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By far and without a doubt, the least expensive conventional, synthetic fertilizers

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ak-51

I don't care how blue my concrete basement floor gets. If it starts getting tracked all the way upstairs and onto carpet then I might have an issue. I think that's improbable though.

I haven't noticed the blue dye staining any of my hydro equipment. Is anybody else getting blue stains on their reservoirs or equipment?
 
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ak-51

The Cal-Nit basically dissolved all by itself. I pre-mix in a nalgene bottle that I shake up until everything is dissolved, but I pour stuff into the nalgene over my res so anything that doesn't make it into the bottle falls into the res anyway. Today a bunch of cal-nit bounced into the res and it was gone in about a minute. To be fair there is a pump in there stirring stuff around, but still.
 
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ak-51

I am looking for a couple of airtight containers to store both nutrients in. I think a 3 or 4 gallon container would hold the whole 25lb bag. Anybody have any recommendations?
 

Arminius

"I'm not a pezzamist, I am an optometrist"
Veteran
I just picked up 3G buckets with lids from the hardware store, but will be switching to vital vaults.
 

SecondAttempt

Active member
5 gallon buckets from Home de Pot with matching lids (they have a gasket to seal it... the gasket is key) They also make great containers for deivering meds... seal in the stank.
 
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ak-51

I think I'm going to use 5 gallon buckets with the vittles vault style lids for the bulk and then have smaller ~quart containers like snapware or oxo for measuring out of, and just refill those from the buckets as necessary so I don't have to open the buckets all the time. I might put some kind of desiccant in the buckets too to absorb any errant moisture.

I love paying 2 cents per gallon for nutrients. I'm thinking of shifting away from coco so that I can reduce my medium overhead. Shifting to a system that uses more liquid should save me money since even double or tripling my nutrient usage won't make that much difference. I think coco is my highest overhead right now after electricity.
 

L3G4CY

New member
Been using Jack's Pro + CalN and KSiO (Agsil) with straight tap water around 140ppm for about a year now without any problems.

Good stuff!
 

woolybear

Well-known member
Veteran
i'm still rocking jacks. my 1 lb bag lasted me 4+ years. price has gone up a tad.

edit: and now there is a 4 lb minimum. so unless i start running a lot more plants, that 4 lbs should last me at least ten years.
 

BillFarthing

Active member
Veteran
Major shout out to Masterblend 4-18-38. Master Blend is a 3-part bloom nutrient I picked up from Morgan County Seeds for cheap.

There is a guy that does commercial veggies that uses it on Youtube. He was the reason I picked it up. I am very happy with this nutrient for large-scale application.
 

themills

New member
Still insanely expensive VS mixing your own.. look up a local CPS (Crop Production Services) and call it a day.

I have never found a formulation with sufficient potassium to maximize yields... Jacks is crazy low. Some people are just destined to grow hay I Guess?
 

XavierFernandez

New member
Still insanely expensive VS mixing your own.. look up a local CPS (Crop Production Services) and call it a day.

I have never found a formulation with sufficient potassium to maximize yields... Jacks is crazy low. Some people are just destined to grow hay I Guess?

5-12-26 N-P-K

It's anything but 'crazy low'. It is high enough that adding silica via Potassium silicate products can cause lockout and competition between other elements.

Made the switch recently from "1-part lucas" maxibloom at 7g/gal to Jacks+Calnit @ EC 1.2 and so far, at 3 weeks in flower, they look as healthy as ever. I may even up it to 1.5EC slowly, while maintaining the 1:.67 ratio of Jacks:Calnit and see how they take it. I look forward to being able to taper off the Nitrogen late in flower.

The only difference when compared to the Maxibloom is I have more control over exactly what the plants get and, of course, the co$t.

Thanks for all the great information in this thread guys!:huggg:
 

CHEFfy

Member
T... 1-.67 at in ec of about 1.2 is what you want... Your water will dictat how much you will need but that is the ratio.
 

jpdnkstr

Member
Thanks everyone for the great info! I've been growing excellent meds for years using GH products(I've run everything except Duo). I am going to order some Jacks soon, and can't wait to try it out. Does anyone feel there is any benefit to adding Jack's MOST to the mix, or does the 5-12-26 have enough?
 

jump /injack

Member
Veteran
Been using Jacks for a couple of years now and am pleased with the results. I've noticed on their site they have come out with a bloom booster, any one used it?

http://www.jrpeters.com/Products/Jack-s-Classic/Blossom-Booster.html

"In Blossom Booster 10-30-20, the first number is for Nitrogen. This product contains 10% Nitrogen. The second number is for Phosphate. This product contains 30% Phosphorus as P2O5. The third number is for Potash. This product contains 20% Potassium as K2O. These three elements: Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium are the major elements in any plant food.

Proven 1:3:2 ratio stimulates the plant to set more flowers while holding color brighter and longer than any other home blooming formula.
Can be used on a variety of plant material to encourage and enhance blooming.
Promotes excellent root growth when used as a transplant solution.
Fully chelated trace elements.

Manganese, Iron, Copper, Boron, Zinc and Molybdenum are the trace or micronutrients. All Jack's Classic® products contain these trace elements. Although they are present in small amounts, they are just as important as the major and minor elements in plant growth..

Feeds through the roots and leaves.
The guaranteed analysis on each package of fertilizer tells you how much is in each product. Jack's Classic products contain these elements in a highly soluble form, which means they will go completely into solution in water. When applied to your plants, they will be absorbed and utilized to make your plants grow to their fullest potential."


Fertilizer Analysis

10-30-20
 
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