Miraculous Meds
Well-known member
what r u saying retro, u cant get them in coco?
Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???
- Thread starter spleebale
- Start date
what r u saying retro, u cant get them in coco?
StankyBeamer
Professional A$$hole
You can get them in all media... and og biowar is beneficials, how is inoculating the soil with that going to rid anybody of the toughest indoor gardening pest? Might bounce your plants back from the viruses they got from the ra, but I would hardly call merit obsolete to beneficials as a means of eradication
DONAJTHEIII
Member
stanky Im pretty sure og biowar's root product has different types of beneficials in it. Beneficials can range from a number of things from good bacteria to good fungus etc. With that said someone with more exp. please tell me if im wrong but those beneficials dont mix well with RA's so they dont like it their like a defense barrier. Wasnt there a product on here that used fungus that would slowly deteriorate RA's ate em right away the pics were brutal lol
anyway hope this clears that up and if im wrong hopefully retro will comment back or another vet.
AJAE
ok, so from what i have read, there are 3 types and foliar is the one to go with? one bloke on ********* eradicated them with it.
you say root?
does one have some fungi or bacteria that other one doesnt?
ive found on ebay much more cheaper version of it, its from ireland. the OGBiowar is from cali, usa. so shipping cost might be an issue.
any info on rip off biowar?
i like this stuff already, thx for the info.
caredrivensf
Member
Azamax is not worthless. Just used it effectivly.
DONAJTHEIII
Member
azamax is a better preventative imo not the best contact killer out there.
ogbiowar isnt expensive to start with just order the real deal it isnt like a 400 buck bottle of pylon.
AJAE
ogbiowar isnt expensive to start with just order the real deal it isnt like a 400 buck bottle of pylon.
AJAE
It comes from India, but shipping takes weeks. Also from Ireland, which takes 8-10 days. On Ebay, someone in Cali is selling it with 3-4 day delivery.
It all comes from India, just other people are reselling. It is a combination of fungi and bacteria. Google it and you will find the Root pack, which is what you would use for RAs. The foliar is for broad mites, and other pathogens. You could use both. Will prevent broad mites from getting established, and an excellent inoculate to prevent fungal diseases of the roots.
I've always gotten excellent quick service from OGBioWar.com. Regardless of where it is mfgrd, they ship from within the US.
I use 4 tsp/gal each of the Root and Foliar. This is what OGBioWar recommends for RA's. I haven't seen an RA or symptoms in close to a year.
OGBioWar is not just run of the mill beneficials like Great White. It has the fungus that is in Met 52, the fungus that is in Botanigard, BT-i, the bacteria that produce Spinosad, and other strains.
I water with it every 10-14 days. Whenever an RA enters my medium it is infected with multiple pathogens. Apparently, they are unable to reproduce, or if they give live birth, the offspring are infected before they are able to give birth. If an egg hatches, they are infected immediately. My medium stays infectuous to soil pests. Eventually, the room will be cleared of RA's. It will eradicate them. It may be that I could stop using OGBW right now, and not have a problem, but I have learned the hard way more than once. I will keep using it for several more months. I will then probably use it monthly. In the meantime, I'm not smoking toxic chemicals.
If you read this thread, you will see that many imid users get re-infestations. Another point, you don't need soil to get RA's. If you go to You Tube, you'll see heavy infestations in DWC. Good luck. -granger
P.S.-If you don't mind using a chemical solution, why not use Eclipse's pretty well proven remedy with Orthene and Riptide. Way less toxicity, short half-life, and it works for a once and for all solution.
I use 4 tsp/gal each of the Root and Foliar. This is what OGBioWar recommends for RA's. I haven't seen an RA or symptoms in close to a year.
OGBioWar is not just run of the mill beneficials like Great White. It has the fungus that is in Met 52, the fungus that is in Botanigard, BT-i, the bacteria that produce Spinosad, and other strains.
I water with it every 10-14 days. Whenever an RA enters my medium it is infected with multiple pathogens. Apparently, they are unable to reproduce, or if they give live birth, the offspring are infected before they are able to give birth. If an egg hatches, they are infected immediately. My medium stays infectuous to soil pests. Eventually, the room will be cleared of RA's. It will eradicate them. It may be that I could stop using OGBW right now, and not have a problem, but I have learned the hard way more than once. I will keep using it for several more months. I will then probably use it monthly. In the meantime, I'm not smoking toxic chemicals.
If you read this thread, you will see that many imid users get re-infestations. Another point, you don't need soil to get RA's. If you go to You Tube, you'll see heavy infestations in DWC. Good luck. -granger
P.S.-If you don't mind using a chemical solution, why not use Eclipse's pretty well proven remedy with Orthene and Riptide. Way less toxicity, short half-life, and it works for a once and for all solution.
i dig all your posts and eclipses as well. mad respect to all whove contributed to this. but i have to disagree for just a moment. if you use orthen in a soil mix youll see really intense negative effects on the plants. i used this for the reasons you stated, and i had serious plant damage and losses. a third died then another third stalled so hard they didnt really start growing at a steady pace for weeks. the other third that didnt die and did okay were in those brown spongy rooting plugs.
so i did some reading again and it showed that one of the hazards was combining acephate with alkaline substances and it makes it break down super fast to the point of offgassing sulfer and nitrogen. that struck me because my plants initially showed what looked like a major nitrogen burn. sure enough i looked through and noticed this was more popular amongst coco growers. i got in touch with eclipse 420 and he said it was exclusively done on coco.
soil has rock dust gypsum and lime in it in almost every commercially available brand. reaction burns plants. the folks compalining of this were thought to be wrongly diagnosing plants succumbing to root aphids and thinking its the acephate. reasonable assumption for eclipse based on many treatments without issue. ill tell you it is not good in soil. it wasnt absolute death with mature established plants but it did burn the fuck out of them.
Exactly! I did not mean to imply that RAs only come in soil grows. Anyone can get them, regardless of medium, however, they live in soil, from which they originate. I would never use chemicals now that this product is available. I haven't seen an RA in years, but if I did, this is what I would use. OG Biowar also stops/prevents broad & cyclamen mites, so no need for miticides, which are highly toxic. I'm glad someone (Caps) came up with an organic remedy that works.
Bad Habits
Member
Unfortunately, using OGbiowar packs isn't a guarantee it will rid you of RAs. RAs are very resilient and can reproduce strains which build up forms of biological immunity against pesticides etc including those found in the OGbio war products.
My friend has been battling RAs in his warehouse for a few years now, and tried everything under the sun. After all the normal products always mentioned in these threads failed to get the job done, he now just combats them with OGbio war products and tries to make the best of it. He uses teas with root pack and foliar pack minimum of twice a week - and while it does help greatly, it hasn't eliminated them.
They are probably the best bennies on the market though IMO.
Bad Habits
Member
Also, today I finally got a proper(ish) scope in the mail, so today/tomorrow shall be the day of reckoning for me in determining whether or not I have RAs. After seeing symptoms of what appeard to be RAs, I have hit every live plant I have with triazicide and done 30 minute dunks with foliar pack, but have never actually been able to confirm or not due to not having a powerful enough scope. I have also just finished doing a deep clean of my rooms with h2o2 and heat treatments. I know people say heat treatments can work for broadmites, but I have no idea about RAs/RA eggs. In my flower room (currently empty for deep cleaning) I got the heat up to 130ish and left it on for a few hours at a time. Anyone know if there is a termperature point at which RAs/RA eggs can't survive? I have no idea.
I picked up the Veho VMS-004 400x USB scope after doing some research, and will start examining the plants tonight. Keeping my fingers crossed!
I picked up the Veho VMS-004 400x USB scope after doing some research, and will start examining the plants tonight. Keeping my fingers crossed!
Miraculous Meds
Well-known member
retro recommends 120f for 1 hour, for broads/cyclamens, not RA, and be careful with 130f, I think that's pushing it.
I was just talking with retro and talking about size of scope for RA and he reminded me that u can see these by eye so a small magnification would be best. That 400x scope is gonna be like a xray machine. lol
What do u guys thing about these?
Bad Habits,
Maybe he should do the 2 prong Botanigard and Nematodes approach. That worked well for me. Todes in veg, 2nd or 3rd week of bloom, 5th-6th week of bloom, Botanigard to runoff every 10 days. Worked great. Completely controlled [didn't erradicate]. Got a fine crop.
xxxstr8edgexxx,
Maybe I've been under a false impression. I do grow in coco80%/perlite20%. I thought that when there was a fairly long civil discussion on this awhile back, that the problem came from high pH. At the time I didn't notice that it was a difference between soil and coco. That's what you're saying? I thought that if you took some precautions, like preceding treatment with a low pH feeding, maybe with a acidifying drench, you would be OK.
Are you saying that the reaction comes from alkaline elements in the soil even if the medium is, overall, lower pH? -granger
Maybe he should do the 2 prong Botanigard and Nematodes approach. That worked well for me. Todes in veg, 2nd or 3rd week of bloom, 5th-6th week of bloom, Botanigard to runoff every 10 days. Worked great. Completely controlled [didn't erradicate]. Got a fine crop.
xxxstr8edgexxx,
Maybe I've been under a false impression. I do grow in coco80%/perlite20%. I thought that when there was a fairly long civil discussion on this awhile back, that the problem came from high pH. At the time I didn't notice that it was a difference between soil and coco. That's what you're saying? I thought that if you took some precautions, like preceding treatment with a low pH feeding, maybe with a acidifying drench, you would be OK.
Are you saying that the reaction comes from alkaline elements in the soil even if the medium is, overall, lower pH? -granger
Bad Habits
Member
I did the heat treatments in there with no plants as part of the deep-cleaning regimen. I figured with no plants it doesn't seem like hotter could hurt (unless I accidently burn't the house down lol!).
Awhile back in the thread I used a 60x iphone attachment scope and shot some videos of little critters (iirc you thought they were soil mites), but due to lack of detail it made it impossible to determine with 100% accuracy. So taking straight edges advice I decided to invest in a decent scope to know for sure. And the 400x isn't particularly accurate in terms of it's functionality, I know it has the "potential" to go to 400x, but reading reviews that more of a selling point however in reality anything past say 200x for example is too shakey and/or blurry to really use practically. I was looking for something more in the realistic 100-200x range, and I think this should fit the bill hopefully. I'll post some pics later.
no im actually speaking to my own experience. and it was my assessment of what happened to me after two attempts in soil. my comments should have been a little more qualified with the fact that they are anecdotal in nature and i didnt do a ton of digging and that was almost a year ago, that said i do remember there being people who burned their plants in soil. i also recall others in coco saying it worked fine. i never revivsited it after i rid myself of aphids. i havent seen them in many a moon. but it was a something that came up when this all happened and that i spent hours reading this thread and thats what i came to as my conclusion. i feel confident but i could certainly be wrong.
StankyBeamer
Professional A$$hole
Added some more weapons to my arsenal, got essential oils of rosemary, peppermint, clove, and cinnamon but the cinnamon I ordered was the wrong kind. Any advice on dosages of each per gallon of water? Got some tanglefoot on the way as well, figured I'd put some around the stalk of each plant and dunk every container in 120F water with essential oils prior to heat treating the house. Also I borrowed a steam cleaner, any areas I should focus on specifically?
so i have two flower rooms. one is attatched to veg room the other is in a seperate building. the one in the seperate building can be isolated. i harvested the v/f rooms and cleaned them bombed them and pulled the carpet out of the house all the house plants and washed and soaked all eqipment with hot ass water.
then i harvested the seperate standalone bloom room. cleaned and scrubbed and bombed it too. as i emptied the stand alone veg room of the treated and surviving plants to the cleanveg/bloom and the standalone bloom room.
i then cleaned and bombed the stand alone veg room.
the stand alone veg room is now my only place that is clean and isolated. from this point on i brought in no plants that werent treated for aphids. the second try at acephate again killed plants and thats when i made my discovery of the alkaline soil amendments theory.
remaining living plants allowed to veg while bloom is doing its thing.
at some point i discover the bloom rooms have some level of infestation. i start a heavy dose of pyrethrum and azadactrin. on a weekly basis,. this he;ld them down until i stopped that treatment. they then came back. one could only assume they were hiding in the room in the yard in the house etc.then the next round i loaded up the clean plants after i cleaned and bombed those bloom rooms. same sequence of events occurred.
all the while my mom veg room is clean from what i can tell but the bloom rooms have them again but its minimal. next round i decide after ringing my hadns im not willing to acephate again and im not willing to grow with aphids.
i allow a gap while i hit moms with imid and then the baby clones from the moms as well. they are now systemically protected at a young age in a clean room. i repeated this every round til i stopped seeing aphids. at some point i switched to kontos in early veg 2x 2 weeks apart. i abandoned the imid 2 rounds ago i beleive. however i dont keep notes like i should so the exact time line is a little faint and my last encounters with them were so minimal. to say i had them 3 rounds ago is overstateing the situation imo. id find one or 3 or 5 every couple weeks if i really searched and it was getting less every time i looked. the imid stopped when i couldnt fin them anymore but i still use kontos on babies and imid and kontos on moms only. but i dont keep old moms very frequently i usually clone my new cuts off the plants that dont go into bloom and then i toss em. old rootballs are a liability.
now i never ever ever under any circumstances bring plants or clones into my room that have bben in other rooms.
when i bring in new cuttings i take snips root them in quarantine and treat them with every fancy pharmaceutical systemic poison i can get my hands on as soon as they root a 4 inch cube. then i do it again and again til im sure i have no bugs and they grow fine.
even then i only take cuttings and bring them in unrooted and then i grow a single tiny clone to test it out with a cloned back up.
quarantine and use systemics on new moms and do it again to be sure. and then only bring in unrooted cuts from there.
i dont have a single bug in my room. and im not drenched in poison. if i use poison i make a dixie cup full and dunk snips and clones instead of a backpacksprayer. 0.1 mil of poison treats an entire generation of cuts so young theres no trace when grown out. that's way less toxic than doing it when they are big. theres no mathematical reasoning to think theres going to be traces from that small of a dose at that young of an age on my end product 3 months later.
sounds intense but i have chem free product and no bugs now. my mom room needs no treatment but moms get it anyway to be sure. ill likely drop that routine as well soon.
then i harvested the seperate standalone bloom room. cleaned and scrubbed and bombed it too. as i emptied the stand alone veg room of the treated and surviving plants to the cleanveg/bloom and the standalone bloom room.
i then cleaned and bombed the stand alone veg room.
the stand alone veg room is now my only place that is clean and isolated. from this point on i brought in no plants that werent treated for aphids. the second try at acephate again killed plants and thats when i made my discovery of the alkaline soil amendments theory.
remaining living plants allowed to veg while bloom is doing its thing.
at some point i discover the bloom rooms have some level of infestation. i start a heavy dose of pyrethrum and azadactrin. on a weekly basis,. this he;ld them down until i stopped that treatment. they then came back. one could only assume they were hiding in the room in the yard in the house etc.then the next round i loaded up the clean plants after i cleaned and bombed those bloom rooms. same sequence of events occurred.
all the while my mom veg room is clean from what i can tell but the bloom rooms have them again but its minimal. next round i decide after ringing my hadns im not willing to acephate again and im not willing to grow with aphids.
i allow a gap while i hit moms with imid and then the baby clones from the moms as well. they are now systemically protected at a young age in a clean room. i repeated this every round til i stopped seeing aphids. at some point i switched to kontos in early veg 2x 2 weeks apart. i abandoned the imid 2 rounds ago i beleive. however i dont keep notes like i should so the exact time line is a little faint and my last encounters with them were so minimal. to say i had them 3 rounds ago is overstateing the situation imo. id find one or 3 or 5 every couple weeks if i really searched and it was getting less every time i looked. the imid stopped when i couldnt fin them anymore but i still use kontos on babies and imid and kontos on moms only. but i dont keep old moms very frequently i usually clone my new cuts off the plants that dont go into bloom and then i toss em. old rootballs are a liability.
now i never ever ever under any circumstances bring plants or clones into my room that have bben in other rooms.
when i bring in new cuttings i take snips root them in quarantine and treat them with every fancy pharmaceutical systemic poison i can get my hands on as soon as they root a 4 inch cube. then i do it again and again til im sure i have no bugs and they grow fine.
even then i only take cuttings and bring them in unrooted and then i grow a single tiny clone to test it out with a cloned back up.
quarantine and use systemics on new moms and do it again to be sure. and then only bring in unrooted cuts from there.
i dont have a single bug in my room. and im not drenched in poison. if i use poison i make a dixie cup full and dunk snips and clones instead of a backpacksprayer. 0.1 mil of poison treats an entire generation of cuts so young theres no trace when grown out. that's way less toxic than doing it when they are big. theres no mathematical reasoning to think theres going to be traces from that small of a dose at that young of an age on my end product 3 months later.
sounds intense but i have chem free product and no bugs now. my mom room needs no treatment but moms get it anyway to be sure. ill likely drop that routine as well soon.
