Incredible Results: Dyna Gro recipe

[dizzlekush]

What makes you say this? According to DG, Magpro is for people who use RO water but even when I've not used magpro, the plants didn't show signs of deficiency. The bases are light on sulfur though but that element has a more aesthetic role, IMO.

1.)Lack of proportionate levels of secondary nutrients, since soil is hot in secondaries usually.
2.)Roughly 1/3 of N in dyna's products is in ammoniacal form, next to no hydro/aero/soil-less mix has that much NH4.
3.)Lack of DPTA and EDDHA.

in reality, they're probably formulated with the intention to be applicable across a wide variety of growing situations, and are probably not formulated for any specific type of substrate. but if you were to use dyna products as is, without using mag-pro or supplementing any secondaries, you would definitely do the best in soil.

 

[cheeched]

Hey HB, first of all I read your Dyna vs ADV and Dyna vs GH threads and I totally enjoyed and soaked it all in (or at least as much as I could), thanks for that BTW..Anyhow after reading other peeps threads as well as yours, I decided to try Dyna's FP for veg, and I freakin love the stuff so now I'm doing a first ebb n flow 70gal rez for flower..My tap is ~ 120-140 7.2 ph mixing the 7-9-5 grow @ 3ml+ 7ml bloom+ 5ml protekt+ 2ml magpro I get ~1100ppm .5 conv..a lil hot but no issues thus far, only thing is my water is really cloudy, is this normal with Dyna product(s)..have you noticed anything that may cause this?..I do add the silica(Protekt) first btw..TIA..

 

[TREE KING]

homebrewer you said "you'll need grow and bloom regardless of how you chosoe feed during the flowering stage. "

is this cause its better to use the grow only the first 2 weeks of flower since its veg growth?

 

[Homebrewer]

1.)Lack of proportionate levels of secondary nutrients, since soil is hot in secondaries usually.

I think we could both agree that something like a Jacks Classic is intended for dirt/soil with it totally lacking all secondary macro elements. DG has all three and according to their feeding chart, it was designed to be used with a 50ppm tap water. I use it with RO and supplement with magpro with no issues in my flood tables.

2.)Roughly 1/3 of N in dyna's products is in ammoniacal form, next to no hydro/aero/soil-less mix has that much NH4.

Their ratio of ammoniacal nitrogen to nitrate nitrogen is the same across all their products. I guess we could call them to find out why they did that. Versatility maybe?

3.)Lack of DPTA and EDDHA.

If anything, you could make the argument that because DG only chelates with EDTA that they intended it for hydroponic use. DPTA and EDDHA are designed to chelate into pH ranges that would not be used for a plant in hydroponics. Considering how stable their pH is in hydro, why add more expensive chelates when they're not needed? Interestingly enough, GH is far from pH stable and uses DPTA and EDDHA chelates. Or they used those because of their high dose of calcium.

On a side note, it's good to hear that you're off the snake oils.

My tap is ~ 120-140 7.2 ph mixing the 7-9-5 grow @ 3ml+ 7ml bloom+ 5ml protekt+ 2ml magpro I get ~1100ppm .5 conv..a lil hot but no issues thus far,

If that combination of fertilizers was measured correctly and the resulting ppm is correct, you're on the .7 scale and still running hot. Do yourself a huge favor and knock that down to about 850ppm max , thank me later .

only thing is my water is really cloudy, is this normal with Dyna product(s)..have you noticed anything that may cause this?..I do add the silica(Protekt) first btw..TIA..

My res is crystal clear with DG. I add protect first as you mentioned, mix well, then the bases, mix well, then add magpro.

homebrewer you said "you'll need grow and bloom regardless of how you chosoe feed during the flowering stage. "

is this cause its better to use the grow only the first 2 weeks of flower since its veg growth?

You'll need both grow and bloom because I do not recommend vegging with their bloom forumla, though their 7-9-5 grow could be used in bloom.

 

[TREE KING]

I think we could both agree that something like a Jacks Classic is intended for dirt/soil with it totally lacking all secondary macro elements. DG has all three and according to their feeding chart, it was designed to be used with a 50ppm tap water. I use it with RO and supplement with magpro with no issues in my flood tables.

Their ratio of ammoniacal nitrogen to nitrate nitrogen is the same across all their products. I guess we could call them to find out why they did that. Versatility maybe?


If anything, you could make the argument that because DG only chelates with EDTA that they intended it for hydroponic use. DPTA and EDDHA are designed to chelate into pH ranges that would not be used for a plant in hydroponics. Considering how stable their pH is in hydro, why add more expensive chelates when they're not needed? Interestingly enough, GH is far from pH stable and uses DPTA and EDDHA chelates. Or they used those because of their high dose of calcium.

On a side note, it's good to hear that you're off the snake oils.



If that combination of fertilizers was measured correctly and the resulting ppm is correct, you're on the .7 scale and still running hot. Do yourself a huge favor and knock that down to about 850ppm max , thank me later .

My res is crystal clear with DG. I add protect first as you mentioned, mix well, then the bases, mix well, then add magpro.




You'll need both grow and bloom because I do not recommend vegging with their bloom forumla, though their 7-9-5 grow could be used in bloom.

gotcha. i thought you were only talking about flower

 

[wdcf]

Dyna-gro Grow, is not good, I will repeat, use foliage pro for veg then use bloom for the first 7-10 days of flowering then switch to a better product.

 

[cheeched]

HB wrote,

If that combination of fertilizers was measured correctly and the resulting ppm is correct, you're on the .7 scale and still running hot. Do yourself a huge favor and knock that down to about 850ppm max , thank me later .

The mix was measured correctly and my Hanna pen is set on .5 scale..That said I went ahead and drained some solution ,topped off n dropped to < 1000 ppm/5.7 PH, and will do some more till I do a complete rez change this weekend, or sooner if my ladies tell me they needed asap....As stated this is my first go flowering with Dyna and noticed it sure is strong concentrated shite..
My current K.I.S.S Maxi rez and FNB before that is usually 1000-1200ppm max (.5) no problem..Thanks again!..

 

[odogyouknow]

Hey HB, first of all I read your Dyna vs ADV and Dyna vs GH threads and I totally enjoyed and soaked it all in (or at least as much as I could), thanks for that BTW..Anyhow after reading other peeps threads as well as yours, I decided to try Dyna's FP for veg, and I freakin love the stuff so now I'm doing a first ebb n flow 70gal rez for flower..My tap is ~ 120-140 7.2 ph mixing the 7-9-5 grow @ 3ml+ 7ml bloom+ 5ml protekt+ 2ml magpro I get ~1100ppm .5 conv..a lil hot but no issues thus far, only thing is my water is really cloudy, is this normal with Dyna product(s)..have you noticed anything that may cause this?..I do add the silica(Protekt) first btw..TIA..

I have been reading all I can on dyna-gro and if your rez clouds up when mixing, you may have locked out.

I think in a house and garden nutes thread they recommend mixing the raw nutes with water and then pouring into solution. Not all that familiar with d-g, but cloudiness could be a bad sign with a simple solution.

 

[Homebrewer]

The mix was measured correctly and my Hanna pen is set on .5 scale..That said I went ahead and drained some solution ,topped off n dropped to < 1000 ppm/5.7 PH, and will do some more till I do a complete rez change this weekend, or sooner if my ladies tell me they needed asap....As stated this is my first go flowering with Dyna and noticed it sure is strong concentrated shite..
My current K.I.S.S Maxi rez and FNB before that is usually 1000-1200ppm max (.5) no problem..Thanks again!..

Oops, you're right, I plugged your numbers into my excel spreadsheet incorrectly and forgot to account for your tap water. Still, you're at 2.0 EC, you're on your own at those feeding levels. Good luck.

 

[guest121295]

I still have Dyna-grow on my shelf.Yeah it sounds like rocks in the mix when you shake it but with a touch of cal-mag it still works wonders on new cuts and seedlings, even moms.People are a bit too fussy about this much of this and this much of that.The GH line is much more soluble and gives excellent results.So does Rockwool Formula 1 A&B, for all mediums.A gram here, a gram there, thats the difference.A person is much better off testing nutes themselves after looking around and NEVER listen to the guy at the hydro shop!!!

 

[mister_terious]

Anti, I had that problem years ago with Grow Big, the tech there said to slowly warm the bottle and shake often. Sure enough, solids went back into suspension. M_T

 

[YosemiteSam]

Their ratio of ammoniacal nitrogen to nitrate nitrogen is the same across all their products. I guess we could call them to find out why they did that. Versatility maybe?

I can tell you that would be too much NH4 for me...given my water. At about 20% NH4 my pH stays well balanced at 6 (actual root zone pH, not runoff. At higher NH4 my pH would drop over time.

So I would have trouble running Dyna. My waters alkalinity is in the 50-60 ppm range.

Like most purchased complete nutes it is gonna come down to your individual case whether the nute works for you are not. With higher alkalinity water I would guess Dyna is excellent...lower alkalinity water...not so much.

 

[Homebrewer]

I can tell you that would be too much NH4 for me...given my water. At about 20% NH4 my pH stays well balanced at 6 (actual root zone pH, not runoff. At higher NH4 my pH would drop over time.

So I would have trouble running Dyna. My waters alkalinity is in the 50-60 ppm range.

Like most purchased complete nutes it is gonna come down to your individual case whether the nute works for you are not. With higher alkalinity water I would guess Dyna is excellent...lower alkalinity water...not so much.

I'm curious as to how NH4 interacts with your water's alkalinity to affect your pH. I'm aware they both can affect pH in their own ways but don't understand how that combination is less than desirable for you.

I've used my 330+ ppm tap water which is high in bicarbonate and currently use RO and regardless of the water source, the pH in my hydro system has been rock solid since day one.

 

[YosemiteSam]

When NH4 nitrifies H+ is released. Humus, cec and your waters alkalinity all work to tie up that H+...but when those sources are used up that H+ will cause the pH in the media to drop.

I did not look but perhaps there is buffer in the Dyna?

 

[Burrr]

I use dynagro in a RDWC and experience this ph drop. It's not huge, but it seems to be there the whole way through flower. I see drops from 5.8 to 5.6 over night, almost every night. I correct this using ph up, which I believe adds a little K to the mix at the same time. I was wondering what the cause was for the drop, the ammoniacal nitrogen explains it.
I believe I read that nitrate nitrogen is taken up faster than the ammoniacal nitrogen, so does that mean that that dynagrows nitrogen is less "hot" than others containg mostly nitrate nitrogen.

can the ammoniacal nitrogen come in forms other than ammonium nitrate? is ammonium phospate still considered a source of ammonical nitrogen?

Mineral nitrogen:
The mineral forms of nitrogen are nitrate, nitrite and ammonium ions.

Nitrate with the chemical structure of NO3-
Nitrite with the chemical structure of NO2-
Ammonium ions, with the chemical structure of NH3 as mentioned above.
Ammoniums ions are nitrified and are converted by microorganisms into nitrate. Fish and humans are more tolerant of nitrate nitrogen than they are of ammonium nitrogen. In well aerated water, most of the mineral nitrogen is in the form of nitrate.

 

[Homebrewer]

When NH4 nitrifies H+ is released. Humus, cec and your waters alkalinity all work to tie up that H+...but when those sources are used up that H+ will cause the pH in the media to drop.

Forgive me as the chemistry is a little over my head, but do you have a link that better explains this?

Or maybe this nitrification example better explains it?:


http://hortipm.tamu.edu/ipmguide/nutrient/nitrogen.html

Ammonium (NH4) fertilizers must first be converted to nitrate NO3 before it can be used by the plant. This is a 2 step process in which ammonium is first converted to nitrate and then the nitrate is subsequently converted to ammonia. This process, known as nitrification, is dependent on several soil microorganisms (Nitrosomnas, Nitrobacter). These microorganisms are effected by several factors including: temperature, moisture, etc.




2NH4 + 3O2 a 2NO2 + 2H2O + 4H
Ammonium Oxygen Nitrate Water


and then

NO2 + O2 a 2NO3
Nitrite Oxygen Nitrate

Hey burrr, good to see you over here. How much Protekt are you using per gallon?

 

[Burrr]

Didn't know i had a response over here

running 4 ml per gallon proteck.

I've been reading up a bit on the different ingredients in fertilizers, finding lots of it still over my head too.

 

[Burrr]

I wonder if this means that the ammoniacal nitrogen in dynagro would never be available in a sterile rez?

 

[Burrr]

http://hortipm.tamu.edu/ipmguide/nutrient/nitrogen.html

Good link Homebrewer.

 

[Dickkhead]

what happened to the guy who started the thread wheres his pics. HB also saved my ass from AN scams i love the stuff!!