nukklehead
Active member
There is nothing wrong with digis .... Just have a backup mag... get it?? Failure is not an option.... ( Apollo 13)
This advanced electronic ballast supports both High Pressure Sodium (HPS) and Metal Halide (MH) bulbs, giving the grower the flexibility to choose the best selection simply by changing the bulb, instead of having to own two separate light systems. MH is used for accelerated vegetative growth, then switch to HPS to encourage flowering, fruiting and budding. Reasons to Choose Digital Electronic Ballast: ? Fast startup - reaches full brightness in less than 1/4 the time of most magnetic ballasts ? Completely silent - no more of the humming and buzzing ? Small, compact design - most electronic models weigh less than 10 pounds compared to 44 pounds for magnetic ballasts ? Longer bulb life - lumen output loss over time is dramatically less than with magnetic ballats ? Electronic ballast lights both MH and HPS lamps ? More lumen output - up to 20% more lumen output than regular ballasts ? Heat sink technology
Electronic ballasts (digital ballast)
An electronic ballast uses solid state electronic circuitry to provide the proper starting and operating electrical conditions to power discharge lamps. An electronic ballast can be smaller and lighter than a comparably-rated magnetic one. The ballast may be "potted" (filled) with a resin to protect the circuit boards and components from moisture and vibration. An electronic ballast is usually quieter than a magnetic one, which produces a line-frequency hum by vibration of the transformer laminations.[citation needed]
Electronic ballasts are often based on the SMPS topology, first rectifying the input power and then chopping it at a high frequency. Advanced electronic ballasts may allow dimming via pulse-width modulation or via changing the frequency to a higher value. Ballasts incorporating a microcontroller (digital ballasts) may offer remote control and monitoring via networks such as LonWorks, DALI, DMX512, DSI or simple analog control using a 0-10 V DC brightness control signal. Systems with remote control of light level via a wireless mesh network have been introduced.
Remote control operation of electronic ballasts with integrated digital timer has been introduced as of recent. Mainly for use in the horticultural industry.[3] Because of the increased popularity of indoor gardening, advances have been made to existing products in order to eliminate unnecessary external components that may be required, making things simply more and more convenient.
The only difference that I am aware of between an "electronic" ballast and a "digital" is whether or not they incorporate a microprocessor. I think that some of the very simple electronic ballasts for fluorescent lamps may still be a straight "electronic" ballast, but they are probably going the way of the dodo also. If there are any features present besides power in>power out, it is almost invariably cheaper to do it digitally than with a bunch of analog parts. When you start ramping up the power, doing lamp end-of-life sensing, delayed re-starts on power loss, the ability to strike different types of lamps, variable wattage output, etc, etc, it is far cheaper to stick in a dedicated microprocessor than to build up a bunch of isolated circuits to take care of each different instance. You can get far more versatility with fewer components and higher overall reliability with the digital format.
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i'm sorry but i still don't get it...so basically electric and digital are the same but digitals have a programmed chip that controls the features (meaning soft starts and sensing old bulbs and junk, variable wattages), and the electronic ballasts use electric components to achieve some limited features(like a basic soft start and the ability to change from hps to mh)? is that about right? the power coming from them is achieved through the same means, but the ability to replace almost all of the electronic components with a single chip that can do infinitely more gives you more space to work with and more room to program fancy high end features?
but say i didn't want any fancy features, i just wanted something that a plug goes in, and a plug goes out, it runs both main bulbs and has a soft start...
well now that i know digitals and electronics are the same i wonder if i can even find magnetic ballasts easily, since i haven't used one since i took a break for growing like 7 years ago...and apparently every no name ballast i look at is electric and not magnetic...also the one i have is completely generic and is 2 years old...i switched from a 430w to 400w bulb and it got a lot cooler, it's silent, and my plants like it...it will even let me use mh wich i didn't know i could do...it's definately something to think about in the future...but i wonder why should i buy a name brand like you recomend if, from what most people say, the people that make lumiteks and galaxy's buy their ballasts from the same factories that make the generics, they pick the features and heat sink they want, slap their own stickers on, but inside they are all the same? i'm not saying that they for sure are that way, but from everything ive read trying to get an answer to this suggests that this is true...Don't worry about the definition of electronic vs digital. They are effectively the same. What you should concentrate on is electronic/digital vs magnetic ballast. If buying an electronic/digital ballast, it's more important to pay attention to brand IMO. I run Lumateks exclusively. I really like the dimmer switch feature, and have used it extensively, but even without it these are great ballasts and worth every penny.
yup been saying it for years. You can rebuild one in about 1hr, and they make almost no noise when properly cared for.Just can't get past all the threads on digital ballasts with issues. Where's the money saved when you can't whip it open and repair it for $20-30... right there on the spot.
Magnetic all the way. Quality ballasts (as people have repeatedly pointed out) are nearly silent, don't get all that hot and last nearly forever.
Stay Safe!
yup been saying it for years. You can rebuild one in about 1hr, and they make almost no noise when properly cared for.
Good point. Anything other than checking wirenuts and screws annually, what else can be done to properly care for? Thanks