Nope, they are not
Hemp Russet Mite - Aculops cannabicola
Broad Mites= Tarsononemid mites
-
Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
-
Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!
Broad Mites?
- Thread starter Grow Tech
- Start date
- Status
Nope, they are not
Hemp Russet Mite - Aculops cannabicola
Broad Mites= Tarsononemid mites
daheadies
poppin' outta control
Thank you! do they do the same damage??? What happened to my plants 1 year ago is exactly as photographed in this thread... However, when I went to the local shop and described my problem, they said its russet mites, and that its going around town...
Does russet damage look the same as broad???
Are there any mites on that picture? If so would you please indicate their location? Thanks.
Pine
I think is a picture of the aftermath, look at the stem and the bronze material. If they are like Broad mites in size then it is very very difficult to see them without magnification.
they are all over it, especially on the stem
they are very tiny,
much smaller than broads i believe
and broads are tiny.. 1/150th of an inch
heres a pic of russet mites on the stem
another
Attachments
Sorry it didn't work. Thanks for posting you findings though
Here is what I found for tomato russet mites. Best of luck man, they sound like a real pain but can be dealt with.
http://www.extento.hawaii.edu/kbase/crop/type/a_lycope.htm
MANAGEMENT
Non-Chemical Control
There are a few of predators that feed on the tomato russet mite, but most of them do not seem feasible for a biological control program. Bailey and Keifer (1943) observed that a predatory mite, Seiulus sp., was effective in controlling tomato russet mite on tomatoes grown in home gardens. However, this predatory mite was not effective as a commercial biological control agent.
There are other predatory mites which feed on tomato russet mite. Typhlodromus occidentalis (Nesbitt), Pronematus ubiquitis (McGregor), and Lasioseius sp. were predatory mites noted by Rice (1961). The Zambia Department of Agriculture (1977) implied that the predatory mite, Phytoseiulus persimilis (Athias-Henriot), may have controlled tomato russet mite. De Moraes and Lima (1983) observed that Euseius concordis (Chant) will feed on tomato russet mite. They indicated that its effectiveness as a predator of the tomato russet mite would be limited by the presence of Tetranychus evansi (Baker and Pritchard). The problem is with the webbing of T. evansi. It hinders the activity of E. concordis. Another problem is the presence of tomato russet mite with T. evansi for most of the year.
There seems to be some potential for the use of Homeopronematus anconai (Baker) as a biological control agent. (Perring and Farrar, 1986). Studies indicate that this predator is effective in controlling tomato russet mite in the laboratory.
Basic crop sanitation helps in the control of the tomato russet mite (Kay, 1986). Weed hosts should be eliminated within and around the crop. Crop residues should also be destroyed. Keeping the area around the crop free of tomato russet mite hosts helps to reduce the sources of infestation.
Chemical Control
The crop should be monitored for any plant symptoms indicative of the presence of the tomato russet mite. When tomato russet mites are found, control measures should be taken early so that serious damage to the crop does not occur. Also, good pesticide spraying technique is important for complete coverage of all parts of the plant. The lower part of the stem and the undersides of the leaves should not be forgotten.
Sulfur is usually recommended for the control of mites. However, in northern Queensland, a study by Kay and Shepherd (1988) found sulfur to be ineffective. Their 7 trial study was conducted from 1982 to 1985 on tomatoes. They found that the most effective acaricides against an established infestation of tomato russet mite were dicofol (Kelthane), cyhexatin (Plictran), azocyclotin (Peropal), sulprofos (Bolstar), and monocrotophos (Azodrin). Fenbutatin oxide (Vendex) was moderately effective. Sulfur, demeten-S-methyl (Metasytox-R), dimethoate, endosulfan, methamidophos (Monitor), and propargite (Omite) were ineffective.
Kay and Shepherd (1988) also found that dicofol and cyhexatin were the most effective treatments to prevent a damaging infestation from developing. Sulprofos and monocrotophos were also effective. Sulfur was ineffective. Three-weekly or monthly applications were found to be insufficient. A weekly or fortnightly application schedule was necessary for prevention.
Royalty and Perring (1987) evaluated five acaricides on tomato russet mite and a tydeid mite predator, Homeopronematus anconai. For tomato russet mite, avermectin B1 (Avid, Agrimer) was the most toxic, followed by dicofol, cyhexatin, sulfur, and thuringiensin. For H. anconai, dicofol was the most toxic followed by avermectin B1, sulfur, cyhexatin, and thuringienson. According to their study, selective doses of Avermectin B1 could provide good control of tomato russet mite while conserving a predator of the tomato russet mite, H. anconai.
-----
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r783400111.html
MANAGEMENT
Monitor and treat for these mites if damage is occurring.
Organically Acceptable Methods
Mined sulfur dust or sprays are acceptable on organically certified produce.
Monitoring and Treatment Decisions
Look for bronzing on lower leaves and stems, then check damaged leaves and the green leaves immediately above them for mites. Damage is typically first observed when green fruit reaches 1 inch (5 cm); rarely is it first observed after more than 25% of the fruit are ripe. Determine the extent of each infested area in the field by examining leaves and stems for bronzing, and mark the boundaries of the infested areas. Check these areas again in 2 or 3 days to see if they are increasing in size. Immediate treatment is necessary when damage symptoms begin to spread.
----
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=15461
Well, the dreaded microscopic insect has reared its ugly little head again in the San Francisco Bay Area, and it seems to be running rampant. Signs of infestation are yellowing, browning, wilting and eventual death of the plant. All from something you can't see!
Although Holly suggested sulfur to control the mite, I've found that you may want to take faster action. A product with a miticide in it is the ticket. Organically speaking, several insectides help with mites. The one I like is called Azatrol and it's available at Mt. Feed & Farm in Ben Lomond or at some hydroponic stores. Call around to find out what sort of pesticides your local nurseries may have that control mites.
http://www.extento.hawaii.edu/kbase/crop/type/a_lycope.htm
MANAGEMENT
Non-Chemical Control
There are a few of predators that feed on the tomato russet mite, but most of them do not seem feasible for a biological control program. Bailey and Keifer (1943) observed that a predatory mite, Seiulus sp., was effective in controlling tomato russet mite on tomatoes grown in home gardens. However, this predatory mite was not effective as a commercial biological control agent.
There are other predatory mites which feed on tomato russet mite. Typhlodromus occidentalis (Nesbitt), Pronematus ubiquitis (McGregor), and Lasioseius sp. were predatory mites noted by Rice (1961). The Zambia Department of Agriculture (1977) implied that the predatory mite, Phytoseiulus persimilis (Athias-Henriot), may have controlled tomato russet mite. De Moraes and Lima (1983) observed that Euseius concordis (Chant) will feed on tomato russet mite. They indicated that its effectiveness as a predator of the tomato russet mite would be limited by the presence of Tetranychus evansi (Baker and Pritchard). The problem is with the webbing of T. evansi. It hinders the activity of E. concordis. Another problem is the presence of tomato russet mite with T. evansi for most of the year.
There seems to be some potential for the use of Homeopronematus anconai (Baker) as a biological control agent. (Perring and Farrar, 1986). Studies indicate that this predator is effective in controlling tomato russet mite in the laboratory.
Basic crop sanitation helps in the control of the tomato russet mite (Kay, 1986). Weed hosts should be eliminated within and around the crop. Crop residues should also be destroyed. Keeping the area around the crop free of tomato russet mite hosts helps to reduce the sources of infestation.
Chemical Control
The crop should be monitored for any plant symptoms indicative of the presence of the tomato russet mite. When tomato russet mites are found, control measures should be taken early so that serious damage to the crop does not occur. Also, good pesticide spraying technique is important for complete coverage of all parts of the plant. The lower part of the stem and the undersides of the leaves should not be forgotten.
Sulfur is usually recommended for the control of mites. However, in northern Queensland, a study by Kay and Shepherd (1988) found sulfur to be ineffective. Their 7 trial study was conducted from 1982 to 1985 on tomatoes. They found that the most effective acaricides against an established infestation of tomato russet mite were dicofol (Kelthane), cyhexatin (Plictran), azocyclotin (Peropal), sulprofos (Bolstar), and monocrotophos (Azodrin). Fenbutatin oxide (Vendex) was moderately effective. Sulfur, demeten-S-methyl (Metasytox-R), dimethoate, endosulfan, methamidophos (Monitor), and propargite (Omite) were ineffective.
Kay and Shepherd (1988) also found that dicofol and cyhexatin were the most effective treatments to prevent a damaging infestation from developing. Sulprofos and monocrotophos were also effective. Sulfur was ineffective. Three-weekly or monthly applications were found to be insufficient. A weekly or fortnightly application schedule was necessary for prevention.
Royalty and Perring (1987) evaluated five acaricides on tomato russet mite and a tydeid mite predator, Homeopronematus anconai. For tomato russet mite, avermectin B1 (Avid, Agrimer) was the most toxic, followed by dicofol, cyhexatin, sulfur, and thuringiensin. For H. anconai, dicofol was the most toxic followed by avermectin B1, sulfur, cyhexatin, and thuringienson. According to their study, selective doses of Avermectin B1 could provide good control of tomato russet mite while conserving a predator of the tomato russet mite, H. anconai.
-----
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r783400111.html
MANAGEMENT
Monitor and treat for these mites if damage is occurring.
Organically Acceptable Methods
Mined sulfur dust or sprays are acceptable on organically certified produce.
Monitoring and Treatment Decisions
Look for bronzing on lower leaves and stems, then check damaged leaves and the green leaves immediately above them for mites. Damage is typically first observed when green fruit reaches 1 inch (5 cm); rarely is it first observed after more than 25% of the fruit are ripe. Determine the extent of each infested area in the field by examining leaves and stems for bronzing, and mark the boundaries of the infested areas. Check these areas again in 2 or 3 days to see if they are increasing in size. Immediate treatment is necessary when damage symptoms begin to spread.
----
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=15461
Well, the dreaded microscopic insect has reared its ugly little head again in the San Francisco Bay Area, and it seems to be running rampant. Signs of infestation are yellowing, browning, wilting and eventual death of the plant. All from something you can't see!
Although Holly suggested sulfur to control the mite, I've found that you may want to take faster action. A product with a miticide in it is the ticket. Organically speaking, several insectides help with mites. The one I like is called Azatrol and it's available at Mt. Feed & Farm in Ben Lomond or at some hydroponic stores. Call around to find out what sort of pesticides your local nurseries may have that control mites.
mark my words, the Broad Mite is going to be the next BIG problem in the cannabis community. It seems as if root aphids were unheard of until 3 years ago, and now they plague our community. The Broad Mite is today what the root aphids were 3 years ago...
...and in 3 years from now, it will be a common pest in our scene
...and in 3 years from now, it will be a common pest in our scene
S
Shan Diego
Dank, I think your 3 year estimate is way off...this is problem is ravaging crops today, not tomorrow.
Gnome, I talked to a well known vendor in the bay area recently. I had described the symptoms of this new pest to him and he had some plants that were exhibiting the signs. After spraying them with Forbid, they regained their vigor in a week. He didn't see the bugs (he has poor vision) but it certainly seems he had this plague. With prominent clone vendors reporting from San Diego, LA, and Berkeley all distributing the bugs, I'm pretty sure this is a widespread epidemic as of today.
This is an Old Testament type of problem...those hoards of locust were the enemy back in the day, this year people will be saying 'God, I wish I had spider mites instead of these broad mites...' Please tell every grower you know about them and have them spread the word.
S
Shan Diego
Oh yeah, SD Hydro finally eliminated that infested plant...ah, the power of Yelp! Gotta love it. I'm going to delete my negative review now, mission accomplished.
farmhouse cat
Member
Hey Shan, thats a scary thought! I hope we can keep it under control!
By the way, how are things lookin in the garden? any signs of them coming back?
By the way, how are things lookin in the garden? any signs of them coming back?
I think your right, actually I lost a crop in nov 2010 i had no idea what it was, then it surfaced again in sept 2011.
this stuff damages plants incredible fast once you start to see the symptoms, in 10-14 days if you don't treat them with something effective your crop is toast, even at 8 days your plants will suffer significant damage.
actually I'm surprised at how many growers are coming out in this thread and saying " so this is what my prob has been.
I think the prob is here now and were just seeing the tip of the iceberg.
I've never recieved cuts, never had another grower come to my grow and carry his problem to my place.
I'm a veritable hermit and I've seen how easy and quick this stuff spread within my two grow sites.
I can only imagine how easily its being/could spread in legal med states where dispenseries and growers swap cuts on a daily basis. similar to a pandemic situation.
people are going to have to really scope *everything* on a regular basis from now on... I know i will be
An update of my garden after Avid application on the 4th. 1ml/gallon. My plants are looking great! I examined a few plants last night, and could not locate a single living broad mite. The plants have regained much of their vigor, and are rooting vigorously into their new media. I read mite damage can affect root growth of the plants. Now my roots are looking great and healthy. Im also using Promix Bx with Bio-Fungicide. I can't but praise this product. Holy Shit. Ive never had roots this healthy before. Tons and tons of root hairs all through the roots. Im also using RootShield Home and Garden, which is another strain of fungus that protects the roots from root pathogens. As well, as Truban 30wp to treat the disease. The other two are meant as preventative measures. A rare triple whammy. Fuck you root pathogens. Your not welcome in my garden.
Anyways, back on track. Plants that I had taken clone from a week ago fearing that the plant may not pull through, are now looking really nice now with renounced vigor and smell. When the mites were infecting my plants, there was little smell from them in veg, but now they stink up the room when handled. The smell has come back.
My garden is back on track. I just need to set up another flower chamber now. My plants are vegging too damned fast at this rate, and my flower tent is chock full.
Forbid, and Avid work great. I applied them a week apart I believe, and my garden has never looked better.
A few shots of my garden now. 20 days since starting treatment with Forbid, and Avid on the 4th. Spinosad was applied 4 maybe 5 days before first treatment of Forbid, and I did see an improvement in plant health, but Forbid, and Avid are a great one two punch that will put those fuckers right in the grave.
The last two shots are MangoHaze J, which just doesn't shit a Shit about the mites, but I still treated her just as well. After the reveg, the mites just never took a strong hold, while 3 other MangoHaze I revegged/flowered had a flare up again in pre-flowering, but are on track again. This MangoHaze and two others have shown mite resistance after initially having them. Thats always something nice to have in your ladies.
Anyways, back on track. Plants that I had taken clone from a week ago fearing that the plant may not pull through, are now looking really nice now with renounced vigor and smell. When the mites were infecting my plants, there was little smell from them in veg, but now they stink up the room when handled. The smell has come back.
My garden is back on track. I just need to set up another flower chamber now. My plants are vegging too damned fast at this rate, and my flower tent is chock full.
Forbid, and Avid work great. I applied them a week apart I believe, and my garden has never looked better.
A few shots of my garden now. 20 days since starting treatment with Forbid, and Avid on the 4th. Spinosad was applied 4 maybe 5 days before first treatment of Forbid, and I did see an improvement in plant health, but Forbid, and Avid are a great one two punch that will put those fuckers right in the grave.
The last two shots are MangoHaze J, which just doesn't shit a Shit about the mites, but I still treated her just as well. After the reveg, the mites just never took a strong hold, while 3 other MangoHaze I revegged/flowered had a flare up again in pre-flowering, but are on track again. This MangoHaze and two others have shown mite resistance after initially having them. Thats always something nice to have in your ladies.
Attachments
-
la caja china2 -
Afropips Swazi Red Veg 000.jpg -
Afropips Swazi Red Veg 001.jpg -
Afropips Swazi Red Veg 002.jpg -
Shit 20 days Post treatment of Forbid-6 days Post Avid001.jpg -
Shit 20 days Post treatment of Forbid-6 days Post Avid0.jpg -
Shit 6 Days Post treatment of Forbid.jpg -
Feb 10th MangoHaze J.jpg -
Feb 10th MangoHaze J001.jpg
hey dave!
great to hear your beating them lil devils down!
my avid came in friday and I sprayed my grow down.
forbid should be in 1st of this week, maybe tomorrow and will use that if need be but just one day after the avid spray i could swear my plants look better, of course they're a bit beat down and frazzled from a weeks worth of spraying iso, volck oil
and dealing with the mites.
Q, does forbid kill the eggs?
I think avid does but not sure about forbid.'
friend of mine hit his with forbid but still had a few live ones days later,
I'm thinking it may have been new mites hatchlings
on another note i had a small plant infested with the broads and tented it in a large trashbag overnite with a NPS, next day I looked for 10 minutes and couldn't find one live mite, I hit it with avid anyways to deal with the eggs
great to hear your beating them lil devils down!
my avid came in friday and I sprayed my grow down.
forbid should be in 1st of this week, maybe tomorrow and will use that if need be but just one day after the avid spray i could swear my plants look better, of course they're a bit beat down and frazzled from a weeks worth of spraying iso, volck oil
and dealing with the mites.
Q, does forbid kill the eggs?
I think avid does but not sure about forbid.'
friend of mine hit his with forbid but still had a few live ones days later,
I'm thinking it may have been new mites hatchlings
on another note i had a small plant infested with the broads and tented it in a large trashbag overnite with a NPS, next day I looked for 10 minutes and couldn't find one live mite, I hit it with avid anyways to deal with the eggs
Remember guys.... after all the heavy duty stuff Avid/Forbid.... Just follow up once a week with Triple Action Neem Oil.... it kills them on contact and its an ovacide so eggs are killed as well.... with the Triple Action Neem you wont have to go back to the Heavy stuff... only if you plan on bringing in new cuts will you need them...
max_well
Member
Avid (abamectin) is not an ovicide. Forbid 4F is labeled to have ovicidal function. Liquid sulfur may have some egg-killing activity as well.
- Status
