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bobblehead's organic bedroom of high brix gardening

bobblehead

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Looking great Bobble.


I haven't seen a double screen in years possibly. Keep it up. Almost making me want to go horizontal. : x


~mr. gt

Thanks, hopefully I fill the 2nd screen. I might have to drop it down some. Mr. D says the chemmy jones is a stretcher so she might fill it in as-is.
 

mr. gt

Active member
I would spread the nodes out and see what your working with, than decide on the right height closer to flower. Seems a lot of the screen is still empty. Why don't you pull some of those nodes down and bring them closer to us in that second picture.


Its a lot easier to cut the pvc shorter than to realize its too short and have to start over.
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
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OK so it wasn't really trash. I gave him four gallons of worm castings with worms, half gallon of azomite and green sand, and a gallon of crushed egg shells.

Oh and some crap from joesy whales, called GG#4.
 

Kozmo

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"This is around 4 weeks. The bed in the front of the pic ended up getting culled by week 7. Those plants never turned around. It turns out you can't take large plants fed synthetic nutes, and switch them over to organics. They don't have the roots of an organic plant. Expensive lesson to learn. The bed behind it is Straw DD, doing well."


Well this sucks to find out... It has turned out to cost me money as well. I got ahold of GG4 cut along with Stardawg and can't figure on the way they behave. They were synthetic and I'm in organic. They had roots started. I see why it is best to get your cuts uncut now.
 

Mister_D

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1 week in...
View Image
View Image

Chemmy Jones
View Image

Berry sour cream
View Image


So what were you saying about my soil Mr. D? :D

I'll be impressed when they look that good all the way through :biggrin:. At least you finally have some decent genetics in there though :laughing:

Did you figure out what your earlier nute issue was caused by? Didn't cook the soil long enough perhaps? On that note, what are you doing as far as teas these days?
 

bobblehead

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I'll be impressed when they look that good all the way through :biggrin:. At least you finally have some decent genetics in there though :laughing:

Did you figure out what your earlier nute issue was caused by? Didn't cook the soil long enough perhaps? On that note, what are you doing as far as teas these days?

Dude... my beds are no-till, meaning I'm still using the same soil I've had since day 1, no mixing except for the top 3" when I'm amending. The concept of cooking soil is a bit of a fallacy. There is some microbial activity sure, but the majority of nutrient cycling requires roots releasing exudates to stimulate microbial populations and increase the level of available nutrients. Any cooking my beds needed was done a long time ago. Now my beds are colonized, and I haven't added anything for this grow. They should be pretty well balanced. I'll probably send in another sample to the lab soon to confirm I brought what was low up to sufficient levels. I had double the organic matter that's recommended, so it should be a little while before I need to add anything back.

The spider mites and thrips were going unchecked, that's what made the plants sick. I was trying to beat them using only horticulture oils, but that was ineffective. I got some captain jack's for the thrips, which has knocked them down. They still keep popping up so I'm going to keep up the treatments until they're all gone. They were hiding out in the cover crop I attempted to start, so I killed that. I ordered forbid for the mites, but the first vendor never shipped and I had to get a refund. Lost 2 weeks there. I reordered and got some forbid and knocked the mites down, which were also in the cover crop but not back on the cannabis thanks to the residual effects of forbid. Again, killed the cover crop. After that everything started turning green and growing right. Then I flipped the lights.

As for teas... I'm using the full lineup from TAINIO, yucca extract, quillaja extract (which I just dropped on the floor and shattered the bottle... not cool.), Ksil, ferti nitro, cytoplus, sea crop, molasses, CaCl2+triacontanol, stuff like that... I have some borax and Epsom on hand if I want to get crazy. Maybe throw in some EWC and really get wild. Don't forget the freshly harvested hippy tears.
 

Maina

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Yea that's why I asked I know a little is good a little more could screw your hole grow
 

Mister_D

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Dude... my beds are no-till, meaning I'm still using the same soil I've had since day 1, no mixing except for the top 3" when I'm amending. The concept of cooking soil is a bit of a fallacy. There is some microbial activity sure, but the majority of nutrient cycling requires roots releasing exudates to stimulate microbial populations and increase the level of available nutrients. Any cooking my beds needed was done a long time ago. Now my beds are colonized, and I haven't added anything for this grow. They should be pretty well balanced. I'll probably send in another sample to the lab soon to confirm I brought what was low up to sufficient levels. I had double the organic matter that's recommended, so it should be a little while before I need to add anything back.

You are mostly correct here, but there's couple important pieces to the puzzle you're missing. Direct nute cycling (top dressing) doesn't work especially efficiently with a lot of organic nutes until the beds have matured (complete soil food web is established). IME this takes about a year when working indoors. More or less depending on how much effort you put into building your mix, and encouraging biologic diversity. To be clear, I'm not saying that it doesn't/can't work, just that the difference between an established bed and a new bed is night and day. This is one reason why cooking is often recommended (Un-established soil is slower to process nutes, so it's better to do it before the plants are added to the equation). At this point in your bed's lives it would be much better for you to add your amendments to some base mix, wet with some EWC tea, allow it to cook for a couple weeks, then top dress the beds. You mention the root exudates, and you're correct but again missing something important. If the nutes have "cooked" i.e been made readily available, when the plants roots exude sugars in exchange for nutes they are ready for consumption almost immediately because the soil life already broke them down. If on the other hand you soil doesn't contain enough of whatever nute in the available form it will be deficient until the more can be processed by the soil life. The time lag in a new bed is enough to cause a loss in yield, while an established bed will be able to cycle raw inputs MUCH faster.

The spider mites and thrips were going unchecked, that's what made the plants sick. I was trying to beat them using only horticulture oils, but that was ineffective. I got some captain jack's for the thrips, which has knocked them down. They still keep popping up so I'm going to keep up the treatments until they're all gone. They were hiding out in the cover crop I attempted to start, so I killed that. I ordered forbid for the mites, but the first vendor never shipped and I had to get a refund. Lost 2 weeks there. I reordered and got some forbid and knocked the mites down, which were also in the cover crop but not back on the cannabis thanks to the residual effects of forbid. Again, killed the cover crop. After that everything started turning green and growing right. Then I flipped the lights.

Honestly it was probably those oils causing more harm than good. Can be tricky to use them effectively without damaging your plants.

As for teas... I'm using the full lineup from TAINIO, yucca extract, quillaja extract (which I just dropped on the floor and shattered the bottle... not cool.), Ksil, ferti nitro, cytoplus, sea crop, molasses, CaCl2+triacontanol, stuff like that... I have some borax and Epsom on hand if I want to get crazy. Maybe throw in some EWC and really get wild. Don't forget the freshly harvested hippy tears.

Looks like good stuff to me :biggrin:. I'd strongly encourage you to "get wild", invest in some high quality worm castings, and start making tea with it at least once a week. I believe I once told you a pound of quality castings is worth more than a pound of gold :scripture:. And of course no organic garden is complete without freshly harvested hippy tears :biggrin:. That's the key to getting two lbs. per light :peek:
 

thewhitelotus

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bout spit up my Mountain Dew when i read the hippy tears comment! well played sirs!

Glad to see things rippin again Bobble! pullin up a chair and going to reread this thread, as im starting to get the organic itch myself....that sounded bad

At any rate, keep up the good shit my friend!
 

Ichabod Crane

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I just gave him four gallons of fresh worm castings. Still had some worms in them. I feed green sand, egg shells, saw dust and plant waste to my worms. So he should have good castings.
 

Backyard Farmer

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So a bed without roots is a bed without microbes?

Just trying to keep us all honest :)

Edit: If that's so, than can someone remind me the purpose of brewing a tea?

Basically, yes.

It takes the root network plants to activate and support a microbial population.

Plants are able to attract the microbes they need to them.

I think teas are pointless. If you have soil that is balanced in mineral content and you grow plants in it, you'll have all the microbial activity you need from the relationship between plants and soil.

Putting spores in water with some food stock is never going to give the populations that good cultural practice will produce or even significant fungal activity. Its easy to grow bacteria.

If you look at who really is a compost tea proponent you'll also see they have a vested interested in that opinion...in that they want to sell you tea brewers, compost, and inoculants..
 

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