My coil screws in to the welded couplings through the shell wall.
They are self draining, while one dropped in from the top are not.
-
Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
-
Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!
Building an IC69 Heat Exchanger
- Thread starter Hydrosun
- Start date
My coil screws in to the welded couplings through the shell wall.
They are self draining, while one dropped in from the top are not.
Yeah, we've made some of those to hold the storage tank. Careful with the polyurethane foam install. If you do it all at once, it can split your outer barrel.
If you are using a coil to cool your solvent between the tank and the column, you should be able to clear 100% of the contents by closing the solvent tank valve and leaving the injection ball valve open while pulling the system into vacuum.
Also using ball valves on both sides of the IC69 allows it to hold solvent under pressure...... However I have no idea what would happen if a 50' coil of solvent were allowed to pressurize going from -50 to 70.... Might burst the SS????
I believe 1/4" coil would work for this application, but would think 3/8" coil would be much better. If head pressure became an issue (low because of added capacity of the coil), you could utilize the hot vapor pressure assist and force all the super cooled solvent through your columns.
GratefulOne
Member
GW keeps talking about the viscosity of the butane at super low temps. Others keep talking about slow recovery times with 1/4" lines.
Sounds like 3/8" lines for sure and maybe 1/2" are needed.
Sounds like 3/8" lines for sure and maybe 1/2" are needed.
If you are using a coil to cool your solvent between the tank and the column, you should be able to clear 100% of the contents by closing the solvent tank valve and leaving the injection ball valve open while pulling the system into vacuum.
Also using ball valves on both sides of the IC69 allows it to hold solvent under pressure...... However I have no idea what would happen if a 50' coil of solvent were allowed to pressurize going from -50 to 70.... Might burst the SS????
I believe 1/4" coil would work for this application, but would think 3/8" coil would be much better. If head pressure became an issue (low because of added capacity of the coil), you could utilize the hot vapor pressure assist and force all the super cooled solvent through your columns.
I think we are talking about a coil between the recovery machine and the recovery tank, such as a tr21, you should be able to just cool your tank itself. I believe the problem is with the tr21 getting so hot you'd need a coil between that and the recovery tank.
Is anyone able to drain their after coolers with just the recovery pump and not with gravity assistance?
For my shut down procedures, Ive been heating my coil to above freezing by swapping the collection spool res water with the after cooler res to ensure its all gasified, then running the recovery pump isolated/valved off from the extractor to try and empty my coil, but it has not worked out.
Gravity helpful or a requirement?
We are now talking about one on the injection side as well, which in theory will work fine, and may be more efficient than cooling the entire solvent / recovery tank.
These are on the discharge side of the pump, so not recoverable without additional plumbing. Self draining keeps them full of gas, and not liquid.
You can heat the non self draining and recover them with proper plumbing as well. Just more work.
We are now talking about one on the injection side as well, which in theory will work fine, and may be more efficient than cooling the entire solvent / recovery tank.
Yes, we are talking about a reverse flow heat exchanger at the injection port, using liquid N2 and on the recovery and storage side, just cooling pump exhaust back down to around 30F or so to speed up the process.
Hee, hee, hee, the reverse flow exchanger is in route, and due anyday! We are currently using a three coil heat exchanger full of alcohol/water, to cool the exhaust.
Stainless TR21?
Stainless TR21?
Does anyone know if this is the modified CPS TR21 pump with stainless internals? I cannot seem to find any mention of it on the mfgr site (CPS) only on Johnstone's. It does appear to be separate listing from normal TR21, and mentions that it is spark proof, while utilizing 2/3 HP Brushless motor.
To order via Johnstone they show a 7day lead time from mfgr, only costing me a little under $800.
CPS TRS21 H93-187
Stainless TR21?
Does anyone know if this is the modified CPS TR21 pump with stainless internals? I cannot seem to find any mention of it on the mfgr site (CPS) only on Johnstone's. It does appear to be separate listing from normal TR21, and mentions that it is spark proof, while utilizing 2/3 HP Brushless motor.
To order via Johnstone they show a 7day lead time from mfgr, only costing me a little under $800.
CPS TRS21 H93-187
Jingle bells, jingle bells Santa got lost along the waaaay, but oh what fun we will have with this counter flow heat exchanger later yet todaaaaay, or soon anyway.
It finally arrived and as soon as I change out the brass fittings, and find compression fittings to fit the metric size tube, or TIG weld on connectors, we'uns will be testing out mah theory about simply chilling butane before injection and keeping the butane in the tank at a more manageable temperature.
I ordered two, but got the last one and they refunded my money rather than back order, when I turned down a copper substitute.
PS: http://www.learntobrew.com/counter-flow-stainless-steel-wort-chiller/
Attachments
Last edited:
Chonkski
Member
Upward and onward! Thank you again for for being so good at sharing GW.
I just drop my heat exchanger into my old electric soup cooker that I used to use for my mkIII. The water is usually around 150°f and that will send just about everything that was left back into the tank.
DROOOOLLLLLLLLLL I need to get a towel now.....
montroller
Member
Where did you find that thing graywolf? Looks like fun.
not sure if this has been posted somewhere else but this place seems to be the cheapest for the coils and they have a really good selection.
http://www.nybrewsupply.com/beer-home-brewing-equipment/wort-chillers.html
I also found this nice little tutorial on building your own water jacket for these things. It is surprisingly easy to do and could easily be adapted for co2 of nitrogen.
http://hbd.org/jdbrown/chiller.htm
not sure if this has been posted somewhere else but this place seems to be the cheapest for the coils and they have a really good selection.
http://www.nybrewsupply.com/beer-home-brewing-equipment/wort-chillers.html
I also found this nice little tutorial on building your own water jacket for these things. It is surprisingly easy to do and could easily be adapted for co2 of nitrogen.
http://hbd.org/jdbrown/chiller.htm
Last edited:
When operating without self draining capabilities, liquid that accumulates in the bottom of the coil must be lifted by the pump to get out of the coil. If you've ever used an out of position Graham condenser, you will have noted that they "putt" under those circumstances.
The liquid plugs the line until pressure builds up enough to propel a slug of liquid out of the coil, but once relieved, it quickly plugs again, until it too is propelled.
It makes a putting action and typically in situations where vertical installation isn't possible, a less compact Liebig design or similar condenser is used.
Duh....
http://www.learntobrew.com/counter-flow-stainless-steel-wort-chiller/
Thanks, I edited and posted it above too:
montroller
Member
Hmm it really doesn't look too difficult to make a water jacket on a 50' coil.
The quick shopping list I put together is only ~160 minus a couple of fittings.
I don't really understand how to connect the nitrogen tank. Would you need to make a complete loop or just fill it once then seal it off and vent it when you are done?
The quick shopping list I put together is only ~160 minus a couple of fittings.
I don't really understand how to connect the nitrogen tank. Would you need to make a complete loop or just fill it once then seal it off and vent it when you are done?
You can also use compression Tees and fittings.
Drill the tubing sockets in the end fittings all the way through, so the tubing slides through, instead of resting in a pocket.
An N2 Dewar with a dip tube, can supply vapor or liquid. They have a pressure relief on them around 250 psi, and with the vapor head above the liquid, you can easily eject liquid from the dip tube.
For small amounts of cooling, you can use the vapor, but if you use lots, you will lose your head pressure.
Large amounts of vapor from a Dewar, requires a condenser to turn liquid to gas.
You can also use liquid, which will start out as liquid and turn to a gas on the way out, as it absorbs BTU's from the heat exchanger coil.
We run it through more than one coil, before wasting to atmosphere, which is already 78% nitrogen.
It isn't a greenhouse, ozone depleting, or smog producing gas and was taken from the atmosphere in the first place, using air reduction.
Recovering it would create more pollution than wasting it, and it is on the production end that you should look for carbon footprint.
Drill the tubing sockets in the end fittings all the way through, so the tubing slides through, instead of resting in a pocket.
An N2 Dewar with a dip tube, can supply vapor or liquid. They have a pressure relief on them around 250 psi, and with the vapor head above the liquid, you can easily eject liquid from the dip tube.
For small amounts of cooling, you can use the vapor, but if you use lots, you will lose your head pressure.
Large amounts of vapor from a Dewar, requires a condenser to turn liquid to gas.
You can also use liquid, which will start out as liquid and turn to a gas on the way out, as it absorbs BTU's from the heat exchanger coil.
We run it through more than one coil, before wasting to atmosphere, which is already 78% nitrogen.
It isn't a greenhouse, ozone depleting, or smog producing gas and was taken from the atmosphere in the first place, using air reduction.
Recovering it would create more pollution than wasting it, and it is on the production end that you should look for carbon footprint.
