Broad Mites?

[eric2028]

gk1- whats ur experience so far with nukem? I read up on it, seems too good to be true. would be awesome if it works on bm s.

 

[Some old dude]

Serious measures

Serious measures

The problem I see here is what I believe is a misunderstanding of these mites. These are not your friendly "spidys" these bastards are other worldly. You can't just use something like nuke-em or neem or any other so-called safe treatment (I wish it was so). You need a long term "trans laminar" because the way the bugs hide and the action and size of the bug and the toxins they produce. I am a thirty five year grower and have been battling these guys for many years.Unfortunately among the people who started fighting these guys many years ago they found forbid to be the best. I have read that many used forbid incorrectly (used too much or multiple times). I will not use it again I will try heat and other methods and have my end product tested before use. But I was mite free for over a year with one time application over the last year. I waited for two months after spraying before putting into flower as well. I have read some people spray even in start of flower cycle. I would never recommend this. Although it sounds like i'm endorsing forbid,I am not. I do not recommend using this product.I am just giving my experience's.

 

[Jbomber79]

Folks sesame seed oil is toxic to BM's just an FYI.

 

[nkatadelgormo]

So i couldn't figure out what the problems were with these plants. If you ever see this deformity, its broad mites. 100%. Its not tmv or a deficiency. Its broad mites. Using heat treatment today. Keeping my fingers crossed.

 

[GK1]

gk1- whats ur experience so far with nukem? I read up on it, seems too good to be true. would be awesome if it works on bm s.

ending my first cycle with Nukem treatment.....no spider mites, no BM's , no bugs whatsoever. Friends using it had success with PM as well. It seems to be as advertised but need repeatable results in next few tests.

This is a product you shouldn't knock unitl you have tried it. The only negative I have heard is to follow directions regarding light and leaf wetness. They should have followed directions.

 

[GK1]

Folks sesame seed oil is toxic to BM's just an FYI.

Speaking of "too good to be true".....

http://store.organicagsolutions.com..._Code=ORNU&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=phytol2oz

Check that stuff out! Sesame oil included.

 

[HAZE FIEND]

Folks sesame seed oil is toxic to BM's just an FYI.

really!! does anyone else have any info or proof to back this up plz?

just got some clone onlys but there sealed off for now rooting n wana make sure i take every precaution i can when they are opened again to make sure if they had these fooks on em that they aint guna for long lol and is this safe to put on our smokable crop yes?? or will it have any negative affect on plant health? and/or end smokable product quality basicaly?

 

[eric2028]

that link looks good but I didn't see broad mite listed. keep us posted on that nuke em if u don't mind. thanx bro

 

[Jbomber79]

Yo

Yo

I suggest only using a light light spray if in flower..theres ton's of stuff on the internet honestly I read that in an Ed Rosenthal book a few years ago and it works for me here is my spray that I have gotten to work thus far:
Note: You gotta spray the hell outaofem!

320z spray bottle
1tblspn sesame oil
1/2 table spoon of natural dish soap or less...
1tblspn of neem
tap of lavendar or cinn

repeat after 5-7days and should kill the basstadsss! Like I said
drinch them underneath above on the stem the little creatures will move from plant to plant with ease!

really!! does anyone else have any info or proof to back this up plz?

just got some clone onlys but there sealed off for now rooting n wana make sure i take every precaution i can when they are opened again to make sure if they had these fooks on em that they aint guna for long lol and is this safe to put on our smokable crop yes?? or will it have any negative affect on plant health? and/or end smokable product quality basicaly?

 

[HAZE FIEND]

I suggest only using a light light spray if in flower..theres ton's of stuff on the internet honestly I read that in an Ed Rosenthal book a few years ago and it works for me here is my spray that I have gotten to work thus far:
Note: You gotta spray the hell outaofem!

320z spray bottle
1tblspn sesame oil
1/2 table spoon of natural dish soap or less...
1tblspn of neem
tap of lavendar or cinn

repeat after 5-7days and should kill the basstadsss! Like I said
drinch them underneath above on the stem the little creatures will move from plant to plant with ease!

sweetas m8 i think i might have had em before when i also had the 2 spotted spidermite n done em both over with neem repel n plant vitality plus sprayed at night mixed with washin it all off n then doin long 3 day extreme heat n moisture peroids with fans off n lights on n constantly every chance i got sprayed with water like evry 10 to 15 mins for 2 month!

IIINN VEGG THISS ISS SAFE PEOPLE

DO NOT DO IN FLOOOWER!

but thanks for your tip bro i like to always have more than one plan of action n be prepaired if anythin bad does happen again as they was hard to get rid of but they went soon after the spider mites did with my treatments but i like the sounda yors hehe they wana put toxins in our crops we will put somethin harmless to us n toxic to them on our crops haha makes sense to me

 

[RetroGrow]

wow 50k ? i have 6 plants in a 3mx 2m room , 2.5k of predator mites not even close enough?

I didn't know how many plants you had. You mentioned large plants and small. Also, how large are the plants? I had 7 footers. Yours are probably not that size, I am guessing. Also, mine were sativas, so tall, not bushy. You might have six large bushes, I don't know. But, as a general rule, from my reading, and talking to vendors who sell these, 1000 predators is a good number for a "large" plant. Your mileage will vary according to size of the plants. Didn't mean to freak you out with the 50,000 number. That would be for a larger room. But, if they told you it was 200 X what you need, that is incorrect. Better to have more than you need than less. I would prefer to err on the side of caution, and go with 1000 per plant, but it's all dependent on plant size. Also, you can raise your own predators. Be advised though, that heat or chems will kill the predators also, so don't introduce them until after other treatments. And don't forget the aspirin.

 

[RetroGrow]

First off, I'm one of those guys thanking you for the heat treatment idea. Lets not get to sensitive and have discussion, yes?

Regardless of what Robert Connel Clark says, heat can indeed be very damaging in bloom. My experience in N Cal in the last 20 years says something much different....I have grown in 5 different counties and I can positively say that the best medicine by far was/is produced in the micro climates that had October days with highs right around the number most use indoors, 80. In the central valley grows, where temps reached over 100 during similar phase, potency was indeed less. Same strains grown under same protocols tested for potency. Repeated every time for a decade. If its wrong then its wrong but it is from real experience not from a book.

I feel the heat treatment is really good for helping manage a space as much as the plants. I will jack my empty room as high as I can between cycles. I will also use it in veg.

I am seeing tremendous results with a product called Nukem. It is all natural and seems to good to be true. We'll see.

Super heat for empty rooms, heat in veg and Nukem just before bloom. Looks good so far. I'll let ya know.

For knowledge.....
how often is it necessary to run the heat treatment in bloom? If I run it as I enter bloom and have to run it several times in the next 9 weeks then how good is it? I can do better than that with a miticide approved for fruits and vege's used entering bloom. Nukem is food grade product and seems.......like I said, we'll see.

I'm not knocking your heat treatment. Not at all. I simply have experience that tells me not to do it in bloom. I may be new to this forum but I am hardly new to the game. I appreciate your desire to share with others but feel community is about far more than sucking up to someone with more posts. Presenting a dissenting opinion often leads to more discovery......

Thank you again for exposing me to heat treatment. It will be a tool in the box from here on out.

Peace.

I think we're talking apples & oranges here. You are talking about plants growing outdoors for months in extreme heat and probably low humidity. I can see why that might be a problem, with strains being another variable. Equatorial strains, some of the highest THC producing strains in the world, do fine in the heat of the equator, which is unabated. However, I'm talking about 45 minutes to an hour or so, and then back on goes the AC. So you are talking about a lot of stress over extended time periods on unnamed strains. The heat treatment only lasts for an hour. I have not found any ill effects from it at all. In fact, the plants seem to like it, as they perk up afterwards. I have used it in flower, and have gotten feedback from others that have used it in flower. All feedback has been positive. So personally, I have no problem using it in flower. Now, obviously, you treat in veg as much as possible, and your plants are mite free entering the flower period. The problem is, as anyone who has had these knows, is that they reenter your grow space from your home environment, so there may be a smaller number of mites entering your room during flower that weren't on the plants in veg, and so, haven't been treated. This is why I don't hesitate to use heat FOR AN HOUR in flower. These plants are weeds and are quite resilient. In nature, they have to endure extremes at times, and they have evolved to endure this. Some strains may be less heat tolerant than others. I haven't studied this. I can't test every strain, but again, I haven't gotten any negative feedback via PM in regards to an hour long heat treatment. I don't like to spray anything on plants during flower. If nothing else, it effects the taste, and I prefer not to roll the dice with toxins. Also, as I posted, there is research saying that heat makes plants produce more resin as a protective barrier. You may know that exterminators are now using heat to treat various pests, including bed bugs and scabies. This is becoming more common and is the preferred treatment for bedbugs. Fortunately for us, mites are very heat sensitive, so temperatures that exterminators use against bed bugs are not necessary. Mites will die @ 115F for the most part. I used 120 just to be safe, as a bit of research tells you that various greenhouses that use heat against mites in the form of hot water dips use different temperatures on different plant species. I have seen recommendations of anywhere from 111 to 118, so I used 120 to be safe. I didn't know at the time I first tried it how the plants would react, but sat in the sauna with them to observe whether or not anything was going wrong. Happily, there were no visible problems, except for the mites. They were all dead.

 

[dramamine]

A few days ago, I ran 120 degrees for an hour to battle spider mites. All the flowers closest to the lights burned, even though I had moved them back a good foot more than usual. Also, it seemed to do nothing against the spider mites. Seemed like a great solution, but I really regret trying it now. Retro, do you raise your lights to the ceiling beforehand or something? I guess I agree with GK1.....good empty room solution, but not around flowering plants.

 

[oldmanriver1]

ya my big 1s are only around 2 ft tall and bushy. The label says 10/20 predator mites per m2 i have like 6m2 or so but i let loose the whole 2.5k,dosed up w aspin in res and sprayed with as well.
Poor girls just look so sad and droopy, good news is that the small clones are growing well so i suppose they havent been infested , and with predators hopefully when my big girls leave and i treat room minus plants that i have a bm freeish room

why would god make such a creature?

 

[RetroGrow]

A few days ago, I ran 120 degrees for an hour to battle spider mites. All the flowers closest to the lights burned, even though I had moved them back a good foot more than usual. Also, it seemed to do nothing against the spider mites. Seemed like a great solution, but I really regret trying it now. Retro, do you raise your lights to the ceiling beforehand or something? I guess I agree with GK1.....good empty room solution, but not around flowering plants.

This treatment is for broad/cyclamen mites, not spider mites. This is the broad mite thread. If your plants were burned by the lights, you had them way too close. By your own admission, the plants close to the lights got burned, not the ones that weren't close to the lights. That should tell you that you had them too close, for if it were just the temperature in the room, all plants would have been burned, no? The idea is to get the room temperature up by whatever means necessary, not scorch the plants with lights. Having already done this several times, I know that 120F has not scorched any of my plants. In my case, I used electric space heaters, as the room lights only brought temps to 105, however, i did not have them right on top of the plants, and I also used bare bulbs, no reflectors in metal cases which would increase the heat near the plants as they heat up like ovens once air cooling is turned off. A previous poster mentioned using heat treatments coupled with high humidity to control spider mites, however, there were no details as to temperatures used. Since I have not seen a spider mite in 20 years, I really have no experience with treating for them, and have never tried this. I don't know the heat tolerance of spider mites, which are many times larger than microscopic broad mites, whose tiny bodies cannot dissipate heat. What kind of light system did you have, and what strain of cannabis? My recommendation to anyone is to try it on one plant first if you are worried. GK1 has not yet tried it, and is basing his opinions on his observations of plants in the heat of summer for long periods of time. Totally different situation. But I don't think anyone should try it if they are uncomfortable with the idea.

 

[RetroGrow]

ya my big 1s are only around 2 ft tall and bushy. The label says 10/20 predator mites per m2 i have like 6m2 or so but i let loose the whole 2.5k,dosed up w aspin in res and sprayed with as well.
Poor girls just look so sad and droopy, good news is that the small clones are growing well so i suppose they havent been infested , and with predators hopefully when my big girls leave and i treat room minus plants that i have a bm freeish room

why would god make such a creature?

Well, hopefully this will work for you. I researched several vendors of these, of which there are many, and recommendations vary as to numbers needed. It is really impossible to say as your infestation may be small or large numbers. Remember, regardless of treatment method, they will be back, as they are in your house now, and are virtually impossible to get rid of once there. They will keep reentering the room.
As to why god would make such a creature, the answer is, "he" wouldn't, just as "he" wouldn't make mosquitoes, which kill millions. Creatures aren't made by "someone", they evolve from the first primordial life.
However, I don't want to get into any ontological arguments or offend any "creationists", although I doubt there are any on a weed forum.

 

[dramamine]

This treatment is for broad/cyclamen mites, not spider mites. This is the broad mite thread. If your plants were burned by the lights, you had them way too close. By your own admission, the plants close to the lights got burned, not the ones that weren't close to the lights. That should tell you that you had them too close, for if it were just the temperature in the room, all plants would have been burned, no? The idea is to get the room temperature up by whatever means necessary, not scorch the plants with lights. Having already done this several times, I know that 120F does not scorch plants. Nor has it burned anyone else's plants to my knowledge. In my case, I used electric space heaters, as the room lights only brought temps to 105, however, i did not have them right on top of the plants, and I also used bare bulbs, no reflectors in metal cases which would increase the heat near the plants as they heat up like ovens once air cooling is turned off. A previous poster mentioned using heat treatments coupled with high humidity to control spider mites, however, there were no details as to temperatures used. Since I have not seen a spider mite in 20 years, I really have no experience with treating for them, and have never tried this. I don't know the heat tolerance of spider mites, which are many times larger than microscopic broad mites, whose tiny bodies cannot dissipate heat. What kind of light system did you have, and what strain of cannabis? My recommendation to anyone is to try it on one plant first if you are worried. GK1 has not yet tried it, and is basing his opinions on his observations of plants in the heat of summer for long periods of time. Totally different situation.

Have it your way, dude. I run bare vert bulbs...maybe that was the difference? Like I said, I even moved the plants more than a foot further away from the lights than usual. Five or six different strains.
It was probably dumb of me to think that it would do anything to the spider mites, but it seemed worth mentioning that it burned the shit out of the flowers nearest the lights. Especially since you seem to keep saying that it could never happen. Sorry to rain on your parade.

 

[nofriend]

I successfully completed my heat treatment last night. I am currently on week three of flower. Temperatures under the canopy at 118F and temps at the top 122F for one hour. Plants did ok overall. 24 hours later the tops of some plants that were closer to the lights are showing burnt pistill (some strains more than others). The Girl Scout Cookies fared the worst. I will be shooting for lower temperatures next time. In the future I will also be growing my plants a bit shorter to help with this.

WARNING: I dont know if this was mentioned before, but please be careful with fan placement durring the heat treatment. I did have some leaves crisp up that were too close to circulation fans. The combination of the heat and the fan was to much. I ended up turning all my circulation fans off after about 30 minutes of 120F due to this.

Like LEDnewb, I can't find live BM with my scope, only eggs. The BM damage to my plants is very minimal. So I am hoping to have a successful harvest. I want to do another heat treatment a week from now and then every two weeks after that, but seeing how some pistils suffered I am a little hesitant. Maybe no heat treatments the last three weeks of flower. Will be using asprin here on out. Wish me luck.

 

[Messodas]

Have it your way, dude. I run bare vert bulbs...maybe that was the difference? Like I said, I even moved the plants more than a foot further away from the lights than usual. Five or six different strains.
It was probably dumb of me to think that it would do anything to the spider mites, but it seemed worth mentioning that it burned the shit out of the flowers nearest the lights. Especially since you seem to keep saying that it could never happen. Sorry to rain on your parade.

You can get rid of spider mites easy. Just spray them down with plain water, as long you are not in the last month of flowering. + there are tens of natural eco bio insecticides that work for spider mites. And SMites are the easiest pest to control. They don't like humidity and water, couse they get inflated with water and then they blow up and die.
In therms of heat treatment you must be doing something wrong. I did it twice and not a leaf was damaged. I had 24 plants and 9 different strains. And not a single one was damaged, they only were looking much happier after. And the mites damage stopped. You just need to water them good before heat t.
I'm not an ass kisser, but I believe more RG than you and others, as I see that some of you don't have no idea how the plants live, and how nature works.

 

[eric2028]

wonder if the guys that are having issues with the heat tx sprayed any chemicals within afew days of heating up to 120?