a wicked pulse

[disciple]

 

[johnnyrotten]

Thanks disciple,

The non-container issues are pretty good... I've been working those out before I start growing in the tent...

I will be using a secret jardin dl120 tent...

Im not in a huge hurry to start, I'd rather have everything done right and I can't start for a month anyway...

What worries me the most is getting the bucket construction correct and how to setup the main res setup...

What I like most about the ppk's are that they don't require daily watering since I'm only going to have enough time to work on my garden 3 days a week...

 

[village green]

"Hope to improve my scores on my next psych eval so want to go with less than 10 plants instead of the 60 in that setup."

hey, vg, did i miss something here?

I doubt you miss much. I can see it now..classifying medical strains according to Rorschach responses.


I figure you,Disciple or IF have researched a fair bit about maximizing yield within many variables. My best vert yield came from a cross of two Reeferman strain which was a stretch monster. Its parents were Skunkberry and Santa Marta Colombian Gold. I liked it. The ladies loved it. However, my buddies are all about the sledgehammer to the head indicas. Dr. Greenthumb said a stretching plant suitable for vert scrog is hard to find with an indica body type high. For example, he doesn't feel G-13 is a good candidate although it is held to be his biggest yielder.

I've not found examples of vert scrog that match what is obtained from flat scrogs with low numbers and wattage. I am doing 8 total in PPK with 4 in veg and 4 in flower. I'm air layering bigger clones off veg plants and giving them 8 to 10 weeks veg. Heath did a flat scrog flip-flop under a 600 with 10 plants under each adjust-a-wing to speed up the screen coverage. Would you guys still go vert with my numbers and 2 or 3K in flowering? I hate hot hoods and dusty glass.

The Doc recommends C-99 for a vert scrog and it looks like his ECSD would jungle it on up too..but I don't know if they make carbon filters big enough LOL

 

[Sqydro]

so no matter what temps it gets in both buckets the roots and plants are unnafected and u just top off bottom bucket with water and nutes and ph when its running low??

thanks for tutorial makes it alot simpler for me to understand now, il try one before i go full hog lol

 

[delta9nxs]

i've just come from the room this morning and can report the following conditions.

at the time i took the reading the co2 level was at 715 ppm.

the tds was 860 ppm.

ph 5.8

reservoir temp 83f

medium temp in middle of root zone 83f.

plants at about 1000-1100 umols of light

air temp 84-86f

rh 55%

apparently cannabis plants like a little extra co2.

i have adjusted the co2 set point to 550 ppm with a 25 ppm dead band. turned down water flow until i got hot but not too hot water. and slowed the burn rate.

when it fires it runs less than 60 seconds, shuts off, and the level will come up to about 900 before it stops climbing. i think this is more in line with the stage of growth.

typically i would run nutrient ppm, in my perpetual set up, with plants at every stage of life, at 600 ppm input for everything all the time. i did notice that the veg system tds went down and the flower system went up. but then stabilized.

now with all plants at the same stage i'm feeding the veg stage at around 1000 ppm or ec 2.

my tap water is about 100 ppm and very good so i'm using it here. but contrary to conventional wisdom i'm ignoring it while mixing and using the 900 ppm jack's/calcinit formula. this consist of 540 ppm jack's hydroponic special 5-12-26 and 360 ppm calcium nitrate. this produces a ratio of 1/.66 jack's to calcinit. thrown on top of the base water bringing me to around ec 2.

remember, boys and girls, 666 is your magic number!

5.8 ph is achieved without ph adjusters. if you mix at 666 you don't need a meter with ro water or good tap water.

mix @ 666, mix @ 666, mix @ 666.

 

[delta9nxs]

so no matter what temps it gets in both buckets the roots and plants are unnafected and u just top off bottom bucket with water and nutes and ph when its running low??

thanks for tutorial makes it alot simpler for me to understand now, il try one before i go full hog lol

pretty much. top water through the medium as often as you can just enough to produce a slight overflow from the hole. you don't need a lot of run off if you keep the feed around 600 ppm. this is very slight drain to waste. if you hand water straight turface works well.

pics help me a lot, too.

d9

 

[delta9nxs]

I doubt you miss much. I can see it now..classifying medical strains according to Rorschach responses.


I figure you,Disciple or IF have researched a fair bit about maximizing yield within many variables. My best vert yield came from a cross of two Reeferman strain which was a stretch monster. Its parents were Skunkberry and Santa Marta Colombian Gold. I liked it. The ladies loved it. However, my buddies are all about the sledgehammer to the head indicas. Dr. Greenthumb said a stretching plant suitable for vert scrog is hard to find with an indica body type high. For example, he doesn't feel G-13 is a good candidate although it is held to be his biggest yielder.

I've not found examples of vert scrog that match what is obtained from flat scrogs with low numbers and wattage. I am doing 8 total in PPK with 4 in veg and 4 in flower. I'm air layering bigger clones off veg plants and giving them 8 to 10 weeks veg. Heath did a flat scrog flip-flop under a 600 with 10 plants under each adjust-a-wing to speed up the screen coverage. Would you guys still go vert with my numbers and 2 or 3K in flowering? I hate hot hoods and dusty glass.

The Doc recommends C-99 for a vert scrog and it looks like his ECSD would jungle it on up too..but I don't know if they make carbon filters big enough LOL

this is only the third scrog type grow i have tried so i'm not qualified to answer that.

i'm picking clone donors for the next run now. the only c99 i have looks real nice. the sour 13, which is ecsd x g13, is shaping well, but the other strains have plants that are displaying the characteristics i want too.

i'll try to get some more pics later.

 

[village green]

mix @ 666, mix @ 666, mix @ 666.[/quote]


So all that talk about Devil Weed was true after all.

 

[delta9nxs]

mix @ 666, mix @ 666, mix @ 666.

So all that talk about Devil Weed was true after all.[/QUOTE]

why, no, it's not Devil Weed, it's Satan's Succotash!

 

[delta9nxs]

at one week from transplant.

c-99, good dog, dope, and chemdawg g13.

i'm trying to upload more pics but i'm on some kind of quota so i'll have to go back and delete something.

i have spent the week messing with equipment getting it all balanced.

i have been having trouble keeping rh above 40-42%, which is way too low for these kinds of light, temperature, and co2 levels.

so today i built a return line from an ac back to a bucket in the room with microfiber towels hanging out of it.

i'm running 58% right now. much better. also, in response to low rh i increased the duration to 45 seconds and reduced the interval to 1 hour. keeping a wetter root zone helps keep the stomata open in the face of low rh.

 

[delta9nxs]

sour 13, bubba og, and another dope

 

[village green]

Thanks for the pictures....what is the stretch like on the Sour 13?
You topped all of these didn't you?

 

[delta9nxs]

Thanks for the pictures....what is the stretch like on the Sour 13?
You topped all of these didn't you?

not too bad. growing them tree style and not defoliating before stretch they would go about a ft more during stretch.

the g13, iranian 13, and the chem 13 stretched less by a little.

these were all topped early as i knew they would be going to the screens. i did quite a bit of shaping to get these like this.

 

[delta9nxs]

here we have some strangeness. the two plants close ups are of a "dope". the first shot shows the "nanners". the second is another branch on the same plant without them. only two branches are affected. this is from a feminized seed held 9.5 weeks under 24/7 flo's and then 5 days 24/7 in the big room. they have been on 18/6 since. this plant has never seen more than six hours of dark at a time.

my first reaction was to immediately yank it, but this could be stress related as i was messing with all the equipment and got some large swings in temps, co2, and rh this first week. i think i'll whack the two branches off and watch the plant closely to see if any more develop.

i seem to have an infestation of big fuzzy white worms.

i have roots at the bottom of all containers in 9 days from transplant. the last photo is a repeat showing the way the root balls were handled.

#4 shows the working distance at 11-1200 umols. not quite ready for prime time.

 

[high life 45]

i seem to have an infestation of big fuzzy white worms.

Hey bro I have those same things!!! Dont worry though they are beneficial worms, so its not really an infestation.

I did a side by side years ago and the plants with more fuzzy white worms def. yielded more.

It was almost as if there was a direct correlation between the fuzzy worms and yield....

Anyway don't worry about the worms.

 

[disciple]

 

[delta9nxs]

if you didn't drill holes in your side walls and submerge your plumbers tailpiece i bet you wouldn't have caught worms.

see, not only are drilling sidewall holes a waste of effort, they cause infestations of pests.

peace.

*forgot to add that your 3.5 gal container is too small.... the turface-eating worms flourish to create more room for your roots. You can't really yield in such a small container. everybody knows that if you want big yields you have to have a massive container, not just in soil or peat based grows... but in ANY type of culture.

thanks for pointing this out to me, i guess the holes explain the worms. i mean, i didn't see worms before the holes so the holes must have caused them. i'm just a slow learner.

 

[disciple]

 

[village green]

Lair of the white worm

Lair of the white worm

thanks for pointing this out to me, i guess the holes explain the worms. i mean, i didn't see worms before the holes so the holes must have caused them. i'm just a slow learner.

These white worms are troubling. Maybe you should post some pictures in the Cannabis Infirmary. Pretty sure they'll tell you these are pre-larvae for root aphids. Up til now these were thought to be a West Coast phenomenon. It's my understanding that a lot of guys are having great success with a natural approach. They are mixing in equal volume of earthworms. Have you tried compost in a PPK? Would the Jack's kill the beneficials or would it be best to utilize roadkill for its nitrogen profile?

 

[delta9nxs]

These white worms are troubling. Maybe you should post some pictures in the Cannabis Infirmary. Pretty sure they'll tell you these are pre-larvae for root aphids. Up til now these were thought to be a West Coast phenomenon. It's my understanding that a lot of guys are having great success with a natural approach. They are mixing in equal volume of earthworms. Have you tried compost in a PPK? Would the Jack's kill the beneficials or would it be best to utilize roadkill for its nitrogen profile?

this is the most chemically stable hydro system i have ever operated. it's almost eerie! most of what i have read in the past about hydro says this is impossible.

in view of this remarkable stability, i have wondered why some of the organic hydro heads have not built one and fed it critter crap soup.

jack's doesn't kill algae so the bene's are probably safe. the biggest problem using any balanced fert with composted materials is the danger of creating elemental stimulation's or antagonism's. jack's mixed at 666 is approx 3-1-4. anything you might add will change that ratio.