Broad Mites?

[Shan Diego]

I mixed a gallon. I completely saturated my plants, probably used about 3 times as much as I needed but I did it outside so runoff was not a concern. Here's some pics of the damage on my mother plant as well as my avocados outside. I had been using my runoff water on them, and they were subsequently infested as well. Notice how the sunny side looks great and the shaded side looks afflicted...these broad mites really do hate light!

 

[max_well]

I started seeing some of the tell-tale pistil browning in my flower room which is at day ~20 into 12/12.. thought I was in the clear after repeat treatments of Avid / Forbid in veg! but now ~7 weeks later, having seen the extreme damage these have had in my buddy's room, I did a heavy spray down with the Safers liquid sulfur product at the recommended 4 oz. / gallon... this definitely caused some serious pistil shriveling / dryness to the developing flowers, more than I realized would happen-- probably should have done some test plants before coating the whole room, but I was hoping to be proactive while before a population explosion of mites. I'm hopeful that my flowers will rebound from this. I've got some beneficial mites on order, per the advice and help that GrowTech gained from them (thanks bro)..
One thing of note.. From all the scoping I've done, I haven't seen the speckled eggs that are characteristic of Broad Mites, as pictured by Storm Shadow.. therefore I believe the mites I have could be of the Cyclamen variety, which have smooth eggs and probably a slightly different palette, but are otherwise very similar to broad mites from all the research I've done-- suggested treatments seem to be pretty much the same.


I found this info on broad mites and the use of predatory mites (A. Swirskii type) from a icmag member in Austria named 'floweryfield' in a thread called 'CROP PROTECTION'. Seems to have some first hand experience:


Broad mite

There are some stories about the origin of this animal. Some people claim that the CIA deliberately bred this animal to eridacate the hemp plant. Of course, this allegation is absolute nonsense. Correctly the broad mite is an exotic pest that was brought to Europe by exotic plants. In our region the mite is predominatly a problem for indoor cultivation, but in recent years it has also increasingly been a problem for outdoor crops during hot and humid summers (e.g.:strawberry, gerbera: in this culture you can find a particular aggressive type of the broad mite which shows resistances to all conventional acaracides).

Broad mites cannot be seen with the naked eye. They are only 1/100 inches long. Eggs have bumps or protrusions. They don`t produce webbing like spider mites. They hide in the young shoot tips, why it is difficult to detect them even microscopic. Due to that fact an infestation is usually noticed when susceptible greenhouse-grown crop display damage symptoms. The symptoms include leaf and fruit distortions, shortening of internodes, blistering, shriveling and curling of leaves, and leaf discoloration. The plant also loses vitality , stops growing and the rooting oft he clones doesn`t work anymore. Reproduction does not occur below 13°C nor above 34 degrees. Temperatures of about 25°C and humid conditions are most favorable.

For hemp cultivation any infestation of broad mites should already be detected in the vegetative phase, as such a infestation after switching to a 12/12 lighting phase cannot be fought. In that case growers have no alternative but to dispose of the contaminated plants and clean the grow room thoroughly.
During the vegetation period the broad mite is easily opposable. When an acute infestation is detected, growers shall spray the acaricide agents like mentioned above. Additionally the temperature and humidity shall be reduced. A week after the last application the use of predator mites can begin.


Following predator mites should be used for broad mite infestation:


· A. Swirskii
http://www.allesoverswirskii.nl/
It is a predatory mite, which occurs in North Africa-Israel (mostly in marine environment), and therefore it is used to higher temperatures and humidity. The A. swirskii delivered in bottles is a highly aggressive animal, which searches for pests at a high speed. These qualities make these predatory mite to the appropriate hunter of broad mites, which eradicates reliably the rest of the broad mites that survived spraying. I recommend the dissemination of A. swirskii approximately every 2 weeks for 2 months, then the animal should be eradicated.

 

[Midnight]

Your funny dude...sorry you couldnt keep up with the routine to eliminate these fuckers... I dont have them anymore...havent for quite sometime...and they were everywhere....just because your work ethic and budget didnt allow you to get the job done...doesnt mean we''ll follow in your footsteps... they are easy as fuck to kill with all the chemicals rotated just a few times....

And therein lies the problem, you got product covered with chemicals. Who the hell are you pawning that crap off to? Please let me know so I can warn them!

 

[Dave Coulier]

Storm and Gnome, I applied the Spinosad 5 days before the Forbid. I was still waiting on the forbid at the time.

 

[Grow Tech]

And therein lies the problem, you got product covered with chemicals. Who the hell are you pawning that crap off to? Please let me know so I can warn them!

Chemicals with the appropriate residual ( if any ) in veg
Predators in flower...they can be dealt with

and BTW, I remember one of your pics that now seems to have dissappeared where the was a No Pest Strip visible amongst a pile of other stuff.

If you have anything productive to add please do but at this point you're just coming off like a douche bag troll

 

[the gnome]

Storm and Gnome, I applied the Spinosad 5 days before the Forbid. I was still waiting on the forbid at the time.

thanks dave... did the spino slow em down any?
and what was the brand name of spino, and percentage in the bottle

 

[Dave Coulier]

thanks dave... did the spino slow em down any?
and what was the brand name of spino, and percentage in the bottle

I just looked at the bottle and its .5% Active Ingredient Spinosyn A & D. Its actually Green Light Lawn & Garden Spray w/ Spinosad, but same amount of Active Ingredient as Monterey Spinosad product. I saw plant improvement within 6 days of applying the Spinosad.

 

[Midnight]

Chemicals with the appropriate residual ( if any ) in veg
Predators in flower...they can be dealt with

and BTW, I remember one of your pics that now seems to have dissappeared where the was a No Pest Strip visible amongst a pile of other stuff.

If you have anything productive to add please do but at this point you're just coming off like a douche bag troll

If you read all of my posts in this thread you would see that I nuked the living shit out of my plants. It was a seed run and i was not going to smoke it.

I nuked the living fuck out of my plants and those bastards kept coming. Only thing that worked was throwing it all out and then nuking the room itself for 3 weeks. Fuck those mites, if you're not tossing the stuff and then nuking your room then you are wasting your time. You'll see. Meanwhile, I am bug and pesticide free and on the road again.

 

[Shan Diego]

I'm a little irritated at the boys at SD Hydro. There is a pepper plant just inside their front door that is clearly afflicted with Broad Mites. I've pointed it out to their employees on 3 separate occasions, yet the plant remains. Customers are no doubt brushing up against it and taking these buggars home with them. Be careful if you walk through their front doors... When I was telling the guy at the register, the two guys in line behind me spoke up and told me they shared the exact symptoms and had been wondering about their problems for a while...please help spread the word, tell every grower you know what signs to look for!

 

[Grow Tech]

If you read all of my posts in this thread

Dude...thats the thing. I have read all your posts & you basically haven't added any additional info along the way. If it's your opinion that the only way to deal with Broad Mites is to basically not ( by throwing away your plants) thats cool....but to fucking continue to pop you head up and say the same thing over & over & to "LOL" at those of us that are choosing not to throw our plants away is just straight dick-ish.

I have adquate skills with a hand scope. Years ago I made a living using one to do pest scouting for commercial nurseries. When I say I can not find any on the plants in my flower room that have only had predators as their Rx...I'm not fucking lying. There is no pesticide residual on those plants & I didnt have to throw them away. They are currently 1 week from harvest & I will have something worth smoking.

I'm only kicking myself because I forgot the importance of using my scope regularly. The fact that I now personally choose to use chems to treat these in veg is my approach. We know your approach...you've said it repeatedly.

 

[Midnight]

Just keep telling yourself that if it makes you feel better.

 

[Dave Coulier]

Just keep telling yourself that if it makes you feel better.

Midnight, you've made your own points, and theres no need to continue. I can say for myself, that treatment has turned plants that looked god awful into beautiful looking plants. My treatment methods have worked so far. Im sorry you couldn't achieve results that were satisfactory to you, but your not helping this thread at this point.

Everyone here would like to get back on topic, and thats how to treat your plants and share any results each of us may have. Whether it be positive or negative.

 

[the gnome]

ok, went to town locally and picked up some raid fumigator bombs---> 12.6% pemethrin
strong stuff.
going to bomb every room every 4-5 days for a few weeks.

also I picked something up i hope will work,
its cheap and its on a very low order of toxicity
kills mites and their eggs... Volck oil spray
$6 for a pint bottle and makes quite a bit from that.
when i 1st started growing and had to deal with some mites an old hand recommended it.
its been used for years in the nursing/orchard industry.
we'll see what it does to the broad
avid is on the way.

I read an article from the florida state agriculture division on broads and they said many insecticidal soaps and oils will work on broads with a hi degree of success and low degree of toxicity.
that made me think of Volck oil spray
so thats whats instore for dem broads
till the avid gets here.

i'll let everyone know how the volck oil spray pans out.

and dsome good news for a change!,
the plants i soaked down with spinosad 3 days ago are starting to perk up and actually look good





midnite,
if your solution to the broads is tossing your plants...
then have it ma man... no one is knocking you for it.
but you **keep on** bashing others that choose to make a stand and do battle with these demons adds nothing productive
just let it go.

""The only cure is to toss everything, start over. You'll see""
nurseries don't do that, they treat the problem.

the state of florida and florida state university-FSU agricultural sites disagree with you....
obviously you couldn't deal with the problem,
telling everyone else they are failing seems to be your way of dealing with your own failure.... pretty sad

 

[Dorky]

I'm a little irritated at the boys at SD Hydro. There is a pepper plant just inside their front door that is clearly afflicted with Broad Mites. I've pointed it out to their employees on 3 separate occasions, yet the plant remains. Customers are no doubt brushing up against it and taking these buggars home with them. Be careful if you walk through their front doors... When I was telling the guy at the register, the two guys in line behind me spoke up and told me they shared the exact symptoms and had been wondering about their problems for a while...please help spread the word, tell every grower you know what signs to look for!

which one. I think I need to breed some of these lil fuckers.

 

[KRD]

100 percent mite free now 2 doses of avid all gone. I have used floramite,azatrol,soaps,stinky fish oil,predators nothing works like avid, its like eagle 20 is to pm.

 

[Grow Tech]

100 percent mite free now 2 doses of avid all gone. I have used floramite,azatrol,soaps,stinky fish oil,predators nothing works like avid, its like eagle 20 is to pm.

mmmm Stinky Fish Oil
I'm still looking for Avid close to me ( North County SD)
Anyone with a source please PM me

 

[daheadies]

Are broad mites and russet mites the same??

 

[Dave Coulier]

mmmm Stinky Fish Oil
I'm still looking for Avid close to me ( North County SD)
Anyone with a source please PM me

Ebay is where I would look. You'll find the best deals there.

 

[max_well]

Avid /Agrimek residual

Avid /Agrimek residual

I've been researching the toxicity and concerns with using Avid, and have some confusion. It seems that Avid is only approved for use in ornamentals, however Agrimek, which has the same active compound (Abamectin, which is the same as Avermectin), is approved on a huge range of vegetables up to 1 week before harvest.
Some of this confusion discussed here:
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tompests/msg07132539866.html?10
Anyone have insight here? Seems like there is a real staunch opposition to using this into flower in our growing community, and paranoia about it's lingering presence in our medicine-- never heard too many people give pause before a non-organic burrito about the chance of the tomatoes, lettuce, cilantro, etc having been treated up to a week before harvest...
They are dropping this from planes into our orange juice!
http://www.syngentacropprotection.com/news_releases/news.aspx?id=93696
I'm certainly not suggesting this is a good thing!, just wondering about the pick-and-choosiness of when to be concerned about the health risks associated with this , as I've never hesitated to eat a good looking orange.
I've also read that Abamectin, when in the thin film of sprayed application on a plant leaf, has half life of 4-6 hours ..
( http://pmep.cce.cornell.edu/profiles/extoxnet/24d-captan/abamectin-ext.html )
and in case your curious about No Pest Strips:
http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/toxfaqs/tf.asp?id=596&tid=111

 

[the gnome]

and in case your curious about No Pest Strips:
http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/toxfaqs/tf.asp?id=596&tid=111

hey max
I use NPS a ALOT, they are my favs out of everything I use to battle pests in the garden.
I can't say enough about how easy and effective they are to use. if it just killed eggs too it would be darn near hard to beat.
I posted info from that very site max a few years ago in the stickied NPS thread in the infirmary or in one of my own threads about using them.
it is very safe to use NPS's but I recieved some pretty unreasonable opposition to its use from some of the anti chem pest control gang,
in fact the term "unreasonable" is sugar coating it about 10x over hehe.

here's a snippet from that site
What happens to dichlorvos when it enters the environment?

• Dichlorvos enters the environment during its manufacture and use, from landfills, and from accidental spills during transport and leaks from storage containers.
• It evaporates easily into the air, where it is broken down into less harmful chemicals.
• It will dissolve in water, where microorganisms can break it down.
• It takes about 24–36 hours for half of the chemical to be broken down in water.
• Dichlorvos does not appear to accumulate in plants, fish, or animals.