Blumat auto watering

[gdbud]

Im thinking that having an airstone mixing your nutrient solution in your rez might lead to air bubble in the tubing causing it to block up.... Do you guys run airstones in the rez or no?

I run two air stones in my res. to keep out any bubbles from the tubing right after I come out of the res. I installed a "T" then ran one line down to the plants and the other line runs up and is open to vent any air bubbles that might get into the line.

 

[Tyga]

I run two air stones in my res. to keep out any bubbles from the tubing right after I come out of the res. I installed a "T" then ran one line down to the plants and the other line runs up and is open to vent any air bubbles that might get into the line.

that's a great idea....

 

[heady blunts]

I run two air stones in my res. to keep out any bubbles from the tubing right after I come out of the res. I installed a "T" then ran one line down to the plants and the other line runs up and is open to vent any air bubbles that might get into the line.

gdbud turned me on to this design too. it works awesome. here's my diagram of it:

 

[NFD]

heady blunts

That is what I needed to see! Excellent design!!

 

[greenmatter]

done!!! long thread, but way worth the read! i'm gonna let all this settle into my brain before i ask any questions, but i am 100% sure you guys saved me about 20 floods and 30 other assorted fuck ups. kick ass thread!!!

 

[Grow4Flow]

gdbud turned me on to this design too. it works awesome. here's my diagram of it:

Just got a couple of patio kits delivered today from Planet Earth in only 2 days!

I had a questions about this diagram.....
Can the mainline be Tee'd off some more to feed 3 rows of pots? has anyone tried this?

I have 3 rows of 6 in a cabinet. I would imagine i would probably need 3 dump valves as well?

 

[rives]

I had a questions about this diagram.....
Can the mainline be Tee'd off some more to feed 3 rows of pots? has anyone tried this?

I have 3 rows of 6 in a cabinet. I would imagine i would probably need 3 dump valves as well?

Yes, you can tee off the main line but you would be better served by putting two of the thru-hull fittings in the reservoir and feeding your supply lines from both ends.

A word of caution about the vertical vent line coming up from the thru-hull adapter. I had that arrangement, and used clear tubing for the vertical riser so that it would double as a sight gauge for the reservoir. I noticed when I was using the dump valve to purge the system that water would drop completely out of the vent line as a result of the higher flow, even if the reservoir was full. Apparently there was less resistance for the water to be supplied out of that tube rather than the reservoir. The result was that by purging the air, I was actually pulling air into the system and trapping it.

Although the flows that I was creating with the dump valve were higher than what the Blumats would normally create, I can envision the same thing happening under high-demand conditions with several Blumats running.

 

[Grow4Flow]

A word of caution about the vertical vent line coming up from the thru-hull adapter. I had that arrangement.

so are you not recommending the use of the vent line?

so it would be better to have a thru-hull->feedline for each row?

 

[rives]

so are you not recommending the use of the vent line?

so it would be better to have a thru-hull->feedline for each row?

I stopped using the vertical vent after I saw what was happening. I'd been having fits trying to eliminate my problems with air getting trapped in the lines, and saw that it was working against me.

No, I didn't mean a separate thru-hull for each line, I meant make a U-shape with the feedline and take both ends back to thru-hulls. That way water is supplied from both ends.

Some place in here, I have a post about the last revision of my plumbing (Rev.27C, I think). I now have two lines coming from the reservoir, with one coming out to the front of the tent on each side of the door. They both go up the tent legs about a foot, and double back along each side, wrap around the back corners and join in the middle of the back of the tent. I set a "T" at that point, set so it is the highest point in the tent plumbing, and installed a solenoid valve on it that will automatically purge the air out.

In the picture below, you can see where the distribution plumbing is running along pvc supports that I put in so that I could maintain the elevation. The two sides come together in the middle of the back (hidden by the plant), and feed the solenoid valve that you can see in the upper right corner.

 

[Tyga]

So your suggesting to run 2 thru hull adapters? so it's a closed line? Do they provide 2 with the package or no? I'm running the vent line... when I first set them up I was getting like a air bubble right where it screws down on the feed line so when I started unscrewing them water wasn't coming out until I pinched the feed line and then proceeded to tighten it to the correct setting.

 

[rives]

Yes, (2) thru-hulls and close the loop. Only one adapter comes with each patio kit, but you can buy all of the parts individually. It will take you some time to purge all of the air out of the system.

 

[Grow4Flow]

They come with the kits huh? I didn't get any. I read something about different feed lines cause the stock ones sucked.

 

[rives]

Better give Planet Earth a holler. I just dug out one of my boxes, and the kit should include: (12) blumats, (23') of feed tubing, (1) T, (1) elbow, (1) coupler, (1) hose end piece, and (1) thru-hull connector. In addition to a couple of the patio kits, I bought a roll of each type of tubing (3 & 8mm), a bunch of valves, T's, elbows, couplers and several of the thru-hull fittings. Draw up how you think you want the system to go in, count up the fittings, and then double them.

I've got two systems running, and have remodeled the plumbing more times than I care to remember. If you are around all the time to monitor things, you may be able to put up with some minor hiccups, but I'm frequently gone for extended periods and the system has to work well. They are great when you figure out their little idiosyncrasies!

 

[Grow4Flow]

i hear ya, time is tough. I used to do aero but it required a lot of my time, now im finishing up my 3rd degree and new job allowing me no time which is why i came looking for an easier solution. just hope i don't lose any of my girls trying these things out.

 

[Grow4Flow]

I set a "T" at that point, set so it is the highest point in the tent plumbing, and installed a solenoid valve on it that will automatically purge the air out.

So where the lines come together at the "T" connector you have a solenoid connected to the "T"? can you provide a link to the solenoid?
and this alleviates the need for purging?

 

[rives]

So where the lines come together at the "T" connector you have a solenoid connected to the "T"? can you provide a link to the solenoid?
and this alleviates the need for purging?

Yes, the "T" is at the high point in the rear, so the air bubbles will gravitate towards it. The solenoid is mounted up on the right side, as you can see in the picture, and connected to the "T" with a length of hose. It discharges into the drain and is driven by a digital timer that turns it on for 2 minutes every other day. This bleeds about a 1/2 gallon of water out, and has done away with the need for manual purging. My reservoir is self-topping, so I don't need to worry about running it dry.

The solenoid - http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=7876K56

Fittings that fit the feed line - http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=5357K32

*EDIT* I just saw this old post and thought that I should add a change that I made - rather than the air bleed from the solenoid discharging into the drain, I wound up re-routing it to discharge back into the lower reservoir. Once I went from water-only to running a nutrient mix, I didn't want to waste it.

 

[Canniwhatsis]

Blumat newb,....


Fuck newb, only just debating the expense.



I'm looking at a 120 page thread,... first few seemed pretty basic explaining all of what I got from the website,....


Then I clicked on last,.... Ok, I'm F'n lost. I'm willing to do some reading but more than about 20 pages of BS and I'll give up.


I'm guessing this is,..... the last few pages are a quick lesson on hydrodynamics? :



None the less, Blumats are on my list of shit to research and try to acquire here in the US.


Links?

 

[rives]

Here you go.


http://www.planetearthhydro.com/categories/Tropf-Blumat-Watering-System/

http://www.planetearthhydro.com/products/Tropf-Blumat-Self%2dWatering-System.html

 

[Grow4Flow]

Here you go.


http://www.planetearthhydro.com/categories/Tropf-Blumat-Watering-System/

http://www.planetearthhydro.com/products/Tropf-Blumat-Self%2dWatering-System.html

Very trick Rives! thank you for the parts list, i'll get an order placed. Just trying to make it as pain free as possible and if this aids that, then i'm on it.


CWS, planet hydro was great to deal with, placed an order and had it 2 days later here in SoCal

 

[greenmatter]

so here is the plan ........

i've got 4 control buckets from an ebb and flow system that i think would be perfect for the res issue. i figured i would build a shelf as high as possible for those and use 1/2" black poly line for a loop. the loop should be under 25 feet, and i will put a T with a drain valve at the lowest point

if i understood correctly kent systems carries 3/32 T's that i can go from the poly to the 3mm blumat supply line with and if i push the T in through the bottom of the poly line it will save me some air bubble issues.

i have plants on two different levels so i am going to run more than one rez bucket. i will have almost a meter of drop for the upper row. running 1/2'' supply line for a 25 foot loop that should be more than enough drop right?????

i know having some extra 3 mm on each plant makes life lots easier. would using as much as necessary but as little as possible be a good rule of thumb?

please throw in your two cents!!! if i am missing something please yell!!