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Mk IV A Phoenix Terpenator

Gray Wolf

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So my month old order from Glacier is still not complete, just need the 2" TC heavy duty ball valve, and they still do not have an ETA.

Does anyone know of a solid source for a 2" TC heavy duty ball valve.

You might check with WolfWurx. Todd has some surplus 2" manual valves from kits that were sold automated and would no doubt make you a handsome deal.
 

flatslabs

Member
Thats just what I know as a 3 piece ball valve. The one that brewers hardware doesn't have an image for is similar, but uses a tri-clamp to secure the valve together rather than hex bolts and nuts.

This is what it looks like: https://www.brewershardware.com/images/T/xctmptAzXsB.png

If your primary goal is being able to disassemble the valve for cleaning, I would think that would fit the bill but even the economy valves can be taken apart and cleaned with a wrench, just make sure you are getting PTFE seals.
 

Gray Wolf

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Thats just what I know as a 3 piece ball valve. The one that brewers hardware doesn't have an image for is similar, but uses a tri-clamp to secure the valve together rather than hex bolts and nuts.

This is what it looks like: https://www.brewershardware.com/images/T/xctmptAzXsB.png

If your primary goal is being able to disassemble the valve for cleaning, I would think that would fit the bill but even the economy valves can be taken apart and cleaned with a wrench, just make sure you are getting PTFE seals.

A rebuildable 3 piece valve is a better choice. It affords better control of seat pressure. Dixon example: https://www.dixonvalve.com/search/products?searchTerm[partName]=2-Way%20Encapsulated%20Sanitary%203%20Piece%20Stainless%20Steel%20Ball%20Valve&facet-field[0]=categoryName&facet-value[0]=Valves
 

Fat Thor

Member
I've had my MK4 from Terpp for about a month now and have been doing nothing but extracting my ass off. First off thank you to everyone on here for all the contributions and the ongoing discussions, I'd be stuck in Tamisium-Autobudder hell if it wasn't for you guys!

I have a few questions about columns..... right now I'm fitting about 550-650 grams of material into a 3"x18" column with 2"x3" concentric reducers on each end (2" gasket+screen on each end of the reducers). Im packing tight but I'm not hammering the stuff in there either. (I packed a 1/2lb column with Austin from Terpp during my training session and am packing with the same force he did) Im packing each end with a few pads of stainless steel wool and 3 crumpled up coffee filters on each end. I was under the impression that the 3x18 column was the 1lb size but the only way I can snuggly pack a pound in is if I stuff a ton of stainless steel wool to fill the empty space on each end (mainly all the space the concentric reducers add). When I do a light chop of the material I'm fitting more like 550g, when it is ground up a little finer I'm getting closer to 650g in there. Am I not supposed to be filling the concentric reducers with material and fill their empty space with stainless steel wool instead? I was considering buying some 2" columns to eliminate the need for the concentric reducers but I'm wondering if there is an advantage to using the concentric reducers (better soaking, etc?) By my calculations and messing around with the column calculator on the Terpp site I've been thinking that a 3"x12" column (instead of the 3"x18") with the concentric reducers will fit a pound perfectly. We're trying to do as many 1lb strain specific runs as possible in one day so we'll be ordering atleast 8 column sets that hold 1lb. Before I spend all the money on a bunch of 3x12 columns (i already have (16) 2"x3" concentric reducers and HP clamps) I was wondering if I should go with a few 2"x36" columns for the 1lb size instead? Thank you in advance! On another note i should be getting my Haskel recovery pump in any day now to replace the two promax pumps I'm using as a temporary solution. We'll be running the Haskel on a 7.5HP compressor so it will be running at 75% until our bad ass 15HP 3-Phase compressor gets in. I'll keep you guys updated as that project progresses.
 

Gray Wolf

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A 2" column will be more efficient and you will have less un-used butane to recover at the end of the process.

If you have bidirectional flooding, you can replace the concentric reducers with end cap reducers.

Filling the dead space with stainless wool works.
 

Chonkski

Member
Man, I gotta note. Column heat is a must for 4" columns!

Ran 4 (4"x32") columns yesterday, and lost about 2 pounds of butane after the day was over.


I was wrapping warm damp washcloths around the columns, and I kept switching them out. They were about 100°f, but that was just not enough.

The first time I ran 1 column this size with no heat added, I lost almost a pound! To 1 column!

It looks like I'm going to have to get over my weird fear (or laziness) of the silicone heating mats.
 

JColtrane

Member
^ this is exactly why I stick to 3"x36" columns ... however I'm usually the last in the lab cuz I gotta run more tubes. Damn those double edged swords!!!

I have seen top down flood work quite nice on a 4" ... Gotta have a feel for the 2" ball valve to make this tech work imo. My homie's seem to have it down
 

Chonkski

Member
^ this is exactly why I stick to 3"x36" columns ... however I'm usually the last in the lab cuz I gotta run more tubes. Damn those double edged swords!!!

I have seen top down flood work quite nice on a 4" ... Gotta have a feel for the 2" ball valve to make this tech work imo. My homie's seem to have it down

Thanks for the input JColtrane! it's actually funny you mention that, I have been experimenting a little with the top shower method too. And it definitely helps. I got it to where I'm losing the least amount of tane after trying several different methods of flooding/showering.

Yeah, I feel the same way about the 3"x36". Although, I have quite the pile to tackle right now. And it's material that's only worth a quick run through.. So I'm stuck thinking that I will get through it quicker with the larger columns.

I would like to think that the heat mats will solve my problem of losing that much though, no?
 

Gray Wolf

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Man, I gotta note. Column heat is a must for 4" columns!

Ran 4 (4"x32") columns yesterday, and lost about 2 pounds of butane after the day was over.


I was wrapping warm damp washcloths around the columns, and I kept switching them out. They were about 100°f, but that was just not enough.

The first time I ran 1 column this size with no heat added, I lost almost a pound! To 1 column!

It looks like I'm going to have to get over my weird fear (or laziness) of the silicone heating mats.

We heat the columns to 150F, and recover them separately from the pot.
 

Pangea

Active member
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Is the chance of recovering oil laden butane increased with recovering the column separately?

I'm kinda stumped on the separate recovery procedures as well.

I am just waiting on hoses and some fittings before I can get to work, month or two behind schedule.
 

Permacultuure

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Man, I gotta note. Column heat is a must for 4" columns!

Ran 4 (4"x32") columns yesterday, and lost about 2 pounds of butane after the day was over.


I was wrapping warm damp washcloths around the columns, and I kept switching them out. They were about 100°f, but that was just not enough.

The first time I ran 1 column this size with no heat added, I lost almost a pound! To 1 column!

It looks like I'm going to have to get over my weird fear (or laziness) of the silicone heating mats.

A heat gun or hair dryer can help if you dare. We started doing top shower on 4x36, in the hopes to use less butane in the total extraction.

With the right material those four tubes should put out anywhere from 1-1.5lbs of oil, for 2lbs of butane, and thats conservative. Thats fantastic in my book.

We sacrifice the 2lb loss per machine per day (worst case scenario) in the interest of time. No brisk heat mats over here yet either.
 

HG23

Member
Hey Perma,

Can you explain a little more about your reasoning for using the top shower to conserve solvent. Does the initial bottom flood have too much soak time?
 

Chonkski

Member
A heat gun or hair dryer can help if you dare. We started doing top shower on 4x36, in the hopes to use less butane in the total extraction.

With the right material those four tubes should put out anywhere from 1-1.5lbs of oil, for 2lbs of butane, and thats conservative. Thats fantastic in my book.

We sacrifice the 2lb loss per machine per day (worst case scenario) in the interest of time. No brisk heat mats over here yet either.

Ok, thanks! I've been dabbling with the heat gun but now Im looking for the efficient and or lazy solution :) I'm really glad you chimed that one in because part of me was thinking it was pretty good as well. I will just have to start refilling a bit more often than I'm used to, and plan for the brisk heat solution soon enough..

Gosh I wish I was getting that kind of yield right now! Unfortunately (and it may sound like im bullshitting) I'm getting about 2%-5% yields right now from this trash duff. After winterizing and filtering twice with the second being through the whatman #1..

Leaves me with about a quarter lb at the end of a 4 large column day, or week I should say with all the extra steps.

It's kind of a long story as to why I'm the trash man right now. But it is what it is. Not much of a choice.
 

Permacultuure

Member
Veteran
It will help you refine your craft Chonski!! I've been there and it can be a painful battle.....

HG23 when doing a bottom flood I would need to use 22lbs of butane to fully extract a 4x36 generally speaking. Since utilizing a top shower I use about 15lbs. I'm not stuck on this top shower it's just nice to change things up sometimes. And right now speed is the priority. No matter how hard we work the pile just gets bigger.
 
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