DIY $140 Mylar PVC Tent W/ 800CFM Ventilation(Cheap, Top-Quality)

[Cactuar]

Removed because everyone here was starting to ruin my buzz. I'm going back to growing bad ass plants inside of tents, instead of trying to help others do the same.

The information is available upon request by PM to me if you truly wish to build one of these.

It seems all except one here either had poor reading comprehension or felt a desire to throw flaming criticisms that are valid of any open air grow room design. The room is meant to be sealed and scrubbed with carbon scrubber, NOT the tent. MY DIY never mentioned price of lights, grow media, or scrubbers because that is separate.... and you were SUPPOSED to fill in those blanks.

 

[real ting]

Computer fans can't handle very much static pressure, meaning if they are pulling or pushing too much pressure they slow down to a crawl. So if you attempt to duct those so that you can use them as an exhaust, or attach them to some sort of carbon filter, you'll be lucky if they still spin. However you can stack them in series to get more pressure capability, but limited to the max cfms of a single fan.

With them all spread out like that, it won't be an easy task to set up any kind of ducting or filtration. One common problem micro cabs is people often overlook the need for a true fresh air intake, and an actual exhaust, vs. just cycling the same air from a larger room into the smaller chamber over and over, like how a computer works. Plants need fresh air, and if you use any amount of lights the heat needs to be exhausted.

Another thing you could try is removing your intake fans, and using a larger sized passive intake. A good rule of thumb is 2x the total size of exhaust area in passive intake area. This is to compensate for any increased pressure due to however you lightproof it.

 

[VagPuncher]

TBH, i'd rather just buy a tent.

 

[Purple Monster]

u can get a nice dr100 tent for $180. fwiw

 

[Cactuar]

Thanks for the kind words ... WTF

The temp inside the tent is only 6 degrees above ambient temp(outside tent, inside room)!!! Your supposed to just get an AC to cool the room. Or you can do what I did in my main tent(scaled up same design) and tape an AC intake to the Mylar wall of the tent itself. For scrubber you run that in the room or use the 1/2 foot clearance between the tent and the ceiling to channel air with cardboard into the intake for a scrubber.

If you guys don't understand that $140 for a Mylar tent with 800CFM ALL PARTS INCLUDED is a great deal then your blind or never actually read anything. The only valid criticism is that it is very laborious(as I have warned above).

the dr100 tent plus their 760CFM fan would cost 180 + 190 + probably $50(since shipping heavy ass stuff) = $420!!!

 

[VagPuncher]

How long did it take you?

 

[messn'n'gommin']

Pretty slick! Well thought out and detailed! Well done!

Just a thought, but would cutting a 3x2 sheet of plywood (notched for the uprights) for a "floor" (and attached to the base cross-pieces) be easier to lightproof? If it won't be carrying all that much weight, 1/2" should work. But I would be leery of any kind of load capacity of anything less than that. I'm not sure of the cost of plywood these days, but an increase in cost of maybe, $10?

Also, I'm curious to what you think of just gluing the blue and green cross pieces together to form the squares, but leaving the pieces for the uprights unglued for easy break down? Would the lack of glue at those particular points make for a less stable structure?

Thanks, man! This has got me to thinking! (lol...no easy task)

 

[Bunz]

Thanks for the kind words ... WTF

The temp inside the tent is only 10 degrees above ambient temp(outside tent, inside room)!!! Your supposed to just get an AC to cool the room. Or you can do what I did in my main tent(scaled up same design) and tape an AC intake to the Mylar wall of the tent itself. For scrubber you run that in the room or use the 1/2 foot clearance between the tent and the ceiling to channel air with cardboard into the intake for a scrubber.

If you guys don't understand that $140 for a Mylar tent with 800CFM ALL PARTS INCLUDED is a great deal then your blind or never actually read anything. The only valid criticism is that it is very laborious(as I have warned above).

the dr100 tent plus their 760CFM fan would cost 180 + 190 + probably $50(since shipping heavy ass stuff) = $420!!!

Those computer fans won't pull 800cfm once you create a "negative air" chamber in your grow tent. As stated above the static pressure created will slow them down to almost nothing. The 760cfm fan you list will actually pull 760cfm. Not trying to flame or trash you, just stating facts.

Sun Hut XL is only $199 at Grow Wurks. Granted I live in So Cal, so I'll just will call it, but I'd rather spend the extra money for something that will be a lot sturdier then mylar stretched over PVC.

JMO

Bunz

 

[SirTOKESalot]

I dont think i could handle the all of the tape everywhere, and wires and the how much of a mess it is... I have always liked DIY that were clean and done well, this kinda seems like a waste of time IMO.

Why dont you goto a home reno store, buy cheap ass 2x4 and some thin press board.
Then go buy a cheap inline fan. and i bet you spend 75$ and mabye get some white paint... Sturdy and will prob hold air alot bettter.

 

[Green lung]

I'm guessing you never grew before?

 

[CaptainChronizl]

mylar? couldn't you find something more fragile to build with?


i see you are very technical and appreciate your attempt to pass knowledge. this is the first design of many, move on. i'm just not seeing anything spectacular other than your ability to post with excellent graphics and fotos.

 

[Cactuar]

Those computer fans won't pull 800cfm once you create a "negative air" chamber in your grow tent. As stated above the static pressure created will slow them down to almost nothing. The 760cfm fan you list will actually pull 760cfm. Not trying to flame or trash you, just stating facts.

Sun Hut XL is only $199 at Grow Wurks. Granted I live in So Cal, so I'll just will call it, but I'd rather spend the extra money for something that will be a lot sturdier then mylar stretched over PVC.

JMO

Bunz

Negative air pressure is NOT CREATED because # intake fans = # exhaust fans; if you read. The actual CFM of tent could only be limited by the max RPM of the fans. Then the real CFM would be 50% of the sum total of fans used. Which is still a great deal. You would be lucky to find a 400CFM ventilation system for $140(all of which won't actually perform at rated if using passive intake, so you need 2). You would be even luckier to find a Mylar/ Black and White Poly tent for $140. This DIY gives you both for $140, albeit with ALOT of work involved.

you earlier suggested in you first reply that I should remove my intake fans for a larger passive intake, THEN YES I WOULD HAVE THE NEGATIVE PRESSURE PROBLEM YOU DESCRIBE. BUT I DON'T WANT THAT PROBLEM. Not trying to trash you.

PLUS .... you could replace the flimsy Mylar with black and white poly bought from the hydro shop for about same price.

to vagpuncher : it took me about 8 man hours spread over two days once you have all materials.

THIS IS A CHEAP MICRO GROW DESIGN PEOPLE!!!!!

 

[Rysam]

I found a fridge for free, 250w lumatek ballast for 100$,MH bulb 25$, a stanley blower for 25$, and a sheet of foil backed foam panel 10$(not needed)
oh and a couple cfl's from the bathroom light fixtures.

160$ and I have a mechanicals section, a clone section and a 24x24x36 grow space that is light tight, incognito, quiet, and strong.

Im lazy so turn your head sideways.

 

[Cactuar]

I'm guessing you never grew before?

I've grew for 6 years now. 3 years with this tent design, refined over the years.

 

[Cactuar]

Pretty slick! Well thought out and detailed! Well done!

Just a thought, but would cutting a 3x2 sheet of plywood (notched for the uprights) for a "floor" (and attached to the base cross-pieces) be easier to lightproof? If it won't be carrying all that much weight, 1/2" should work. But I would be leery of any kind of load capacity of anything less than that. I'm not sure of the cost of plywood these days, but an increase in cost of maybe, $10?

Also, I'm curious to what you think of just gluing the blue and green cross pieces together to form the squares, but leaving the pieces for the uprights unglued for easy break down? Would the lack of glue at those particular points make for a less stable structure?

Thanks, man! This has got me to thinking! (lol...no easy task)

Thanks man! You could definitely do what your saying about not gluing the vertical supports(only the red bars above the trellis layer, yellow bars must be firmly secure). I think you could make a plywood flooring that would be light tight and could help keep the tent mobile ... great idea! I think your the only person that commented that actually read more that 10% of my original post, lol.

Everyone else just saw some pics with some duct tape, next an avatar with low post count and recent join date; Then they all joined the flaming parade... like I give a shit.

This is here for all to help people that don't want to order a more expensive giant tent over the internet, or people that can't get refrigerators for free... plus you can tailor the dimensions to EXACTLY what you want.

 

[Purple Monster]

If you guys don't understand that $140 for a Mylar tent with 800CFM ALL PARTS INCLUDED is a great deal then your blind or never actually read anything. The only valid criticism is that it is very laborious(as I have warned above).

the dr100 tent plus their 760CFM fan would cost 180 + 190 + probably $50(since shipping heavy ass stuff) = $420!!!

Let's be realistic. People pay good money for tent setups because they are proven to be durable, easy to use, setup, tear down, etc.

I read your entire post, so dont jump to conclusions that we're all morons here. Some people prefer good quality tents over the cheaper bare bones functionality. That's just the way she goes.

 

[Green lung]

Thats a good tent to have your whole house reak of bud.


1. The PVC construction is good, black and white poly would be much better. You may he should try some of that thick black poly they have home depot and maybe spray paint it white?


2. Drop those shitty computer fans and put and inline duct fan in
there(35$).

3. Attach a carbon filter in there.


You are makin shit way to complicated

 

[Cactuar]

Thats a good tent to have your whole house reak of bud.


1. The PVC construction is good, black and white poly would be much better. You may he should try some of that thick black poly they have home depot and maybe spray paint it white?


2. Drop those shitty computer fans and put and inline duct fan in
there(35$).

3. Attach a carbon filter in there.


You are makin shit way to complicated

wow ... you didn't even read my replies to others. I understand the first post post, but come on...

I stated that black and white poly could be changed for Mylar for same price. I also indicated how you could modify the design to channel air into a scrubber with a giant cardboard box on the exhaust. If you take half of a giant box, put it over the exhaust fans so it covers all fans. Then tape it tight to the top of the tent and carve out a duct hole for the scrubber.

You could, as you state, simply get rid of the computer fans and work with inline fans, but this is more expensive. I would love to have a link for buying a 800CFM(or even 400CFM) inline fan for $35('booster' inlines don't count). Not to mention more conspicuous to buy/have delivered.

AGAIN, THIS IS MEANT TO BE CHEAP AND EFFICIENT

 

[Mr. Bongjangles]

Bunch of computer fans replacing 1 proper inline fan that could be ducted directly to a scrubber makes very little sense and saves very little money.

Letting tainted air into the room to be scrubbed makes even less sense, and the idea you just mentioned of pushing it into the scrubber with a cardboard box would let tainted air pass through the cardboard itself. Maybe if you used a plastic box of some kind, but at that point you're putting a lot of extra strain on those cheap pc fans cause they have to suck air into the tent and push it out through the scrubber. They are not designed for that at all, as they lack the static pressure to move air over distance.

Who wants to put their trust in a bunch of 3 dollar fans from china anyways? You're sacrificing a lot of safety and reliability here to save a meager few dollars.

85 bucks for a Valueline 6'' inline fan, though I bet the $67 4'' would blast more air than this mouse-trap setup of tiny computer fans.

The 6'' would prolly suck the walls right off this tent, hehe.

A properly matched fan & filter provides a level of security you really couldn't put a price tag on. In this case, sacrificing it to save less than 50 dollars strikes me as absolutely absurd.

Neat PVC design though - I like how it has the scrogg support bars.

 

[Cactuar]

It seems all except one here either had poor reading comprehension or felt a desire to throw flaming criticisms that are valid of any open air grow room design. The room is meant to be sealed and scrubbed with carbon scrubber, NOT the tent. MY DIY never mentioned price of lights, grow media, or scrubbers because that is separate.... and you were SUPPOSED to fill in those blanks.

to bongjangles ... you could have solved the problem of static pressure(from blowing exhaust into the scrubber) by attaching an inline(as I do) to the scrubber to help pull air into the scrubber. I assumed everyone used an inline to suck air through the scrubber.

Im tired of this, as a result i've removed the DIY instructions. There were electrical warnings included after all and can't have people skimming through those...