Golden Tiger

[Tangwena]

Keep the bud porn coming man awesome GT's

 

[farm3r]

A couple things I have done that helps. I switched to rapid rooter plugs. Last month I finished 100 clones, 100% success with rapid rooter. They are cheap, $17/50 plugs at amazon.
Second, do not spray the leaves of the clones, just the lid/dome of your clone chamber. DO NOT over water your plugs. I usually check mine every 3 days and every 3 or 4 days, have to give a spray to the plug. You want them moist, not dry, but not too wet; they need oxygen or they will die. When I wet the plugs, I spray with a bottle and only wet the bottom half of the sides and bottom of the plug the clone is in. I do not spray the top of the plug or around the stem of the clone and don't overspray. If they stay moist, but not too wet, they will root.
I also like to root my cutting at the bottom nodes. I don't just want to root the stem (cutting the bottom stem at an angle or scraping it), but I like to cut off the new growth on the clone's stem and that is where I get my first set of roots usually.
If all other conditions are as you say, you should see your success rate go way up. Hope this helps.
Peace, God bless
Edit: I wanted to ask, your GT is not going into flower is she? Always try to take your cutting while the plant is in veg. It is difficult to root a plant going into flower as she is concentrating on flowering. It seems they need to go back into veg, before they can root and often (but not always), a cutting won't last that long.

There is a really good thread on icmag with regards to cloning with Jiffy Peat Pellets in a tray with dome. People have much better luck with Jiffy Peat Pellets (super cheap and available everywhere!)than Rapid Rooters. Do what @SolarLogos said. Do not spray the leaves but only the dome. When you spray the leaves, the cuttings get lazy as it's getting it's moisture from the top and it takes longer as the cutting doesn't have any alarming reason to try to find water / nutrients below the soil.


Two other important factors are:


1) Do not keep the pellets wet. Just keep it moist. Too wet and

there's no oxygen.


2) Keep the tray and dome warm around 21c to 25c


3) For the first week, do not give it too much light. Just put the dome and tray out of direct light. After a week, you can give it more light and also open the vent of the dome to let the the pellets dry out somewhat. Of course, always keep the pellet moist.


4) When you want to moisten the pellets, poor just enough water into the tray so the pellets would start to wick the water up.



Anyway, I'm kind of all over the place here, but look for that thread...search something like "cloning with jiffy peat pellets."


BTW, my cuttings root around 10 days or so. And I use aloe vera leaf as cloning gel.

 

[hush]

Just a quick shot of what I'm puffing on right now. I love this stuff!

 

[musigny23]

2019 album

2019 album

This year I managed to get one more female from the F1 seed release a couple years ago. It was slow to sex and I was delayed in transplanting it once it did so unfortunately it didn't really take off in veg. It grew very slowly. I guess it got hormonally stunted from too long in small pot.

Also it developed a stem infection that killed the top of the center stem. However the rest did eventually flower. It won't yield much but I think what's there will be very nice. It's pretty much done I'd say. It's maturity time is on par with the current regular GT release. I have two of those and they're basically done now too.

It's safe to say that here at 36.5° these finish on Halloween.

 

[musigny23]

2019 grow

2019 grow

Here are my two GT regular plants. Grown on different sides of the house with different sun exposure. The first one was placed next to my Bangi Congo x Panama which got much bigger much faster and shaded it somewhat during veg. So that limited it a bit. The BCxP was to the left which caused the asymmetrical structure. But the BCxP finished and this one has gotten more sun during flowering which helped.

The other one has done well. Limited a bit by the root space but otherwise very nice. Zero disease problems. Branches have matured a bit unevenly but not too much. Could be taken any time now. Tomorrow I think. These took about 3 weeks longer than the more Malawi dominant feminized seeds.

First one:

Second bigger one:

 

[flylowgethigh]

My Hero!!! Nice work.

 

[Tangwena]

What a beauty.

 

[musigny23]

What a beauty.

Thanks. I really want to cob cure some of this and a pure Thai I have. Never done it before. Doesn't seem difficult but the "sweating" process requires some temperature control and I'm not sure how best to do that. Also how much to dry it at first to begin the initial cob and sweat.

I would hate to ruin any nice buds.

 

[F2F]

It's safe to say that here at 36.5° these finish on Halloween.

Glad To hear this Musigny. Was wondering if the more Thai influence in the current release would put me further into Nov here at 38N, it gets a little dicey for me past 1st week Nov.

Cheers
F2F

 

[musigny23]

Glad To hear this Musigny. Was wondering if the more Thai influence in the current release would put me further into Nov here at 38N, it gets a little dicey for me past 1st week Nov.

Cheers
F2F

It could but 38°N is not much different from 36.5°N. That's only about 100 miles difference. Other factors may matter more. I'm in California about a mile from the ocean so I don't experience freezes. Inland you might. This year has been amazing in that there has been basically no rain events and many warm sunny days. A year with cooler average temps and more cloudy days in October and maybe a few rains could turn out quite differently. That might slow the pace of flowering and maturation a bit.

Other factors may include just how sunny your spot is, the root space available to the plant and the fertility of the soil. As much sun as possible in October helps. Some confinement of the roots may bring flowering to finish a little sooner, and richer more fertile soil is likely to extend flowering.

My soil is sandy clay based and not very rich. I do my best each spring to amend it and top dress during the summer but by this time the soil tends to be well used. I don't feed the plants much at all in the final weeks. Those factors may be important in finishing by the first week of November. I can't say for sure.

 

[F2F]

Yep, you raise good points Musigny. There was a silverback thread that described all the tricks one could use to bring the flowering time down on the longer running plants. I think u hit on most of them.

Cheers
F2F

 

[Goodherb]

Musigny,how deep are raise beds.
What diagrams of GTigers.
Between BCxP an the GTiger;Malawi dominant, which one was more vigorous !?

 

[Goodherb]

Musigny,I don't know if you did say anything on that pure thia,that you intent to cob,if so ,where may i (thread)find it!?

 

[musigny23]

Musigny,how deep are raise beds.
What diagrams of GTigers.
Between BCxP an the GTiger;Malawi dominant, which one was more vigorous !?

The raised beds aren't deep. About 60-80 cm.

I don't know what you're asking about GT diagrams.

I grew 2 fem GT and 2 regular GT. The fem were easy to put in their growing spots right away. The regular took time to sex in their 8 litre pots so they got a slower start. The BCxP were fem seeds so they also got a better start. The fem GTs were similar to the BCxP in vigor but the BCxP had more branching. I'd say the BCxP can get very big and have a high yield.

The regular GT are more like Thai plants with more branching than the fems. Here they were a bit smaller but I don't think that is the genetics, just how things worked out for me in my growing space.

 

[musigny23]

Musigny,I don't know if you did say anything on that pure thia,that you intent to cob,if so ,where may i (thread)find it!?

I haven't made any posts about it. If I get some time maybe I will. My first time trying it. It may not go well.

The problem is I'm busy with many time consuming things harvesting, processing, trimming and so also cobbing when the material is the right wetness is hard.

 

[nonnativecali2]

Has anyone finished GT (or Malawi) outside in freezing temperatures? I am curious how tolerant they are to frost/freeze. The fall weather has been perfect for the long flowering sativas, but a storm is coming with both snow and freezing temperatures. Last night dropped to 30F, and the plants are fine this morning, but it is going to drop to 25F in a couple of days. I have a little greenhouse I can setup for them, or can chop them (about a week early I reckon), but also wondering if they'll survive on their own.

Any input would be appreciated! Thanks all!

 

[YukonKronic]

Has anyone finished GT (or Malawi) outside in freezing temperatures? I am curious how tolerant they are to frost/freeze. The fall weather has been perfect for the long flowering sativas, but a storm is coming with both snow and freezing temperatures. Last night dropped to 30F, and the plants are fine this morning, but it is going to drop to 25F in a couple of days. I have a little greenhouse I can setup for them, or can chop them (about a week early I reckon), but also wondering if they'll survive on their own.

Any input would be appreciated! Thanks all!

I had a scrog get frozen in a power outage. I was less than a week from
Harvey so I just cut it. Trim and dry had to be accelerated to combat potential mould but it dried out okay and was good quality smoke if perhaps a little less sweet than expected.
They will likely survive periods of sub zero for a few hours but it will stunt them enough to lose days or a week of good ripening... if they are going to get buried in snow I might just cut.
If they are borderline you could take a “wait and see” approach and decide after the event if u will let them recover and finish or just cut and take precautions while drying to prevent mould.

Edit: don’t know how much effort you want to go to but a small greenhouse with a small heater might well get you through the day or so of cold and give you enough time to finish properly.. all depends on your weather and where you find diminishing returns in extra effort.

Edit edit: if the ground gets too cold they’re probably going to say fuck it and die... once the dirt gets froze there’s probably no stronger signal that winter has come and it’s all over.

 

[YukonKronic]

If they’re super healthy and full of sugar they ought to resist freezing a little better too.. plants are truly amazing and pretty individual in their own rights too... the spectrum of anecdotal experience leans towards frost killing sativa pretty quickly but as soon as one digs there ARE examples of very cold resistant tropical and sub tropical plants.

I have a philodendron that’s been nothing but a stump outside at -40C for two weeks. It came back and is about 12 feet long growing across our living room ceiling like a vine.. wouldn’t have believed it till I saw it. Still don’t really.

I also had a number of cannabis plants be reduced to their tiniest leaves budding out by a freeze. Most recovered if they had leaves/buds survive (newest growth has highest sugar content... antifreeze!)
Zamaldelica died but ALL her crosses survived well.
So it’s “on the edge” of what weed can survive but goddamn. It CAN survive it.


Lol try the fruit growers trick and mist your plants (erm maybe just a branch) so they get an ice rime to protect from freezing!
Haha it would be a badass pic of an “iced out” bud at the very least.. and could be a big deal kinda lifesaver to Northern growers if it works..

 

[SonicNurse92]

Hola Dubi y amigos, una de mis GT creo que es fenotipo Thai y va 75 días en floración 11/13, voy a dejarla casi 100 días.

 

[SonicNurse92]

Mi otra GT fenotipo Malawi (eso creo) va 75 días de flora también a 11/13. La dejaré hasta los 90 días. Ambas están en la misma tienda 24 x 24 x 48 pulgadas con 300w LED (135w reales). Nutrientes Delta 8, 9 y 10 más melaza.