Following H3ad's Formula (1000W - 5 plants)

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Also- I use tap water in 1 gallon Crystal Geyser water bottles that have sat for at least 24 hours at room temps. 48 hours is best, if it works out that way.

 

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[stoned40yrs]

You should have used 2gal smarties instead of 5.
The more fibers in the coco the better. Cheap coco doesn't have very many.
Big mistake to plan on dropping out the micro after buds form. The full 6/9 is used till the final flush. At most you can reduce the 6/9 to 2/9 in the final week before flushing.

 

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[stoned40yrs]

I can't believe Head wrote that you drop the micro after week two which is about how long it takes for the buds to start forming. That's crazy, the micro has all the N the plant needs in bloom. I know how everyone here uses 6/9 because I read a hell of a lot on here. You can cut the micro down in late bloom but that's it.
You bought shit coco and you did not precharge it the right way. You may develop deficiencies. After flushing out the tannis in the coco and getting clear runoff you let it soak in full strength 6/9 with like about 5ml/gal of calmag. Let it sit for hours or a day and then flush it with 1/2 strength 6/9. Drain it and it's ready to go. What's going to happen now the way you did it is the coco is going to steal cal and mag and other things from the feed each time you feed/water it until it balances the cation bank. These stolen nutes will not be available to the plant now and deficiencies may develop.

 

[Bwanabud]

I always ran 6/9 thru till last week at 3/9 then flush.

 

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[stoned40yrs]

I bought a bottle of Calmagic in advance, in case I start having cal/mag deficiencies, but as of right now, because it's so early in, I haven't seen any problems.
Thanks for the info.

You may luck out. Just telling you what can happen when the cation bank isn't balanced in new coco. I run 6/9 in veg only and even new clones or seedlings get full strength no problem. If you don't have powerful lights on the plants usually you have to run 3/4.5 instead of full 6/9. Your grow, you can run any ratio you want. 6/9 at least till 3 weeks before finish will give you the best yield. It ain't rocket science- if the tips don't burn you aren't feeding too high. If the leaves are lime green or yellowish instead of green you need more micro. If the leaves are dark green you have too much micro. Watch the plants and feed according to what you see.

 

[Bwanabud]

Did you happen to use the coco flush technique Stoned40 suggested? If not, did you notice any deficiencies using the 6/9 formula?

Thanks

Yes & no

Yes I flush and fill the cation exchange bank, and if you don't deficiencies will be coming. I use a different coco and base nute than you, the coco is pre-buffered...and stick to the 6/9 run to the end.

If you don't then the bank will run dry, and can't give any up to the plant...then you try to play catch-up, and generally never win the game.

PS: Stoned40 knows his shit, take his advice and enjoy a good crop. Many great growers on Icmag, many that know much more than me...I'm here to share and learn.

 

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[Bwanabud]

DP your quoted [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]HEAD'S FORMULA appears to be incorrect, per post #191 he states this:

[/FONT]

OK guys... time for an update... been running the GH in coco for a bit now, and have made a couple of slight changes...

I'm now running the 6 and 9 ratio up to the first third of 12/12, then 6 and 12 for 1 week, then just 9ml/gal bloom with no micro up until the last three weeks, which are just distilled water...

I'm sacrificing some of the yield for an improvement in the flavor and burn of the final product...

Then is questioned by member

How do you avoid deficiency going 4+ weeks using a solution without micronutrients? Do plants store enough in tissue to go this long?
Finally, what percentage of yield lost would you estimate?
gregor_mendel

And responds with this

How do I avoid micronute deficiency?
Several factors...
first off, like you mention, is the nutrient stored in the plant...
Second, the nutrient cations held by the coco...
Third, the plants don't need loads of micros or nitrogen to swell and ripen flowers...

Arrived at the timing thru Trial and error, and collaboration with others I consider expert GH growers... Leaving the Micro in the mix any longer, I can tell it's still there in the smoke...

Properly flushing necessitates using up as much of the nutrient as possible that the plant has stored, so you have to time the removal of an element based on the time it takes the plant to metabolize all of it's stores...

As far as yield 'losses'... I'd say 10%... but that's somewhat an illusion as well, since I'd much rather have 10% less of a clean burning top notch product, than a few extra ounces of a throat burning harshness...



View Image View Image

He has altered the original feed rate after first 4 weeks for taste and burn, sacrificing yield and some overall plant health.

I'll finish reviewing the thread, it's Christmas eve and 200 more pages of reading isn't on the schedule today

 

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[Bwanabud]

I'm not disagreeing with his method, but 6/9 thru to 4/5th week...then 2/9 or 3/9 up to flush is a standard feed rate. Obviously utilizing additives YOUR grow may/may not need in Epson or CaMg, added to the mix based on plants uptake.

Merry Christmas all,

 

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