Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

[frankenstein2]

Hey fella's whats up. Been struggling with root aphids lately. What a bastard they are. Just when I think I have them under control....things get fucked again. I've done lots of research on here about them. from my understanding....adults give birth to live babies. I also know that they all don't turn into flyers. Which is where I'm stuck. Makes me wonder if I have another pest that needs specific treatment to get rid of it. Usually the clones go into the flood table looking real healthy. Then I start to notice leaves wilting and curling, and when I check the cube, they will have a bunch of little black dots on the sides. They look like eggs to me, but I just want to confirm/see if anyone else has seen this. I took some pics so everyone can see what I mean.

The last pic is a before and after. The pic on the right as it's happening, and the one on the left is the aftermath. Those two plants are both the same strain.

 

[StankyBeamer]

This is what they're doin to my shit right now. Stay strong brotha

 

[DONAJTHEIII]

Hey fella's whats up. Been struggling with root aphids lately. What a bastard they are. Just when I think I have them under control....things get fucked again. I've done lots of research on here about them. from my understanding....adults give birth to live babies. I also know that they all don't turn into flyers. Which is where I'm stuck. Makes me wonder if I have another pest that needs specific treatment to get rid of it. Usually the clones go into the flood table looking real healthy. Then I start to notice leaves wilting and curling, and when I check the cube, they will have a bunch of little black dots on the sides. They look like eggs to me, but I just want to confirm/see if anyone else has seen this. I took some pics so everyone can see what I mean.View ImageView ImageView ImageView Image The last pic is a before and after. The pic on the right as it's happening, and the one on the left is the aftermath. Those two plants are both the same strain.

Frank pimp try this out alright


Root aphids


god saying that gives me the shivers lol


lets do this one more time

ROOT aphids

**notice how i capitalized the root**

No roots no aphids

throw shit out cut new clones sanatize everything your trays etc just like before a new cycle.

cut using an ez cloner no cubes so you can keep an eye on the roots 24/7

with cubes etc they can hide alot easier. with an ez cloner all the roots are visible so you can see your enemy alot easier.


From start to finish use preventative measures.

1)sm-90
2)nematodes
3)BTI (mosquito dunks)
4)root drench every couple of weeks (Azamax is what I use)

with this they dont get a chance to colonize


AJAE

 

[StankyBeamer]

That would keep them at bay somewhat but eradication that way seems unlikely, they can stick around for quite awhile with no roots to eat, the only real way is to kill all of them in the soil and sterilize the entire inside volume of the structure quickly enough afterwards. You leave a single one alive in a vent or in your carpet or whatever, boom they're back. They don't need males to reproduce, and they don't need a food source to stick around they'll just hibernate/overwinter. Orchin bed bug heat treatments. What I'm hoping to be my secret weapon.

 

[Granger2]

2 Points:
RA's mostly reproduce by giving live birth to adult stage females, but left out above, the live birth adult stage females are freaking PREGNANT-with adult stage pregnant females.

Half life means that HALF of the imid is gone. So this 60 day business [which is wishful thinking] means that after 60 days, half the imid is still present. -granger

 

[EclipseFour20]

And the more active ingredient one adds...the greater the amount of "half" remains. Not that it is 100% accurate but this is a good illustration: If I use 50 ml/gallon...then half is 25ml/gallon...and another half is 12.5 ml (2nd half life). If the half-life was 200 days...then we are at day 400 at 12.5 ml....two halves of the original 50/ml.

 

[StankyBeamer]

I don't grow anything that flowers less than seventy days aside from a seed that's almost done. And I plan on vegging the plants that got hit with imid into proper trees for a vert set up, so if I don't have to keep using it for very long I should be fine

 

[RetroGrow]

I've devised a battle plan I thought is share in case it's effective. My prebattle consists of imid in veg(merit),

Merit is WAY overkill, and completely unnecessary, especially for medicine for a cancer patient. If you must use imid, use the low strength variety which is approved for vegetables/food crops.
With OG Biowar root available, that is what I would use at this point in time.

 

[xxxstr8edgexxx]

Merit is WAY overkill, and completely unnecessary, especially for medicine for a cancer patient. If you must use imid, use the low strength variety which is approved for vegetables/food crops.
With OG Biowar root available, that is what I would use at this point in time.

unless of course youre able to measure and calculate dose with two known differing formulations. then its essentially the same thing. if you want to use imid and merits what you have, theres no reason not to use it. just so long as you are using only the necessary dose of either product.

 

[EclipseFour20]

Merit is WAY overkill, and completely unnecessary, especially for medicine for a cancer patient. If you must use imid, use the low strength variety which is approved for vegetables/food crops....

I guess if you use hillybilly math, that might make sense. But let's do some traditional math (the kind I was taught in public school)--

Merit 75wp, 2 oz bottle $35.75, ingredient: 75% imidacloprid http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/merit-75-wp-oz-jar-p-300.html
Bayer Advanced Fruit, Citrus and Vegetable Insect Control, 32 oz bottle $22.50, ingredient: 0.235% imidacloprid http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/bayer-advanced-fruit-citrus-and-vegetable-insect-control-p-2033.html

Now...lets compare cost per ounce of imidacloprid:

Merit: 2 oz x 75% = 1.5 oz of Imid, $35.75 ÷ 1.5 oz = $23.83 per oz
Bayer: 32 oz x 0.235% = 0.0752 oz of Imid, $22.50 ÷ 0.0752 oz = $299.20 per oz.

If your choice of poison is Imid and if you can measure 1 gram of granules, then Merit is for you and save the equivalent of $275 per oz of Imid.

Hillbilly math...too funny, thanks for the morning chuckle Retro! BTW, are you insinuating that Merit is not bueno for cancer patients, but Bayer is OK? Do you have any factual basis for that conclusion? Or is that bit of "misinformation" just your opinion?

 

[mkush]

hi guys, ive been lurking around from forum to forum and topic to topic in hope of finding out about my mysterious deficiencies...
this is definitely the best thread out there.

i grow in soil from seed, this is my 8 grow, i think...

so 3 grows ago i have noticed little flies in my grow cabinet. ive finished that grow with reduced yield and deduced wft is going on.
next grow i drastically improved on my sanitation(it was at high standards all along), but the infestation was way worse than the previous one.

so i did some extensive reading and bought imidacloprid.
ive found only one product that has pure imid, a 200g/L solution.
i used 5ml/10L of water and blasted them into oblivion. i watered my plants with that solution. once.
3 days after that and it was a wasteland. plants were doing great. except for the smell of imid...

i had great yield btw, full of imid...

this grow i have ordered nematodes (S. feltiae), and infested my soil with them before planting.
everything was doing great till i flipped to 12/12.
a week into flowering and same symptoms all over.
nematodes are great against fungus gnats and other things that is not this phylloxera shit.

i still have a lot of poison, but im hesitating to use it, as the good data on imid is mostly malarkey. i dont buy that shit one bit.

my question is this, if i apply imid foliar by misting, will imid travel to roots and poison the bastards feeding on them? i cant found data on this one. if you can feed the plant foliar, can it be used to distribute poison the same way?
i dont want to drench the roots as i am almost 3 weeks in flowering.
and it would kill all of nematodes who did such a good job on other insects ( i observed under the microscope, there is at least 3 different adult winged body phenos), one being f.gnats, the other 2 dont know but one of them is hurting our immortal beloved so bad.

stay frosty

 

[StankyBeamer]

Well seeing as how I'm a good year and a half into organic chemistry, I'm not gonna do hillbilly math retro, don't worry I saw your five page argument over bayer vs merit. Also you obviously didn't read my posts in great detail, imid and my extension merit are water soluble. This means that they are polar molecules, and can be dissolved in polar solvents such as h2o, which is a molecule with a polar formation. Thc, and the lesser cannabinoids I'll be extracting are non polar, meaning they dissolve in non polar solvents, for ex: ethanol, butane, hexane, ether. SO..... If thc is nonpolar, and will not dissolve in a polar solvent such as water, what can we extrapolate that imid would do in a non polar solvent when it is on fact polar? Ding ding ding, "not dissolve" for the win. It'll be in the buds, granted, but the sick people I treat don't smoke my bud they consume absolute extraction products. I smoke my pot. And I'm not too worried about that, I already spent enough time in my clandestine laboratories without the proper ppe. Reguardless, retro think about all the solvents that could be in your 1% imid bayer? I'd rather give my ladies something pure and adjust the dose than pour 98%"other ingredients" onto my babies. Seriously what do you think is in that milky bayer bullshit as opposed to an almost pure granulated imid

 

[mk6]

If you want to kill both Root aphids and fungus gnats, then buy Bayer complete control, add it to your res, ie treat your medium. not a spray this product is systemic, but it will KILL, never to return both root aphids and fungus gnats. I haven't seen either in over 4 years now.

if you want to KILL not ad bs around use this it works.

 

[StankyBeamer]

hi guys, ive been lurking around from forum to forum and topic to topic in hope of finding out about my mysterious deficiencies...
this is definitely the best thread out there.

i grow in soil from seed, this is my 8 grow, i think...

so 3 grows ago i have noticed little flies in my grow cabinet. ive finished that grow with reduced yield and deduced wft is going on.
next grow i drastically improved on my sanitation(it was at high standards all along), but the infestation was way worse than the previous one.

so i did some extensive reading and bought imidacloprid.
ive found only one product that has pure imid, a 200g/L solution.
i used 5ml/10L of water and blasted them into oblivion. i watered my plants with that solution. once.
3 days after that and it was a wasteland. plants were doing great. except for the smell of imid...

i had great yield btw, full of imid...

this grow i have ordered nematodes (S. feltiae), and infested my soil with them before planting.
everything was doing great till i flipped to 12/12.
a week into flowering and same symptoms all over.
nematodes are great against fungus gnats and other things that is not this phylloxera shit.

i still have a lot of poison, but im hesitating to use it, as the good data on imid is mostly malarkey. i dont buy that shit one bit.

my question is this, if i apply imid foliar by misting, will imid travel to roots and poison the bastards feeding on them? i cant found data on this one. if you can feed the plant foliar, can it be used to distribute poison the same way?
i dont want to drench the roots as i am almost 3 weeks in flowering.
and it would kill all of nematodes who did such a good job on other insects ( i observed under the microscope, there is at least 3 different adult winged body phenos), one being f.gnats, the other 2 dont know but one of them is hurting our immortal beloved so bad.

stay frosty

Do not foliar spray imid in flower. It is pretty specific to aphids so it shouldn't kill your nematodes but I could be wrong, either way it is not the pesticide for you as you are already in flower. Spectracide Triazicide is not systemic, so it is safe to apply to the roots in flower, DO NOT apply ANY insecticide at a foliar level in flower as it will surely be in the final product, and you could run into mold problems. Also spraying buds directly will damage resin glands

 

[EclipseFour20]

I hear you Stanky...may I add a link to "allowable" inert ingredients for Food Use: http://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-idx?c=ecfr&tpl=/ecfrbrowse/Title40/40cfr180_main_02.tpl

Bayer contains over 99% of one or more of those lovely chems.

 

[StankyBeamer]

Another thin retro didn't notice is that merit states on the pCkaging that it is approved for use on lawns, ornamentals, FRUIT AND NUT TREES, and interior plantscapes. 1ml of merit is equivalent to 50ml bayer t&s, and also equivalent to approximately 100ml bayer citrus in imid content, so what's more overkill, adding a ml of the desired chemical, or adding 49.5/99ml of an unknown just to get the same amount of imid?

 

[RetroGrow]

At this point in time, I wouldn't use any chemical, since there are other solutions that are effective, ie., OG Biowar Root. That didn't exist when this thread started years ago. At this point in time, imid is obsolete, and I wouldn't use it, or any of the other chems people dump into their media.

 

[caredrivensf]

Azamax 30ml/gal root drench 1 pint per gallon size pot lil runoff to none. Smear tanglefoot on plant bases and grab a few yellow sticky traps. Watch bastards flee when you root drench and get stick on the sticky traps and tanglefoot. I also used to just wash em away with a hose and drain em into a bucket or res thn just drain tht. Worked pretty good!! Use 3ml/gal H2o2 if your using Rockwool Cubes to flush em out with water and H2o2.

 

[StankyBeamer]

Azamax and og biowar both seem more like controls than eradicators. I'd rather have the little fucks gone than "controlled"

 

[RetroGrow]

Azamax is worthless, but OG Biowar works. If plants are properly inoculated, you will never get RAs. At any rate, I will never use soil again, so I will never get them again. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.