JustSumTomatoes
Indicas make dreams happen
Kill those bastards! Never had them mess with my MJ but they have wrecked havoc on my venus flytraps.
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creeper's out of the closet
- Thread starter Creeperpark
- Start date
Those sticky traps are yellow to fool the bugs into thinking its a dead leaf. The bug sticks to the trap looking for shelter or a place to mate. The other purpose for sticky traps is to look at them very closely, from time to time. When you check them regularly, you can see the incoming new adults arrival into the grow and stop them sooner. I fucked up because I didn't look or check the yellow strips enough and got thrips. WATCH your yellow stickies closely with your eyes!!!!!
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feed change
feed change
I changed my feed to, 2ml micro, 1/2ml grow, 3ml bloom per gal, or (4L) of rain water. The rain water has 2 ml of cal-mag. Since I had to drop the ammonium nitrogen from my feed, the pH went up, so I am adding acid (pH down) at 15 drops to 4 gallons of rain water with cal mag. to bring the pH to 5.9 to 6.1 range. Around 400 ppm or .8 EC
feed change
I changed my feed to, 2ml micro, 1/2ml grow, 3ml bloom per gal, or (4L) of rain water. The rain water has 2 ml of cal-mag. Since I had to drop the ammonium nitrogen from my feed, the pH went up, so I am adding acid (pH down) at 15 drops to 4 gallons of rain water with cal mag. to bring the pH to 5.9 to 6.1 range. Around 400 ppm or .8 EC
Thanks Spaventa, however I think I caught them soon enough. I will spray again in 2 more days. I will make a note about Thrips Protection spray. Thank you again you are so helpful as always.
green shots
green shots
green shots
JustSumTomatoes
Indicas make dreams happen
more green shots
more green shots
more green shots
JustSumTomatoes
Indicas make dreams happen
myth
myth
I don't know about any other nutrients. I only know about these bottles I use. I can't buy that stuff like everyone else, so I'm using these bottles after expiring in 2004 or 2007. Not sure which # is the date. I remember buying them years ago! Still works like a charm. Do they go bad? Not these, so far anyway. BWT these are my FIRST & LAST bottles i'll ever be using.
myth
I don't know about any other nutrients. I only know about these bottles I use. I can't buy that stuff like everyone else, so I'm using these bottles after expiring in 2004 or 2007. Not sure which # is the date. I remember buying them years ago! Still works like a charm. Do they go bad? Not these, so far anyway. BWT these are my FIRST & LAST bottles i'll ever be using.
Feeding every two days now about 2&1/2 to 3 Litre. My finial nutrient mixture to take me out of the grow, will be only 2 mls micro, and 3 mls Bloom per gal. or 4L of rain water with cal-mag. The meter readings are, ppm 271 or .6 EC and thats counting the cal-mag at 150 ppm. So, I'm only running on about 121 ppm of nutrient to my mix. I'm adding 15 to 20 drops of pH down to 4 gallons of the mix.
flowers
flowers
flowers
something boring but important
something boring but important
Basics of This Super Easy Grow
Using unpolluted water, organic negative charge, a balanced low dose synthetic nutrient. I’m able to maximize myCEC! What is CEC?
Cation exchange capacity, or CEC, is a rating of how well soil or other types of grow media can hold plant nutrients. The plant nutrients are measured as cations, and examples of cations include potassium, calcium, and other positively charged ions.
Knowing the CEC of your soil or grow medium is important for several reasons, but the primary one is for fertilization. Higher CECs mean that fertilization needs to occur much less frequently, or you risk over fertilizing plants. Soil with a low cation exchange capacity is generally poor in nutrients.
something boring but important
Basics of This Super Easy Grow
Using unpolluted water, organic negative charge, a balanced low dose synthetic nutrient. I’m able to maximize myCEC! What is CEC?
Cation exchange capacity, or CEC, is a rating of how well soil or other types of grow media can hold plant nutrients. The plant nutrients are measured as cations, and examples of cations include potassium, calcium, and other positively charged ions.
Knowing the CEC of your soil or grow medium is important for several reasons, but the primary one is for fertilization. Higher CECs mean that fertilization needs to occur much less frequently, or you risk over fertilizing plants. Soil with a low cation exchange capacity is generally poor in nutrients.
Soil varies considerably not only in its mineral makeup, but in its ability to store nutrients. This ability is called its cation exchange capacity, often abbreviated as CEC. It sounds complicated, but it’s really nothing more than the soil’s ability to store positively charged ions of plant nutrients.
A “cation” is a positively charged ion of a particular mineral. Negatively charged ions are called anions. The most commonly needed cations within soil (or other growing mediums) are calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, potassium, hydrogen, sodium, and ammonium.
A “cation” is a positively charged ion of a particular mineral. Negatively charged ions are called anions. The most commonly needed cations within soil (or other growing mediums) are calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, potassium, hydrogen, sodium, and ammonium.
Soil is able to hold cations because it generally has a negative charge. The higher that negative charge, the more nutrients the soil can hold (the greater the negative charge, and the stronger the attraction to positively charged ions/cations).
The more nutrients soil can hold, the healthier plants growing in that soil will be (if all other things are equal, of course). However, different soil types have different cation exchange capacities. Check out this Video.
Utube video AGPR201 10 03 Cation Exchange Graphic
The more nutrients soil can hold, the healthier plants growing in that soil will be (if all other things are equal, of course). However, different soil types have different cation exchange capacities. Check out this Video.
Utube video AGPR201 10 03 Cation Exchange Graphic
Organic matter can have a 4 to 50 times higher CEC per given weight than clay and other media. The source of negative charge in organic matter is different from that of clay minerals; the dissociation (separation into smaller units) of organic acids causes a net negative charge in soil organic matter, and again this negative charge is balanced by cations in the soil.
Because organic acid dissociation depends on the soil pH, the CEC associated with soil organic matter is called pH-dependent CEC. This means that the actual CEC of the soil will depend on the pH of the soil. Given the same amount and type of organic matter, a neutral soil (pH ~7) will have a higher CEC than a soil with e.g. pH 5, or in other words, the CEC of a soil with pH-dependent charge will increase with an increase in pH.
Because organic acid dissociation depends on the soil pH, the CEC associated with soil organic matter is called pH-dependent CEC. This means that the actual CEC of the soil will depend on the pH of the soil. Given the same amount and type of organic matter, a neutral soil (pH ~7) will have a higher CEC than a soil with e.g. pH 5, or in other words, the CEC of a soil with pH-dependent charge will increase with an increase in pH.
If you don't mind,
If you don't mind,
Please go to Wikipedia and look up "Cation-exchange capacity". Look at the chart on the bottom right and check out the numbers. Soil humus is a whopping 400 CEC! That's explains why the organic plug I transplant into the peat has a hydro effect grow pattern that explodes into lush growth with just a little nutrients. I think it will work with coco coir instead of peat too, but I haven't the time left to try it. Maybe someone else would try it with coco coir. I know nothing about coco coir. I would love to learn about coco, but no time left.
If you don't mind,
Please go to Wikipedia and look up "Cation-exchange capacity". Look at the chart on the bottom right and check out the numbers. Soil humus is a whopping 400 CEC! That's explains why the organic plug I transplant into the peat has a hydro effect grow pattern that explodes into lush growth with just a little nutrients. I think it will work with coco coir instead of peat too, but I haven't the time left to try it. Maybe someone else would try it with coco coir. I know nothing about coco coir. I would love to learn about coco, but no time left.
Let me explain how I feed my plants with every watering. First I add 2 mi of cal-mag to 1 gallon of rain water. Then I add 2 ml of micro and 3 ml of bloom to the gallon of rain water with cal mag. Check the pH and add a few drops of pH down. With a pH of 6.1, I take 1/2 a litre of feed and put in the bottom of the plant tray and set the plant in the tray. It sucks up the feed quickly. Then I charge the top of the pot with 250 ml of plain rain with cal mag. Wait a few min. and then add 1/2 litre of feed to the top and wait about 20 min. Then, I add a whole litre of feed to the top and wait 20 min. Then water using last litre with feed until I get a little runoff. Pick up the pot, and heavy it is. I'll wait 2 or 3 days picking up the pot until it gets light again and repeat. Sooo Easy!!!
That's it!
That's it!
I stop feed and only give pure rain water to the plants the last 3 weeks of flowering. That's it! There's nothing else to say. Easy grow! I'll will post photos
.
That's it!
I stop feed and only give pure rain water to the plants the last 3 weeks of flowering. That's it! There's nothing else to say. Easy grow! I'll will post photos
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photos
photos
photos
