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Led lights still on 5% when timer off

X15

Well-known member
Is that like a multiple power surge thingy .. so like 4 lights can go on at same time ?
Yeah but you don’t need to have that many plugged in. I actually use a 4 lighter controller and only have one light plugged in, and in the port above it I plug in the Light Mover. So as some as the timer kicks on the controller switches on and powers both the light and the Mover at the same time.
 

Rastafarout

Well-known member
Premium user
I have one somewhere but thought those are for higher setups , is the light mover getting the job done ?
 
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X15

Well-known member
I have one somewhere but thought those are for higher setups , is the light mover getting the job done ?
They are just a more reliable way to turn the light on and off. The electrical current that powers the light never passes through the timer, so you save wear and tear on the timer function. It’s a lot safer too, in comparison to running 600watts at 4amps or whatever (just hypothetical here) through a small timer. Light controllers have a trigger cord, and that trigger cord plugs into the timer which sends a smaller electrical signal to the mechanical magnetic function in the controller which ultimately closes and opens the circuit. So that 600w 4amp current is on a one way train from the outlet to the light.
 

exploziv

pure dynamite
Administrator
Veteran
A contactor or a SSR would be the cheap way of doing same thing, if you only need this function from a controller. And it's probably safer than even the more expensive controllers. They are designed to handle tens of amps, even near 100A for some, based on the model you get.
 

X15

Well-known member
And yeah the light mover is one of my favorite pieces of equipment for indoor growing. It gives me a much larger sqft, with out added heat from another light and the plants really like it. There’s something to showering the plants with photons in a less direct fashion. Seems to give them a break so I’m not pushing the DLI so intensely. They are just in cruise control.
 

X15

Well-known member
If your light is still glowing when plugged into a light controller and the controller is off then I’d say you have an issue with your power supply on the light
 

Rastafarout

Well-known member
Premium user
@X15 i found my controller, took a while but eventually found it
I should of used the whole time , there’s no glow with it off plugged straight in the wall
Much safer option ! IMG_7729.jpeg
 

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exploziv

pure dynamite
Administrator
Veteran
There's probably a beefier relay in there that also does what it should, breaking both wires at the same time when not powered. So it is a better option than just the timer, now your timer only takes a few watts through it directly, the power draw of the light being through the relay in the controller. And it also solves your problem with the light staying on. Double win!
 

Rastafarout

Well-known member
Premium user
Probably a lot safer too , basically that relay takes all the strain ? Putting less strain on the house wiring .. less heat build up ect
 
If your light is still glowing when plugged into a light controller and the controller is off then I’d say you have an issue with your power supply on the light

Led T5 replacements stay illuminated with the timers off, AND with the cord switch off.

Here's what the inside of a T5 switch looks like:
20240331_081717.jpg



I tested out of every electronics class I've ever been required to take and don't have a clue how this works. Everything you know is wrong.
 
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exploziv

pure dynamite
Administrator
Veteran
Probably a lot safer too , basically that relay takes all the strain ? Putting less strain on the house wiring .. less heat build up ect
It is safer because the high power consumption and switching is taken by the controller relay and not by the cheap and small one in the timer. It won't save any strain on your wiring, cause the power still needs to come through it. But you should not worry, a mains outlet will do 16A (13A recomended for continous use). The timer usually does 10A (but i wouldn't put more than 5A through it directly). 1A at 220V is 220W, in case you want to calculate what is safe.
 

Hiddenjems

Well-known member
You have current flowing through the third prong, the ground. Simple fix, buy an adapter plug and run a new ground stake for your lights, or strap it to copper pipe. Best option, call an electrician to come find your code violation.
 
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