Iso doesn't need benzalkonium chloride to be denatured, as it is toxic all on its own. Iso is sometimes added to ethanol to denature it.
BC is sometimes added as a bitterant to keep alcoholics from drinking it anyway.
Benzalconium chloride
- Thread starter Biohpilic
- Start date
Iso doesn't need benzalkonium chloride to be denatured, as it is toxic all on its own. Iso is sometimes added to ethanol to denature it.
BC is sometimes added as a bitterant to keep alcoholics from drinking it anyway.
Hey guys,
Sorry to have taken so long.
Greywolf, it was for me, not someone else, but I got what you said, it's just garbage.
Flatslabs, I was telling the whole story, maybe pharmaceutical iso alcohol is not what I meant, I used rubbing alcohol, I just didn't know how to translate that to english.
Also, I have now a liter of "ethanol absolute, extra pure, Ph Eur, BP, USP", is that safe for qwet?
Sorry to have taken so long.
Greywolf, it was for me, not someone else, but I got what you said, it's just garbage.
Flatslabs, I was telling the whole story, maybe pharmaceutical iso alcohol is not what I meant, I used rubbing alcohol, I just didn't know how to translate that to english.
Also, I have now a liter of "ethanol absolute, extra pure, Ph Eur, BP, USP", is that safe for qwet?
For those unfamiliar with the term rubbing alcohol, it doesn't automatically mean isopropyl, and usually is made from denatured ethanol.
you talking about the "green" rubbing alcohol?
Both iso and rubbing alcohol can have color added.
If the bottle says rubbing alcohol, read the contents to see what it comprises.
You can also usually pull a MSDS sheet for that specific brand from the internet. It may list more detail about bitterants, denaturing agents, etc.
When asked, a seller must provide a MSDS sheet.
Rubbing alcohol vs isoproply alcohol..
Definately a difference there.
Man these language barriers can be a PITA.
Definately a difference there.
Man these language barriers can be a PITA.
I can't find the MSDS for the alcohol I used, all I can tell you is that it is in fact ethanol and not isopropyl, and that it contains benzalkonium chloride.
I did find however the MSDS for the ethanol I have now
http://www.scharlab.com/web_productos_detalle.php?idioma=EN&ref=ET00061000
Do you think this one is ok for doing a qwet run?
Also, I don't get it. Last time I made an extraction it really was with isopropyl, and this time I made it with ethanol thinking that it was isopropyl. How is it possible that I got the same kind of results, if I did them both with 20-30s washes when I should have done 3 mins with the ethanol?
I did find however the MSDS for the ethanol I have now
http://www.scharlab.com/web_productos_detalle.php?idioma=EN&ref=ET00061000
Do you think this one is ok for doing a qwet run?
Also, I don't get it. Last time I made an extraction it really was with isopropyl, and this time I made it with ethanol thinking that it was isopropyl. How is it possible that I got the same kind of results, if I did them both with 20-30s washes when I should have done 3 mins with the ethanol?
I would use the absolute ethanol at Scharlabs.
when using alcohol, it always says 99% isopropyl alcohol, and my ethanol says Diesel on it.
Biohpilic,
To answer your question about the length of a run it helps to understand the differences between the solvents in questions. Without going in depth into the chemistry, the reason Butane is used most frequently is because of its chemical properties that make it best at bonding with the non-polar aspects of the plant (i.e. THC and other goodies) and not the water solubles (chlorophyll, fats, lipids, undesirables). Ethanol would fall right under butane in its ability to extract non polars and not water solubles. Isopropyl is farther down the list and isn't as good of a solvent. It has a higher affinity to bond with water solubles (undesirables). So to avoid that, we keep the time of the wash really low (30 seconds as opposed to 3 minutes).
In other words, you could soak your product for 3 minutes with isopropyl, but you would pull out a bunch of undesirables from the plant. You can soak your product for 3 minutes with ethonal and have less of the undesirables removed. Basically, you could've kept going with your ethonal wash and probably extracted a little more, but you stopped at 30s.
You got the same results because you did basically the same extraction. The ethonal tec has a longer soak time because the solvent allows for it. The iso tec has a short wash time to avoid picking up undesirables. Better solvent = better extraction.
G
Thanks for your answers guys,
gholliday that makes sense, it's sad to know that I didn't extract all I could have, but it's poisonous anyway so I guess it doesn't really matter
graywolf I think I will follow your qwet tutorial with this ethanol, I'll try to post pics whenever I have time to make the extraction. Also, what do you look for when looking at the MSDS? The LD50 and toxicological effects? and how do they translate to being smoked, is it the same as the LD50 for ingestion?
gholliday that makes sense, it's sad to know that I didn't extract all I could have, but it's poisonous anyway so I guess it doesn't really matter
graywolf I think I will follow your qwet tutorial with this ethanol, I'll try to post pics whenever I have time to make the extraction. Also, what do you look for when looking at the MSDS? The LD50 and toxicological effects? and how do they translate to being smoked, is it the same as the LD50 for ingestion?
I usually first go to section 3 and look to see what health effects it has. If it is a carcinogen, teratogen, or mutagen, I don't use it.
Having said that, except for ethyl alcohol. Ethyl alcohol has been studied extensively, and shown to be salubrious in small quantities, but take a look at what all it has been shown capable of, to bodies, families, and the fabric of society in general when used in excess and in high concentration.
I also look in section 8 for exposure limits, such as Permissible Exposure Limits and Threshold limit Values.
I look in section 11 and 12 to determine the Lethal Dose and Lethal Concentrations per kg of body weight, and how dangerous it is to the environment.
Section 9 also has a bunch of useful physical information.
Another worthwhile document to check, is the attached FDA standards for solvents.
Having said that, except for ethyl alcohol. Ethyl alcohol has been studied extensively, and shown to be salubrious in small quantities, but take a look at what all it has been shown capable of, to bodies, families, and the fabric of society in general when used in excess and in high concentration.
I also look in section 8 for exposure limits, such as Permissible Exposure Limits and Threshold limit Values.
I look in section 11 and 12 to determine the Lethal Dose and Lethal Concentrations per kg of body weight, and how dangerous it is to the environment.
Section 9 also has a bunch of useful physical information.
Another worthwhile document to check, is the attached FDA standards for solvents.
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Thanks a lot GrayWolf, as usual you are incredibly helpful and reliable. You have no idea of how much the skunkpharm website has helped me during the last few months, it's great to find people who take this seriously and openly share information based on extensive experience and experimenting.
Both the ethanol and a bit of trim I had left are now in the freezer waiting to be extracted tonight. I've been reading about decarboxylation and since I'm smoking/vaping this oil I think I'll keep temperatures as low as possible during the purge. Is it ok if I just let it evaporate on a big Pyrex dish (it's about 3-4g so it will end up being a really thin film) covered with tin foil with holes in it and a fan blowing over it?
Both the ethanol and a bit of trim I had left are now in the freezer waiting to be extracted tonight. I've been reading about decarboxylation and since I'm smoking/vaping this oil I think I'll keep temperatures as low as possible during the purge. Is it ok if I just let it evaporate on a big Pyrex dish (it's about 3-4g so it will end up being a really thin film) covered with tin foil with holes in it and a fan blowing over it?
Evaporating off in a big dish works, but you will still need to heat a thin film of it hot enough for the bubbles to escape the surface tension, for a complete purge.
I left it evaporating for about 48h, until it was completely dry. I then put it in a heat mat for a while (~45' at 50C), until it was liquid again and scraped it into a pile in the middle of the pyrex and there I whipped it multiple times with a needle. Do you think that's enough purging or should I heat it more? I took a couple of dabs and there was no alcohol taste (I'm fairly new to dabbing so it still is rough for me, I coughed like there was no tomorrow), the effects were potent too, I regretted doing it in the morning.
