Drip clean by H&G used so that 10% runoff isn't needed.

[cannaboy]

I bought proporgator bottoms as run off trays there half the price of the pots I use and you can just bottom feed with A+ results achived 1 top and 1 bottom feed in secsession. 78p each I used to hand feed over 70 at a time in this method not as easy as a dripper system but when the plants get older/bigger you can't just run a pump like it was week 2 because youll starve the plants and again fllod them at the end.

I like the bottom feed simple and I can go away for a weekend and not have any ph ec worries or pump failure In heinsight anything but a pot with soil is deemed advanced and the penalties go up so NO timers pumps fancy kit and a good grower needs nothing but light dirt water all else are modern day luxeries..

 

[puff adder]

I check the runoff of my (FTW in 3 gal pots with catch trays, using head/rez recipe) coco grows, and it is always higher than what goes in. I stopped caring about that and now just look for major changes indicating a problem. If I notice a PH change I know something is wrong.

Usually feed strength is around 1000ppm, and runoff is usually 1200-1500, but when it's off the chart, or the PH goes down, I flush with a feeding or 2 of really really weak solution (1/8 strength). Never used drip clean or anything else. This next run I will be trying a flushing agent for final flush.

I religiously control what goes IN, and observe the runoff with a grain of salt. You can chase your tail trying to dial in runoff PPM's. So far, a weak feeding/flush every 7-10 days has kept everything working fine.

 

[KosmoKramer]

I would say runoff pH is more important than ppms. Not too sure, as I stated, but runoff pH should probably be in the area of 5.5-6.0 for soil-less mdieums. According to Rez (coco specific), you should adjust your nutes going IN so your runoff is in the acceptable pH range. I would assume this is probably what your looking for regardless of medium. Your runoff ppms "should" be higher, as you are pushing excess out from your medium, and mixing this with fresh full strenght nutes, as you are feeding.

For example. If your nutes are pH'd at 5.8, and your runoff is 6.3, you have a +.5 pH point differential. Mix your nutes at 5.5, and your runoff should be around 6.0 (if thats your target). Using the same differential, if your looking for 5.5 runoff, adjust your nutes to 5.0, and your runoff should come out at 5.5, ect.

As I stated, I run DWC, so don't take what I'm saying as final word. Just reiterating what I've absorbed from visiting different threads/forums.

Information is the key. Read, test, take notes, and read some more! The more info you can cram into your melon, the better grower you'll become. And keep plenty of notes. I have 3+ years of monthly planners that I can refer back to whenever needed!

 

[Carl Carlson]

Easy bub. Been here at IC for over 3 years in one form or another, so don't go throwin dirt without knowing the facts!

I think Guywithoutajeep was talking about the television character Kosmo Kramer and not you the poster.

Guywithoutajeep

Mistress is like our Dwight K Schrute or our Kozmo Kramer or our Rain Man.

 

[Carl Carlson]

I would say runoff pH is more important than ppms.

The only problem I have with relying on runoff to test the pH or the EC is that it seems it is always going to include some or may actually be composed entirely of the pH adjusted irrigation water containing the nutes that was just fed to the plant.

Does this make sense to anyone else?

For the sake of accuracy, take it a couple of steps further:

PourThru Sampling

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/floriculture/crop/crop_PTS.htm

 

[Carl Carlson]

I must say that the plants seam fine, and actually show a bit def.

Where on the plant are those leaves from? Top, bottom, middle?

Much easier to diagnose knowing this, i.e. mobile vs. immobile nutrients.

 

[*mistress*]

 

[YosemiteSam]

out of curiosity...has mistress imagined the use of drip clean?

 

[*mistress*]

.............

 

[YosemiteSam]

I am with you on the polysorbs...I suspect they are a part of the drip clean formula...slightly more sophisticated chemically than your avg good quality dish soap though.

Plus I agree most of the stuff offered is not needed and most of it probably does more harm than good. However, if I was running any system with small tubing involved drip clean would be in the mix for me. Preventing salt buildup in the medium/plant...I wouldn't use it for that but I cannot say from personal experience it wouldn't work.
​

 

[redheadfreakin]

but, have used gh flora klEEn, which is same type product.
& clearex many, many moon ago.

Product same not.

 

[MaynardG_Krebs]

Product same not.

Took the letters right off my fingers..

mgk

 

[attila76]

Dude thats the best thing I've seen in a while. Thank you so much.

The one thing that I have hated about soilless growing is these somewhat in "in the dark" rather mysterious, undocumented principles of soilless nute management. I haven't felt secure about my method of sampling and measurement.

Nor, until now, have I had a solid fix on the proper PH for soilless. Oh crap... maybe some of my problems are a ph related. I give them 6.1- 6.3. But she just tested at 6.7! They call for 5.5-6.0 range.

Got some nutes to make up.....

Big Up!

....PourThru Sampling

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/floriculture/crop/crop_PTS.htm

 

[*mistress*]

growth media for container grown plants, techs:

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=3132632&postcount=144
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=3132801&postcount=145


clea^rex:

A common cause of crop failure is the buildup of nutrient salt deposits in soils or soilless growth media. Clearex is a scientifically formulated isotonic drench solution, which effectively binds with the excess nutrient salt and safely leaches it from the soil.

superle^ch:

Superleach dissolves the salt and mineral buildup in your
growing medium. Leaching is done to remove unused minerals and metals from the growth medium. If left they would build up to toxic levels and cause deficiency symptoms.
Thoroughly flushes away not only fertilizer salts but also minerals, lead, zinc, copper and other heavy metals, which come in contact with the water supply or nutrient solution.
Removes calcium from hard water.
Removes sodium and chloride from soft water.
Superleach is gentle and salt balanced so as to not shock the plant like straight water flushing does.
Superleach is buffered ensuring correct ph levels at all time.

fl0Ra KlEEn:

Product Use: A flush solution for removing nutrient residues from hydroponics systems
General Hydroponics Flora Kleen Cleaning Flush Solution is a light blue aqueous solution of
chemicals mixed in concentrations to remove nutrient residues from hydroponics systems.
• Dissolves accumulated fertilizer salts.
• Reduces plant stress from excess and imbalanced nutrients.
• Releases nutrient bonds between plants and systems, also correcting nutrient lock-out.
G*neral Hidroponics FloreKleEn removes fertilizer residues that can accumulate over time in hydroponic systems, growing media, and potting soils. Use Fl0raKleeen monthly to purge your hydroponic system or potted plants of excess salts that can accumulate as a result of regular fertilizer application. Flor&Kleen is an excellent final flush, and can be used at any time to dissolve mineral and salt buildup.

Dr!p CleaN:

Drip Clean works like a magnet, removing dirt particles at every nutrient feeding so that the piping remains clean
These concern engineered compounds; one particle has been removed from their structure. The incomplete element thus works as a magnet. As molecules always seek a complete structure, Drip Clean attracts dirt particles with every nutrient feeding keeping the drip emitters or aeroponic misters squeaky clean.

 

[Carl Carlson]

Dude thats the best thing I've seen in a while. Thank you so much.

The one thing that I have hated about soilless growing is these somewhat in "in the dark" rather mysterious, undocumented principles of soilless nute management. I haven't felt secure about my method of sampling and measurement.

fyi: http://www.staugorchidsociety.org/culturewater.htm

pH Management and Plant Nutrition, by Bill Argo

Part 1 Intro
Part 2 Water Quality
Part 3 Fertilizers
Part 4 Substrates
Part 5 Choosing the Best Fertilizers

http://www.greenhousegrower.com/production/?storyid=2890&style=1

Addressing pH Problems
Fine-tuning your substrate pH is all about the nitrogen. If you control it, you’re in control.

By Matt Taylor and Dieter Lohr
January 2010

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/floriculture/plugs/ghsubfert.pdf

Greenhouse Substrates and Fertilization
Douglas A. Bailey, William C. Fonteno, and Paul V. Nelson
Department of Horticultural Science, NCSU

 

[THC_Decapitator]

i cant even read and enjoy this thread about a subject I was interested in . so much garbage in it !


are you a tweeker ?

 

[Lazyman]

I think you guys read Mistress' post and saw the word soap, but the interesting bit is trisodium phospate, commononly sold as TSP at most home-improvement stores as a dry powder. mix with water and used for prepping walls for paint, it removes all sorts of crud.

So the question becomes, is TSP a good substitute for Drip Clean? It would certainly be cheaper than any bottle off a hydro store shelf, and since Drip Clean has low application rates, I bet an undiluted dry product would go even further. Just hypothesizing.

 

[Carl Carlson]

nah maybe not

 

[grapeman]

I think you guys read Mistress' post and saw the word soap, but the interesting bit is trisodium phospate, commononly sold as TSP at most home-improvement stores as a dry powder. mix with water and used for prepping walls for paint, it removes all sorts of crud.

So the question becomes, is TSP a good substitute for Drip Clean? It would certainly be cheaper than any bottle off a hydro store shelf, and since Drip Clean has low application rates, I bet an undiluted dry product would go even further. Just hypothesizing.

I wouldn't use it for maintaining your hoses pipes or emitters.

sulfuric acid at very low rates does a much better job of that.

 

[Lazyman]

I have more than a couple emitters and hoses, i'd go through a drum of sulfuric acid every couple months. I'll grab some tsp next time I'm at home depot and try some on a crusty old chunk of hose and see what happens, i'm particularly interested in learning what concentration and contact time it takes.