobster shells in a pot with water and boiling for several hours. I could then put the shells in my worm bin or crush them and use them as a soil additive. Does anyone have any idea if this would work?

I made this a little bit clearer. Just wondering if anybody has any suggestions.

Also, I've been reading about replacing perlite with rice hulls. I know they should ideally be charred, but can I get by with placing them straight into my soil mix without charring them?
 
Ok, i am thinking about using the blood/bone/kelp meal recipe.

There are many slaughter houses around here, and I was referred to one by an organic lawn care company who gets their blood meal in bulk. The owner thinks if I just want a relatively small amount, they will just give me dried blood and bone meal.

I am having a hard time digesting this idea though. These aren't organic cows. God knows what sorts of steroids are in the cows and pesticides in the corn they ate. The blood stream transports these drugs. So, my logic train says, there are bad things in this dried blood and maybe should be avoided.

Then I was thinking that the blood meal that is sold isn't necessarily from organic cows, and might have the same bad stuff.

Question #1) Is the blood meal from the slaughter house safe to use?

Question #2) If the blood meal from the slaughter house isn't safe to use, why is any blood meal for sale safe? What is different?

Thanks.

-L
 
Oh, and one more thing, when you make the tea, do you brew just the dry ingredients for a couple day and then add the molasses, or do you add the molasses in with the tea ingredients?
 
V

vonforne

well after some thought i decided do some experimenting around with other nutrients and ive been looking into using neptune's harvest
fish and seaweed recipe from the original post. along with lc's soilless mix # 2 with pro mix

is this recipe worth the try? have any of you used it?

also is the maxicrop 5-1-1 a good replacement for the originally recommended neptune's harvest 5-1-1? i dont believe neptune's makes it anymore.

also what is the feeding schedule?

Maxi crop is 0-0-1 and is soluble seaweed. Neptunes Harvest is Fish Emulsions 2-4-1. I think you meant Alaska Fish emulsions 5-1-1 and yes you can use Alaska for Nuptunes or the other way around. Use the Maxi crop with either one.

Start out at 1\4 strength and work your way up from there.

V
 

intotheunknown

Active member
Veteran
Maxi crop is 0-0-1 and is soluble seaweed. Neptunes Harvest is Fish Emulsions 2-4-1. I think you meant Alaska Fish emulsions 5-1-1 and yes you can use Alaska for Nuptunes or the other way around. Use the Maxi crop with either one.

Start out at 1\4 strength and work your way up from there.

V


yes maxi crop seaweed is 0-0-1 which is the liquid seaweed.

i did a search for the neptune's 5-1-1 and found that maxicrop makes a 5-1-1 fish emulsion. i however did not find the neptunes 5-1-1, i dont believe they make it anymore.

the only thing neptunes makes that i could get it and is rec. is the 2-4-1.

and i am confused with the measurements for the recipe...
capfull is very vague. do you know exactly what it would equal in TSP or TBSP?
 

grapeman

Active member
Veteran
Just 6 weeks into flower, and my first attempt at the organic thing with LC#2 & dry nutes, I thought I'd post some thoughts and a pic or 2.

These Blue Dreams did not stretch the way I have seen them do in hydro or soil with bottled nutes. I think the reason might be due to the fact that the ingredients used (bone meal, blood & kelp meal) in my soil might not be of high quality and therefore have a bit lower nutrient availability.

They have been getting plenty of Maxicrop kelp in the watering & foliar regimen and an EWC tea about once a week or every 10 days or so, early on, they got the EWC via foliar also. Kudos to MM and CTGuy for their knowledge.

And truth be told, even though I am slowly getting to B1's belief about ph and organics, I have been ph'ing all waterings to 6.3 +/-. Overall, I am thankful to B1 for his easy to follow beginner instructions.

On the plus side, this has been a very easy grow. It appears that the quality and quantity will be above average, as compared to a soil grow with bottled nutes.

There are still 2.5 to 3 weeks left in flower.

The only deficiencies (aside from the questionable quality of the underlying meals used) is an occasional Mg deficiency, easily treated by a few epsom salt foliars and several epsom salt applications in the 2 alfalfa tea waterings I gave 'em. This side did not get the K-Mag in the soil ahead of time, so it was given several doses of Liquid Sulfate of Potash (Aagrand product), and just recently, was given a few applications of "Sulfate of Potash" that I finally obtained as a soluble power. Thank you V and CC.

I used Dr. Earth's Kelp Meal, but the boxes were at least 3 years on the shelf, so not fresh. The bone and blood was "miracle grow" organic meals, I don't think I would use any of these products in the future. I'll be more discriminate in the selection of the bone, blood and kelp meals I mix into the soil in the future.

Critiques and comments welcome.
 

intotheunknown

Active member
Veteran
Just 6 weeks into flower, and my first attempt at the organic thing with LC#2 & dry nutes, I thought I'd post some thoughts and a pic or 2.

These Blue Dreams did not stretch the way I have seen them do in hydro or soil with bottled nutes. I think the reason might be due to the fact that the ingredients used (bone meal, blood & kelp meal) in my soil might not be of high quality and therefore have a bit lower nutrient availability.

On the plus side, this has been a very easy grow. It appears that the quality and quantity will be above average, as compared to a soil grow with bottled nutes.

There are still 2.5 to 3 weeks left in flower.

The only deficiencies (aside from the overall quality of the underlying meals used) is an occasional Mg deficiency, easily treated by a few epsom salt foliars and several epsom salt applications in the 2 alfalfa tea waterings I gave 'em.

I used Dr. Earth's Kelp Meal, but the box was at least 3 years on the shelf, so not fresh. The bone and blood was "miracle grow" organic meals, which I would not use again.

Critiques and comments welcome.


keep doing what youre doing man, theyre looking GREAT!
 

grapeman

Active member
Veteran
Ok, i am thinking about using the blood/bone/kelp meal recipe.

There are many slaughter houses around here, and I was referred to one by an organic lawn care company who gets their blood meal in bulk. The owner thinks if I just want a relatively small amount, they will just give me dried blood and bone meal.

I am having a hard time digesting this idea though. These aren't organic cows. God knows what sorts of steroids are in the cows and pesticides in the corn they ate. The blood stream transports these drugs. So, my logic train says, there are bad things in this dried blood and maybe should be avoided.

Then I was thinking that the blood meal that is sold isn't necessarily from organic cows, and might have the same bad stuff.

Question #1) Is the blood meal from the slaughter house safe to use?

Question #2) If the blood meal from the slaughter house isn't safe to use, why is any blood meal for sale safe? What is different?

Thanks.

-L

My 2 cents, and I am no expert. I am in the middle of a grow with LC#2 with the dry nutes as you refer. I would buy the best quality meals you can find. period.
 

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Just 6 weeks into flower,

man getting the flowers to stack like that is the goal - looks an awful lot like success to me - wait till you sample the smokeage

homegrow organic nugz are the meaning of life - lol

hopefully no one had to starve bro
 
T

treefrog

Critiques and comments welcome.


Welcome to organics!
Once you taste those delicious flowers, It will be a done deal, you'll never go back..

I agree with your comment about getting the highest quality meals too. It's like cooking. If you want the best meal, you need the best ingredients.

Nice flowers!
 
Kelp Meal?

Kelp Meal?

I couldn't find any kelp meal anywhere but I did find some Fox Farms Marine Cuisine - but I am not sure is this a substitute for kelp meal?

Here is the actual product:

51rwYnxQFCL._SS500_.jpg
 

40AmpstoFreedom

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Time release, not organic, and not a good substitute. You want a high potash kelp meal. I prefer maxicrop and order it online.
 
Top