saint
Member
EXACTLY, what went through my mind..... Not tryin to bring you down or nothing but you could possibly have found a used one for much cheaper. Either way, Hope it works out clean for ya, Good luck bro
Fridgidaire mini fridge demo and construction
- Thread starter Black Sheep
- Start date
EXACTLY, what went through my mind..... Not tryin to bring you down or nothing but you could possibly have found a used one for much cheaper. Either way, Hope it works out clean for ya, Good luck bro
R
r13f
I would say the doc was incorrect - mj has a 28 day detectible half-life, I got busted in the military 20 years ago 2 1/2 weeks after smoking. The testing can only have gotten better.
Black Sheep
Member
lol im kind of ocd about haveing my stuff new and clean. itl will be worth it if i get to finish. i do alot of fabrication in my line of work and im very anal, sometimes a lil too anal, so the end product will be a work of art.
Black Sheep
Member
thanx for the support Disco and saint. iv read somewhere that if you dont smoke often that its easy to flush with plenty of water. so i did, it was enough to pass the onsite and a home test.
P
phr3d0m2gr0
Damn I really want to see this build continue! Hope you pass.
As far as fans side-by-side I think you would ideally get double the CFM. So probably in the real world just a bit lower than double the CFM.
-Phr3
As far as fans side-by-side I think you would ideally get double the CFM. So probably in the real world just a bit lower than double the CFM.
-Phr3
daddy fingaz
Active member
Hey Black Sheep good to see your using a fridge, lookin forward to seein sum pix!
Ive been fridge growing for a couple of years now, got various construction pics in my album if u wanna take a look!
Ive been fridge growing for a couple of years now, got various construction pics in my album if u wanna take a look!
Me too. Can't wait to see what the demo man has in store.
EDIT: "demo" and construction man, that is
EDIT: "demo" and construction man, that is
Black Sheep
Member
well so far so good but it usualy takes more than one day for the lab, i believe.
i thought that i seen something to the affect about the cfm. i know i said that i had settled on the dayton fans but again i am indecisive on this topic. im thinking that i may keep it simple and not go with the mother/clone freezer. i only have one grow under my belt and im not sure if i can handle a mom in sucha tight space just yet. idk
daddy fingaz: ya i think il like growing in the mini fridge set up. its looking like il be cutting into it saturday night and il take sum pics n postem. i seen the construction pics in your album. that insulation isa pain to deal with isnt it? nice grow pics also
disco biscuit: lol the demo and construction man is short on time but i think hel be able 2 get a good bit done this weekend.
i would of quoted all three of you but i dont know how to multiquote yet
im sorry for my indecisiveness but iv got two options with this build. 1: mom and clone in freezer and four smaller fans for exhaust. 2.use the freezer to house the outlet strip, timer, air pumps for the dwc, remote ballast, and a panisonic whisper fan for exhaust.
im thinking that il have extra room to store the nutes in there also, if i properly organize it. option 2 will also be easier and quicker to build. but option 1 would be bad azz whwen finished. im leaning towards option 2 for now and when i get some more experience i may seel this one and build option 1.
The multi-quote button is right of the Quick Reply button.
P
phr3d0m2gr0
I would vote option 2. The thing is that you could include a mother/clone chamber, but in the end it'll probably make the fridge less stealthy. I think building a separate small cabinet for mom's and clone's would be a better choice. As far as nutrients just keep those in some cabinet or something with labels ripped off or something. It's not necessary to put it in there. Keep the freezer clear of extra stuff and use it to make good stealthy ventilation.
-Phr3
-Phr3
Black Sheep
Member
Disco: thanx that was easy lol
phr3dom: thanx for the advice, again. i made a list of parts for both options and how i would do the build and option 2 is the cleanest, easiest, quickest, and cheapest way to go. it makes more sense to go with optioin 2 also because of my lack of experience. i have a bad tendency to jump in over my head. and since i already have a low profile 50 cfm panisonic whisper fan thats less il have to get.
well day made it through day two and im still employed. two more to go and i should be out of the woods and in the clear.
Black Sheep
Member
good news everybody its friday and i still have a job. the build is back on. il be cutting into the fridge tomorrow night and the pics will be posted by sunday afternoon. until then peace.
Black Sheep
Member
alrite i got started on gutting the fridge and now i understand exactly what KolorBlind meant when he said that he would not do this again even if he was to get paid for it. i worked on it for aroound 4 hours and didnt get near as far as i hoped i would but heres some pics. hopefully next time i get to work on it il get it completely gutted.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=7999&pictureid=148732
as you can see theres 3"s of insulation on just 1 side so il gain 6"s of grow space.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=7999&pictureid=148734
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=7999&pictureid=148735
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=7999&pictureid=148742
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=7999&pictureid=148743
iv still got from the "hump" down yet to go plus i also need to scrape the upper walls and get the last of the insulation. unfortunately there is a seam at the front where the doors open that the white inner plastic is some how stuck in. im going to have to figure out how to remove it from there without damageing the fridge in the process. any ides anyone?
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=7999&pictureid=148732
as you can see theres 3"s of insulation on just 1 side so il gain 6"s of grow space.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=7999&pictureid=148734
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=7999&pictureid=148735
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=7999&pictureid=148742
http://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=7999&pictureid=148743
iv still got from the "hump" down yet to go plus i also need to scrape the upper walls and get the last of the insulation. unfortunately there is a seam at the front where the doors open that the white inner plastic is some how stuck in. im going to have to figure out how to remove it from there without damageing the fridge in the process. any ides anyone?
Black Sheep
Member
quick question. how do i post a pic in a reply without posting the url? agin forgive me im a newb.
I wonder if you can maintain door rigidity/integrity if the plastic shelves are removed. If you've got a table saw and the time, anything could be fashioned if you have to ditch the plastic. I never would have guessed that fridge having 3" thick insulation. That's a pretty good increase in space. I'm thinking this could be one of the stealthier grow containers at IC.
That hump is gonna be a challenge to cover and keep things neat. I hope you don't mind the suggestion but Wacky Wood is a pliable, sheet, wood-like product that might make a suitable floor. Cut to spec, inside width x depth, I think you could contact cement that stuff in place solid. Depending on the finish, you may have to water proof it with some exterior paint or any type of water barrier finish. If you can't get the wacky wood local, 1/8" Masonite would also be flexible enough to glue in place. It'll need a water barrier finish as well to prevent damage to the smoothness. I use both of these to make the scoop in speaker cabinets and it's lots easier than trying to water bath/bend 1/8" plywood. If you use glue, contact cement is best because you apply it to both sides of the glue joint, let it dry completely and pray you get it right the first time when you slap em together because it won't give a second chance. Come to think of it, several layers of thin vinyl might be easier than the wood like stuff.
To post pics, click Post Reply at the bottom left side of page. You'll get the post window. Select the album and navigate to your pics. The album windows open up half size so you can drag the pic to your post on the main screen. If you want your post to show full size size pics, click on the thumbnail in the small window to expand it. Drag the expanded pic to your post. Otherwise, dragging a thumbnail to your post will allow the reader to expand if they wish. Dragging thumbnails works great when you post multiple pics, pages load faster and peeps w/o a fast connection can still enjoy your threads w/o a long page-load wait. Obviously, expanded picks make a more impressive journal, IMO. I do a little of both. Good luck with the project.
EDIT: If that hump angle is close to 90 degrees, just build a stair step and save yourself a lot of trouble. I just imagined it more like a slope kind of thing.
That hump is gonna be a challenge to cover and keep things neat. I hope you don't mind the suggestion but Wacky Wood is a pliable, sheet, wood-like product that might make a suitable floor. Cut to spec, inside width x depth, I think you could contact cement that stuff in place solid. Depending on the finish, you may have to water proof it with some exterior paint or any type of water barrier finish. If you can't get the wacky wood local, 1/8" Masonite would also be flexible enough to glue in place. It'll need a water barrier finish as well to prevent damage to the smoothness. I use both of these to make the scoop in speaker cabinets and it's lots easier than trying to water bath/bend 1/8" plywood. If you use glue, contact cement is best because you apply it to both sides of the glue joint, let it dry completely and pray you get it right the first time when you slap em together because it won't give a second chance. Come to think of it, several layers of thin vinyl might be easier than the wood like stuff.
To post pics, click Post Reply at the bottom left side of page. You'll get the post window. Select the album and navigate to your pics. The album windows open up half size so you can drag the pic to your post on the main screen. If you want your post to show full size size pics, click on the thumbnail in the small window to expand it. Drag the expanded pic to your post. Otherwise, dragging a thumbnail to your post will allow the reader to expand if they wish. Dragging thumbnails works great when you post multiple pics, pages load faster and peeps w/o a fast connection can still enjoy your threads w/o a long page-load wait. Obviously, expanded picks make a more impressive journal, IMO. I do a little of both. Good luck with the project.
EDIT: If that hump angle is close to 90 degrees, just build a stair step and save yourself a lot of trouble. I just imagined it more like a slope kind of thing.
Black Sheep
Member
hey DB i plan on useing 1/2" mdf for the walls and floors. and il be completely removeing the hump so i can get every availabe square inch out of this thing. and sugestions are always welcome and apreciated. iv never heard of Whacky Wood before il definitely have to check it out. would i have to find that online or would Lowes carry that? and once again thanks for the tutalige with the posting.
Black Sheep
Member
hey HerbGlace come on in bro.
DB: i forgot to ad that il be bonding the mdf with PL polyurathane construction adhesive. loctite said that itl hold up to 1200 psi. i already had a gallon of flat white indoor/outdoor latex paint for a ngb cab that i was going to build so il use here instead. im also thinking of spreading some fiberglass resin all in the interior of the cab so itl fill in the corners and make it apear seemless and aid in keeping any places for light to leak out.
iv got an exhaust question for anyone out there that would know what i need to do. il be useing the panisonic 50 cfm whisper fan as metioned before. i know it operates with little noise but im worried about the noise of the air wooshing out the vent. should i make a little space for the fan to exhaust into and basically make it into a muffler with some kind of filter material? i was thinking of useing the cloth carbon filter material for this. any and all sugestions are welcome.
DB: i forgot to ad that il be bonding the mdf with PL polyurathane construction adhesive. loctite said that itl hold up to 1200 psi. i already had a gallon of flat white indoor/outdoor latex paint for a ngb cab that i was going to build so il use here instead. im also thinking of spreading some fiberglass resin all in the interior of the cab so itl fill in the corners and make it apear seemless and aid in keeping any places for light to leak out.
iv got an exhaust question for anyone out there that would know what i need to do. il be useing the panisonic 50 cfm whisper fan as metioned before. i know it operates with little noise but im worried about the noise of the air wooshing out the vent. should i make a little space for the fan to exhaust into and basically make it into a muffler with some kind of filter material? i was thinking of useing the cloth carbon filter material for this. any and all sugestions are welcome.
To tell you the honest truth (I guess I lied 
) I ended up going with Masonite but the guy that suggested WW said it's just as flexible and I wouldn't have to layer it. Long story short, never sourced it.
So you're gonna cut the hump eh? You're more of a mechanic/ construction guru than I gave credit. What are you gonna do, saws-all? Eye protection and a mask wouldn't be a bad idea. I bet that metal is pretty thin and pliable, (being a new model and all.) It'll probably be easier to cut and remove the hump than it will be to cut a circle-hole for the intake/duct, whatever. A metal hole saw any bigger than 2" might try to walk with ya. If it's thin enough and you've gotta mean grip, tin snips might do the trick.
It might be a good idea to have your interior construction measurments written down before you cut the hump. It's good and square before the cut and measuring afterward could prove to be difficult w/o getting it perfectly square first.
) I ended up going with Masonite but the guy that suggested WW said it's just as flexible and I wouldn't have to layer it. Long story short, never sourced it.So you're gonna cut the hump eh? You're more of a mechanic/ construction guru than I gave credit. What are you gonna do, saws-all? Eye protection and a mask wouldn't be a bad idea. I bet that metal is pretty thin and pliable, (being a new model and all.) It'll probably be easier to cut and remove the hump than it will be to cut a circle-hole for the intake/duct, whatever. A metal hole saw any bigger than 2" might try to walk with ya. If it's thin enough and you've gotta mean grip, tin snips might do the trick.
It might be a good idea to have your interior construction measurments written down before you cut the hump. It's good and square before the cut and measuring afterward could prove to be difficult w/o getting it perfectly square first.
