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Absolute Amber from Banana Silver Ladyboys

RulaTone

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Im assuming no one is answering my questions because they really dont know some answers. Im starting to believe that my friend makes his glass without the ethanal wash. He only uses buane and he doesnt let the product sit in the butane for long so he doesnt pick up waxes like you guys do so it turns to glass. He also said that if you do the process using main buds, it turns to glass. He said that because you guys soak your product for a long time, you are picking up waxes and things that he doesnt pick up. He also said london butane sucks and is not 5x filtered.

5x filtered doesnt mean nothing, you just have to get good tane, and the work is done...many brands have good tane...
You are right if you put whole flowers without breaking too much in a glass tube extractor and working carefully you can get hard shatter oil just from the primary pass in butane. It's also important to use a large enough pan, good atmospheric conditions, and good genetics.
I get glassy oil almost all the time with my best genetics, i just have to work carefully.


Here with the double extraction method the interesting part is you can soak for a longer time maximizing yeld, thus yelding a lot more indesiderables, but you will get rid of them in the second wash, wich will pick just the good portion.
I find it very useful when i do x-large runs, because you can spray all the oil in a relatively little pan, don't have to wait for all the tane to go out and do a good purge wich would involve larger pan and long time...
you just get at the point it is all in bubbles, then you spray it with the right amount of ethanol dissolving resin and offgasing butane very fast.
Then put ethanol in freezer, i found -20°c is just enough, but more freezing will give better results.
At -20°c resins and waxes are yet a little dissolved togheter..
You can filter them by a syringe filter or paper filter..and yes you will surely see waxes with your eyes, if the prior extraction picked them up!
If you had gooey brownish oil, you can still get very fine golden glassy oil by a second wash.
95° ethanol (liquor) worked fine in my case you don't need more purity grade to do the trick


Look at this
Butane extracted resin

DSCN0284.jpg
Waxes left behind after winterization
DSCN0406.jpg
Nice shatter oil
DSCN0347.jpg

This thread is so confusing cause it changes and takes over 5 hours to read. This thread also can be dangerous to some when they dont understand the full thread and some like myself still dont. Here are my questions for the 3rd time:

I have some questions on this process.

1. What is the best type of extractor material to use? Stainless steel, Glass, Plastic?
Glass is always best for all extractions doesnt matter wich is the solvent.
2. In the USA, what can I buy in stores that will be safe to use to hold my trim and butane? What size bottle and for how much butane?
i dont live there but in the USA man i bet you can manage something...look for stainless or pyrex laboratory glass with the required shape to get a plug on it to spray gas inside.
3. How long do I put the butane can into the freezer and is this dangerous?
Freezing will keep it liquid, no danger, keep it there as long as you want, just be sure valve is up.
4. Do I spray the butane into the extractor bottle and let it sit for 30 minutes? What are the benefits or problms if you let it sit for longer or for shorter?
I found a little longer maybe better for yeld, maybe an hour but the less you stay the less indesiderables you get
5. When I pour the butane into the coffee pot, do i use a filter or is the filter for after I add ethenol?
didn't understand sorry
6. How long do I let the ethanol / BHO mixture sit in the freezer for?
I found just 6 or 7 hours were enough to see first coagulates, but if you patient overnight it will be better.
7. What is the scum or residue left behind in the wash in the filter? Was that suff bad and was it in my BHO before I turned it to Amber Glass?
Yes of course, they are the waxy nonsoluble portion of the extract. they are bad if smoked yes.
8. Where does the residue get left at the end? In the filter? Can you see the residue when you put the ethonal solution in the freezer? What does putting the ethonol solution in the freezer do?
q
 
U

Ultra Current

Thanks for the help Gaius and Hamma! Ill post my results when I finish. I got about 10 pounds of dry trim to make this. Thanks again!
 

jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
Waxes also require a higher temperature for efficient extraction,
as I have observed less waxes in the finished product when the material is thoroughly frozen before being penetrated by the solvent, vs. a room temp extraction.
I also observed that second wash in butane brings more waxes compared to first wash.
I think its because of the temperature is raised while first run operations.

i don't think anyone leaves their buds/trim in butane for 30 mins,
although if they do it would have to be in a thermos in the freezer.
else that tane will be evaporating.
I do not recommend putting butane or butane solution in the freezer, it is very dangerous.
Only when butane is in its original can it is safe to put in the refrigerator or the freezer.
Within two hours in a thermos cooled butane is not heated to the boiling point and practically does not evaporate.

picture.php

Extracted in two successive rinses in butane cooled to -20C,
1st rinse for 30 minutes and 2nd for 2 hours. Both were winterized in ethanol.

1st and 2nd together
picture.php

:wave:


This thread is so confusing cause it changes and takes over 5 hours to read.
This thread also can be dangerous to some when they dont understand the full thread and some like myself still dont.

I'm sorry that you find this topic confusing and dangerous.
I tried to explain the whole process with words and pictures to illustrate as fully as possible,
but probably the language barrier makes these efforts ineffective.

I got about 10 pounds of dry trim to make this.
I do not think that such a huge amount of material to be processed by this method,
you will need to use a huge amount of butane that is certainly not safe.

It may be better to take the first screening with dry ice to reduce the amount of material being processed,
and then to chemically extract the resin from the resulting kief.
 

gaiusmarius

me
Veteran
thanks for that clarification about not putting the thermos of butane in the freezer. not that i use this method, but what is the advantage of letting it sit in the butane for longer, rather then spraying it through normally? is it just for the yield?

btw that's the best solution to that huge amount of trim Ultra, use the dry ice shake method first, then make bho from the hash. for making sift into bho it would seem letting the hash powder sit a while in the butane would be preferable to get all the active ingredient. but doing the dry ice shake method will save a ton of butane and also a ton of work and end up with the same result in the end.
 

jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
what is the advantage of letting it sit in the butane for longer, rather then spraying it through normally? is it just for the yield?

I find the advantages of thermos to tube primarily in the common basic values - productivity, product quality, safety and ease of use.

In contrast to the tube, thermos does not require dense pack and can process any, even very small amounts of material.
It also allows to extract the resin from non-dried material, which is not desirable to pack tightly.

The contact time with the solvent is regulated easier.

The material is treated uniformly, whereas in the tube is washed away more material located at the beginning of the tube and closer to the axis.

No pressure there, which makes the process even more extreme than would be desirable.

Loading and unloading is also much easier than tube.
 
This might sound dumb. Can you make Absolute Amber, without butane? Like do a primary extraction with Iso, then a secondary with Ethanol?
 

gaiusmarius

me
Veteran
thanks jump

yeah if i made oil regularly, i'd be trying this for sure. probably using hash powder. but i tend to be satisfied with my bubble hash, so don't end up making bho more then once a year or even less.

so how do you get all the butane out of the material again? kitchen strainer, then cheese cloth press to get the last drops?
 

jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
Simply pour out the butane from the thermos into the funnel with a paper filter,
mounted above the evaporator vessel,
in my case is a spherical glass teapot.

picture.php


picture.php
 

jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
Can you make Absolute Amber, without butane? Like do a primary extraction with Iso, then a secondary with Ethanol?

To obtain the absolute primal solvent should be non-polar, like butane, hexane, naphta ..
Iso as like as EtOH is polar, it can be mixed with water.
 

Gray Wolf

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To obtain the absolute primal solvent should be non-polar, like butane, hexane, naphta ..
Iso as like as EtOH is polar, it can be mixed with water.

What Jump said, but you can clean ISO up with EtOH some, because ISO is more agressive than EtOH. When you try to redissolve it, everything won't dissolve and when you subzero it, more will fall out of solution.

It will make a cleaner extract, but not as clean as if you started with a non polar solvent.
 
Isn't butane polar, just like ethanol?

Solvent Chemical formula Boiling point[7] Dielectric constant[8] Density Dipole moment
Non-polar solvents
Pentane CH3-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH3 36 °C 1.84 0.626 g/ml 0.00 D
Cyclopentane C5H10 40 °C 1.97 0.751 g/ml 0.00 D
Hexane CH3-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH3 69 °C 1.88 0.655 g/ml 0.00 D
Cyclohexane C6H12 81 °C 2.02 0.779 g/ml 0.00 D
Benzene C6H6 80 °C 2.3 0.879 g/ml 0.00 D
Toluene C6H5-CH3 111 °C 2.38 0.867 g/ml 0.36 D
1,4-Dioxane /-CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-O-\ 101 °C 2.3 1.033 g/ml 0.45 D
Chloroform CHCl3 61 °C 4.81 1.498 g/ml 1.04 D
Diethyl ether CH3CH2-O-CH2-CH3 35 °C 4.3 0.713 g/ml 1.15 D
Polar aprotic solvents
Dichloromethane (DCM) CH2Cl2 40 °C 9.1 1.3266 g/ml 1.60 D
Tetrahydrofuran (THF) /-CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-\ 66 °C 7.5 0.886 g/ml 1.75 D
Ethyl acetate CH3-C(=O)-O-CH2-CH3 77 °C 6.02 0.894 g/ml 1.78 D
Acetone CH3-C(=O)-CH3 56 °C 21 0.786 g/ml 2.88 D
Dimethylformamide (DMF) H-C(=O)N(CH3)2 153 °C 38 0.944 g/ml 3.82 D
Acetonitrile (MeCN) CH3-C≡N 82 °C 37.5 0.786 g/ml 3.92 D
Dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) CH3-S(=O)-CH3 189 °C 46.7 1.092 g/ml 3.96 D
Polar protic solvents
Formic acid H-C(=O)OH 101 °C 58 1.21 g/ml 1.41 D
n-Butanol CH3-CH2-CH2-CH2-OH 118 °C 18 0.810 g/ml 1.63 D
Isopropanol (IPA) CH3-CH(-OH)-CH3 82 °C 18 0.785 g/ml 1.66 D
n-Propanol CH3-CH2-CH2-OH 97 °C 20 0.803 g/ml 1.68 D
Ethanol CH3-CH2-OH 79 °C 24.55 0.789 g/ml 1.69 D
Methanol CH3-OH 65 °C 33 0.791 g/ml 1.70 D
Acetic acid CH3-C(=O)OH 118 °C 6.2 1.049 g/ml 1.74 D
Water H-O-H 100 °C 80 1.000 g/ml 1.85 D
 
Please correct me if I'm wrong - I'm a bit slow.

Absolutes, at their most basic start with a non-polar solvent, and re-extracted with a polar solvent.

Am I missing something?
 

ougro12

New member
Thanks jump117

Thanks jump117

jump117,
I appreciate you sharing your knowledge on this forum. Your knowledge and understanding of extracting bho, absolute amber, solvents, decarboxylation and safe practices are unrivaled on the web.
I was hesitant to go from the tube to the soak, I can now say with confidence that I will not be using the tube again. I also like the fact that you can decarboxylate the filter cake prior to the second soak. I use a carafe to soak my herb and it works great. I love the amber and making extracts for sublingual use is the bomb!
One word of advice, if you are unsure of these methods and feel they are unsafe then they likely are. If you don't have confidence in the method, this is not for you.
 
I have a question for all the chemists on here. What factors enable oil to be viscous and sticky at room temperature (as opposed to solid)?

I ask this, because previously I had thought the viscous oil was due to remaining solvent. However, about a month ago I made an alcohol tincture with a decent amount of low grade bubble hash. This resulted in a very gross tasting tincture, so a few days I evaporated out the ethanol and scraped the resulting oil.

Having achieved shatter using both the double extraction method (as popularized by jump), as well as a butane-only extraction, I expected this batch to be solid at room temp. Not quite; the resulting oil was very sticky (although completely clear), despite a couple hour purge at around 200F.

The oils below were purchased, but they give a good visual reference to the one I made, since I didn't take pictures. My oil resembled the one on the left, but was even darker.

Oil%2520Lineup.jpg


So to recap, how would you replicate the oils above? Assuming of course, that the viscosity of my oil wasn't caused by the month-long ethanol soak or the excessive purge.
 
I think that the two hour 200 degree purge might have decarboxylated the oil. Not much wiggle room at that temp.

attachment.php
 

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Gray Wolf

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I have a question for all the chemists on here. What factors enable oil to be viscous and sticky at room temperature (as opposed to solid)?

.



Solly, not a chemist, but bud oil is typically stiffer than trim oil, and undecarboxylated oil is stiffer than decarboxylated oil. Some strains are also stiffer than others.
 
I think that the two hour 200 degree purge might have decarboxylated the oil. Not much wiggle room at that temp.

attachment.php

Sounds about right. I forgot to mention I purged in a toaster oven, which very likely controls temperature via voltage regulation. Meaning it's quite inconsistent and temp could have very likely reached 250 at times.

Also, about that graph, I'm puzzled how thc content can increase by a factor of 5 with just simple heating.
 

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