Cheap Nutrient Line for Commercial and Home Grows?

[Ca++]

Likely so. Epsom is said to have little effect on pH, but calcium is the usual reason for water alkalinity. Both carbonate the chloride form being alkaline, and calnit being neutral at around 7. Calnit is both a strong base and strong acid, hence the neutral pH, but more importantly, this is quite dominating. Buffering, if you like.

 

[marwachine]

Ah yes, grandma's myth - remove the "suckers". Doesn't make botanical sense to remove the very unit that produces the end result you're after whether that be fruit or flower.

You should figure out what works best for you and ignore all the advice. All you need to know in this biz is what makes a plant tick. Research soil chemistry and plant nutrition, then you'll empower yourself to make the right decisions for your particular garden and style.

It's all about the roots - https://mycotopia.net/HTFaq/1321.htm

Good luck,
UB

Thanks for the info. Why use spray for root pruning though? Aren't these the same with using fabric pots?

I also want to ask about bang for you buck methods for feeding the soil as I live in a 3rd world country. There isn't much available products for agriculture around here.

Chat soon,
Mar

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

Thanks for the info. Why use spray for root pruning though? Aren't these the same with using fabric pots?

I also want to ask about bang for you buck methods for feeding the soil as I live in a 3rd world country. There isn't much available products for agriculture around here.

Chat soon,
Mar

It's a paint that's sprayed on a conventional pot. Roots contact the sides/bottom, are terminated which induces lateral root branching.

 

[marwachine]

It's a paint that's sprayed on a conventional pot. Roots contact the sides/bottom, are terminated which induces lateral root branching.

Yes I get that but unfortunately that product isn't available in my country. Is it any better than using fabric pots?

Also, what factors do I have to take into consideration when deciding if I should plant in pots or put them directly in the ground?

 

[Tomatoesonly]

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

Yes I get that but unfortunately that product isn't available in my country. Is it any better than using fabric pots?

Also, what factors do I have to take into consideration when deciding if I should plant in pots or put them directly in the ground?

Fabric pots that are designed for root pruning are fine, just more maintenance regarding watering/feeding.

If your native soil is decent, then you'll have an unrestricted root system which means the ability to uptake more nutrients and water. Have you done a soil analysis using a certified lab? Got to know where you are before you plan on where you're going with soil amendments, adjuncts, etc.

UB

 

[marwachine]

Fabric pots that are designed for root pruning are fine, just more maintenance regarding watering/feeding.

If your native soil is decent, then you'll have an unrestricted root system which means the ability to uptake more nutrients and water. Have you done a soil analysis using a certified lab? Got to know where you are before you plan on where you're going with soil amendments, adjuncts, etc.

UB

The soil analysis is a difficult one to do since I'm not in a developed country. We have a couple of fruits growing in our backyard though. We have avocados, peppers, papayas, coconuts, bananas, mangoes, etc. as we live in the tropics. They seem to grow fine without needing much. I just think that the soil here holds more water.

Curious if I supplement osmocote with the trees, will it lead to a better produce? Or should I just let them grow as is?

 

[Tomatoesonly]

For God sakes, people are trying to talk about nutrient lines and ratios and of course, @marwachine comes in wanting to talk about soil in the jungle for 50 posts with @Old Uncle Ben Why don't you take it to private messaging and quit messing this thread up?????????????????????????????????????????

 

[marwachine]

For God sakes, people are trying to talk about nutrient lines and ratios and of course, @marwachine comes in wanting to talk about soil in the jungle for 50 posts with @Old Uncle Ben Why don't you take it to private messaging and quit messing this thread up?????????????????????????????????????????

My bad. I'm new to the site. I'm actually curious about nutrients and fertilizers until I saw his posts about osmocote and other 1 part feeds. The simplicity is quite nice especially if you're jumping from one task to another.

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

For God sakes, people are trying to talk about nutrient lines and ratios and of course, @marwachine comes in wanting to talk about soil in the jungle for 50 posts with @Old Uncle Ben Why don't you take it to private messaging and quit messing this thread up?????????????????????????????????????????

Cause it's all about plant nutrition. There is a cross of experiences, a knowledge base that transfers to all plant material. If you have years of experience growing say....tomatoes or peppers, maybe a peach tree, then you can grow this weed. Of course there are those that will fuck that up too because they follow the bro "science" in forums, with many of the posts not even making sense and/or just plain confusing to the newb. Add this, add that, don't add this....blah blah blah.

Now, off to help the poor chap out....

Uncle Ben

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

The soil analysis is a difficult one to do since I'm not in a developed country. We have a couple of fruits growing in our backyard though. We have avocados, peppers, papayas, coconuts, bananas, mangoes, etc. as we live in the tropics. They seem to grow fine without needing much. I just think that the soil here holds more water.

Curious if I supplement osmocote with the trees, will it lead to a better produce? Or should I just let them grow as is?

Being a tropical fruit tree grower myself in a large greenhouse, yes you can grow some fine cannabis in your soil. I would recommend feeding your cannabis (or new fruit tree starts) with osmocote. Certainly not old established trees as the roots might be out 20 meters or so from the drip line and it would cost way too much.

Good luck,
UB

 

[Cerathule]

My nutrient recipe for flowering (in MG/l). In peat/vermiculite mix. What do you guys think. Any opinions on what I could change?

Most of the ratios look ok, except I would give more B and less Mn. But numbers are very high (except for N) that makes me question on your feeding frequency?

 

[Cerathule]

Never had a problem with leaf chlorosis.

Dude, your pic here

I mixed in a small handful in the top inch of a 2.5 gal. pot when I upcanned from the germ pot. I re-vegged a Cannacopia Lapis Mtn. indica and it carried it thru with some tweeks of Dyna-Gro, another VERY complete, one part food that's good for soil and water culture. That span was about 7 months from the time that I sowed the seed to the time I second harvested the plant.

Folks make this feeding stuff difficult when it doesn't happen to be. All you have to do is shy away from the hype that goes with the cannabis specific industry and use commercial ag drills. IOW, learn what makes a plant tick, plant nutrition.

Your main goal is to develop and maintain/retain plenty of root and foliar mass until harvest. The rest will follow - that's just what plants do.

Uncle Ben

View attachment 18862881

shows alot of chlorosis. And also clawing, the plant is in a state of nutrient lockout. Up to the point where the plant cannot grow properly that's why you only see leaves but no buds. And the dots also shouldn't be there.

Really that's no "autumn colors" or senescence but proof you can't grow proper weed.

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

For God sakes, people are trying to talk about nutrient lines and ratios and of course,

What I see here beginning with post #1 is the promotion of a lot of hooey, recommendations of snake oils and hype that only serves to "look good" to the community with this and that. I've been growing since 1968, posted to the first cannabis forums dating back to the early 90's and they're all the same - lots of gullible newbies hooked on "cannabis specific" foods pushed by a con type market.

You want to learn to grow great weed? Get off cannabis forums and seek out reputable info such as these sources. http://oaktrust.library.tamu.edu/bitstream/handle/1969.1/87827/pdf_934.pdf

Linda Chalker-Scott | Washington State University

Horticultural Myths Looking for the newest myth-information? Check out our blog The Garden Professors. You’ll find science-based information from four horticultural professors from around the country. Fertilizers The Myth of Beneficial Bone Meal (pdf) The Myth of Vitamin Shots (pdf) The Myth of...

puyallup.wsu.edu

What is organic fertilizer? - Garden Myths

Organic fertilizer. What is the real difference between organic and synthetic fertilizer? Why is organic fertilizer better for your plants?

www.gardenmyths.com

I'll say it again, the best food (one part, cheap and high performance aka "strong", for growing cannabis sans all the fulvic acid and such hype additives), is Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro. 9-3-6 will support all phases of growing, the most important being the production and maintenance of a good and healthy foliage and root mass. Contrary to popular belief Bloom Foods only pack the pockets of those selling them. They do not promote "more flowers". That's the job of healthy leaves up to harvest.

Male Sensi Hindu Kush destroyed.

Good luck,
Uncle Ben

 

[WingzHauser]

I wouldn't call that a high ratio an no2:nh4 2:1
I'm going to bet most people on a thread like this, are hydro growers. These ratio's are too low for hydro. Where the ammonia isn't so much a source of N, as it is a source of problems.


google says it's a cone plant. That seems highly relevant lol

Everyone had a friend that smoked purpurea. He also huffed gas and sniffed markers.

If they acknowledge that ammonia is a intermediate between Nitrate and glycine, I'd assume there's a follow up study comparing urea to aminos. Can you overdose on aminos? What's the salt index of iron glycinate? Surely you can run aminos in hydro since you guys bleach and burn everything that crawls. The Indians would spray Cannabis with meat concoctions, as animal proteins don't break down to Nitrate as quickly as plant based aminos. Maybe they were on to something.

You guys are splitting hairs.

Having said that if you can't grow incredible weed from DG's Foliage Pro, something's wrong. https://dyna-gro.com/product/foliage-pro/

View attachment 18862943

You soak your roots in copper paint with sulfur that low? I imagine spin-stop works by leaking fats out of the cell walls. You deplete the plant of lipids and spend all your sulfur/thiols on glutathione to handle that the toxic wall of copper.


This is why people hate Hydroponics. There's always some variable not being mentioned. The Indians would feed ghee butter to Cannabis for fats. Must have been important at one time, before hydroponics stripped the earth of its health in order to further fund the man-made chemical institution. The white man has become the expert of growing flavorless tomato and convincing other white men it has flavor. Now we have 35% thc weed that doesn't get you high..

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

Everyone had a friend that smoked purpurea. He also huffed gas and sniffed markers.

If they acknowledge that ammonia is a intermediate between Nitrate and glycine, I'd assume there's a follow up study comparing urea to aminos. Can you overdose on aminos? What's the salt index of iron glycinate? Surely you can run aminos in hydro since you guys bleach and burn everything that crawls. The Indians would spray Cannabis with meat concoctions, as animal proteins don't break down to Nitrate as quickly as plant based aminos. Maybe they were on to something.




You soak your roots in copper paint with sulfur that low? I imagine spin-stop works by leaking fats out of the cell walls. You deplete the plant of lipids and spend all your sulfur/thiols on glutathione to handle that the toxic wall of copper.


This is why people hate Hydroponics. There's always some variable not being mentioned. The Indians would feed ghee butter to Cannabis for fats. Must have been important at one time, before hydroponics stripped the earth of its health in order to further fund the man-made chemical institution. The white man has become the expert of growing flavorless tomato and convincing other white men it has flavor. Now we have 35% thc weed that doesn't get you high..

No, that's not the way it works.

 

[Ca++]

Cheap Nutrient line for commercial and home grows

This thread is Bill's. It's about Jack's and Masterblend. Basic powder premixes, That tend to need calnit and Epsom adding, to form a balanced feed. This is of specific interest to many, and it's a high value thread. Full of mixing volumes and PPM numbers, used by many. It's one of the better resource threads we have.

Jack's have been going for 75 years. Nothing is cheaper, and many say nothing is better. Because if you know what you want, you can have it.

Anyone interested in this salts game, would love to see these 34 pages were all on topic. From sources of ingredients, to recipe tweaks to overcome individual problems. All numerically correct, with supporting photos and descriptions.

Nobody here to read 34 pages about refining their jacks (or mb) blend, wants to hear about much else.

 

[mexweed]

a lot of people don't even run the original setup to form a baseline to then compare something they want to add or change

 

[Terppalooza]

Most of the ratios look ok, except I would give more B and less Mn. But numbers are very high (except for N) that makes me question on your feeding frequency?

What do you find high! I'd love to discuss. I hand water. And feed daily. The nutrient sulution is around 2.2 ec. In ro water. I'm still adjusting my formula, so any help would be appreciated.

 

[marwachine]

Cheap Nutrient line for commercial and home grows

This thread is Bill's. It's about Jack's and Masterblend. Basic powder premixes, That tend to need calnit and Epsom adding, to form a balanced feed. This is of specific interest to many, and it's a high value thread. Full of mixing volumes and PPM numbers, used by many. It's one of the better resource threads we have.

Jack's have been going for 75 years. Nothing is cheaper, and many say nothing is better. Because if you know what you want, you can have it.

Anyone interested in this salts game, would love to see these 34 pages were all on topic. From sources of ingredients, to recipe tweaks to overcome individual problems. All numerically correct, with supporting photos and descriptions.

Nobody here to read 34 pages about refining their jacks (or mb) blend, wants to hear about much else.

Have you tried masterblend? I have the tomato formula and thinking about doing 2-2-1 for my first run. What are your suggestions?