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First grow, Deep Chunk open pollination

pipeline

Cannabotanist
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Looking good! Yeah variegation is ok, Dubi was discussing that the other day. It wont affect yield.

Yeah go ahead and bury it but leave it tall enough for the cotyledons to stay out of the soil, if possible.

I recommend blending the 2 different container media to have a uniform consistency throughout the rootzone. This will help the container dry out more evenly.
 

greencalyx

Active member
Premium user
Coolio. I was hoping it was just variagation, but wasn't sure. Good to know it doesn't affect yield. Looks cool

I guess I'll just bury the most affected ones maybe a couple inches and leave an inch or two under the cotyledons. Most are sturdy and ok, I think. Just 3-4 that may need a lil more support.

Good point on mixing the media. It definitely was an experience having this quick drying coir layer on top of potting soil. Would not recommend, lol
I have plenty of experience germing (veggie) seeds in either, but both layered like that was wierd.
 

revegeta666

Well-known member
There's still a long way to go until flower but if I may suggest you start looking for a source of calcium, because under modern lights calcium consumption goes way up and you're going to have to prepare your soil for it or use a Calmag product which brings its own problems in soil (excess nitrogen, chelated products not ideal for soil growing).

I personally add 5g/L of dolomite lime to the soil mix for the last repot before going into flower, just to give you a suggestion.
 

revegeta666

Well-known member
What about watering with really hard tap water?

My area's tap water has ~250ppm of total minerals and 140 of that is calcium.
I used to add Calmag to RO water until EC 0.4 for a long time, now I make a soil and give them water only. I am not sure how much EC 0.4 is in ppm, take a look online if you want, take into account that EC to ppm conversion coefficient varies from EU to US and other regions.

Take a look at your soil if it comes with some calcium already as well, I'm not familiar with the brands you're using.
 

greencalyx

Active member
Premium user
If I was looking at the right conversion, an EC of .4 is equal to 200ppm. And the soil has 1% calcium from oyster shell and dolomite lime.

I think that should be OK. I'll keep watering with tap water and see how it goes.
 

greencalyx

Active member
Premium user
My town switched from chlorine to chloramine a couple years ago. Unfortunately, chloramine cannot be evaporated out. It can be removed with a filter, however. Soil filters it pretty well. It binds to the organic acids and soil particles, and the chlorine is inactive in this state (doesn't harm microbes), but that means it'll just keep building up in a potted plant.

Also, I am not sure how/if chlorine/chloramine directly affects cannabis.

Definitely something to think about more. I would probably need to water with RO/distilled at least sometimes to leach some of that buildup out.

Or I could just go with just RO water, but all the calcium in the tap water seems really convenient...

I hear vitamin c is really effective at removing chlorine/chloramine. Like a gram can remove the chlorine from 40gallons of water. That small amount shouldn't affect ph
 

greencalyx

Active member
Premium user
3 week update.

I moved them into 2gal "trade" pots, which are actually 1.6gal. I guess it rounds up to 2, lol

I'll give them some water now. I gave them about a cup and a half each when transplanted, and none since. Trying to be careful not to over water until they grow more into the new pot.

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flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
Thanks for the tip. I was pretty surprised at how dry it was in there once I got the probe set up. I thought felt humid in there compared to the rest of the house. The rest of the house must be bone dry, haha. It is sub-zero outside currently, so I shouldn't be too surprised

I have a humidifier, but it's not a cool mist. And it's surprisingly warm in that room when the door is shut.

I think I'll put some open containers of water in there for now. Maybe I'll get a cool mist later
Growing in the winter with the drier ambient RH usually requires adding moisture to the air. In the summer the opposite is the case. I feel like the plants get water through the leaves when they are small and don’t have a big root system. I keep the RH around 60 then, moving toward 50% as the plants approach flip time.

I filter my water and still smell chlorine when I fill up the container I move water to the reservoir in. Run a bubbler in the water, or find another way to aerate it. That will help evaporate away the chemicals. It also raises the pH, so watch that.
Just my observation after just a few runs.

I am watching this, as I have some chunky plants growing also.
 

pipeline

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Check the temperature/ relative humidity correlation value Vapor Deficit Pressure (VDP). Low VDP can lead to lower heavy mineral cation uptake due to less mass flow I guess.

Shiva was telling me about it. He has had experience using the value to dial in the plants an solve deficiencies.
vapor deficit pressure is likely too high . v.d.p related. the spectrum is fine, maybe lacking radiant heat .. if led grown, likely low heat and high pressure. but essentially is v.d.p related. research it , v.d.p indoor growing


it could be a calcium and mag issue if the base nutrient they are using isn't supplying these elements . if they are using complete base nutrients then the room is not dialled in for the strain

 

pipeline

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Looking great, got them potted up and they're starting to move now. I think they're big enough, I would go ahead and water to saturation where runs out the bottom. Just don't water again for about half a week or a week until they need it. Lift the containers to determine water needs, but also in a couple spots could check the top of the soil with your finger.

Said it was your first grow, not sure how new to growing plants you are.
 

pipeline

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We would add chlorine at the nursery into the irrigation water to keep the lines clean and prevent algae I think it was. A certain rate is acceptable for watering plants. I would prefer RH though I think. Municipal tap should be alright. Could find town water test if publicly available and it would tell you Clorine ppm.
 

pipeline

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What type of lights are you using plays into it too I guess because that causes heat and must change the VDP a little bit. Cooler lights tend to have problems with calcium/magnesium I think he said. I guess its the infared spectrum of the light.
 

greencalyx

Active member
Premium user
It always interested me how/why plants need more calcium with leds. And from what I gathered, it definitely seems related to the points you brought up. Namely VPD and temperature, which both play a role in how quickly water/nutrients are moved through the plant.

IR seems important too. Maybe because it is getting leaf temp higher than room temp?

We would add chlorine at the nursery into the irrigation water to keep the lines clean and prevent algae I think it was. A certain rate is acceptable for watering plants. I would prefer RH though I think. Municipal tap should be alright. Could find town water test if publicly available and it would tell you Clorine ppm.

Good to know.

Unfortunately, my town doesn't have the chlorine data available online. I'll see if I can give them a call/email or something.

Since this is a seed run, I'm not TOO concerned with getting perfect bud quality (I'll still try my best). But I mean, maybe I'll see how the tap water fares this round and change if needed for the sinsemilla run. I'll definitely flush with RO water for finishing though
 

greencalyx

Active member
Premium user
Does this look like overwatering, or something else?

The plants are slightly lighter in color close to the edges, and the edges are drooping. I watered to saturation on Saturday, and from what I can remember, the most affected plants (just about 2-3plants) were ones that still had some moisture leftover and I "topped them off" so all the pots had equal moisture.

Also, I was thinking about topping so I can get some clones. I guess I should wait until plants are healthy again to do this?

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revegeta666

Well-known member
Leaves are looking a bit puffy and droopy as you said so I think it could well be some overwatering.

Topping the plants really is not that much of a stress but they are still quite small, I would let them grow a couple more nodes personally. Depends on what structure you want to give the plants really and your timing.
 

Limeygreen

Well-known member
Veteran
They look a tad bit over watered, should come back just fine. Personally I would wait until they have some steam in them before topping maybe another couple weeks, maybe 3 depending how they look.
 
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