Hemp Russet Mites!! Help?

[420k.net]

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Hello,

New to the site, read the thread, still cant tell for certain if I have the little russet mite bastards. Posting pics for reference. Any help id ing these symptoms is appreciated. Thnx.

 

[Chunkypigs]

that looks like something else to me esp pic #3.

kinda looks like ant damage like I see on my outdoor.

 

[iTarzan]

self deleted

 

[stasis]

Hello,

New to the site, read the thread, still cant tell for certain if I have the little russet mite bastards. Posting pics for reference. Any help id ing these symptoms is appreciated. Thnx.

Yes, they are there. No question...

Another thing about these bugs. One can flower out a crop, but the hairs turn orange prematurely, and the trich level is usually no more than 50%.

In the veg room is where they kill ya

 

[The Joker1]

Good Luck. Follow the advice in this thread and don't be afraid to chuck valued plants. I had mothers that were 20 years old that are irreplaceable.Garbage now. I'm down to 4 moms, all unavailable from seed as they are old or rare.

Keep a spray bottle with bleach handy. Spray whenever you water. If you can make clones, throw the moms and all the pots away. Spray everything with bleach.Rinse repeat.

Met 52 works as foliar and drench. Nuke em works. Sulfur is limited. Monterey Pest Fighter with Insect soap knocks them way back. You need an ovacide. Spinosad did nothing. Diotemaceous earth sprayed at 4 table spoons per gallon did little but keep the plants from getting light on the leaves. Regalia drench helps their immune system. Foliar feeding will save your leaves.

Cut your moms to look like asparagus and spray. Met 52 may have to be sprayed every day for a few weeks in combination with an oil.

Killing the adults is easier than killing the eggs. An atomizer or atomizing spray bottle is better than a pump sprayer or regular spray bottle.

Assume they are always there. Rinse repeat. Spray every nook and cranny with bleach.

Forbid works , but if you don't get them all the first time, they become resistant quick.

I had a dispensary move into the lot on the other side of my backyard fence. They had moms. I showed signs on my tomatoes and brought a mother from outside inside and that was it. They were already resistant to pesticides. I used a rotation of Avid, Akari and Forbid but I didn't cut my moms back enough and while they looked great for a month, they returned resistant to everything.

Met 52 and Nuke em worked better than Sulfur. The key to met 52 is a high RH , cool temps and to spray at least every other day if not daily. The instructions say every 5 days. That's not true. You want to get them coated as soon as eggs hatch. Nuke em at 1 oz per gallon will not damage leaves, but don't kill eggs. 2 oz per gallon will damage leaves but have more effect on eggs.

Having tried every available non chemical option, I ordered Tetrasan. I have not seen a dead russet for three weeks, but I want assurance that all eggs are dead.

I've been mixing crab meal into my soil for years, but the chitosan they produce is either ineffective or minimally effective .

In my humble experience, it's best to start with non chems if possible , then after they have been knocked back go in with the pesticides as fogging lights fans and vents with Forbid works.

I tried to be just organic with the methods, but it's really hard. My RH is about 30% in the summer, so getting it up to 70 is really difficult which Met32 needs. Now is the time, when it's cool and the RH is up.

Be thorough and good luck.

 

[The Joker1]

Can't edit. Met 52 rotated with an oil to kill larvae and adults works ( Nuke em, pest fighter oil, horticultural oil, whatever)

 

[Wendull C.]

Avid, neem, forbid 4f, neem again, tjen avid again. In tje mean time clean your room. I freaked when i got em but two avids a neem and a forbid took em out. Veg room only.

 

[Wendull C.]

Fuck organics, nuke them bastards. Bleach everything! Good luck...

 

[Jajda z okjesu]

Hi mates, i have question, when i clean all room where i have grow tent, buy new grow tent and clean all equipments in da box. How chance is to return this fucking bugs.. Do u someone know how long eggs is possible live??

 

[~star~crash~]

Jajda i had an outbreak in a room & it was pretty bad ... i lost my moms , but i managed to finish out the grow i found that the invaders stayed lower in the canopy, but i got reduced yield ... it was not pretty ... i did nothing to clean & shut down the room and left it alone for 6 months then i fired it back up with no issues ... so they can't live forever ...

 

[Wendull C.]

They can live on dead plant material. I have seen them alive and well in pounds and trim. Get all that shit out of your place and clean any and all dead leaves from the floor always.

 

[9DRAGONS]

i like to clean, like 3 or 4 times.
once all plant material is out of grow area

 

[~star~crash~]

impossible for them to live forever on dead plant material, when there is no food left >>>them (and the eggs) eventually die

 

[Wendull C.]

impossible for them to live forever on dead plant material, when there is no food left >>>them (and the eggs) eventually die

Hello star, like your posts and love for the plant. I have seen the living on trim over a month old. They were still crawlin around and there were fresh eggs. Maybe the integra pack helped them with xtra humidity.

I have seen this first hand when i was gifted ten units of trim that was from a grow that had very little russets and damage. But i saw them alive with my own eyes. This is not hear say.

 

[~star~crash~]

i don't doubt you at all ... those bugs suck & no way around that fact!

i can only report my own experience in that room ...peace

 

[Jajda z okjesu]

Ok guys, thanks for fast reaction. So all dry buds leaves and all plant parts are out of room for few weeks. But in the room stay new tent with soil. Bofere the building new tent i desinfekt all floores in house by chloramin. There is desinfection on places what is use in hospitals. And today i spray all floor and places in grow room and new tent by abamectin (vertimec 1,8ec) bat floor under bottom of tent isnt. So what now... Wait and I hope...!!! Next therapy will be with fire, muhehe

 

[Jajda z okjesu]

And last question. Bugs and eggs are possible lives without plants??

 

[The Joker1]

That's a very good question, with different answers depending where you look. The best source for info on plant pests and diseases is often from agricultural or academic sites. The agricultural industry deals with all of them. http://webdoc.agsci.colostate.edu/hempinsects/PDFs/Hemp russet mite with photos.pdf

Hemp Russet Mite
Hemp russet mite (Aculops cannibicola) is extremely small – much smaller than the twospotted spider mite - and cannot be observed without some magnification (15- 20X). They have an elongate body and pale color, typical of most eriophyid mites (the mite family Eriophyidae). During heavy infestations flowering structures may take on a beige appearance, the combined result of leaf injuries and the color of the mites observed when as the mass on the heads.
The biology of hemp russet mite is very
little studied but is likely similar to related
species of leaf-dwelling (rust/russet) eriophyid mites, such as tomato russet mite (Aculops lycopersici). It reproduces by production of eggs that, upon hatch, is followed by two immature stages (protonymph, deutonymph), followed by an adult. The entire life cycle (initially laid egg through first egg laying by the adult) of the tomato russet mite is reportedly completed in
about a month at temperatures of 770F.
Each adult will produce from 10-50 eggs.
Cannabis is the only known host for hemp russet mite and similar rust mites (e.g., tomato russet mite) do not produce any resistant stages. Therefore, nymphs and adults off the host are unlikely to survive for more than a few days to a couple of weeks, at the most. On their own, hemp russet mites can crawl only very short distances. However, they are readily carried on air currents and fans will quickly spread mites in enclosed areas. Some hemp russet mites may also be transferred from plant to plant on hands and clothing.
Insects/Mites that Feed on Hemp – Fluid Feeders
Hemp russet mite is similar in appearance to the eriophyid mite illustrated above (wheat curl mite) Photograph courtesy of David Shetlar, The Ohio State University.
A slight rolling along the leaf edge is a symptom of infestation by hemp russet mite.
Initial signs of infestation are subtle and easily missed. They can also vary among cultivars. A slightly curling along the edges of leaves is the
most common symptom observed, but this is not expressed in all plants. Others respond to having a general dullness of leaves (russetting). As infestations progress areas of leaves may have visible yellow or brown spotting. Foliage also may become brittle foliage, often resulting
in breaks at the leaf petiole. Ultimately, highest populations usually occur on developing buds, which results in buds that are smaller and of reduced quality.
Hemp russet mite has only been observed associated with indoor-grown Cannabis that is propagated by cuttings, conditions that continuously provide live plants that can sustain it. Hemp russet mite is unlikely to cause significant injury to outdoor grown at sites where there are extended periods of cold and without live hemp plants.
Acari: Eriophyidae
Links to additional images of hemp russet mite. There two excellent images by Karl Hillig of hemp russet mite and the leaf rolling symptom it produces. These are posted at BugGuide.Net and are copyrighted but can be seen at:
http://bugguide.net/node/view/287723/bgimage http://bugguide.net/node/view/287734/bgimage

 

[The Joker1]

I can't edit yet so here it is in bold

Therefore, nymphs and adults off the host are unlikely to survive for more than a few days to a couple of weeks, at the most.

That implies with no live plant material to sustain it.

https://www.conflabs.com/russet-mites-a-need-to-know-guide-for-a-microscopic-enemy/


However: The females over winter inside plant stems, where branches join main plants, and sometimes in root structures.

So females can hide inside the plants and remain dormant ( and pregnant) to survive the winter where they come out and lay eggs. I cooled to stay in the 50's to slow the life cycle so I could kill as many as possible. Then I raised the temps to 72 with lights on so if there are any females in the plants, I would be killing them as they emerge as a response to the warmer temps. My mites are resistant to all pesticides. I have to save the moms I have. Not replaceable.

So I'm doing Met52 and soon... Tetrasan Ovacide. The Met52 does kill them and I spray every other day, while foliar feeding on alternate days. New growth looks really good. Any leaf that looks funny at all is removed immediately. A minimum of plant material is left on the plants so that all can be sprayed easily. Soil is also drenched and treated.

My goal is to get the healthy parts to give me rooted cuts, throw everything away. Dip the cuts in Avid and Tetrasan several times and continue with the Met 52 every other day. Grow them out and repeat several times. I have 4 cabs, 3 have been cleaned with bleach several times and have been empty for 2 months. I hope to keep them empty for long enough to insure as per the first quote in this post that they are dead.

I've been throwing pots away , changed out the floor liners, bleached walls etc and repainted everything. All plant material is removed.

This is now the new normal. Even if one is uninfected, one must proceed with preventative measures. I may go back to coco. Never got an broads or russets from coco, but I've gotten a lot of pests from every brand of soil.

 

[pinkus]

I cooled to stay in the 50's to slow the life cycle so I could kill as many as possible.

Lowering the temps slows the processes and likely extends their life cycle time-wise. Some bugs go dormant and are actually more resilient in this state. Just a heads up. Do what you need to do to eradicate them.