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Off the shelf retail store screw-in LED and CFL bulb comparisons

ScrogMonster

Active member
Veteran
I just thought of something.

Maybe that resistor is used to warm up the bulb a bit for when it's being used outdoors in the winter?

I should put a bulb in the freezer and see if it is dimmer when I first turn it on.

[URL=https://i.postimg.cc/kGL4n4bk/20191104-090638.jpg]View Image[/url]

Electricity flows easier on cold components/conductors doesn't it? Heat actually adds some resistance to them. I remember my electronics 101 teacher saying that. I wonder if there is a professional blueprint/schematics/patent info or what have you... Pdf out there in googleville from one of these manufacturers that explains the different components and their purposes.

StillOvergrowerin- me too man other then poppin the globe off and shock proofing I'm not trying to spend my time rebuilding these things. Ease of use is my favorite part after the light quality and multi directional source/canopy coverage and efficiency.

I thought some where way earlier in this thread there were some people putting the chips on heat stinks and connecting them with drivers.
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
Electricity flows easier on cold components/conductors doesn't it? Heat actually adds some resistance to them. I remember my electronics 101 teacher saying that.

Yea that's true. That's why old school incandescent bulbs almost always burn out when you flip the light on.

But LEDs are different and actually conduct better when they warm up. Then you can get thermal runaway and it gets hotter and hotter until it burns out.

I'm guessing that it works the other way too and if they're really cold they won't conduct as well?
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
StillOvergrowerin- me too man other then poppin the globe off and shock proofing I'm not trying to spend my time rebuilding these things. Ease of use is my favorite part after the light quality and multi directional source/canopy coverage and efficiency.

Yea, I'm just fartin around.

It's only a complete waste of time if it doesn't work or I burn them all out. Lol

I should scan through the thread and see what others did.

My heat sink (cookie sheet) may not be adequate for 50-60 Watts ?
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
Because if you look really close you can see the traces of copper underneath the paint.
All the LED segments were connected in series starting and finishing with the two wires that I connected.

I bypassed all of the circuits on the board and fed 120 DC directly into the series segments of LEDs.





Remember to be careful because there are 120 volts going into the circuit board. (240 V in Europe)
I messed up and soldered a capacitor in backwards and popped it.
They don't quite explode, but they make a popping noise and vent gases.

(PS.. Bob Marley's Exodus was the first album I ever bought in 1978.
I listened to it literally thousands of times and actually wore out the record and had to get a new one, then finally got it on CD when CDs came out around 1982.
It's my favorite album of all time.)



 

PCBuds

Well-known member
Thank god you're finally ditching that 1975 shop-light monstrosity. :biggrin:


Looks like led gardener for the plans and parts list and digikey for the supplies.



Actually sounds like a cool project. :tiphat:


Well, I'm jumping in the rabbit hole.
There's lotsa neat stuff in there!

I watched this video and I'm buying these.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sS7aAcacfgk




Interesting they don't have a lm/Watt rating.
It would read 0.
The plants see it though.


EDIT: I just checked my bank account and I've spent almost $200 in the past two weeks.
I'm gonna wait till next month to spend more money.

Fricken rabbits will rob you blind. Lol
 
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PCBuds

Well-known member
Electricity flows easier on cold components/conductors doesn't it? Heat actually adds some resistance to them.

Okay, I think I finally figured it out.

When the bulb is cold, that resistor conducts electricity better, allowing more current to get it going.

When the resistor heats up it increases resistance and limits current flow to prevent thermal runaway.



 
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f-e

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
DB Diode Bridge
RS Sensing Resistor
F Fuse

The big metal oxide resistor.. I would guess inrush limitation.
 

indagroove

Active member
Veteran
(PS.. Bob Marley's Exodus was the first album I ever bought in 1978.
I listened to it literally thousands of times and actually wore out the record and had to get a new one, then finally got it on CD when CDs came out around 1982.
It's my favorite album of all time.)

Exodus is definitely one of Bob's best, although personally I'm partial to the early years when Peter, Bunny and Bob were The Wailing Wailers.

I’m now starting to see the validity of indagroove’s posts. :comfort:

:plant grow:

Personally I think a mixed lighting system is likely best. I'd like to switch from my 600w hps to a 325w cmh plus 200w of led. The cost of upgrading equipment is a factor tho, and 600w of hps is always solid. 90k lumens
 

repuk

Altruistic Hazeist
Veteran
Well, I'm jumping in the rabbit hole.
There's lotsa neat stuff in there!

I watched this video and I'm buying these.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sS7aAcacfgk

[URL=https://i.postimg.cc/tJZ76Pdr/Screenshot-2019-11-04-10-46-19.png]View Image[/url]

I used XP-G's and XM-L's back in 2012

picture.php
.

I upgraded it with another two heatsinks and 65W of philips Luxeon Rebel ES 660nm Deep Red LEDs, because some hazey sativas won't develop properly... helped a little but nothing to compare with my two SILs.

I still use this HML... but prefer SILs much more: several orders of magnitude cheaper, and easily replaceable; and from experience I'd say current SILs have much better penetration than these (XP-G, XP-E, XM-L, etc).
 
Well, I'm jumping in the rabbit hole.
There's lotsa neat stuff in there!

I watched this video and I'm buying these.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sS7aAcacfgk

https://postimg.cc/n9xHbXP7View Image


Interesting they don't have a lm/Watt rating.
It would read 0.
The plants see it though.


EDIT: I just checked my bank account and I've spent almost $200 in the past two weeks.
I'm gonna wait till next month to spend more money.

Fricken rabbits will rob you blind. Lol


How much would it cost for the strips and a driver?? Maybe $50?

Keeping in mind this is a KISS style project...:biggrin:


That means simple.

and cheap.

Together in the same project. :huggg:


Set up a gofundme or use one of the sciencey donations sites. :tiphat:
Post a thread on your build!!! (or add it here)
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
How much would it cost for the strips and a driver?? Maybe $50?

Keeping in mind this is a KISS style project...:biggrin:


That means simple.

and cheap.

Together in the same project. :huggg:


Set up a gofundme or use one of the sciencey donations sites. :tiphat:
Post a thread on your build!!! (or add it here)

I spoke with blynx and I'm drifting off-topic with my LED strips, so here's a link to my thread:


https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=360946
 

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