They look okay; obviously a very different cultivar from mine, which originated in Manitoba. I'd push it till you see a little fade if possible and run out in the middle of the night when it starts raining.
Local materials
- Thread starter Microbeman
- Start date
They look okay; obviously a very different cultivar from mine, which originated in Manitoba. I'd push it till you see a little fade if possible and run out in the middle of the night when it starts raining.
Klompen
Active member
wow 600K for a LOT????? Wow you could buy my whole neighborhood, houses included for that sort of money.
context my boy; pesos
Rico Swazi
Active member
me run?
They better hurry up with the fade
The Jack Herer is catching up fast lollypooping herself
me run?
They better hurry up with the fade
The Jack Herer is catching up fast lollypooping herself
View Image
I get a lollipop when I get my flu vaccine.
Puny humans; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0tLbl5LrJ8
Rico; In answer to your inquiries about my plan for the CBD issues and LEDs We have structured a little steel frame with translucent roof but thus far no walls and 2 LED boards hung with 240 watt total consumption.
The idea with leaving out walls is to allow entry of friendly bugs and wind; also light of course The lights come on adding in 5 hours of light giving a total 17.5 hours daily.
In the small pots on the table are the planted cuttings from the previous posts; also my experiments with the compost; and a tray full of sprouting alfalfa for lawn turf.
[btw the compost burned the tips of the cannabis seedling leaves, the alfalfa seedlings yellowed a wee bit; however the tomato seedlings faired great] My general conclusion is 3 months was insufficient to produce stable compost from the materials used; onward we go.
The plan is to have the greenhouse sortof area to keep mothers and start CBDs to keep them in veg until a decent size to send to the other yard for flowering [fruitset]
The other morning to my horror, I discover thrips on my transplanted cuttings so powdered them with diatomaceous earth. The next day I sponged most of the residual powder off and later noticed I may not need to repeat the process as I spotted a tiny Rove beetle eating the eggs. You can still see the stain from the DE.
The idea with leaving out walls is to allow entry of friendly bugs and wind; also light of course The lights come on adding in 5 hours of light giving a total 17.5 hours daily.
In the small pots on the table are the planted cuttings from the previous posts; also my experiments with the compost; and a tray full of sprouting alfalfa for lawn turf.
[btw the compost burned the tips of the cannabis seedling leaves, the alfalfa seedlings yellowed a wee bit; however the tomato seedlings faired great] My general conclusion is 3 months was insufficient to produce stable compost from the materials used; onward we go.
The plan is to have the greenhouse sortof area to keep mothers and start CBDs to keep them in veg until a decent size to send to the other yard for flowering [fruitset]
The other morning to my horror, I discover thrips on my transplanted cuttings so powdered them with diatomaceous earth. The next day I sponged most of the residual powder off and later noticed I may not need to repeat the process as I spotted a tiny Rove beetle eating the eggs. You can still see the stain from the DE.
For no special reason I have plantain (herbal) companion plants which seems good.
My Panama red is putting out flowers and I'm disappointed to not see the beauty colors. Perhaps it was the cross I did with Tims that brought out the color or maybe future plants. I'll try getting some of my seeds back from my F1.
There is decent trichome coverage though
My Panama red is putting out flowers and I'm disappointed to not see the beauty colors. Perhaps it was the cross I did with Tims that brought out the color or maybe future plants. I'll try getting some of my seeds back from my F1.
There is decent trichome coverage though
Some friends;
T
Teddybrae
Planting time here. Long time very dry but the little green leaf spiders are all about at present. Seems they only need dew to survive and do their thing. (Ours hop along. What about yours?)
That green spider is not a hopper but we have lots of small hopping spiders of various colours.
T
Teddybrae
Worm Cast Soil
Worm Cast Soil
Now I know there's a worm thread and if this post does not suit here I 'll ask a Mod to shift it.
I made a 200 litre (50 US gals) drum into a worm farm. I half filled it with basalt soil (prone to compacting) mixed with 3mm gravel to loosen it. Then I introduced worms and fed them for 12 months on kitchen scraps, sugar cane mulch and Dolomite. I emptied the drum's contents out the other day, removed the worms to a new farm, and the 'soil' in the following picture is the result:
The 'soil' is 'clumpy'. It breaks up easily but seems lightly glued together as if Humates were added. Seems to me this won't be a problem when I mix it through untreated soil in my pots.
What I 'm wondering is: what percentage of this worm soil should I add to my pot soil?
Worm Cast Soil
Now I know there's a worm thread and if this post does not suit here I 'll ask a Mod to shift it.
I made a 200 litre (50 US gals) drum into a worm farm. I half filled it with basalt soil (prone to compacting) mixed with 3mm gravel to loosen it. Then I introduced worms and fed them for 12 months on kitchen scraps, sugar cane mulch and Dolomite. I emptied the drum's contents out the other day, removed the worms to a new farm, and the 'soil' in the following picture is the result:
The 'soil' is 'clumpy'. It breaks up easily but seems lightly glued together as if Humates were added. Seems to me this won't be a problem when I mix it through untreated soil in my pots.
What I 'm wondering is: what percentage of this worm soil should I add to my pot soil?
Hey Teddy. It is difficult to advise you without really knowing the constituents of your material.
I have something similar which is super dense vermicompost mixed 1:2 with peat moss and basalt at about 12 to 15% to the volume.
I call this a combined drainage and nutrient component and use it at 15% in a soil mix.
T
Teddybrae
Yes, MM ... "super dense" is what it is. And I see how useful it could be mixed with peat moss.
I have lots of Coco. Could I use this instead of Peat Moss?
Seems to me a good idea to begin with a low percentage which I can always increase if necessary.
The learning is in the doing after all.
Thanks!
I have lots of Coco. Could I use this instead of Peat Moss?
Seems to me a good idea to begin with a low percentage which I can always increase if necessary.
The learning is in the doing after all.
Thanks!
I prefer peat though coco will work. I concern myself more so with density than with the percentage. Castings can be mucky and overly dense if not cut.
'Boogieman'
Well-known member
Another batch of biochar is ready for my worm bins. I had very good luck growing guerilla this year with my vermicompost/biochar mix. I mix 40% into native soil with a small amount of peat moss. I think biochar is perfect for guerilla growers who can only visit a few times a month, growth was exceptional and only slowed down after a few weeks without water.
Attachments
'Boogieman'
Well-known member
I can't find my post. I dig a v shaped hole roughly 3-4' wide and 2 1/2-3' deep and start a fire with twigs and small pieces of wood. I keep adding wood to keep a flame and often smack down the fire to disperse the burning coal evenly. I use fallen tree branches on my property which is oak, maple, and black locust. Towards the end when the hole is filling up with red coals I use smaller, thinner pieces of wood so it doesn't take long to finish. Once it's almost full of red coals I cover it up with compost for a minimum of a couple hours, usually I cover it up at night and pour water through it in the morning. Then I crush it into smaller pieces and mix it in my compost worm bedding at about 25-30% and add more as I add worm food.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAGegQIJRAB&usg=AOvVaw3d93zxa2IurkBJdeHeGMBK
