Looking for guerillas with leaf spot diease experience.

[StrapAssassin42]

Well.... i had a complete freeze out....everything is dead....it got down to 26 degrees one night, i covered them and they seemd to survive...checked 10 days later and they are all dead. Gona have a shit load of hash but otherwise a total loss. Blight was a problem but was still gona have a good harvest...highly dissapointing but lesson learned.

Autos was my answer for next year but after Ronbo's last post it sounds like im pretty well fucked for growing outside!! Every 10 days or so is all i feel comfortable checking on my plants and with humidity routinely above 70% mold is inevitable.

A steady helping of greencure doesn't do the trick Ronbo? I suppose if it was that simple it wouldn't be a problem.

I wish everyone a happy harvest!!

 

[ronbo51]

Where I lived in northern New England you really had to be done by Oct 1. We had 18 inches of snow once on Oct 10. Short afghan indicas were the rule. Now people push it and grow all kinds of shit up north. It's a tough environment. Even though its sunny the sun is low in the sky and has no juice. Sounds like a bad year for many. Sorry.
How about all the guerrilla gold strains?? It's a nice middleground between autos and the full season strains. People say its knockdown strong, tough, likes the cooler northern climate. You can veg it supposedly under 24/0 light for increased yield. For some reason the GG doesn't get talked about much here, but I have read plenty and if I still lived up north I would be running some crosses of it for sure.
A couple days ago there was some Manitoba Medicine on the bay in the fundraiser section. Cheap too.
I would try it but rumor is that it sucks in heat and where I live now we get long runs of 90's. Also sucks indoors.

 

[watchuthnknbout]

nvm

 

[StrapAssassin42]

guerilla gold?? never heard of it....brand name or strain name?

 

[ronbo51]

If I knew how to link I would. SmokeAlot seeds is at seedbou. They are the GG guys. It is a strain from Canada. It has a history and lineage that is well known to northern growers. Tons of crosses. It is semi-auto, or light sensitive. It sometimes goes right to flower when you put it out, sometimes vegges for a while, but always finishes way early. Late August, early September. It might beat the late mold blues and it might have leaf spot resistance too if not grown too far south. Like I said, if I was still north I would run that. A lot of hybrids just can't finish. There just isn't much solar power from here on out.

 

[StrapAssassin42]

Very cool ronbo! I'm definitely looking into that...thanks for your input!

 

[GAME]

I dunno boys. There's been much talk about various products to use for combating leaf spot (LS), but I'm sticking with Eagle 20. I have seen firsthand, nothing but good results. My plants had LS a fair amount and there was significant leaf loss throughout the bottom of the plant. I applied and it immediately ceased. The already damaged portions of the plant were still done for (nothing will actually reverse damage), but very little, if any, new leaf spot spread. It stayed this way for approximately 30 days and with increased rain and humidity I noticed it creeping back in on a few plants. I applied a minimal amount at the very onset and it again immediately ceased spreading. My plants are all now very healthy and far along into flowering. My harvest has been saved and LS is not currently an issue until next year when I will apply it every 21 days starting in June.

I have sampled buds that have had Eagle 20 applied to it and there is no detectable taste or residue whatsoever. I have also noticed that all of the plants that I last applied it to have not had a single bud on the plant with gray mold (bud rot) since it also provides protection against that as well. The only ones with bud rot were Mau Fresas that were not hit with Eagle 20 a second time since they were pretty late into flowering at that time.

So I dunno guys, for me, I could continue to waste my time, money, and effort with other stuff that have seemingly washed out other peoples grows, barely helped them whatsoever, or had them lose a large portion of their harvest....... or go with Eagle 20 and harvest lbs of solid bud guerrilla style.......... rather than ounces. I dunno that's just me and I enjoy harvesting actual bud....... not growing monsters and watching them waste away. Best of luck !

 

[bbrandon888]

What are some plants you can grow that dont catch this leaf disease.?

 

[StrapAssassin42]

What are some plants you can grow that dont catch this leaf disease.?

the million dollar question brother!! give me a strain with blight resistance and can withstand freezing temps.... i'm golden!!

Any suggestions???!!! Lol

Not trying to make fun of you bro...just had a rough summer with blight and lost the entire crop to a hard freeze.... there are some strains that do better than others but i have a feeling that it has more to do with vigor than resistance.

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

What are some plants you can grow that dont catch this leaf disease.?

Sensi Star has about a 40-50% resistance. Its doesnt catch the disease as fast as some strains and responds better than any other strain ive grown to treatment. It has for 3 years been the last plant to catch the disease and basically the least harmed by it. But dont misunderstand, ive had 2 stars die from it. So while it does have some resistance, the key word is "SOME".

Of 15 or so strains ive grown since it showed up SS is the only one thats shown ANY resistance at all. On the other hand, ive had some strains catch it and die almost immediately regaurdles of what was done. Dinafems hash plant, Biddy Early, himilayan Gold and several others were terribly succeptable and when the strain got the fungus it was nearly 100% fatal. Others such asGH white widow seemed to get the disease easily but responded well to treatment

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

Ive reconsidered my final evaluation over the last 2 weeks and Game, buddy i would consider the approach ive taken.

I used Immunox multi purpose by Spectricide. It is the same chemical as Eagle 20,(Microbutanil) but Eagle20 is 20% of the chemical. Immunox is 1.5% of Microbutanil. My first application was 1.5 ozs per gallon and the chemical did seem to stop the disease. A week or 2 later, again it seemed the disease was comming back so i hit them again with the immunox and a few days later, an application of Liquid Copper. That killed the disease on my plants even though they were FULLY involved with the disease.

There is no question in my mind that if i had hit the plants late july with 2oz of immunox per gallon, and a second app 10 days later followed by an app of Lc the disease would have been killed and the plants would have remained unharmed. Because i waited until the plants were fully involved with the disease, the Immunox was not as effective or as fast as it would have been if i had hit them hard before the disease appeared or even shortley after its appearance. The more involved the plants are with the disease, the harder it is to control or kill

By the time i made these final discoveries it was too late. AS game says, you cant reverse the damage once its been done.

SIDe note: The reason i know the immunox worked is because in late Aug when i decided i had to do something else, i sprayed 2 plants that i thought were essentially dead from the diesease with immunox. Most of the plant had already defoliated with vegetation existing only on the branch tips and the very top. The plants were devestated and i had every expectation that they were dead and it was far too late in the disease to help the plants at all. I was so convinced that they were hopless that i didnt even go back to check to see if they had survived.

Yesterday, i went by the 2 plants and my mouth fell open. They actually survived. clealy the immunox had killed the disease because these raggedy scruggs wouldnt have survived another week had i not applied it. Igot 1.5 ozs off of each 7' plant.

The IMmuox is safe afther 14 days but we waited 21 and have tested it extensively. No taste or effect. The stuff works

 

[GAME]

Ive reconsidered my final evaluation over the last 2 weeks and Game, buddy i would consider the approach ive taken.

I used Immunox multi purpose by Spectricide. It is the same chemical as Eagle 20,(Microbutanil) but Eagle20 is 20% of the chemical. Immunox is 1.5% of Microbutanil. My first application was 1.5 ozs per gallon and the chemical did seem to stop the disease.



Yes, but when you mix Eagle 20, you don't measure in ounces, you measure in ml. So yeah, myclobutanil is the same active ingredient and may be much stronger in Eagle 20, but when you need merely 10 ml for every five gallons as opposed to using 1.5 oz's of immunox for every one gallon, it all balances out D.S. Regardless, yeah, same active ingredient. I agree with you and believe myclobutanil is great against leaf spot.

 

[StrapAssassin42]

I used the Immunox on my indoor grow and it worked great for about a week or so... similar results to Doc...a second application did little to nothing. Now that its gotten colder my humidity is below 40% and has effectively knocked out the disease.

I fully expect it to be an issue next spring... i plan to hit my veg with Eagle 20 at the first sign of the disease. My brother used Eagle 20 to rid himself of powdery mildew... one application, no disinfection required, no more mildew. I hoping for similar results on the fungus... i'm very confident it will be my end all (for indoor anyway).

Doc... doesn't your plan of using the Immunox contradict your theory of hitting your plants hard to avoid the disease building a resistance? Wouldn't a couple applications of Eagle 20 fare better against the disease than 4 applications of Immunox?

I'm pretty sold on Eagle 20 but always value your opinion Doc.

 

[ronbo51]

Eagle 20 is not rated for anything consumable. It is a landscape and turf spray. I would spend some time this winter getting the lowdown on it before using it.

 

[KSP]

Always read the label

Always read the label

Eagle 20 is not rated for anything consumable. It is a landscape and turf spray. I would spend some time this winter getting the lowdown on it before using it.

Wrong. First page of the label reads: "A systemic, protectant and curative fungicide for disease control in established turfgrass, landscape ornamentals, greenhouse and nursery ornamentals, apples, stonefruits, and grapes".

Start reading on page 11: Home Orchards, Vineyards, or Fruit Trees. I'm with Game on this one, why dick around when you can knock it down and out?

http://www.cdms.net/ldat/ld6DG005.pdf

 

[StrapAssassin42]

Never during flowering tho!

 

[KSP]

Never during flowering tho!

Why is that? I think Green posted that also, but I can't find any rationale for it. It's probably a moot point anyway, because by flowering time the Eagle should have done it's thing. Just curious because the label says it can be applied to apples and grapes up to two weeks before harvest, and for stone fruits up to the day of harvest.

 

[bbrandon888]

Would disease resistance strain be resistance against this leaf disease.?

 

[StrapAssassin42]

Why is that? I think Green posted that also, but I can't find any rationale for it. It's probably a moot point anyway, because by flowering time the Eagle should have done it's thing. Just curious because the label says it can be applied to apples and grapes up to two weeks before harvest, and for stone fruits up to the day of harvest.

Well... i guess thats more of a personal preference... the organic guys hate the idea of Eagle 20 or anything like it for that matter and thats who i learned about it from. Was instructed to use it as only a last resort and never during flowering. Not to mention the fact i just don't like spraying anything on my buds!

 

[KSP]

Well... i guess thats more of a personal preference... the organic guys hate the idea of Eagle 20 or anything like it for that matter and thats who i learned about it from. Was instructed to use it as only a last resort and never during flowering. Not to mention the fact i just don't like spraying anything on my buds!

I feel the same way, don't like to spray anything on my flowers, and likely would not spray the Eagle20 in flower. I think it's moot anyway, because by the point, after using the Eagle20, there shouldn't really be any problems. Thanks man.