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Multi-flow/Ebb&Grow Users: TIPS&TRICKS

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EvilTwin

Hi bluey,
Happy that you're getting some help. I realized that since I;m away from home, all my notes and such on my controller are unavailable. Essentially what I did was to follow Krypto's tutorial on the construction.

I had already purchased the Aquahub E&F kit with all the parts and instructions...but realized one weakness which was that it incorporates using two digital timers. So I combined the two systems and used the Dehl timer like Krypto uses.

Diehl Timer.
You will not find a better price than this site.
Part Number: TA4079
Description: Time Clock, 24Hr, 120V, SPDT 5 Term

http://www.poolandspa.com/catalog/pr...4500000385.cfm


One feature that the Aquhub kit has is a final 5th safety float that is only for flood protection in case of a lower float failure. Here's Krypto's link...

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=6341

I found Krypto's wiring instructions easier to follow but he used a sort-of mickey mouse switch whereas Ogre's instructions use the Aquahub style switches which make more sense.

One little hint is that the magnetic reed switches are very easily damaged by magnetic fields. I accidentally placed mine on a stereo speaker and siezed and ruined them.

Good luck on your project...
ET

PS Here's the Aquahub site. Has some useful info and is a good source for parts. They use a relay base which makes wiring easier.
http://www.aquahub.com/store/diygbuildebb.html
 
B

blueybong

ET ~ that's the same timer(TA4079) I have on order. I also bought the horizontal float switch. So it seems like I have some decent parts on the way.

I'm going to take Mist suggestion and carefully bury the roots in hydroton, which will be overall better for the roots than just hanging freely.

Thanks!!
 
B

blueybong

Oh yea, can someone explain how the four sensors/levelers work?

HLH
HLL
LLH
LLL

Many thanks!!
 
E

EvilTwin

Bluey,
Good morning. Well total understanding probably eludes me. But look at just the top two as an example. The very top one is the shut-off float for the fill pump. Then the lower one of those two turns the fill pump on again. Having two floats gives a "hysteresis" effect. If you just had a single float...the pump would be cycling almost continuously. on and off again and again until it died. So the spacing between the floats is important.
Someone please correct me if I got that wrong.

Also there's a potential problem with the very lowest float. Make sure you mount it high enough to get proper swing. If it bumps into the bucket bottom, well that could create a problem.

And your floor needs to be level and flat...or you need to use blocks to make sure the controller and buckets are on the same level.

Read read read...most of this info is discussed earlier on this thread and on Ogre and Krypto's tut threads.
ET
 
B

blueybong

EvilTwin said:
Bluey,
Good morning. Well total understanding probably eludes me. But look at just the top two as an example. The very top one is the shut-off float for the fill pump. Then the lower one of those two turns the fill pump on again. Having two floats gives a "hysteresis" effect. If you just had a single float...the pump would be cycling almost continuously. on and off again and again until it died. So the spacing between the floats is important.
Someone please correct me if I got that wrong.

Also there's a potential problem with the very lowest float. Make sure you mount it high enough to get proper swing. If it bumps into the bucket bottom, well that could create a problem.

And your floor needs to be level and flat...or you need to use blocks to make sure the controller and buckets are on the same level.

Read read read...most of this info is discussed earlier on this thread and on Ogre and Krypto's tut threads.
ET
Click to expand...

ET ~ I've read through both threads and either really go into how each sensor works, but your explanation does help. My floor is level, so no problems there and I'll keep my sensors away from my speakers.

Oh yea, on the "fill" buckets with the plant inside, does the drain go as low as possible? Seems like it should, but just wanted to check.

Again, thanks!!
Edit: thanks for the low level low sensor placement tip!
 
E

EvilTwin

Bluey,
Some Ebb&Gro users have had issues with the drain cycle leaving an inch of nutrient remaining in the pot after the draIn cycle is complete. Some say it's not a problem. If, once completed, yours does that...you can raise the buckets. Also I personally don't feel that a 100% fill is necessary. At least 2/3s but others may say higher.

Here's a PDF with instructions for the aquahub kit. You may find it useful in understanding the system.
Peace,
ET

http://www.aquahub.com/store/media/EbbandFlowControlInstruxCompressed.pdf
 
B

blueybong

EvilTwin said:
Bluey,
Some Ebb&Gro users have had issues with the drain cycle leaving an inch of nutrient remaining in the pot after the draIn cycle is complete. Some say it's not a problem. If, once completed, yours does that...you can raise the buckets. Also I personally don't feel that a 100% fill is necessary. At least 2/3s but others may say higher.

Here's a PDF with instructions for the aquahub kit. You may find it useful in understanding the system.
Peace,
ET

http://www.aquahub.com/store/media/EbbandFlowControlInstruxCompressed.pdf
Click to expand...

Thanks ET!!!
 
Mist

Mist

Member
I think the reason that some people like to flood at high as at least the top the hydroton in the plant site is because it reduces the amount of nutrient salt build up in the plant site. I have noticed that with mine in the buckets that have a little higher levels of hydroton there is a noticable amout of white residue in the area above the water level where it has been wicked up by the hydroton.
Where as if it the hydroton was at a lower level it would mostly flush back to the resovior on the drain cycle.
And I have found no problems with there being an inch or so in the bottom of the bucket liner, but I also flood every 3 hours for 30 minutes around the clock. Most peope, it seems, don't cycle their system so often and also not during the dark cycle at all. So maybe theirs is getting stagnate. Especially if their temps are high.
 
B

blueybong

Mist ~ when you say:

"holding the plant suspended with the top of the net pot about 3 to 4 inches below the level of the top of the bucket"

So my fill level will be to the top of the net(covered by hydroton)? I'll measure down 4" and then measure up to that point. Then I'll measure up on the controller bucket the same height.

I'm just double checking prior to drilling holes in my controller bucket.

I just spent 2 hours cleaning 1/2 of a 50L bag of hydroton and my back is killing me. Time to burn!! :joint:
 
Mist

Mist

Member
LOL, try 2-3 50L bags like some of us do. It is the only down side to this system though.

What I meant was for you to have the hydroton filled to about 2 inches from the top of the bucket. That being said, you will want to have your roots laying on the bottom of the buckets when you start filling it in with hydroton and then the net cup should end up buried in the hydroton too with about an inch over the top of it which should leave you with about 2 inches to the top of the bucket from the top of the hyroton.

Got it now, LOL!
 
B

blueybong

Got it!!!

Thanks Mist & ET for taking the time to help out a E&G newbie!

Peace!!!
 
B

blueybong

Have you ever had one of those stoned moments when everything is clear

I'm 5 days into 12/12 and I realized that transferring my ladies from one system to another would probably cause unneeded stress. So I'm going to leave them as is and then build this system; get to know it. Then next grow, I'll go from seedling to buds.
 
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blueybong

Mist said:
Yea, they would die if you left them filled with no airstone. What I was referring to was to have the system just be a self filling DWC system with the timer set to fill 24/7 so that as the plants drand up nutrients and the levels dropped the float valve would trip and refill the buckets automatically.
As for hwo often to feed during the dark period, I feed every 3 hours for 30 minutes around the clock. There are many, many varying views on this subject so I don't even want to get into that discussion/argument. Your plants will tell you what they like or dislike. And since this is not a normal setup you will really need to keep an eye on them for signs of over or under watering and check at least half the buckets every day for signs of insects, mold or other pathogens in the rootzone. The air around the bare roots is going to get stagnate very quicly if you don't keep your growroom temps down too. This may be easier as far as feeding the plants, but this will not be an autopilot grow by any means.
Click to expand...

Mist ~ I finally see what you're saying. Instead of stressing the plants via a transfer, why not just flood & drain the DWC:wallbash:

Yes, this is what I'll do for the balance of this grow.



 
B

blueybong

Mist said:
Around your ass to get to your elbow, but we got somewhere I guess. LOL!



:moon:
Click to expand...

Mist ~ as long as I'm learning something new everyday, it's all worth the effort!!!! :smoker:

Here's a pic of my current grow. Day 33 total or Day 6 flowering. Six plants in a 4'X4'X7' tent flowering via a 400W HPS.

Again, thanks!
 
Mist

Mist

Member
Those plants look very nice and lush. You know I was just kidding with you right? I am always learning new things about growing too, so I understand.
 
B

blueybong

Mist said:
Those plants look very nice and lush. You know I was just kidding with you right? I am always learning new things about growing too, so I understand.
Click to expand...

Oh ya! That's why I tagged the green dude burning:joint: Bro, it's all good and you & ET have been great. I'm sure I'll be asking more Q's as I build this system.


 
Mist

Mist

Member
You do know that you can just buy an Ebb&Gro controller by itself and save yourself a lot of time and energy. I don't know what all the parts are costing you, but a controller that is ready to go with pumps and all is only $319.00. After years and year of DIY builds I have learned to appreciate the plug and play setups. In the end they usually end up costing about the same when you add in your time and the gas used on the, almost always multiple, trips to Home Depot.

http://discount-hydro.com/productdisp.php?pid=18&navid=4


Happy Growing.
 
B

blueybong

Mist said:
You do know that you can just buy an Ebb&Gro controller by itself and save yourself a lot of time and energy. I don't know what all the parts are costing you, but a controller that is ready to go with pumps and all is only $319.00. After years and year of DIY builds I have learned to appreciate the plug and play setups. In the end they usually end up costing about the same when you add in your time and the gas used on the, almost always multiple, trips to Home Depot.

http://discount-hydro.com/productdisp.php?pid=18&navid=4


Happy Growing.
Click to expand...

All of the parts, with shipping, cost around $170. Plus it gives me a nice project to build. I too like the plug & play, but this one just seemed to fun not to build.
 
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